BodybyFisher

Its funny you say that, I have a chipmunk problem. Maybe its time for mothballs

This is great to know. And I am glad you got it running again. In all my years this is the first Iv see a filter change solve a no drive in drive condition. Obviously, I know it's possible, but I had never seen it happen before. This is definately solid reasoning to maintain your tranny regularly as I know Cadillac Jim does.

Consider that the motor you are using draws less and puts overall draw into an acceptable range even with a bad relay. Just playing devils advocate here. I dont think the motor you have wired is an ABS motor correct?

@rockfangd If you don't mind what trickle charger do you use?, I just bought one. Ill post details, but I am not fully confident in it based on some reviews I read. I bought it for my generator battery and car battery.

@rockfangd I was doing some reading. They speak of a relay that energizes the motor momentarily. Could the contacts on that relay be burned / charred thereby increasing the draw/resistance so much that the system faults? Have you looked at the relay?

@SteveW Glad to hear you figured it out. I want to add this for future, I found it on AllData Symptoms of Code P0101 Engine stalling Difficulty starting Lack of power Rough idle Causes of Code P0101 Dirty, obstructed, or faulty mass air flow sensor Damaged or disconnected air intake boot (snorkel) Vacuum leak Clogged or improperly installed air filter Clogged catalytic converter / restricted exhaust

@krow So to summarize, you had NO DRIVE, changed the fluid and now all is good? How was the fluid level when there was no drive?

I have replaced the vacuum servo on a 96. To test the servo operation, set the parking brake, You will need a hand operated vacuum pump like a mighty vac with a gage Attach a 24 inch or so hose to the vacuum pump, and attach it to the vacuum servo after you remove its hose. Pump the hand pump, if the servo diaphram is bad, you won't see any pressure show on the gage and the brake won't release and you need to replace the servo. On the other hand, if the brake releases, you have a vacuum supply problem. Check all vacuum lines. I have a vacuum hose diagram some place Ill see if I can find it.

There is a manual release lever on the inboard side of it. Look under the dash with a flashlight. If you have an owners manual you will find it explained. If you dont have an owners manual PM me your email and Ill send you one.

4.9, I think, If you still need the part numbers try calling the dealer.

p0101 "Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit/Performance Malfunction" Code P0101 Definition Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit/Performance Check all plugs around the MAF for being damaged or disturbed by the PVC pipe job. Did this happen before you replaced the PVC pipe? What year/model vehicle is this? Try disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery connection to reboot the PCM. Then see this thread

Oh ok, you'll get it

What year and model?, did I miss it?

I hope this helps a little, take a look at this thread and the ones below it https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/code-c1243-bpmv-pum0p-motor-stalled-this-means-what.66580/

I don't know this system's operation well. But could this be something outside the motor frying the motor? Is it a dc motor driven by PWM?

Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then reconnecting.. that will reboot the system in order. Let us know if that helps. Always disconnect the negative cable first.

Anytime I was especially impressed that they knew that if the NS alternator was not properly rebuilt an F code (I think its the F code) shows up, it has to do with the using the proper regulator.

The guru (a GM Northstar Powertrain Engineer) used to say, "drive it like you stole it"!

I have used BBB they do a good reman. I was in their facility on Long island and they are knowledgeable.

Put a fuel presssure gage on it to see exactly what the fuel pressure is with the key on. Its nice that its running, but whats the pressure. Don't parts replace, leave the plugs alone, they won't cause a no start problem Tell us the history of the car was this a sudden problem? Did the car sit for a long time? Did you dump fuel in it from a container that might have water in it? Drain a little fuel using the fuel pressure gage, into a clear glass bottle and let it sit, if water is in there it will separate. Have you checked for codes? Buy a spark tester at the parts store,.it plugs into the end of.the spark plug wire and gets.connected to ground. Check fuses for injectors, ignition, fuel pump for corrosion and continuity.

Beautiful car you are lucky to find that with low mileage. It has been said that the head gaskets blow because coolant goes acidic from not being changed, it eats the head gasket and coolant leeches into the headbolt threads and corrodes them via electrolysis weakening the threads and the bolts pull out of the block. We had a Northstar powertrain here for a while and that was GMs finding on the matter. And I am not doubting GMs prognosis, because I have seen aluminum block material turned to dust from electrolysis and acidic coolant would facilitate that. I have since blown 2 Northstar's and both times it happened at the redline, around 5,800 rpm. I felt the head gasket let go and had a misfire at the next stop. In both instances I was using regular fuel, when premium is recommended. In both instances my foot was to the floor and hit about 85 to 90. I am pretty sure I heard knocking before a stumble that I felt in the seat of my pants. Now this is my opinion, I believe that my fuel delivery was compromised at either the pump or filter and fuel pressure dropped off causing a lean condition that led to destructive detonation ripping the bolts out of the block. A partially clogged filter can breeze along all day at 650 to 4000 rpm delivering adequate fuel only to fail to deliver additional fuel above 4000 rpm (arbitrary numbers but you get my drift) and even though the PCM calls for a rich mixture at full throttle inadequate fuel pressure is not capable of keeping up with demand and a lean condition arises. So, my advice is to change your fuel filter every couple of years for safety sake. In addition, check your fuel pressure at idle and up the rpm range to be sure the pressure stays within spec. Detonation causes huge pressure spikes in the cylinder and you want to avoid it. There will be those who say, that's why there is a knock sensor, it will retard the ignition to eliminate the knock. But, it has to actually knock for the knock sensor to act, and at 6,000 rpm, that might be too late. I am also considering that this happens cumulatively, the first time the head lifts filling the headbolt wells with coolant and the cycle begins. Destructive detonation could also push the headbolt outside of the elastic zone and into the plastic zone permanently lessening the clamping force, and so on and so on. Be sure your cooling system is in perfect shape and that it holds rated pressure without leakdown. High coolant temps invites detonation, so it is advisable to keep the cooling system in good shape. Furthermore, I would never use regular fuel in a 93 to 99 NS again, low octane fuels detonate easier than high octane fuel. 93 octane! A recipe for detonation, would be starving the engine for fuel at high RPM, with regular fuel, in an engine that is overheating. If you watch engines on dynos or vehicles on a dyno you will notice that the tech tests to be sure the air-fuel ratio does not lean out at progressively higher rpms, they remedy that before going full power. Good luck with that beauty

Ahh, I see now after rereading your post above

They try hard to be balanced. I would say he dominated the conversation but it is his blog. At 6'4 I am glad to hear the seats go back. My mother in laws Lincoln is made for small people and my knees are on the dash with the seat back. I wish GM didn't dilute the V series medallion it needed to be on the level of AMG, unless they gave up on that level. That would make true V series models even more special

You would have helped him knowing that there was an entertainment center 'over the air' fix. He never received an itemized breakdown and the bill was paid by the shipping company. Ill invite him here

Ok I asked him this: Is it possible to have a list of items repaired for $8,800, that seems to be an awful lot of money for the damage in the video. Thanks He responded: See screen shot