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    2003 STS

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  1. I'm not aware of any compatible aftermarket CD changer, although there may be one. However, is there any reason why you don't want to use a factory-style changer? Your car may already be wired for one, which makes for a plug-and-play installation. This subject has been covered in many previous posts, which you should be able to find by searching the archives.
  2. spanky11, For 2002+ Sevilles and Devilles there was a change in the protocol for the communication between the radio and the CD changer. Thus, the CD changer from an '00 - '01 Deville will not function in an '02 - '05 Deville (or vice versa); the hardware and software are incompatible. However, the installation of the CD changer was the same for all '00 - '05 Devilles. So, if you do buy the '04 DTS, and you can acquire a newer CD changer, you will be able to install it in exactly the same way as you did for your '00 DHS. Good luck!
  3. weephee, If you are in a "spendy" mood ($468.00 list price), and want what seems (to me, anyway) to be the very best torque wrench available, then consider this one from Snap-on: www.torqueinlesstime.com What I really like about this wrench is that it combines the torque and angle features in one tool, along with the simplicity of digital controls. Good luck!
  4. caddypete, For the '00 - '05 generation of Deville models, there were three "trim" levels: Deville, DHS, and DTS. The Deville was the basic model, and the standard interior equipment included the digital instrument cluster and column-mounted shifter. The DHS used the analog cluster, but also the column shifter. The DTS used the analog cluster and console-mounted shifter as standard equipment. In summary, I think that if you limit your search to vehicles that were badged as a 'DTS' (at least, at the factory), then you will be satisfied with the interior equipment. Good luck finding a new (used) car!
  5. Greg, Per your request, I inspected a Seville steering column in order to understand the orientation of the pinch bolt relative to the steering wheel position. What I found is that heads of the pinch bolt and its nut are located in approximately the 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions when the steering wheel is in the "upright/straight ahead" position. (My references above to "clock positions" are from the perspective of the driver facing forward inside the vehicle.) It appears that the bolt and nut can be attached from either side, so I am uncertain which fastener head will be the one you need to loosen. My advice would be to try using your 13 mm socket wrench on either side -- it will fit only one side, which will be the nut. If, in your vehicle, the nut is at an awkward angle for removal, you should be able to turn the steering wheel to place the nut in a better position. There is no reason why the column's steering shaft is required to be in the upright/straight ahead orientation when you remove the column. The end of the I-shaft is keyed so that it will only fit the end of the column shaft in one way, so you should not have a problem with an improper steering wheel angle after you reassemble everything, provided that you heed my previously posted advice (above) regarding the "center position" for the air bag clock spring coil. Good luck!
  6. I have never worked with the window regulators in the Deville, but last week I was performing some testing in a '07 DTS, which involved changing the window motors in the front and rear passenger doors, and this required removing/reinstalling the window regulators. I think that it is a fair assumption that the DTS doors systems are very similar, if not identical, to those in your Deville, so I think that the following advice pertains to your situation. I suspect that the large piece of styrofoam that you describe is installed in the lower rear corner of the door. This should not get in the way of removing the regulator. Once the regulator is separated from the glass, lower the "sash bar" to a point on the track where it is approximately even with the motor's output shaft. Then, separate the regulator from the door structure and disconnect the motor wiring. Tilt the regulator at an angle and push the lower end of the regulator as far as possible into the lower front corner of the door cavity. Then, rotate the upper end of the regulator down and out through the opening in the door; it helps to grasp the cable sheaths and pull them in tight to the steel track so that they fit easily through the opening. Repeat these steps in reverse order to reinstall the regulator. I suggest that you wear some disposable gloves while doing this work to prevent your hands from getting scraped and from getting greasy -- the regulator track is coated with grease! Good luck! Please let us know how this all turns out for you.
