Ranger

Might check the fuel pressure as well.

I have used Westleys for decades. Great stuff, but now that white walls have just about gone the way of the carburetor, is sits on my shelf.

My 4.1 got better mileage than the diesel and while no powerhouse by any stretch of the imagination, it was WAY faster than the diesel.

I too had an '81. It was a bigger dog than the 4.1. After the Roosamaster injection pump went, it blew a head gasket. That's when I dumped it. Don't know what if anything was changed so I can't speak for the later ones, but I wouldn't have one.

That is not a given. Sometimes it is true, but not always. It depends on where the leak is an how bad it is. I have seen many hot pressurized leaks.

Huh? It's identified by the leak, steam, telltale wetness or drips. It's a symptom of a leaky gasket, seal or failed component.

Check the PCV grommet for a nice tight fit.

Ditto on all of the above.

That is the cabin vacuum supply line. It supplies vacuum to the HVAC and the parking brake release.

What kind of pressure test? A cooling system pressure test? That will not detect a bad head gasket. A cylinder leak down test where each cylinder is pressurized will. Which one was done? You can also get a block test kit and sample the air in the surge tank for exhaust gases.

The "pressure relief valve" is in the surge tank cap. The cap is either a 16# or 18# cap. If it does not hold pressure, it will run hot or overheat, depending on how much pressure it holds.

Jim, I think you are talking about AJetcman. He is a Caddy tech, but I have not heard much from him lately and I'm not sure if he was completely successful or not. Westers is the only one that I am aware of that can do it properly. There is a guy at the cadillacowners.com that just had it done and is pretty happy with the outcome. My understanding is Westers will talk to you and find out exactly what you are looking for and tune it to suit you. Apparently they asked him a lot of questions. I think this is one of those you get what you pay for things. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/200215-ranger-submariner-dts-z-swap-testing.html#post2247224

http://westersgarage.eidnet.org/index2.htm

I've been using it for several years now and would have to agree. Mine is not a Porter Cable and is not fool proof, but it sure makes short work of a long job. TIP: Wax your headlamp lenses and then buff them at about 1500 RPM. Mine look like they did in the showroom and it is 7 yrs old with 80K on it.

I PM'd Jake as well so he can defend himself. He IS in fact just starting up. I believe he has done over 100, but I know he just moved to this new larger location. Not exactly sure how long he has been in doing this, but I don't think it has been too long.

Shift points are set by the PCM via data from electronic monitors such as the TPS, MAP/MAF sensors, and probably many others. The air filter should have absolutely no effect on it.

Forget performance chips. The Tornado will do the same thing.

His is in the same place BBF.

Contact Jake. He may have a shipping agreement at a reasonable price.

That about says it all.

Just a chance that the relief valve is slightly stuck. It's worth a try. Over fill the crankcase by 8 qts. Rev the engine to 4K a few times. Then drain it back to the mid point on the dip stick. I really doubt that this will help, but it will only cost you 8 qts. of oil to try it.

Carnuba is good wax, just doesn't last.

Yeah I remember it. Liquid wax and paste sealer. An all day job. I think they still make Blue Coral, though it is not the same stuff as I recall. I've recently started using Meguires NXT and like it. Easy on, easy off, looks good and it lasts.

If you can't find the powdered version (G12BP) that JimD mentioned, the tabs are part no. HDC pictured at the bottom http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=37

Yeah, as I recall you need to use the Braile method to find it.