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CampoCougar

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CampoCougar last won the day on January 26

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  1. I am thinking this a timing advance wire, that when disconnected, returns the timing to base fixed timing. Adjustment is made from that point. Ford has a similar system in the 90s that you grounded to get to fixed timing. I would think the wire itself is coming from the ignition module or distributor area.
  2. Thanks so much!!! It worked. I disconnected both cables completley, and grounded them to each other, and also pulled the fuses for the PCM, HVAC, cooling and ignition. Let it sit overnight. Everything is functioning as normal. Great lesson learned !
  3. I'll give it a try. No, I did not disconnect the battery. It simply did not cross my mind. However, I probably should have. Thanks man !!
  4. '95 Seville STS, 4.6. Replaced the water pump, rented tool from O'Reilly. That went well. However, the next morning, the battery completely dead. This did not make sense. I charged the battery, and then noticed the dash display stays on without the key,' and the blower motor runs also. I disconnected the harness plug to the blower motor, and again this morning, battery dead. This seemed too coincidental to just have suddenly happened. I am thinking that while coolant drained when I took the hoses off, it had spilled onto ABS brake modulator and the the EBTCM module and harness.
  5. A whining similar to a power steering whine is a tel tale sign of a failing torque converter. It will usually be louder when cold and then drop a bit when warmed up. This is a big job to replace a TC on a Northstar FWD. It would cost approx $1,500 in California, parts and labor.
  6. Play it safe. Go to a junkyard and take one out of '98 or later. If you already installed the amber units, but did not use their plug, then that could be the problem with them not programming. The amber light units have a three trace plug and circuit board connector, the red light unit have two trace; not interchangeble. I already installed the unit, so I may have a hard time taking a picture of the new plug, but I can take pic of the old plug. They are both two wire plugs. The red light uni ('97 and older) unit has an orange wire and black wire. The amber light unit has an orange wire and a b
  7. My '95 Seville has the Homelink with the red lamp. Nothing I could do would program my garage door opener, because of the "rolling code" garage door openers these days. After researching, I have found that GM vehicles '97 and under have the Homelink red lamp system which worked with the non rolling code garage openers. Beginning in 1998 mode year, Homelink then switched to the amber light system, which means they are equipped to program the rolling code garage door openers of today. Off to the junk yard I went today. Got really lucky, found a '99 Deville, and removed the Homelink transmitter
  8. I concur with the vacuum leak possibility. Easy to find with a can of carb spray. Spay on the vacuum lines one at a time. If the RPMS suddenly rise, you found the leak. You can also use a squirt bottle of water, only the RPM will stumble when you find the leak. I made a smoke machine from a soldering iron, a clear glass mayonnaise jar holding a sock soaked with baby oil, and clear aquarium tubing. Woks great. Found two leaks last year on my 95 Seville.
  9. It has what appears to a be a replacement torque converter. I've had it for three years, and had bought it from a lady who just "had transmission work done". Maybe they did not use thread locker and they loosened over time. There is some controversy over using thread locker on fine pitched threads. I say use it; cheap insurance and it won't hurt anything.
  10. For the past several months, there has been an annoying rattle in the lower engine area of my '95 Seville. It became worse over the past few weeks. My first thought was a bad main or rod bearing as the noise seemed to be in the lower engine. Some people suggested possible bad flex plate or torque converter. A local trans shop estimated $1,500 to replace both. However after close inspection and some honest advice from a GM dealer tech, I found the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate had loosened quite a bit, causing the torque converter to rattle and the loose b
  11. Cool ! My only concern is the possibility of the CD unit failing. I guess I could repair it if it happens. If possible, I would like to rig a switch to the CD harness to make it think it is on, without having to use a CD. I much rather have found the audio left and right on the tuner board and tapped into that.
  12. I considered the silent CD, but I did not want any distortion on interference, so I cut them instead.
  13. The factory Bose Gold Edition stereo seemed difficult to hack. However, after studying some other GM forums, I decided the best was was through the CD audio wiring. Really, who listens to CD much anyway? The hack is dead easy. There are two plugs going to the CD (same as the tape player also). The larger plug with mostly brown wires controls the functions of the player and is left plugged in. The smaller three wire plug is the audio output from the CD player. The red is the left channel, the tan is the right and the black shielded center is the ground. I simply connected snipped the plug o
  14. Basic auto diagnosis of the mechanical components first. Rule out the starter and battery. If it clicks, even momentarily, then it may very well be the battery. Hook a voltmeter to the battery and have a helper attempt to crank. If the base voltage really drops during starting attempt, then the battery is dead. If those check out, then maybe bypass the neutral safety switch temporarily. If it then starts, then you found the culprit.
  15. No one knew this one either? Wow. Thanks , I found it myself.
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