Poobah Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 I need new brake pads and the old wallet isn't as fat as I wish it was. I'm thinking about replacing the pads myself. I haven't replaced pads on disk brakes before. I am capable of doing nearly any mechanical work and I have a Factory Service Manual but I don't want to get started on something that is liable to turn into a bucket of snakes. Is there anything to watch out for or is it a fairly simple, by the book project? Anything to watch out for? Thanks in advance for any advice. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Reading further into the service manual, it says to compress the piston with a C-clamp. Once compresed, does the piston stay bottomed out? In other words, once the piston is compressed, can the C-clamp be removed leaving the piston in the bottomed out position or will the piston come back out of the bore? Thanks Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Toughest part might be getting the bolts out of the calipers. A 1/2" breaker bar may be needed to loosen them if they have been in for a while. Make sure you use jack stands! Check the rotors for excessive wear or scoring. If they are OK, no turning is needed. Don't forget to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder as the caliper pistons are pushed back to accept the new pads. Makes a mess on the concrete if you forget. When finished, step on the brake pedal to make sure the calipers move back to "ready" position. You seat the new pads by making a dozen or so hard stops. Check the rear pads if they have not been examined in the last 50K miles. If you have a Helms manual it will cover this procedure in good detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Hi there! Since you´re capable of doing other stuff and have the manual, just go for it. It is as simple it can be. Use a c-clamp to retract the front calipher pistons back (not necessary but makes it really easy). Retract the back calipher pistons by turning them clockvise (or anti? don´t remember) I always compress and extend the pistons (extend by pumping the brake pedal) to make them move freely, works great, but be sure not pressing the piston out. Just put a piece of a steel bar and the old pads between the flanges in the calipher to avoid it. Another tip is to use a syringe filled with brake fluid and inject it through the sealing around the piston to loosen up rust etc. The last tip may be overkill, the only time I use it is when serving Volvo brakes because they always seems to stick. Make sure the guidings moves freely and that the new pads can move along their supporting faces. Lubricate those surfaces with copper grease or some other high temperature resistant lubricating compound. I´ve found that copper grease puts up well against water and to some extent salt. Check the discs for tearing and uneven wear. Reguards Jan Check the rear pads if they have not been examined in the last 50K miles. Easy on the pedals? I´m happy if mine lasts 20K miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 I need new brake pads and the old wallet isn't as fat as I wish it was. I'm thinking about replacing the pads myself. I haven't replaced pads on disk brakes before. I am capable of doing nearly any mechanical work and I have a Factory Service Manual but I don't want to get started on something that is liable to turn into a bucket of snakes. Is there anything to watch out for or is it a fairly simple, by the book project? Anything to watch out for? Thanks in advance for any advice. The C Clamp is just to push the piston in. Once its in, it won't pop back out - unless you press the brake pedal...... If you're also doing the rears, be sure to use a good 6-point socket on the caliper bolts. Those can be TIGHT, and the heads are easily rounded. Be sure to clean and lube up the sliders too, using the proper brake grease. Overall, the job is pretty straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spurlee Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 As others have said, it's an easy job. I replaced my rotors as well when I did mine. It took another 30 seconds to put the new one on the hub. They're not very expensive, especially considering all the money you just saved by doing it yourself. Scott 1996 El Dorado 2006 STS 2000 Corvette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 i would go with cermic pads . do to the brake dust issue and i think that they do last a little longer. michael s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Ditto on the ceramic pads. You get what you pay for. I've tried cheap to expensive and the higher cost ceramics win my vote with repect to life and visible dust on the rims. Jan - I guess I drive too easy - but then again, most of my travel is on the interstate. All of my cars go through front pads at about 30K - 35K. Rear brakes don't typically need changing until the second set of pads wear out. Ditto on the ceramic pads. You get what you pay for. I've tried cheap to expensive and the higher cost ceramics win my vote with repect to life and visible dust on the rims. Jan - I guess I drive too easy - but then again, most of my travel is on the interstate. All of my cars go through front pads at about 30K - 35K. Rear brakes don't typically need changing until the second set of pads wear out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Fenwick Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Do one side at a time, so you can see how things go back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Do one side at a time, so you can see how things go back together. Excellent advice! Thanks to all for your help. I think I'll give it a go. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted March 11, 2006 Report Share Posted March 11, 2006 I also recommend opening the bleeder valve or at a minimum removing or loosening the brake fluid reservior cap/cover when pushing the pistons back in. You don't need to overpressure the vessel, even though it does have a small vent. If a lot of fluid has been added over the years, the reservoir can overflow. The fluid makes a pretty good paint remover if you follow what I mean. Some people don't realize that, on disc brakes, not all the fluid is returned to the reservoir when you let off the pedal, if no fluid is added over the life of the pads, the amount that the fluid level is down is a good indication of the amount of pad wear. After the change, be very mindful of hot rotors after driving. I'm not referring to the break in period, but after that is finished and during normal driving thereafter. A hot rotor after a pad change can occur if the piston gets fouled with rust upon pushing it back with the c-clamps. Once you are satisfied that the calipers are working correctly and not stuck, I'd reccomend changing the brake fluid. This sounds pretty scary, but is not really hard. You can do it by yourself, and it takes a little time, but it's worth it. The best method I have ever used is the "gravity" method, learned on this board a couple of years ago. You need to get some small diameter, clear plastic tubing from Lowe's. The tubing should be a snug fit over the tip of the bleeder valve. slip one end of the tubing over the valve nipple, and place the other end into a small glass jar containg enough new brake fluid to cover the end of the hose. The glass jar should be on the garage floor, lower than the bleeder valve and MUCH lower than the reservoir. Remove the lid from the reservoir and let gravity move the old fluid out of the system and into the jar. Keep adding new fluid to the reservoir and be careful to never let it go empty, which will introduce air into the system. Air is very bad in a brake system. I usually start this project out with making sure that I have the EXACT fluid for the system, and by cleaning the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster or syphon tube. Once again, be very careful not to let air or dirt of any kind (including lint from a rag) into the bottom openings of the reservoir. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 I did my front brakes today and the job went off without a hitch. Thanks to all who offered advice. I just got back from a test drive with lots of stops to seat the new pads. The brakes work great! Last time I had the brakes done, I had all four done so I guess the rears should be good for a little longer. I'll take a good look at them next chance I get. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Is it a rule of thumb on the caddy too that for every 2 times you change the front you change the back. if you had both changed the last time, then you are good for another 30k on the backs. I guess it doesn't hurt to inspect however. While you have it off, it may be a good idea to clean the moving parts with a can of brake cleaner. ($1.99) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 I would bleed them however Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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