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CampoCougar last won the day on January 26

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  1. A whining similar to a power steering whine is a tel tale sign of a failing torque converter. It will usually be louder when cold and then drop a bit when warmed up. This is a big job to replace a TC on a Northstar FWD. It would cost approx $1,500 in California, parts and labor.
  2. Play it safe. Go to a junkyard and take one out of '98 or later. If you already installed the amber units, but did not use their plug, then that could be the problem with them not programming. The amber light units have a three trace plug and circuit board connector, the red light unit have two trace; not interchangeble. I already installed the unit, so I may have a hard time taking a picture of the new plug, but I can take pic of the old plug. They are both two wire plugs. The red light uni ('97 and older) unit has an orange wire and black wire. The amber light unit has an orange wire and a blue /white wire. Crimp the orange to orange, and the black to the blue/white. The picture shows the two and three trace units, that why you need the plug also when making this changeover to a '98 and later unit.
  3. My '95 Seville has the Homelink with the red lamp. Nothing I could do would program my garage door opener, because of the "rolling code" garage door openers these days. After researching, I have found that GM vehicles '97 and under have the Homelink red lamp system which worked with the non rolling code garage openers. Beginning in 1998 mode year, Homelink then switched to the amber light system, which means they are equipped to program the rolling code garage door openers of today. Off to the junk yard I went today. Got really lucky, found a '99 Deville, and removed the Homelink transmitter, needing only a phillips screw drivers and wire snip pliers. The harness is NOT interchangeable between the red and amber systems. You must take the harness plug with it (just snip the two wires a few inches away from the transmitter). I did a bench test first before I installed into the car to make sure it was going to work (just connected a 9v battery for the power), and it worked. It installs in the standard bracket with just a little patience, and cut the old harness plug off the harness, and crimped in the new one, cleared it, programmed it to the controller remote, and it now works !!!! Long story short: if you have a '97 or earlier car, and a newer garage door opener, throw away the red lamp Homelink and install the amber light unit.
  4. I concur with the vacuum leak possibility. Easy to find with a can of carb spray. Spay on the vacuum lines one at a time. If the RPMS suddenly rise, you found the leak. You can also use a squirt bottle of water, only the RPM will stumble when you find the leak. I made a smoke machine from a soldering iron, a clear glass mayonnaise jar holding a sock soaked with baby oil, and clear aquarium tubing. Woks great. Found two leaks last year on my 95 Seville.
  5. It has what appears to a be a replacement torque converter. I've had it for three years, and had bought it from a lady who just "had transmission work done". Maybe they did not use thread locker and they loosened over time. There is some controversy over using thread locker on fine pitched threads. I say use it; cheap insurance and it won't hurt anything.
  6. For the past several months, there has been an annoying rattle in the lower engine area of my '95 Seville. It became worse over the past few weeks. My first thought was a bad main or rod bearing as the noise seemed to be in the lower engine. Some people suggested possible bad flex plate or torque converter. A local trans shop estimated $1,500 to replace both. However after close inspection and some honest advice from a GM dealer tech, I found the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate had loosened quite a bit, causing the torque converter to rattle and the loose bolt head to slightly contact the trans housing causing. I jacked up the car, chocked the rear wheels for safety, put jackstands underneath the front, and layed on the ground. I first removed the front 02 sensor, then the exhaust plate brace from the oil pan (four bolts, one minute to remove) and the cross bar in front securing the trans and engine (one bolt on one end, a nut only on the other sharing the motor mount, 2 minutes). I then had access to remove the bottom trans dust/flywheel shield, which gave me fairly easy access to the four torque converter bolts, using an 18 mm socket and swivel from the side. I removed each one, cleaned it and applied thread locker, set them back into the hole with a swivel socket and final torqued them with an 18mm combonation wrench. I allowed some time for the thread locker to dry before starting. Bingo !!!! Noise gone. Lessons learned: the bolts can easily be accessed from underneath, trans removal not needed. While in there, the flex plate can also be easily inspected for the dreaded cracks ( a known GM problem). Third, is that you can also see very clearly if rear main seal is leaking (mine was only slightly, then stops). Perhaps the most important lesson is that this noise can be deceiving. Before tearing the engine apart or listening to bad advise on the engine rods or mains, or trans needed overhaul, just take some time to check out those bolts on your own. If they are even a slight bit loose, they must be tightened.
  7. Cool ! My only concern is the possibility of the CD unit failing. I guess I could repair it if it happens. If possible, I would like to rig a switch to the CD harness to make it think it is on, without having to use a CD. I much rather have found the audio left and right on the tuner board and tapped into that.
  8. I considered the silent CD, but I did not want any distortion on interference, so I cut them instead.
  9. The factory Bose Gold Edition stereo seemed difficult to hack. However, after studying some other GM forums, I decided the best was was through the CD audio wiring. Really, who listens to CD much anyway? The hack is dead easy. There are two plugs going to the CD (same as the tape player also). The larger plug with mostly brown wires controls the functions of the player and is left plugged in. The smaller three wire plug is the audio output from the CD player. The red is the left channel, the tan is the right and the black shielded center is the ground. I simply connected snipped the plug off and soldered my jack wires to the the wires which go the the main circuit board. A CD must be in the unit, as it fools the radio into thinking the CD is sending the music. But it is actually your MP3 player, Iphone or whatever. The radio does not know the difference. You can switch back to AM/FM by simply pressing the ST/PL button, or ejecting the CD. Works great. Cost me about an hours time and $4 for the jack. Have a nice day........
  10. Basic auto diagnosis of the mechanical components first. Rule out the starter and battery. If it clicks, even momentarily, then it may very well be the battery. Hook a voltmeter to the battery and have a helper attempt to crank. If the base voltage really drops during starting attempt, then the battery is dead. If those check out, then maybe bypass the neutral safety switch temporarily. If it then starts, then you found the culprit.
  11. No one knew this one either? Wow. Thanks , I found it myself.
  12. I have not done this, however. I'm betting there is a simple switch on the gear shift or linkage. Get a schematic and check the color coding of the wiring. Maybe disconnect it and rule out what if affected and what is not. If it is not integrated into the body control computer, and simply and electrical switch, it can simply be disconnected.
  13. Replaced them today, learned a few things. Fairly easy to do, only $39 set on Amazon, among other places. The car must be equally lifted after both wheels off; one side of the suspension cannot be "loaded" and the side unloaded. Equal tension needed on both sides of the sway bar. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS !!!! I also chocked the rear wheels from moving. If your link boots are ripped like mine were, spray PB Blaster or other lubricant on the studs, tap around them them with a ball peen to allow penetration, and allow to soak overnight. Give them a good smack the next day and they should pop right out, as long as you have access to swing the hammer. Severe cases may need some heat. Replacing the new ones was a cake walk; nothing to it. For added security, I applied a small amount Loctite on the threads and torqued the bolts. Once the wheels are back on and lowered back off the jack stands, take off the caps on the strut towers and push down on the bumper. If there is any upward movement of the shock head bolt, secure it. It was amazing how smoother and quieter the ride is after doing all of this in one weekend. I noticed no more popping, rattling or tapping; completely quiet again. Hope this helps someone out there !!!