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92 Seville 4.9 Radiator Overflow Location


Cadillac Jim

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I got this email from a guest through the forum; there was no username in the email. I don't know the 4.9 system except through my Chiltons (!!!) so I re-post his question here, and advised him to join the forum.

I have a 92 SLS. I read some caddyinfo.com post about coolant and you seem to know about this engines setup. Can you tell me where the Coolant overflow is located on my 92 4.9L SLS? If I overfill the coolant I get a puddle close to the front right tire but can't find where it comes from. I think it must over flow until it goes down to the lower level line in the reserve tank after the car stops and starts cooling down. I'd really like to know more about this cooling system.

Also my heater only leaks hot air slowly out the defroster, not the main vents when on. The defroster works perfect and blows hot so I've been using it to heat the car when needed. Any ideas?

BTW, If you have a shift knob that looks like a golf putter you should have it replaced because it might break and leave the car stuck in gear. A GM knob off of a pontiac sunfire is what I have and I like it.

I read that you're looking at Nav Systems. I have an iPhone and it can load google.com maps that I like. It shows maps and traffic on main freeways in my area.

The Northstar and most newer cooling systems have a pressurized overflow tank. The radiator cap is on the overflow tank and has a pressure vent that lets water into a small chamber under the radiator cap. There is a small rubber hose that comes out the side of this small chamber under the radiator cap and leads under the car in front of the strut tower. I believe that the 4.9 has this type of overflow tank, as does the Northstar.

Some cars, including most cars that have an overflow tank until recent years, have cooling systems with a non-pressurized overflow tank and a different type of radiator cap; in these cars the radiator cap is on the radiator, or on a metal hose going to the top tank or, with cross-flow radiators to the top of the side tank that takes hot water from the engine. The pressure relief on the radiator cap on this type of system is to a similar hose that goes to the bottom of the surge tank. The surge tank has an overflow that passes excess coolant to the ground.

Regarding the heater, there are vacuum servos under the dashboard that operate doors that control air flow. I suspect that one of these hoses has come off the vacuum servo that controls the flow between the heater vents and defroster vents, or that you have some similar issue with the system that routes the vacuum. It's also possible that you have a stuck servo or door.

I have a Garmin 360 nav system with Bluetooth and a Treo 750 (I gave the Motorola Razr back to my wife). I've "upgraded" my car phone to the Treo and thus the car phone is off, and I don't have OnStar anymore. The Treo can pull down Google maps and traffic reports, but I find that the Garmin gives me different routes depending on the time of day and thus apparently takes into account expected rush hour traffic, and real-time traffic in the Garmin will take a traffic receiver. I don't have a traffic receiver and my use of the Garmin doesn't drive me to want one because they require a subscription for data. A commercial or daily driver in congested areas would have a need for a traffic receiver. In an emergency, I would rely on the web capability of the Treo for Google or Yahoo traffic reports. I'll have a full report on the Garmin/Treo on my blog when I've worked out all the details, which will be soon.

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Look for the 1/8" rubber hose attached right below the radiator cap. That is the overflow. The tank should not be filled more than about 1/2. If you "fill" it, the excess will be expelled as the coolant heats and expands.

Defrost is the default mode. Like Jim said, you have a vacuum leak. A common leak point is the barking brake release diaphragm. Is the hose connected and does the brake release when put in gear?

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Rusted out heater pipes at lower passanger side of the engine and a cracked radiator side tank (they are made of plastic) are know sources of coolant leak in the area you described. Check them out when engine is hot, idling with some 3000 RPM (lift the throttle lever to increase RPMs manually while in Park).

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Thanks for the information guys.

My coolant was overfilled and its settled down to about half full. I see the small hose that connects the radiator to the reservoir and its working without any cracks or leaks. I'm unsure how the excess coolant overflows to the ground by the front right tire if overfilled. I'm sure it doesn't get there by going out the reservoir vent cap or the radiator valve cap and I'm assuming its somewhere I haven't looked.

My emergency brake releases about 95% of what it should. Just enough to leave the red brake light on the dash. Because I also have an AC heater issue and read the posts here I now realize the vacuum pump/diaphragm isn't functioning. I could use some information about how to find a discontinued vacuum pump/diaphragm and get it installed.

Below is a picture of the 92 Cadillac Seville taken in 07 and some history. I think it works and looks good at 15 years old with about 90K miles and the history might give people ideas of issues similar cars could have.