  7. All, Greg ('OynxSTS' ) and I have exchanged some PM messages regarding techniques for removing the pinch bolt at the base of the steering column, and I provided some advice based on my experience. Greg hasn't performed the work yet, but we thought it might be useful to include some of the discussion points here so that everyone may benefit from the knowledge. The clear rubber boot which surrounds the steering intermediate shaft (I-shaft), and which snaps onto the base of the column, is not what actually covers the pinch bolt that needs to be removed by Greg. The bolt is covered by a circular, black plastic shroud that snaps onto the angle sensor that Greg needs to change; the upper "lip" of the clear rubber boot snaps onto this shroud, so simply prying down on the clear part will not expose the pinch bolt. The black shroud is snapped in place onto the angle sensor with three "tabs" equally spaced around the outer circumference of the shroud; these can be loosened with a flat balded tool. When the shroud is loose, it can be forced down, into the upper opening of the clear rubber boot, exposing the pinch bolt. Some additional advice: Remove the four other fasteners that support the steering column and "drop" it onto the driver seat; this may help access the pinch bolt. Try using a heat gun or hair dryer to carefully heat the clear rubber boot and make it more flexible. When the pinch bolt is finally exposed, keep in mind that the fastener you are actually loosening is a nut; when it is removed, the bolt will slide out the other side of the shaft, and then the column will finally separate from the I-shaft. The socket/wrench head will only fit on the head of the nut. The head of the bolt is "staked" to a small anti-rotation bracket shaped like the letter 'L'; this prevents the socket from fitting on it. The purpose of the prominent warning regarding the locking of the steering column is to prevent rotation of the column after its removal from the vehicle; this is meant to prevent getting the "clock spring coil" for the steering wheel air bag off of its center position. If you are careful, this should not be a problem. If you are unsure how many turns off center the column shaft may be after it was separated from the I-shaft, then just turn it all the way to one side until it stops, then turn it fully the other way until it stops again, counting the number of rotations from stop to stop; this defines the "end points" for the clock spring coil. Then divide the number of turns in half and turn it back from the end point by that number of turns, and it will be "centered" again.
  8. Bruce, Actually, the 255 hp 2.8L turbocharged V6 engine referred to in the Edmunds article is the same one that became available in the Saab 9-3 a year ago. (I think everyone here knows that that 9-3 is the basis for the BLS, and that they are assembled in the same factory in Sweden.) The 210 hp engine reference is to the "high output" turbo inline four cylinder (L4) engine, also used in the 9-3, and -- apparently -- until now the most uplevel engine available in the BLS; for both vehicles there are also available a "base" 175 hp turbo L4, and a 1.9L TDI L4 diesel. Anyway, I just wanted to point out that the 210 hp vs. 255 hp comparison is not really meaningful because the engines are completely different, i.e., they are not even the same family of engines. (I had assumed that the 2.8L turbo V6 became available in the BLS at the same time it became available in the 9-3, but I guess that was not the case.) I have not driven the BLS, but I did inspect one that was parked in the development fleet parking lot where I work. I thought it was a very sharp-looking vehicle! I especially liked the interior, as compared to the 9-3. I have driven the 9-3 (with the 210 hp turbo L4), and I like it too, but I thought that the layout for some of the Saab's audio system switches (of which there are many) could be improved -- I did not entirely agree with the logic of the placement of some of the controls. (I know that many auto journalists ave criticized this aspect of the 9-3, too.)
  9. Chris, I am going to contradict Ranger somewhat. . . (No offense Larry. ) I will refer you to the following archived thread (from late 2004), which also touched on this subject of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that have a 'U' prefix. Please read my post in that thread from Dec. 7, 2004. In summary: these codes may appear as "history" from time to time, but should not concern you unless you are experiencing actual symptoms of a problem. Can some codes be ignored? (Archived thread from Dec. 2004)
  10. Chris, My own '03 Seville has had its intermediate shaft replaced once (under warranty) at approx. 31k miles for the clunking problem, but the problem has returned (at approx. 47k). Apparently this type of problem has plagued a number of GM vehicles for the past several model years. (My brother's '04 Tahoe, and my father' '05 Suburban have had the same problem.) When I first noticed it in my Seville years ago, I found that there was a GM technical service bulletin (TSB) related to problem; it advised the dealership to remove the I-shaft and apply a grease to the splined section, then reinstall the shaft. Later, when I finally got around to having the problem repaired at my local dealership (along with a few other small issues), I found that a newer TSB had been issued, advising outright replacement of the I-shaft with a new part. I provided a copy of this TSB to the dealer, and that is the work that was performed. When I started to notice the symptoms returning, I found that the "replacement" TSB had been superseded by another one only advising the "remove/lubricate/replace" procedure. The problem is getting pretty annoying now, so I really need to get it fixed again, especially before the original warranty coverage ends. Reading this thread prompted me to review the latest GM TSB information. I found one document from April '06, informing dealers that they were restricted from ordering new I-shafts without special approval, since GM had determined that many were being replaced when they should be lubricated. However, I also found another, even more recent TSB (from May '06), specifically for a few GM models, including the Seville, which specifies replacement with a newer part; the part number is different from the one for the last replacement part that was installed in my Seville. Hopefully, this new part is a permanent fix! I have copied the text of the latest TSB below. I would suggest that you make sure that this is the work that is performed on your car. Good luck! Tell us how this situation turns out for you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front of Vehicle During Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Replace Intermediate Shaft) #06-02-35-010 - (05/09/2006) Models: 2001-2004 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to the above listed vehicles. All other cars with a similar condition should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001G. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel. Cause This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise. Diagnostic Tip Important: This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern. Engineering Investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and replaced. The investigations shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may stroke and/or cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft grease temporarily may eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may return. Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure below: Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle. Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction. Correction Important: The replacement steering intermediate shaft is physically different in appearance than the original. However, the vehicle's ride performance will not be affected. Replace the original concentric style steering shaft with P/N 26068295, a Double "D" design. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in SI. Parts Information Part Number Description Qty 26068295 Shaft, Intermediate Shaft, Steering 1 Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: Labor Operation Description Labor Time E7700 Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  11. Poobah, This is the follow-up post that I promised. I tried out my Tech 2 in my '03 Seville, and I confirmed what Dave Logan stated in his own post (above) -- it is possible for the MSM and TTM to be erased from the IPC diagnostic mode, so the IPC will not attempt to display codes for them. Any GM dealership or other service provider with an up-to-date Tech 2 should be able to perform this change in 10 minutes, at most. The change function is found in the "Optional Modules" feature under the "Special Functions" submenu, under "Body" and "Instrument Panel Cluster". (Anyone with a little experience using the Tech 2 and the ability to read the screen prompts should be able to perform this work.) I have no idea what the cost to you might be to have this work performed. A generous dealer might even be willing to do the work for free if you are a good customer ("good will"), as little time is required. On the other hand, I suppose a small fee would be reasonable. However, if a shop tells you that the labor time is being rounded up to anything more than a half hour (at $60+ per hour), then you are being robbed! You'll have to decide for yourself how important it is for you to make this change. I tend to agree with Logan that it is something that can be ignored. BTW - Although I have ready access to a Tech 2 through my job at GM, I do not use it regularly. Logan has reason to use it routinely in his business, so I would generally defer to him regarding the tool's capabilities. (As we saw in this case, he knew what the Tech 2 could do when I initially assumed it was not possible.)
  12. All, This is a follow-up to my previous post (above). Oldgamer replied to my inquiries via PM. However, I thought that his reply, and my comments, should be shared with the rest of the members in this thread. I didn't take any of Oldgamer's statements to be "private" so I assume he does not mind me quoting him here. If I'm mistaken, then I apologize in advance.) This is Oldgamer's PM message back to me: Hi RDWRIOR, Well, you wanted to know how i made my decision, so I'll try to give you the answer. At first, I even was thinking about buying Caddy a bit newer than mine, let say 1999-2002. When I start research I found that most of them already have mileage like mine (mine was 94, I bought it in 98, 47K on a odometer and made only ~25K, so mine was relatively a new car, mileage speaking, only 71K total) or more. I don't really drive a lot as you see. Logically I don't need a big luxury car. I started looking for something like mid size family sedan. Sure, I was under influence that Honda or Toyota are very reliable cars. I am not saying that it is not true. I decided to know it myself. Honestly, I don't know much about mid size American cars. Once I rented a small car, Ford Escort (I was in Orlando, Florida) and I can't say I liked how it rides on a highway. Sure, we can't compare Caddy and something like that. I decided to buy V-6 at least. So, after bad experience with transmission (only after 71K) I thought: no, I don't want to buy a car with huge depreciation and bad reliability. Transmission should not broke after 71K. Worse, the guy who rebuild transmission did a poor job, so it didn't make even 200 miles after. He fixed again. Then, as I wrote, I notice computer message about extensive slippage. I show car to mechanic but he did nothing and warranty he gave me (12 month) was close to the end. I understood that it's time. I can't risk another $2000 for a car which cost around $3500. That experience I think mostly made my decision. Best regards, Mike (Oldgamer) I guess that I would summarize Oldgamer's decision process as follows: A negative experience regarding long-term reliability of the previous vehicle focused his mind on the desire for reliability in a new car. Reliability became the most important factor in his purchase decision. Since Honda and Toyota has earned (fairly) some of the very best reputations for reliability, he basically did not consider any other brands. He did not feel that he had been "betrayed" by GM and would never consider another GM vehicle, it was just that he perceived the Honda to have the least likelihood of quality problems. (Oldgamer, if my interpretation is inaccurate, please feel free to reply here with additional comments.) Assuming that my interpretation is correct, I would say that the decision rationale is logical, even if I disagree with it, and am disappointed in the outcome. I also suppose that this is typical of a lot of American car buyers, and is another example of the lingering effects of the significant vehicle quality disparities that once existed between the import brands and the domestic Big Three brands. Those days are long over, as any number of completely objective studies have shown. Nonetheless, attitudes and assumptions linger in the marketplace, and GM, Ford and Chrysler are still dealing with the negative perceptions. The good news is that the newer products are certainly capable of dispelling those negative perceptions. The bad news is that it is probably still going to take a long time to overturn those bad perceptions, as good as our new products may be. I do worry that the effort may be too late.
