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Short Star Help


OynxSTS

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My sisters 2001 Olds Intrigue suffers from the head light flicker and other electrical gremlins that some of the these (otherwise great) cars seem to have...

Factory Shortstar alternator is 125 Amps whereas the Factory Northstar alternator is rated at 140 Amps

Both cars a loaded with all kinds of power drains... Heated seats, Bose Stereo, Auto A/C and power every thing...

Question...

Will the N* Alternator fit?

Will it work?

Will it solve the problem?

caddy.jpg

Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac,

I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back

ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide

Greg

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Our Grand Caravan has a 160-amp alternator, but not near the electrical accessories our Cadillac has. Yet, there is a headlight flicker sometimes when driving at night. Not only when the brake is depressed...sometimes, they just appear to flicker. There is a recall for that on some model years to reflash the BCM (Body Control Module). Our particular model year is not included, but it displays the same symptoms, so the recall may be expanded.

I doubt the alternator is "undersized" for that Intrigue, but it may have a problem with either a voltage regulator or body control software.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Best to understand if the parts in there are working properly, or if it has a intermittant short or load somewhere rather than throw in stronger parts to fix. May be something simple and cheap like better grounding, or sealing.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Thanks Jason & Bruce...

Yes the first line of attack is to check each and every ground on the car... The car is already on its second alternator... So I'm hoping that the ground attachment there is loose...

Just like Sevilles are known to "shake" Intrigues are known to "flash"... I was hopping that the Alternator might be undersized on the Shortstar... But I'm coming to the conclusion that:

1) 125 Amps is plenty and

2) I don't think that the 140 Amp Caddy Alternator will physically attach..

I'm also betting that the ignition switch on this car might be toast... as she has intermittent start up problems.

caddy.jpg

Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac,

I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back

ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide

Greg

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Greg,

Check the connections to the neutral start switch - I had an intermittent no-start problem with my winter Buick and the connections were badly corroded. Once I cleaned them, the problem was solved.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Greg,

Check the connections to the neutral start switch - I had an intermittent no-start problem with my winter Buick and the connections were badly corroded. Once I cleaned them, the problem was solved.

Sorry for what is about to be a dumb question... but by neutral start switch... do you mean the transmission position switch?

caddy.jpg

Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac,

I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back

ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide

Greg

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Greg,

Check the connections to the neutral start switch - I had an intermittent no-start problem with my winter Buick and the connections were badly corroded. Once I cleaned them, the problem was solved.

Sorry for what is about to be a dumb question... but by neutral start switch... do you mean the transmission position switch?

Yes - it is mounted on top of the trans near the shift cable connection point.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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OynxSTS,

Instead of trying to retrofit a Cadillac V8 alternator to the Intrigue V6 (which may work, though I am very doubtful), please first read the following GM technical service bulletin (TSB), which I think applies to the symptoms you are experiencing. If your Intrigue falls within the VIN range described below, you may be able to fix the problem by replacing the alternator with the appropriate service part. I do know from secondhand experience that this TSB solution is effective; my mother's friend's daughter owns an Intrigue that was experiencing these symptoms, and replacing the alternator per the TSB (which I recommended she bring to the dealership's attention) fixed the problem.

Good luck!

(Note: The actual TSB document contains two figures embedded within the generator remove/replace instructions, but they did not copy directly; in the interest of simplicity, I elected to leave them out and delete the references to them in the instructional text.)

Subject: Headlamps/Interior Lights Dim Intermittently in Cold Weather (Replace Generator) #01-06-03-001A - (04/11/2002)

Models: 1999-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 3.5L V6 Engine (VIN H - RPO LX5)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add VIN breakpoints and to include information on 2001-2002 vehicles which may exhibit a similar condition. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-03-001 (Section 06 - Engine).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition

Important: Short term voltage drops (flickers/fluctuations of lights) may occur whenever high demands are placed on the vehicle's electrical system. This is considered a normal generator output characteristic and a repair may not be necessary.

Some owners of the 1999-2001 model year Oldsmobile Intrigue built prior to VIN breakpoint 1F237068 may comment on an intermittent condition where the headlamps or interior lights may dim intermittently. This condition may also be noted in the blower speed slowing or changing pitch intermittently. Some 2001-2002 model year vehicles built after the VIN breakpoint may exhibit a similar condition.

Cause

On 1999-2001 vehicles built before the VIN breakpoint, this condition may be caused by intermittent low voltage. Transient engine vibrations may induce the generator to experience field discontinuity. This state results in a voltage spike that causes the voltage regulator to reset. During this period, the electrical system drops to battery voltage.

On 2001-2002 vehicles built after the VIN breakpoint, the voltage drop may be due to the electric AIR (Air Injector Reactor) pump cycling. This electric pump causes a large current draw when it starts.

Important: At no time during the above conditions will the headlamps go out.

Correction

On 1999-2001 vehicles built before the VIN breakpoint, replace the generator with a revised generator, P/N 10464469, that has circuitry to inhibit the voltage regulator reset condition. Use the procedure below to replace the generator.

On 2001-2002 models built after the VIN breakpoint, do not attempt any repair to the vehicle. This is a normal condition of the vehicle and does not indicate the need for service. If the customer requires reassurance that this is a normal condition, please refer to the AIR pump demonstration section below.

