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Replace brake line


up2ng

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My 97 Deville popped its drivers rear brake line about 5 inches from the end of its run from the front of the car. It was rubbing against the body right where it starts to go towards the front, so I brought it in (i have never been good with making lines, fittings, etc.) I just spoke with the mech. and he said "It needs aluminum line and about 3 hours to do, should come out to around $315 dollars could be less", my thought was this is too much.

what do you guys think ?

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$315!!!!! Thats is waaay too much. If you do not mind getting dirty you can do it yourself fairly easy with minimal tools. Measure the line and buy stock length tubing at the local parts store with the ends already on and bend it with your hands to the same configuration as the old one. If you have a tube bender you could do a little better job. If you need an excuse to buy a flare tool, get it and cut bend and flare your own ends. As far as aluminum goes, that does not sound right. You could probably have all of the lines done at a local shop for $100-200. Walk, No, Run Away.

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The metal lines use an ISO or "bubble" flare, not the conventional double wall flare. You will need a special flaring tool for this.

Another possibility is buying a length of brake line with the bubble flare and then use a compression fitting to join it to the existing brake line.

$315 to replace one brake line is a total ripoff....

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Just for a point of reference, my 96 Deville's brake line that goes from rear caliper to rear caliper across the car is rusted really badly. In the spring I plan to replace it. I am going to cut it at the caliper and use a socket to remove the fittings. I have a local auto parts store that can computer bend me a new stainless steel or steel tubing with bubble flares, and I plan to use them. If stainless is not much, I will replace with stainless.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Just for a point of reference, my 96 Deville's brake line that goes from rear caliper to rear caliper across the car is rusted really badly. In the spring I plan to replace it. I am going to cut it at the caliper and use a socket to remove the fittings. I have a local auto parts store that can computer bend me a new stainless steel or steel tubing with bubble flares, and I plan to use them. If stainless is not much, I will replace with stainless.

Wow! I never heard of the computer bend. It will save time for sure. Do not be afraid of cutting and flairng, that's not a big deal if you have the tool. I have done that when I fixed the hydraulic modulator (ABS unit).

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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The only problem is that I have tools for a standard flare, I don't have the bubble flare tool. I could buy one obviously but hell, if they are going to computer bend the tubing for me AND bubble flare it.... it's a beautiful thing...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The only problem is that I have tools for a standard flare, I don't have the bubble flare tool. I could buy one obviously but hell, if they are going to computer bend the tubing for me AND bubble flare it.... it's a beautiful thing...

Sure, let them do it! I am just saying it is not a big deal if you have to do it yourself.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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