  13. Poobah, MSM = Memory Seat Module TTM = Tilt and Telescope Module (Steering Column) You stated that your (base) Deville model lacks the MSM feature; I assume that it also lacks the TTM feature. Is that true? If so, it explains why the IPC is reporting 'NO DATA' for these modules -- they are not physically present, so there are no reply messages on the serial data network to the DTC data requests sent from the IPC. (If either of these systems is indeed installed in your vehicle, then it is difficult for me to understand why there is no data reported from them.) If my original assumption is correct, then I also assume that your original base IPC never showed the MSM or TTM in the list of modules during the DTC diagnostic check mode. I think that the firmware for the base/digital IPC does not include data request messages for the MSM and TTM because it was always assumed that this IPC type would be installed (at the GM factory) only in vehicles that lacked these features. Conversely, the firmware for the uplevel/analog IPC always includes messages for the MSM and TTM because it was always assumed that this IPC type would be installed (again, at the GM factory) only in vehicles that had these features as standard content. I think that this explains the observations that you have made. I really doubt that there is any practical way to disable this in the analog IPC, although I will check with my Tech 2 in my '03 Seville, which uses the same analog IPC as you now have. I will follow-up with another post to this thread if I find anything useful in the Tech 2 programming options, but my advice would be to learn to live with this minor annoyance.
  14. Oldgamer, Somewhat echoing what Kevin said in his post (above), I'm disappointed that you chose to replace your Cadillac with a Honda. I can understand your desire to replace an older vehicle (with expensive older vehicle reliability issues) with a brand new one (with a new, full warranty). Also, I can understand how you might not be able to spend the amount of money needed to replace the '94 Seville with its brand-new Cadillac equivalent (i.e., DTS -- $43k+). But if you were in the market for a car like the Accord, what were the reasons for you to actually buy the Accord, as opposed to a similar GM, Ford, or Chrysler product? I'm not posing the question in a combative sense -- I'm genuinely interested to know why you found the Accord a better vehicle (or value), as opposed to its "domestic" competitors. Did you get a really special deal on the Accord? Did you consider the Honda and/or Accord brand reputations to be stronger? Did you consider (or test drive) any other vehicles before you purchased the Accord? Please help me understand your purchase decision. I suppose that it's a moot point now, but if you had asked me for my recommendations for a new, mid-size, FWD sedan, I would have immediately suggested cross-shopping the Impala, Grand Prix, and LaCrosse. These are all very good vehicles, excellent values, especially the Impala. Furthermore, for a relatively small price premium to can get FWD V8 power in the Impala SS or Grand Prix GXP. These are cars that definitely outperform our FWD V8 Cadillacs in acceleration! If vehicle storage space wasn't a problem for me, I'd buy a GXP tomorrow, just to have as an "extra" vehicle -- I like it that much! Plus, if you had purchased a MY 2007 GM product, you would have received the new extended powertrain warranty coverage, much longer than the Honda's.
  15. winterset, I'm quite sure that the cornering lights in your vehicle are controlled through mechanical switch contacts in the turn signal switch assembly. Thus, the only way to keep them illuminated at all times would require modifying the vehicle's wiring; it cannot be done through "calibration" settings accessible via the onboard diagnostics. Most of the latest GM vehicle models now feature direct electronic control of all exterior lamps. So, theoretically, a calibration setting could be made to activate or deactivate any lamp inadvertently. With that stated, I doubt that any software set has been created that would allow such a setting, except as a temporary lamp diagnostic function using a Tech 2 scanner tool.