Important: 2000 model year California and Northeast states emission equipped vehicles and all 2001 Intrigues are equipped with the electric AIR pump. After generator replacement, these vehicles may still exhibit very short dips and/or headlamp dimming due to the AIR pump cycling. Refer to DTC P0410 in the Engine Controls sub-section. If the generator has been replaced, any short term headlamp dip should be considered normal. If the customer returns a vehicle that has been corrected with a generator replacement, you may reassure the customer by demonstrating the condition. Refer to the AIR pump demonstration section below.

Open the hood and install fender covers.

Remove the right front fender brace.

Disconnect the negative and positive battery cables.

Remove the underhood electrical center from the strut tower and reposition the electrical center.

Remove the engine mount strut bracket.

Remove the main electrical connector to the cooling fans and the bolts retaining the cooling fan assembly.

Important: When removing the battery, do no tip it more than 40 degrees towards its sides.

Remove the battery hold down bolt and remove the battery.

Remove the bolts retaining the battery tray and remove the tray.

Disconnect the IAT air tube.

Remove the upper air filter housing and filter element.

Remove the air filter housing assembly screws. Reposition the PCM and remove the air box.

Disconnect the cooling fan assembly cross-car wire harness clips and reposition it, allowing the cooling fans to be lifted out of the vehicle. Remove the fan assembly.

The radiator drain will now be accessible from the engine compartment. Place a catch pan under the vehicle.

Drain the coolant.

Disconnect the electrical connector from generator.

Reposition the protective boot to access the generator output BAT terminal nut.

Remove the generator output BAT terminal nut and reposition the battery positive lead.

Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt.

Remove the bolts from the thermostat housing and remove the housing.

Important: Even with the radiator drain open and the coolant recovery bottle cap off, a considerable amount of coolant will remain in the engine block. Place a large recovery tray under the vehicle at the thermostat location to capture this additional coolant.

Remove the radiator to thermostat coolant hose.

Close the radiator drain valve.

Remove the idler pulley through-bolt.

Remove the two remaining generator retaining bolts and remove the generator from the vehicle.

Clean the mating surface on the engine block.

Install the new generator with the two bolts.

Install the idler pulley with one bolt.

Tighten the generator and the idler pulley bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

Notice: You must coat the threads of the thermostat housing bolts with Pipe Sealant, GM P/N 12346004 (in Canadian, P/N 10953480) or the equivalent. Coolant may walk up the threads creating a coolant leak if the sealer is not applied.

Install the thermostat housing and bolts. Inspect the reusable gasket when reinstalling the housing. If any imperfection is shown on the O-ring gasket, replace it with a new one. Coat the threads of the bolts with pipe sealant, GM P/N 12346004 (in Canada, P/N 10953480) or the equivalent.

Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

Install the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing.

Install the serpentine accessory drive belt.

Connect the electrical harness to the generator.

Install the battery positive lead and the nut to the generator.

Tighten the nut to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

Reposition the BAT terminal nut protective boot.

Install the cooling fans and secure with the bolts.

Tighten

• Tighten the radiator bracket bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

• Tighten the cooling fan shroud bolts to 6 N·m (53 lb in).

Connect the cross-car wiring harness clips and attach to the top of the radiator. Connect one engine cooling fan electrical connector.

Install the air filter housing assembly and install the PCM to the air box.

Install the upper air filter housing and the filter element.

Install the battery tray and the bolts.

Install the battery.

Install the battery hold-down bolt.

Install the engine mount strut bracket.

Install the front right fender brace.

Connect the positive and the negative battery cables.

Tighten the negative and the positive battery terminal bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Refill the system with engine coolant.

Bleed the cooling system. Refer to Bleeding the Cooling System in the Engine Cooling sub-section in the Service Manual.

Remove the fender covers and close the hood.

AIR Pump Demonstration

Using the Tech 2® Diagnostic scan tool, connect the DLC connector to the vehicle and establish communications.

After entering the vehicle information, select the Powertrain option.

Select the Special Functions menu.

Select Engine Output Controls.

Select AIR System.

From this screen you may command the AIR pump on and off. Turn the headlamps on. You will now be able to verify and demonstrate this normal operation to your customer.

Exit the Tech 2® and disconnect the DLC connector.

Parts Information

Part Number Description

12553364 Seal, Thermostat Housing

10464469 Generator Assembly

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

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Hey RDWRIOR, do you know if this is normal on Caddy's or is it an indication of a problem. I have noticed a momentary headlight dim about 10 min. into a trip. Volts seem normal and no DTC's. I pretty much ignor it. If it is normal, can you explain what is causing it and give a little insight.

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Ranger,

Based on the very limited information in your description of the headlamps dimming symptom, it is difficult for me to make even a good educated guess as to the cause. Nonetheless, I suspect it is the result of the effect of the alternator's "load response control" when an electrical load switches on, and thus, can be considered normal. If the root cause was something more serious, I think that the symptoms would occur more often, or be associated with other events related to where/when/how you are driving the vehicle, forming a pattern that would be more recognizable. Having read your posts, and traded some with you over the past few years, you strike me as the sort of person who would notice these sort of things and would have mentioned them in your post. Since you didn't do that, I really think that what you have noticed is a benign symptom, and nothing to be concerned about, especially if you have already been "living with it" for a while. However, if the pattern starts to change, then it may be a sign of a real problem that is growing worse, so it would be prudent for you to continue to monitor the situation -- just don't be alarmed, yet.

Good luck!

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