CoupeDTS Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 I have a 2000 deville dts 80k. Last year my freon was low so i added two cans to get the air cold and came to the conclusion the system must be leaking so i threw in some stop leak. This year once again I had no cold air so I added two cans of freon but my compressor wouldnt even turn on this year, so it wouldnt fully take the cans. I thought thats weird it must be super low cuz its not doin the hot on drivers side cold on passenger. I checked all fuses and relays all good. Reset codes still nothing. So I check the forumns and read that you should never use stop leak. That helps. So I check my codes and it says overpressurized P1540. So I figured it might be since I added so much freon so I let some out. Compressor still wouldnt kick on even after resetting codes constantly. Sounds like the comp would kick on for a second but then shut off and throw the same code. The a/c fans are working btw. So I let out more and more freon (plus some oil comes out) till it quit comin out, then added a can. Still nothing. So I read more on here about how the stop leak mightve plugged stuff up like the condenser. So I took the condenser out and shot air through, it goes good. Shot air through the other hoses. Some forumns said when a catastrophic release of freon to add 1 to 2 ounces of oil when refilling and charging. So I got the right oil. Put everything back together. Tried to charge the oil into it and then maybe try some freon but the comp still does the same crap wont come on and throws the same code. What is goin on? Theres no way I can afford a grand to take it somewhere so im tryin to do this myself, might as well try its cheaper. What am I forgetting to do here? This just doesnt work as easy as the message boards say..... Please help * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 To me, the proper way to charge an AC is to evacuate and recharge, with an oil charge. NEVER use stop leak. P1540 - Air Conditioning (A/C) Refrigerant Overpressure - Air Conditioning (A/C) Disabled Take it to a shop, have them evacuate it, and recharge it. Did you let the FREON out or reclaim it? Do you know how expensive of a mistake that was, if you just let it out? If you took your car to an AC shop, they would reclaim it, and put it back in and charged you ONLY for the time not for the FREON. Now you let it out into the atmosphere, you need a FULL recharge, it will be more expensive. Hopefully, you didnt just let the FREON out, Well look at it this way, now that you have the condenser out, its no longer over pressured. You probably over pressured the system putting the cans in.. To me, the can is ONLY a temporary stop gap not a solution, and I would add only one can. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 I realize I screwed up countless times here Im just trying to get this thing workin. Didnt I basically evacuate it by releasing the air inside and recharge it by adding freon? Same as what they would do right? Still the compressor wont turn on. Theres no air in the high or low side and yet it says overpressurized... * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 I realize I screwed up countless times here Im just trying to get this thing workin. Didnt I basically evacuate it by releasing the air inside and recharge it by adding freon? Same as what they would do right? Still the compressor wont turn on. Theres no air in the high or low side and yet it says overpressurized... No, to evacuate an auto AC system, a strong vacuum pump is attached to the system, and a vacuum is drawn for about 30 minutes, that gets the air and more importantly the moisture out of the system and allows the freon to get sucked in. You need to have it done by an AC shop now, you need to get the air out, unless you have the proper equipment. It should only cost about $250 to have it evacuated and recharged. If you have disconnected the battery, and still have that code, you probably have a bad sensor that is shorted, from too much pressure and moisture, that will need to be replaced. Is the code current or history? As long as that code is current the AC compressor wont start, but DONT try to start it dry and you won't be able to do this with the cans Don't leave the AC system open, you will deplete/damage the dryer/accumulator. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 Since you opened up the system by taking the condenser out, you will need to replace the o-rings at the condenser connections upon reassembly or you will have a leak. Lube the o-rings with clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil or Nylog. Do not use PAG-150 oil to lube o-rings as it attracts moisture which can corrode the joints. Since you now need to take the car to a shop to have the system evacuated and charged, why not have them find and repair the leak? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 yep sounds good. I sealed the system back up after about 20 mins of having it apart but will have to do those o rings sometime. I read about nylog but I cant find it at stores around here only ebay and one forumn said only use that on orings not the washer type o rings, which are on the condenser. I found a friend that knows what hes doin that has an evacuator so I can get all that done. Im just worried about this sensor now though. Is it near the compressor? i wouldnt mind changing it anyway if thats what you guys think is wrong with the compressor not kicking on. Only other thing i can think of is maybe something is clogged right by the compressor and when it kicks on it gets to high pressure right away and throws the code... probably not huh.. As for the leak, last winter i was under the car changing the oil, checking for any leaks of anything and I found some red oil like stuff coming from some wire bundles behind the drivers side radiator kind of half way up, not the condenser side of the radiator. I couldnt see good enough to