winterset Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Oops.... Rock is correct. What i meant to say is that you pour the bars into the top of the lower hose. Disconnect it at the top near the water pump, and pour it right down the hose, then connect the hose, and fill up the radiator with 50/50 at the radiator cap on the surge tank. Bars powder should never go in or near the surge tank. After refilling, monitor it for a few days for leaks, and keep the surge tank 3 inches from the top. It should not be topped off, and was not designed to be filled to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 k well the spark plug changing went smoother then I thought.... now next projuect is to change the water pump to see if it will stop leaking some and hopefully fix a few more things. whichis a good things it is no longer missing. oh question I want to ask A LOT of people are telling us to stop using the dexcool nd jut use regular antifreeze in our caddy what are you guys' thought about that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdgrinci Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 On Dexcool (and this is only my personal experience). Four GM cars, all with Dexcool from beginning till sold (or still in service, two), never a problem. I also use it in my motorcycle engine, it is a 2004 and never a problem. Checking forums and other auto sites there have been reported problems but other coolants might have produced similar results in non-maintained vehicles. I have heard of some gasket problems (gaskets breaking down) but that was with the early introduction of Dexcool, and believe this in no longer a concern. Also, just for info, I go the full five years between changing (as I'll never reach the 150,000 mile first). Your choice, most all coolants are good these days. Chuck '19 CT6, '04 Bravada........but still lusting for that '69 Z-28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 A LOT of people have no expierence working on a Northstar engine will gladly provide misinformation. The issue with Dexcool that everyone hears about is in an iron engine (small block Chevrolet) that is run for long periods with a low coolant level. The insides of the cooling system rust and the rust mixes with the coolant and plugs the heater core. This would happen with ANY coolant but since the engines had Dexcool in them, the uninformed automatically draw the incorrect conclusion that it is the Dexcool when it is the lack of attention to keeping the coolant at the proper level. This issue does not occur in an aluminum engine. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 the water pumps has done great no more overheating at all!!!!!!!!! yippee. but another question I have is they are saying the O2 sensors on both upper bank is showing bad and soeone else is saying that the catlytic converter he thinks is getting stopped up.. can you guys give me some clues as to what each of these will do as far as the running on of the car please. I have really enjoyed ALL of the GREAT HELP i have gotten from all of you. but can you Please tell me what each of these will effect the running of the vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Without being more specific on the o² codes its a guess. A lot of o² sensors are replaced when they are perfectly fine. Lean or rich codes are just a report from the sensors of what they are reading. Trying to understand what you mean by upper bank. You have bank 1 and bank 2. Then a upstream (before cat convertor) and downstream ( after cat). The upstream report what the engine is doing. If using a scan tool with data stream ( not just a code reader) the o² sensors should toggle from lean to rich ( from about .2 volt to .9 volt) about 2-3 times a second. The engine going lean to rich like this helps the palladium in the convertor to do its job. The down stream o² should stay relatively flat and steady at .4-.6 volts. Its job is to report back that the cat convertor is doing its job. If this sensor toggles like the upstream then the cat is not doing its job and that's how the pcm determines cat efficiency. The only reasons to replace an o² is for a failed heater circuit or it has no response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 J Without being more specific on the o² codes its a guess. A lot of o² sensors are replaced when they are perfectly fine. Lean or rich codes are just a report from the sensors of what they are reading.Trying to understand what you mean by upper bank. You have bank 1 and bank 2. Then a upstream (before cat convertor) and downstream ( after cat). The upstream report what the engine is doing. If using a scan tool with data stream ( not just a code reader) the o² sensors should toggle from lean to rich ( from about .2 volt to .9 volt) about 2-3 times a second. The engine going lean to rich like this helps the palladium in the convertor to do its job.The down stream o² should stay relatively flat and steady at .4-.6 volts. Its job is to report back that the cat convertor is doing its job. If this sensor toggles like the upstream then the cat is not doing its job and that's how the pcm determines cat efficiency.The only reasons to replace an o² is for a failed heater circuit or it has no response. Thank you for that explanation I just went down to have it reread at Advance and it is showing several different codes for both bank 1 and bank 2 and for the one or ones behind the Catalytic converter. How many oxygen sensors are on a 97 Cadillac Seville SLS with the Northstar in it? the way I was understanding it there is 4 am I understanding that correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 4 is correct. Each bank has an o² before and after the cat. Also forgot using some kid at advances auto to pull codes. Your car will pull codes and erase codes from the dash. Not sure how to for your year but a quick search will answer how to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Woods Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Pull the codes and list them here. I'm sure a member will be able to help once we know exact codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hoe do I know the exact codes without using Advance or Auto Zone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 With the key on, simultaneously press and hold the OFF and PASSENGER WARMER buttons on the climate control panel. When the system starts the segment check, you can release the buttons. The system will display the codes by system and when it is finished, PCM? will be displayed indicating the system is awaiting input. Use FAN UP for "yes" and FAN DOWN for "no". You can either press "AUTO" or turn off the key to exit the diagnostics. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Thanks KHE I will try that when my husband get in from work. These cars that have ALL the sensors and brains gets to me at times.... I would much rather work on 60's - 80's model you have more room to work and to me they are a lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 I am really glad I found this web site and I WANT TO THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP YOU ARE GIVING ME. th first set of codes are the current codes, the the second set are the history codes then the third are the ones that has neither. PCM-P0135 -HEATEDO2 SENSOR HEATER PERFORMANCE BANK 1 SENSOR 1 P0401-EGR P1153-HEATED O2 SENSOR INSUFFICIENT SWITCHING BANK2 SENSOR 1 P0151 (JUST SHOWED UP AFTER DRIVING IT) -HEATED O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE BANK2 SENSOR 1 those are the only current codes it shows now for history PCM- P0141 P0151 P0154 ACM 1340 1348 1350 1983 MCM- B2107 B0856 B1983 That is all in history all of the folling showed no codes whatsoever IPC TCS RSS PZM IRC RFA CCP MMM now tht is all the codes it does show so please help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 I am really glad I found this web site and I WANT TO THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP YOU ARE GIVING ME. th first set of codes are the current codes, the the second set are the history codes then the third are the ones that has neither. PCM-P0135 -HEATEDO2 SENSOR HEATER PERFORMANCE BANK 1 SENSOR 1 P0401-EGR P1153-HEATED O2 SENSOR INSUFFICIENT SWITCHING BANK2 SENSOR 1 P0151 (JUST SHOWED UP AFTER DRIVING IT) -HEATED O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE BANK2 SENSOR 1 those are the only current codes it shows now for history PCM- P0141 P0151 P0154 ACM 1340 1348 1350 1983 MCM- B2107 B0856 B1983 That is all in history all of the folling showed no codes whatsoever IPC TCS RSS PZM IRC RFA CCP MMM now tht is all the codes it does show so please help? OK I found out the meaning of the codes through a website called engine-codes.com the P0151 will be fixed when I fix P1153. but my question is where is the EGR located at on my 97 Seville SLS N*? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 It is located right by the fuel rail, driver side. on top . Has electrical plug on top. The fuel rail will have to be lifted to remove the stud on one side. Not bad to remove though. Follow the air intake tube and it is next to the throttle body, Firewall side GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnstreen Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 ok we got most everything fixed BUT where is the temperature sensor at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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