BodybyFisher

Whetever the case may be he leaves a lot of info out. Based on the video it looked like it could be buffed out 😉. Exaggeration I know but it didn't look like they would need to many parts to repair that, it certainly didn't look like an $8,800 repair in US or EU I went to the video and asked for a detailed list of what was done for +- $9k. I also watched the other video, which explains that he bought the car sight unseen and where he itemized a bunch if problems it had. He did say he loves the car. I may invite him to our home here, maybe we can help him going forward. So he doesn't think we are a couple of internet clowns 🥳🥳 could you soften your critique a bit? I'll clean this up after you see this. I personally love the STS-V and would enjoy having one here. I am sure you could help him quite a bit. Thx

Odd that you would get a creaking noise while turning with a new strut bearing. Could the creak not be due to rotation but due to a shift in the entire strut because it is not seated at the top where the three nuts are? It is kind of a quirky set up, I had difficulty last time. When does the ABS light come on?, when you turn the key on? What code is set?

What did you do to repair the ABS? Reflow the solder connections on the EBCM coils?

This car was repaired in a foreign country, parts needed to be shipped from the US, VAT tax alone was $1,800. Not sure what the point of this video was, the transport company paid for it, who knows if the parts were list price or inflated due to a deductible. I would like to see what parts were needed, it looks like they replaced the nose, on a V which is not a common part when there was little damage that could have been repaired instead. Beautiful car though

No issue at all, they were probably new and just breaking in (pun intended).

I found that the sensors drift, you might try different sensors, measure them with an ohm meter.

Good review

Hi @sprucegoose I think Cadillac Jim should be able to shed some light on this, he probably has a manual for his CTS which should help.

I was thinking, that because he wasn't getting engine braking from the downshift, he relied on the brakes more probably heating them up. That wasn't a leisurely drive with lots of turns, and it didn't sound as if the engine was loafing

Bruce, I recall the CTS-V Brembo brakes smoking quite a bit at the CTS-V Challenge but the brakes performed flawlessly all day. Short redline?, 6,000 rpm? My guess is this transmission has not been calibrated yet or it has been calibrated conservatively so as to not put the vehicle into a skid on wet ground, the downshift has a conservative delay. But, once in the highest performance mode, that delay should be gone.

Glad to see type of analysis. I never thought of the 500 as a high output HP engine, having owned a 74.

I speak to Mark on and off, he was racing a CTS-V for a while. Ill post a link to his YouTube vids

@caddylovermarco We used to have an engineer on the Northstar and 4.9 design teams here and he said the same thing, the induction system is capable of so much more output. What he did say was a problem was the bottleneck of the front exhaust to the Y pipe, he liked the OEM headers but disliked the way the front was run to the y-pipe and y-pipe and he though power could be found there. The existing setup was a compromise they couldn't resolve in the transverse orientation We had a member Mark who turbocharged his STS, and if I recall he ran the front exhaust under the engine carriage

I am very glad to hear that! @CampoCougar

@CampoCougar Let us know how this turns out It occurred to me, do you have an aftermarket alarm?

If you have not disconnected the battery, take the negative cable off the battery first, then remove the positive cable, then touch the cables together for a minute. Then attach the positive cable then the negative cable and see if that helps. That will 'reboot' the system. This has nothing to do with the blower PS did you disconnect the battery during the waterpump job?

@Mikemt68 Let us know how we can help. Glad you got it running good. You are lucky she stayed together for your 1,100 mile trip... Mike

In such a short distance for it to get that hot to burst into a flame is unusual. Maybe one of the bearings seized up and it got so hot that the grease burst into flames. When you remove the alternator see if it turns freely. I dont know the HT4100, so I don't know if this is a serpentine belt with a tensioner or if the alternator itself is tightened, which in 1982 is probably the case. Use a prybar and snug up the belt till you can get a 1/2" of deflection when you push down on the belt on a long side. Let us know how this works out and good luck with the car @Mikemt68

Never heard of this happening. That you drove it 1100 miles, then this happened is odd. I could see the alternator overheating badly if you jumped a dead battery but you replaced the battery, very odd. There is very little in the alternator that can burn.

Ahh, an excuse to buy a tool! Nice, and its a snap on, even better!

Glad to help. I know you know, but follow the base of the distributor down to the block and you should find it.

Look on the firewall

@blue92 You probably can get your trunk pull down motor from a scrap yard and that's what I would advise you do and rewire it the way it was originally. There is Nationwide database of scrap yards at http://www.Car-parts.com Try going there and search your local area for your year and also for other models that may have the same trunk pulldown. What was the result of the ECM tap test? What is your fuel pressure? I have never heard of an EGR solenoid tap test E048, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Problem Read these threads on the E048, your EGR system is dirty and you need to clean it out, there are EGR ports when you look down in the throttle body, rod them out with a hanger or use round wire brushes. You might even pull your EGR valve and clean it up with wire brushes. Do not submerge it in cleaning fluid but you can soak it up to the pindle. Replace the EGR gasket when you pull the valve.. https://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/topic/11436-faltering-acceleration/?tab=comments#comment-234429 http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=6526&hl=round+wire+brushes

"Don't ANY of you understand?" Are you including me in that statement? I said NOTHING about what you did, all I did was ask a few questions looking to understand your process Please do not generalize. @caddylovermarco

Is this an aftermarket alarm? I need to look into what 7.0 means, I have never seen that before. Are you sure that when the system does a segment check all LEDS are lit? A segment check is when all LEDS light up when you first request the DTC codes. It is interesting that it quit going over a dip. Because it quit so quickly I am apt to think it is electrical in nature. I have experienced something similar years ago. If I were you I would do a few tests. Do a TAP TEST on the ECM while the engine is idling. Holding the ECM tap on it firmly with your knuckle. If it hesitates or stumbles at all, first detach the ECM connector spray both sides with electrical contact cleaner and and reattach the connector. Sometimes just R&Ring the connector will reestablish the connection. Then redo the tap test, did that correct the stumble?, if not replace the ECM if it stumbles. If the tap test is good, check the fuse boxes for corrosion, pull each fuse and relay and check for green/white corrosion. Focus especially on Ignition, fuel pump, injector, power, ecm items. Tap on the fuel pump relay while it idles any stumble replace it. With it idling grab the underhood harnesses and move them up and down watch for stumble. Check the electrical connections at the distributor for a positive connection, no corrosion, tight connectors, jiggle them while it idles. Let us know what you find, Ill research the 7.0 message