JH 50 Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). Did you follow the golden rule of having the car checked out by a mechanic? A test drive is fine but it won't reveal things that might be wrong. Get a mechanic to look the car over as well as a body shop to see if there's any old, hidden damage. Start deducting for anything found. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JH 50 Posted May 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 I did not have it checked out by an independent mechanic. The place I went to is a Cadillac dealership. One of the selling points of the car is the fact that it is coming with the Cadillac certified pre-owned warranty which is good for 6 years/100,000 miles (from the date the car was put into service). The car should have 3 years and some change left on a bumper to bumper warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Va Maddog Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 You should be safe with the warrantee, IMHO your upper limit is reasonable. Walk away if they won't deal with you, there are others like it out there. Look on Ebay motors for a start. If they won't deal, come back in a couple of weeks and ask again - best time to get a good deal is near the end of the month usually when everyone in the dealership is trying to meet quota's and goals. FYI - There are a lot of real nice used cars out there for that price range, not only Seville's. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). Did you follow the golden rule of having the car checked out by a mechanic? A test drive is fine but it won't reveal things that might be wrong. Get a mechanic to look the car over as well as a body shop to see if there's any old, hidden damage. Start deducting for anything found. Why pay a mechanic to check the car? An '02 with 17,000 miles is still under the factory warranty.... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). The dealer will make a lot of money on your trade unless it is a beater... They will usually lowball the trade value of your car. I usually balk at the low trade offer but then proceed with the negotiation. The dealer will be much more likely to lower the selling price of the "new" car as he will be able to make it up on the trade. I usually start talking money with the dealer about 45 minutes to 1 hour before they close. Once you start talking money, they won't stop even if it's past closing time.... Once you have the dealer as low as they will go, (you may need to walk out...) and you agree on the price, inform them that you will not be trading your old car in. They will usually give some excuse but tell them that the trade is worth $xxx per the quote so just add the same amount to the deal and then sell the car yourself. You will be money ahead and this tactic works every time. Don't let your emotions take over and don't be afraid to walk out if you don't like the deal. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob*97 SLS Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Start low! I'd offer 20K. They can ask for more but you can't come down if you offer too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 The salesman will always try to get you off balance by asking what you want to get for your car and then giving you a good price cause it is "so nice". Foget that crap. Tell him he can have your car for nothing. I told the the salesman that one time and I thought he was going to fall out of his chair. I also told him I'd give him $100,000 for the car I was buying.... if he gave ne $90,000 for mine. What I'm getting at is the price of the new car or the price of your car is irrelavent. The only thing that matters is the difference (the amount you write a check for). Go in knowing what your car is worth on a trade and what the car you are buying is worth. Offer the difference and nothing more, and tell them that includes tax, title transfer and rip off doc fees. If your numbers are reasonable and they won't agree, get up and walk out. My bet is you never get out the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprucegoose Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Start low! I'd offer 20K. They can ask for more but you can't come down if you offer too high. I agree, that is usually my findings. Do you research, and give them an offer near the bottom of the range of the vehicles woth. Very seldom will they let you walk without trying to bargain with you. I bought my 2 yr. old used Tahoe for $6k less than the sticker by sticking to my guns. I gave him an offer and told him that was what I felt it was worth. The salesman continued to call me throughout the day, and I only came up $200 from my original offer by the time the deal was inked! Good luck in your dealings! '09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi. '15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi '70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 The salesman will always try to get you off balance by asking what you want to get for your car and then giving you a good price cause it is "so nice". Foget that crap. Tell him he can have your car for nothing. I told the the salesman that one time and I thought he was going to fall out of his chair. I also told him I'd give him $100,000 for the car I was buying.... if he gave ne $90,000 for mine. What I'm getting at is the price of the new car or the price of your car is irrelavent. The only thing that matters is the difference (the amount you write a check for). Go in knowing what your car is worth on a trade and what the car you are buying is worth. Offer the difference and nothing more, and tell them that includes tax, title transfer and rip off doc fees. If your numbers are reasonable and they won't agree, get up and walk out. My bet is you never get out the door. You don't need to pay the documentation fee - that's added dealer profit... I usually object to it is it is over $40 and when they inform me that all customers must pay the fee, blah, blah, ....I get up and start to walk out but I never make it to the door before they agree to waive the documentation fee. Some dealers have a $150 documentation fee and that is just a ripoff! Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JH 50 Posted May 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Thanks for all the replies. I definitely have my game plan ready. My uncle and his brother-in-law both know the owner of the dealership so we'll have to see how this factors in. (I mentioned this to the salesperson who said the owner will be in tomoroow). I have been looking (not too seriously) for a while at local dealerships, newspaper ads, and ebay to get an idea on pricing. I am more than willing to walk away if I don't feel comfortable. After reading the posts, I am going in with 20,000 and will go no higher than 22,000. The salesperon did say that "everything is negotiable". Let the games begin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 The salesman will always try to get you off balance by asking what you want to get for your car and then giving you a good price cause it is "so nice". Foget that crap. Tell him he can have your car for nothing. I told the the salesman that one time and I thought he was going to fall out of his chair. I also told him I'd give him $100,000 for the car I was buying.... if he gave ne $90,000 for mine. What I'm getting at is the price of the new car or the price of your car is irrelavent. The only thing that matters is the difference (the amount you write a check for). Go in knowing what your car is worth on a trade and what the car you are buying is worth. Offer the difference and nothing more, and tell them that includes tax, title transfer and rip off doc fees. If your numbers are reasonable and they won't agree, get up and walk out. My bet is you never get out the door. You don't need to pay the documentation fee - that's added dealer profit... I usually object to it is it is over $40 and when they inform me that all customers must pay the fee, blah, blah, ....I get up and start to walk out but I never make it to the door before they agree to waive the documentation fee. Some dealers have a $150 documentation fee and that is just a ripoff! Doc fees are absoutely bullshit!! THe law in Ill. read that they can charge no more than $40 but they will lead you to belive that the law reads that they must charge $40. THat one really bugs me. If it's too much trouble to write up the "documents" to make the sale they can keep the car and loose the sale. They will always drop the charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 I was buying a car for my wife one time and I told her to walk out with me if we couldn't reach a deal. Well we didn't reach a deal so we got up to walk out the door and before we could get there my wife says "Wait a minute" and you should have seen the salesman reel her in. I was so mad. I told her, I was glad she was paying for the car. Do not get attached to the car. I hate to deal so I usually do my research and tell them I want to talk to the sales manager direct and tell him what I will give them and then walk. One time I was within $100 dollars on a Bronco and walked, dealer called the next day and said they would come down, but I told him I would not be back when I left the day before. I never went back. The last truck I bought, I test drove it, and had it bought within an hour. Make up a nice business card and give it to them when you walk, see how many steps you get before they bring you back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). Did you follow the golden rule of having the car checked out by a mechanic? A test drive is fine but it won't reveal things that might be wrong. Get a mechanic to look the car over as well as a body shop to see if there's any old, hidden damage. Start deducting for anything found. Why pay a mechanic to check the car? An '02 with 17,000 miles is still under the factory warranty.... Just because a car has low mileage doesn't automatically mean it's in good shape. Warranties are nice to have but it's worthless if you have to keep taking the car back for repairs, even if they are done "under warranty". It creates suspicion of the vehicle and it's roadworthiness when it keeps breaking down. A friend of mine recently went to a Caddy dealership who had an '02 with about 20,000 miles on it. We both looked at the car and I became suspicious over the paint on the front end; I suspected the car had been repainted. The dealership balked when he wanted to take it to a bodyshop to have a closer look but eventually, they gave in. Lucky for him he did this. Apparently, the car was involved in a pretty bad front end accident and the bodyshop found that the repair work was not up to standard. The body and paint were good, but the repairs under it were second rate with a lot of cheap aftermarket parts used instead of genuine GM and Cadillac parts. He declined to buy that car and instead purchased and '02 with a bit more miles on it but no evidence of any previous accidents or abuse. You really do have to look before you leap no matter where you are buying the car from. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romey-Rome Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Bring cash if you can, and let them get a peek of it. If they won't deal, leave your number and leave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ByStorm Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 If I were purchasing a used or new vehicle I would. 