OynxSTS Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 My 2002 STS has been making a odd thumping/grinding noise for a few months now and it is getting worse... It makes the noise on the right side of the car while turning right (the side of the car with LESS load) at slow speeds. At first I thought I was just confused as to where the noise was coming from and I replaced the Driver Wheel bearing... The old rule of thumb if it makes noise turning right replace the left bearing. Nope not it... It makes the noise with the tranny in Drive and Neutral... I haven't had a chance to pull the ABS/Stabilitrac fuse but that is my next suspicion... No codes BTW. When that side of the car is under load, i.e. Turing left, it is fine, as it is going straight. And fast right turns, like on ramps, and such, are fine too... Slow speed right turns make a Brrrt Brrrt noise from the passenger foot well. Any thoughts? CV joint? Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wotmode Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 How slow is "slow speeds"? Does it do at 30 mph lane change maneuver? Or Making a right onto a city street? with a yield sign? Or at 2mph trying to fit into a parking spot? How sharp are you turning. I have seen hubs make noise only when unloaded before. Is it a rotational noise, if so how many "brrts" per wheel revolution? If your cv boots are OK, so are your cv joints. It is possible, but I've never seen a bad joint without the boot being torn. Also, cv joint make click noise. If the noise happens while you rotate the steering wheel, it could be a strut plate bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Thanks for the reply Into a parking spot no not so much Lane change Nope nothing sweeping rights like on ramps at 30,40,50mph... silent Turning on to a side street, or a drive way from a stop Yup Really bad Turning right at a green light at about 10-15mph yup It is definitely rotational with the tire not the steering wheel though it does seem to happen at specific angles... The tighter the steering angle the worse it is. mostly doing "sharp" 90 degree turns mostly at speeds between 5 and 15mph. I have the "old" drivers side bearing that I replaced (the one that was fine) I could, for free stick that on the passenger side and see if the noise gets better or worse. CV boots are like brand new. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Hey Greg how have you been, I have been wanting to send you an email. Listen, this sounds like a bad axle either a worn inner or outer joint popping. You noted that the CV boots were new, why? Were they ever compromised at any point and the grease come out? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Life's been good, car's been great. Kids are well and growing, and the wife tests for her TKD black belt in 2 weeks (there I go hijacking my own thread ) Back to my problem... Regarding my post on the boots, Wotmode suggested that the CV joints don't fail unless the boots go first... My CV joints (and boots) are original, have never leaked and have never been worked on. They "look" ok... Both front bearings were replace under warranty about 30,000 miles ago... (and the driver one is even newer replaced by me 5,000 miles ago ) so I doubt they are bad. It is a definite rapid click click click pop pop pop noise. If this help... the noise is different depending on how "warmed up" the car is in the morning when the car is cold its not that bad.. It seems to get worse as the car warms up... But that might be me imagining things. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 OH...I read this wrong, CV boots are like brand new I read, the CV boots are brand new...sorry. I agree with wotmode and that is why I inquired about the "new boots"..... Is is possible that you had a small crack in your inner boot and the grease came out a long time ago under centrifical pressure? Its not likely you would notice if it leaked slowly. If that happened your cv joint would die a slow death. Check your engine/tranny mounts also Do you have any driveablity issues at all? Poor returnability, vibration, wandering, odd tire wear? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Nope no issues car is fine otherwise... A slight pull to the right on the steering... But so slight that Its not worth even having an alignment done. No issues on tire wear, no vibrations, no wandering, Motor mount was replaced 2 years ago when I blew up the tranny. I drive the car much less hard since the tranny went south. If it is the CV joint a definative test would be nice... a new one costs over $400... Ouch! Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 I don't know where you are getting that price from, rockauto has axles for $55, and its pretty easy to replace, you just need to break the ball joint, remove the axle nut and pop the axle with a pry bar. CARDONE SELECT Part # 661327 Front Left Front Right $51.79 $0.00 $51.79 A-1 CARDONE Part # 601327 {Reman CV Half-Shaft Assembly / Overall Length=22 1/8" Outboard Splines=33 Inboard Splines=41 Inboard Joint Type=Female} Front Left Front Right $55.79 $50.00 $105.79 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 New GM axel assembly from Parts direct is significanly more...$411.06 plus shipping... I'm not a big fan of aftermarket parts... but it might worth the fact that the aftermarket parts are 1/10 the price Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 STUPID QUESTION time...... Why are they called CV (constant velocity) shafts, when they speed up and slow down, depending on vehicle speed? Thats not a constant velocity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Never mind....... been reading up on CV joints..... I found that it refers to the ANGULAR VELOCITY, not rotational velocity. Which was pretty obvious ... once I started reading about them.... Funny thing.... all these years.... never thought to ask that question. Today is a GOOD DAY.... I learned something new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 New GM axel assembly from Parts direct is significanly more...