see where it was dripping onto those wires from. Definately oil not coolant. I figured it couldnt be tranny fluid over there and I know that stop leak crap i put in was red so maybe it was that stuff? Whats over that way that could be leaking? * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 Whenever my friend thinks something is cool or good, he says, "It's the CATS azz"! Anyone ever hear of that expression? I don't know, but think that's a good thing! NYLOG, is the CATs azz! Kevin turned me on to it. I use it for everything now, I bought NYLOG and my o-rings from this place: AC Source - auto AC Parts, supplies, etc Do a search under manufacturer and YOUR year they have a lot of stuff for our cars You gotta love this, they have custom sets for our cars, here is the full o-ring kit for your car ($8.21): 2000 Cadillac O-Ring Set Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 Kevin, could the stop leak have clogged the orifice tube?, and create the high pressure? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 im just not sure it can create pressure that fast, it literally turns the compressor on for 2 seconds and then shuts it off. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 im just not sure it can create pressure that fast, it literally turns the compressor on for 2 seconds and then shuts it off. Sealer is pretty bad for your AC system, its not your fault, they sell the *smurf*, who knew, they also sell injector cleaner..also not good... Sealers are suppose to be orfice tube safe, but lets say that your orifice tube was dirty from wear, adding the sealer could have caused a big spike in your pressure, and gummed up your pressure sensor locking it SHORTED or ON... If the HIGH PRESSURE sensor is SHORTED ON, the PCM immediately senses the HIGH PRESSURE (falsely) and shuts down the system. You probably need to FLUSH your system, replace your orfice tube, maybe your accumulator to be safe. Kevin? See these articles on sealer, I was unaware of how bad it is, think of this, when an AC shop recaptures the 134A from a car with sealant, it can clog his machine.. never thought of that Part 1, I love this article on Sealants http://www.imcool.com/articles/airconditio...sealants_p1.php Part 2, http://www.imcool.com/articles/airconditio...sealants_p2.php Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jking220 Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 Links wont work? Jonah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 17, 2008 Report Share Posted July 17, 2008 Links wont work? If the links don't work go to, here is the main AUTOMOTIVE page, find the sealant articles there, those links above were taking a long time for me to connect to, maybe they have disabled linking to save bandwidth. http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/index.html Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 VERY interesting articles Mike. Sure makes one stop and think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 Thanks Larry Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 What type of "stop leak" was added to the system? If it was that goo that cures in the presence of air, the system could be in big trouble. If it was that crap from Walmart that "Conditions" o-rings (which is not necessary...) there is less of a chance in major trouble. The garbage that the chain stores sell as "O-ring conditioner stop leak" has a chemical that causes o-rings to swell. Bad idea - if a connection o-ring is leaking bad enough to discharge the system, no amount of that snake oil is going to cause it to seal. While the system is discharged, it would be a good idea to pull the orifice tube and inspect it. If you find a few metal particles, that is normal but if the o-tube is clogged with teflon particles, that's another story. Be sure to replace it with the long end pointed toward the condenser or you will destroy the low side thermistor. Pay close attention when you disassemble it. Orifice tubes are less than $5 so just replace it. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 What does it mean if i have my air on and the compressor goes on and off? i hear it click and cut on sometimes and then it goes off... then comes back on after a min or two. I get cold air(not very cold though) from the passengers side and rear, but the drives side stays warm. Some of you have said i was low on freon. So i purchased some freon and tried to recharge the system, i read the can it said that if the compressor wasnt on then add a little of freon and if it still doesnt come on and stay on then there is another problem. can anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 What does it mean if i have my air on and the compressor goes on and off? i hear it click and cut on sometimes and then it goes off... then comes back on after a min or two. I get cold air(not very cold though) from the passengers side and rear, but the drives side stays warm. Some of you have said i was low on freon. So i purchased some freon and tried to recharge the system, i read the can it said that if the compressor wasnt on then add a little of freon and if it still doesnt come on and stay on then there is another problem. can anyone help? It is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off. The symptom of warm driver's air and cool passenger air is a classic case of low refrigerant on a dual zone system. It probably won't take any refrigerant unless the compressor is running. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 What does it mean if i have my air on and the compressor goes on and off? i hear it click and cut on sometimes and then it goes off... then comes back on after a min or two. I get cold air(not very cold though) from the passengers side and rear, but the drives side stays warm. Some of you have said i was low on freon. So i purchased some freon and tried to recharge the system, i read the can it said that if the compressor wasnt on then add a little of freon and if it still doesnt come on and stay on then there is another problem. can anyone help? It is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off. The symptom of warm driver's air and cool passenger air is a classic case of low refrigerant on a dual zone system. It probably won't take any refrigerant unless the compressor is running. so how can I get the compressor to stay on? I did notice like you said that the system would not accept the freon until the compressor cut on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 Whenever my friend thinks something is cool or good, he says, "It's the CATS azz"! Anyone ever hear of that expression? I don't know, but think that's a good thing! NYLOG, is the CATs azz! Kevin turned me on to it. I use it for everything now, I bought NYLOG and my o-rings from this place: AC Source - auto AC Parts, supplies, etc Do a search under manufacturer and YOUR year they have a lot of stuff for our cars You gotta love this, they have custom sets for our cars, here is the full o-ring kit for your car ($8.21): 2000 Cadillac O-Ring Set I saw Nylog at a local refrigeration supply house recently so it is available locally. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 What does it mean if i have my air on and the compressor goes on and off? i hear it click and cut on sometimes and then it goes off... then comes back on after a min or two. I get cold air(not very cold though) from the passengers side and rear, but the drives side stays warm. Some of you have said i was low on freon. So i purchased some freon and tried to recharge the system, i read the can it said that if the compressor wasnt on then add a little of freon and if it still doesnt come on and stay on then there is another problem. can anyone help? It is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off. The symptom of warm driver's air and cool passenger air is a classic case of low refrigerant on a dual zone system. It probably won't take any refrigerant unless the compressor is running. so how can I get the compressor to stay on? I did notice like you said that the system would not accept the freon until the compressor cut on. If the compressor is cycling, it should pull in the refrigerant. If the low refrigerant code is set, you need to clear it first. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 What does it mean if i have my air on and the compressor goes on and off? i hear it click and cut on sometimes and then it goes off... then comes back on after a min or two. I get cold air(not very cold though) from the passengers side and rear, but the drives side stays warm. Some of you have said i was low on freon. So i purchased some freon and tried to recharge the system, i read the can it said that if the compressor wasnt on then add a little of freon and if it still doesnt come on and stay on then there is another problem. can anyone help? It is normal for the compressor to cycle on and off. The symptom of warm driver's air and cool passenger air is a classic case of low refrigerant on a dual zone system. It probably won't take any refrigerant unless the compressor is running. so how can I get the compressor to stay on? I did notice like you said that the system would not accept the freon until the compressor cut on. If the compressor is cycling, it should pull in the refrigerant. If the low refrigerant code is set, you need to clear it first. i dont get a low refr. code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 Dana, If the compressor is cycling, it will pull in the refrigerant. Since yours won't, the only thing I can think of is that you have not pierced the can with the can tap. Are you sure you threaded in the valve on the can tap far enough to puncture the can? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaghost87 Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 Dana, If the compressor is cycling, it will pull in the refrigerant. Since yours won't, the only thing I can think of is that you have not pierced the can with the can tap. Are you sure you threaded in the valve on the can tap far enough to puncture the can? It does pull the freon, but like you said it only does it when the compressor kicks on.. which is like every min or two.. do i have to leave the can on there and just wait for it to keep cycling? i thought the compressor was supposed to stay on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Dana, If the compressor is cycling, it will pull in the refrigerant. Since yours won't, the only thing I can think of is that you have not pierced the can with the can tap. Are you sure you threaded in the valve on the can tap far enough to puncture the can? It does pull the freon, but like you said it only does it when the compressor kicks on.. which is like every min or two.. do i have to leave the can on there and just wait for it to keep cycling? i thought the compressor was supposed to stay on Leave the can connected until the system sucks it in and the can is empty. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Dana, If the compressor is cycling, it will pull in the refrigerant. Since yours won't, the only thing I can think of is that you have not pierced the can with the can tap. Are you sure you threaded in the valve on the can tap far enough to puncture the can? It does pull the freon, but like you said it only does it when the compressor kicks on.. which is like every min or two.. do i have to leave the can on there and just wait for it to keep cycling? i thought the compressor was supposed to stay on Leave the can connected until the system sucks it in and the can is empty. Hey here is a question for you Kevin. What is the story with holding the can UPRIGHT (vapor?) vs holding it upside down (fluid?). I recall that being an issue years ago is it still, or doesn't it even matter? Thanks Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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