1992 Cadillac Seville Maintenance/History

Could Be Replaced/Fixed

Wheel hub Speed Sensors Sometimes Cause Anitlock Brake System (ABS) to Go on Even At Slow Speeds

Transmission Fluid Could Use Flush And Shows Some Metal In Fluid

Emergency-Brake and Heater Could Benefit From a new Vacuum Pump

1 Electronic Shock (Small Leak)

Oil Pan Gasket (Small Leak)

Valve Cover Gasket (Small Leak)

Power Steering Pump Gasket (Small Leak)

Original Alternator and Distributor Aging

Plugs and Plug Wires Aging

Heater/Coolant Hoses Aging

Upgraded/Modified AM Radio Hums When Headlights & Or Blinker Are On

Left Blinking Sticks (Added Spring)

2 AC Vents Plastic Broke

Rear Emblem Has Started to Turn Cyan/Blue/Green

Rear Inner Tail Lights Still Can Collect Some Condensation After Drilling Vents

Replaced

Hood Shocks

Tires on 3rd set

Front Plate Frame on 3rd

Wiper blades on 3rd set

Power Steering Fluid, New Pump

Oil, Oil Filter, About Every 4k miles

Air Filter About ever 12k miles

Front Constant Velocity (CV) Joints

Main And Only Engine Accessory Belt

3rd Battery, Die Hard Gold

Computer (Was Not Broken, Wiring Was Causing Timing Problem)

Wiring (Chewed By Rodent(s))

Window Washer Plastic (Chewed By Rodent(s))

Electric Trunk Auto Pull Down Latch Switch

Electric Water Pump and Radiator Coolant

Electric AV Compressor and AC Free-on

AC Freeon Leak Fixed 2x

Hood, Grill, Front Bumper Cover, Some Front Lights, Radiator/Coolant (Damage)

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve

Center Rear View Mirror Glue

4 DELCO Speakers, DELCO Amp, DELCO Radio/Tape Deck With 4 Alpine Component Speakers (10 Total), Alpine Amp, And Alpine Radio/MP3/WMA Deck With Audio In Connector and 12 Disk JVC FM modulated CD Changer

Power Antenna Replaced With Pontiac 6000 Antenna

Cracked Seville Shift Knob Replaced With Pontiac Sunfire Knob

post-1310-1191981869_thumb.jpg

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I'm unsure how the excess coolant overflows to the ground by the front right tire if overfilled. I'm sure it doesn't get there by going out the reservoir vent cap or the radiator valve cap and I'm assuming its somewhere I haven't looked.

If it is not right under the overflow tube, then it is coming from somewhere else. Might be the pump.

My emergency brake releases about 95% of what it should. Just enough to leave the red brake light on the dash. Because I also have an AC heater issue and read the posts here I now realize the vacuum pump/diaphragm isn't functioning. I could use some information about how to find a discontinued vacuum pump/diaphragm and get it installed.

The "vacuum pump" is the engine. If the brake pedal only returns 95%, something is hanging up and could be dragging your rear brakes. Might just need some oil on the pivot point, or maybe the cable is rusted. The vacuum diaphragm I mentioned is on the parking brake mechanism. Just follow the vacuum hose to it, but if it is releasing 95%, it is probably OK.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Funny that you should mention that your emergency brake releases about 95%. That is exactly what mine has been doing for years. No big deal for me. I just pull the peddle out the last little bit with the back of my foot. If I don't the E- brake light on the dash stays on, however, there is no apparent wear on the rear brakes.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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After reading the thread below I decided to look behind the glove box:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...967&hl=1340

The above thread is about the actuator that moves the air mix door between the heater core and the evaporator as you raise or lower the temperature control.

When the air is cold the metal bar moves left and when the air is hot the metal bar moves right on the 92 Seville.

The picture below shows what’s behind the 92 Seville glove box. Everything there looks like it’s working. 6 star-headed screws give access to this area.

post-1310-1193271756_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I broke the glove box latch pushing the glove box back into place so I ordered a new latch with new key online. The broken latch locked the box shut but a slot screw driver was able to open the box.

Update on the vacuum issue:

There are 2 vacuum pumps on this Seville. An electric pump shown in the picture above that will work if the parking brake needs to be released and the engine won't start, and an engine vacuum pump that always creates suction if the engine is running.

I found a garage that works on Cadillacs that I plan on having diagnose this thing, I think its a disconnected or leaking hose.

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