$411.06 plus shipping... I'm not a big fan of aftermarket parts... but it might worth the fact that the aftermarket parts are 1/10 the price Got ya, I understand and yes, that is a big difference in price. Too much to ignore and I would want to know why and research if there is a HIGH QUALITY rebuilt unit that I could buy like an AC DELCO rebuild. The reason I am thinking axle is because of what you said, "It is definitely rotational with the tire not the steering wheel though it does seem to happen at specific angles" in addition you yourself are thinking hub bearings, so in your mind you are thinking rotational also.. Take another very close look at your inner and outer boots, look for the signs of grease thrown up and around, look for a line of grease/dirt. But take a look at your strut mounts at the top of your springs and take the dust cover off under the hood and have a look. If this happens standing still, try having someone you trust, SLOWLY turn and watch and listen to the top of the spring to see if it is popping or rough, if you can phycially attach to it with your hand safely try holding the spring while the wheel is moved back and forth, to see if you feel anything odd from the mount., I have seen them skip and make noise. I am in the same boat right now, I need a rear knuckle assembly and it KILLS me to have to spend close to $400 to replace it, what a rip for such a small improvement in driveability, but I need it.. Lets face the facts, I can find a LOT of things that I would like to spend $400 on So, I cruise the junk yards looking for a good one.. Did not mean to hijack this thread. What do you think about a high quality remanufactured unit? http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/HalfShaftsRebuilt...ADiscussion.htm Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 GM has a TSB on the cradle mounts for popping sounds in the floor board area: "The #2 lower body cradle mount may be moving within the cradle mounting hole on either side of the car. This may exhibit a pop noise in the footwell area during hard acceleration, braking or turning maneuvers. This noise may also occur while driving on rough roads." #2 is the middle mount. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 Do you have a TSB number? never mind... got it Popping Noise in the Footwell Area - fit frame front intermittent jounce loud poor rebound suspension #PI00112A - (May 13, 2003) Popping Noise in the Footwell Area - fit frame front intermittent jounce loud poor rebound suspension . When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms. Condition/Concern: The #2 lower body cradle mount may be moving within the cradle mounting hole on either side of the car. May exhibit a pop noise in the footwell area during hard acceleration, braking or turning maneuvers. This noise may also occur while driving on rough roads. Recommendation/Instructions: Remove the lower portion of the #2 cradle mount (the second mount from the front of the car under the longitudinal body rail which is closest to the stabilizer bar) and apply epoxy material around the perimeter of the mount and reinstall it. Make sure the mount is clean and free of rubber flashing in the area in which the adhesive will be applied. The mount must be reinstalled prior to the epoxy setting up (usually around 15 minutes). Perform this operation on both the left and right side mounts and allow the vehicle to sit for 2 hours after re-installation. Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 I gotta fix this with GLUE! They can't be serious... Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 At least they didn't say Bazooka Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 I haven't seen any Bazooka in a looonng time. ('course I haven't looked.) BUT I WILL. Do they still have the Bazooka Joe comics with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 Glue...no..epoxy... We agree. Not the real fix. But thats the GM TSB. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 I haven't seen any Bazooka in a looonng time. ('course I haven't looked.) BUT I WILL. Do they still have the Bazooka Joe comics with them? Yep, it appears he has been updated http://www.topps.com/Confectionery/Bazooka/ Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Glue...no..epoxy... We agree. Not the real fix. But thats the GM TSB. Well I slathered up the cradle mounts as per the TSB... used really nasty Marine grade epoxy Still makes the noice Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bc6t Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Greg (a bit of humor and reality), As a last resort, you can always do what I do: If it's just noise without any apparent drive-ability (or safety) issues, then simply increase the stereo volume in increments of 1 "bar" until noise disappears. I know that this is not a solution, but until the symptoms become pronounced enough to diagnose and you are pretty confident that you are not incurring any collateral damage then "fido". My '98's suspension creaks quite a bit from every standing start - but I have resolved it (for now) by playing more ZZ Top louder! When I find some time I will replace the sway bar end links and bushings and spray every moving part with lithium grease or the like. On 2 my my previous 30 or so cars I have owned, I have experience a very similar sound under similar conditions. Both times it was the CV Joint on the passenger side and it was ultimately caused by leaking or totally gone grease from the CV boot. Technology has changed a lot since those 2 cars back in the '80s (e.g. no more manual lubricating of suspension parts, etc. - just try to find a fitting to attach a grease gun into nowadays...), but it sure sounds like it's the same cause... Until absolutely necessary to repair, I will continue driving it like I stole it.... Tom R. 1998 Cadillac STS with 102K Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 That funny Tom, every time it creaks I think to myself... If this was Tom's car he would just turn up the radio... If the weather stays nice I'll be driving the 442 for a while... I've almost finished the 350HP Rocket motor for it... I think I'll spend the 80-100 for a reman Axel assembly... Our fleet manager says that he has had good luck with the NAPA ones... and as Scotty posted they are easy to swap... Two hours... Tops I had to look up "Fido" F' it, drive on... cute If it is a CV I imagine it it were to just fall apart there would be all kinds of carnage with the output shaft just "flinging" around at 200-1000 RPM. The boots look fine... they are dry and there is no evidence of any grease anywhere... weird. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 Ahh that brings back memories, I know the Olds 350 very well..nice... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catmendo Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 just a stupid thought here and one of the last times, i posted one on the caddyinfo board my bones got jumped ... can you put it on a lift, with someone inside the car, to engage it in gear and give it gas while turning the steering wheel slowly back and forth while you listen for the problem area ??? i prefer, very carefully, using a piece of PVC pipe as a stethoscope ... and if it did not, make the noise then it might point to the suspension problem ... and if it does make the noise then you can probably localize the area as to the problem ... just another stupid thought on my part ... my bad ... Lane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 My son, daughter and I have had a lot of fun building this up Its got flat top Speed pro pistons (9.5:1 cr) Ported, polished heads with 455 sized valves Roller rockers and a double roller timing chain, Holley "dominator" high rise intake and a Lunati "voodoo" "262" cam I hope to have in the car by labour day. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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