1. Prepare a budget to find out what I can afford without any stress and not be afraid to use it. 2. Pay clear attention to the interest rate. 3. Go to dinkytown.net under auto loans and plug in your figures so that way you know real close to what you should be paying. Peace, ByStorm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximln Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 The best way to negotiate the price of the car is to not tell the dealer that you have a trade in. Walk in like you want to buy the car and if they ask you about a trade, say something like you don't think you want to trade it in. Then negotiate the price the selling price of the car that you want to buy. Once you agree upon a selling price, then bring the trade into the deal and negotiate the price for that. Whatever you do, don't agree on a payment. Negotiate the price for the cars then worry about the payment. Also, going in close to closing helps to get rid of the BS since they want to sell the car but also want to go home so they usually just low ball you to see if you're really a buyer. Walking in with cash to a dealer makes no difference whatsoever. They get paid whether you pay in cash (they probably wouldn't sell it to you if you paid in all cash since it would seem very suspicious), check or finance. All they care about is selling the car. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Bring cash if you can, and let them get a peek of it. If they won't deal, leave your number and leave. A friend of mine used to sell cars, Cadillac among them. He once told me "walk in with your check book in one hand and your title in the other. The salesman will start to salivate". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JH 50 Posted May 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Went to the dealer, but left with no Caddy. I told the salesman that the car wasn't worth more than 21,000 to me. I also told him I wanted 7,300 for my trade in. He ends up talking to the sales manager and returns and says that the current offering price (24,900) is about as low as they'll go. He previously told me that the car was purchased by the dealership at an auction, to which I replied there is no way they paid anywhere near that. I thanked him for his time and my wife and I left. I left things very cordial as my uncle and his brother-in-law know the owner of the dealership and have bought new cars from there. On the way out the saleman said he would do everything he could to earn my business. He said that he will talk to the owner on Monday. I told him that if he comes up with those numbers he has a deal, otherwise forget it. I told him I'll continue to look around as I don't need a Caddy so I will wait for the right one. Sorry so long. I appreciate all the tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 The best advice I can give you is know the prices of what the cars sell for. Make an offer on car you like if they don't take the offer just walk away and find another dealer who will deal. Some dealers will not deal others will. It's a total package. If you trade a car in it's all about what your final cost ia out of pocket. Usually the best time to purchase a car is near the end of the month. Hey the bills come due and the dealer needs monies.Another good time is near the end of the quarter tax time.It all depens on the sales person some deal some don't. I'm lucky to a point I have been dealing with the same dealer for the past 20+ years and the same sales person so when I go to buy a car he just cuts to the best offer price wise and no one else even comes close price wise. As far as knowning the owner it can be a good or bad deal. I remember about 20 years ago I was buying a new vette a friend of mine takes me to a chevy dealer who he is friends with the owner. To make a long story short they were a couple thou more than I could buy the same car down the street from another dealer.Bartering is key and it's a learned skill practice makes perfect keep on plugging away.. Good Luck Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinkeydow1 Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Buy My One Owner 2000 STS with 17,000 miles on it still under factory warrenty. Sunroof, 6 cd changer, wood package, Why get a SLS when You can get a STS ?? dinkeydow1@yahoo.com Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Well....looked at and test drove a 2002 SLS today (17,000). I'm going back tomorrow to talk numbers and for them to look at my trade in. Any negotiating tips would be helpful. The asking price is 24,900 (which I'm not willing to pay). The NADA average trade in value is 21,750 and the average retail is 25,300. What is a good starting point? I am not willing to go over 23,000. Is this unrealistic? Thanks in advance. (BTW the car drives like a dream). Did you follow the golden rule of having the car checked out by a mechanic? A test drive is fine but it won't reveal things that might be wrong. Get a mechanic to look the car over as well as a body shop to see if there's any old, hidden damage. Start deducting for anything found. Why pay a mechanic to check the car? An '02 with 17,000 miles is still under the factory warranty.... Just because a car has low mileage doesn't automatically mean it's in good shape. Warranties are nice to have but it's worthless if you have to keep taking the car back for repairs, even if they are done "under warranty". It creates suspicion of the vehicle and it's roadworthiness when it keeps breaking down. A friend of mine recently went to a Caddy dealership who had an '02 with about 20,000 miles on it. We both looked at the car and I became suspicious over the paint on the front end; I suspected the car had been repainted. The dealership balked when he wanted to take it to a bodyshop to have a closer look but eventually, they gave in. Lucky for him he did this. Apparently, the car was involved in a pretty bad front end accident and the bodyshop found that the repair work was not up to standard. The body and paint were good, but the repairs under it were second rate with a lot of cheap aftermarket parts used instead of genuine GM and Cadillac parts. He declined to buy that car and instead purchased and '02 with a bit more miles on it but no evidence of any previous accidents or abuse. You really do have to look before you leap no matter where you are buying the car from. I was speaking strictly from a mechanical stanpoint. THe prospective buyer would still need to look at the paint, etc.. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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