winterset Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 I am on a roll repairing little things on my car, but i'm afraid i cant get passed fixing something with the front end. A few months back, i thougt new tires fixed it, but that thud every time i hit bumps is back. I suspect it's the upper strut mount. I never worked o struts before, and need some guidance. Can this be changed without taking the spring apart, or with special tools? I think its the strut mount bering at the top that goes bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 ...I suspect it's the upper strut mount....Can this be changed without taking the spring apart No. The strut assembly must be removed from the car and the spring removed from the strut to replace the strut mount (thrust bearing). A spring compressor is required. Many folks are not comfortable using aftermarket spring compressors because a compressed suspension spring is a loaded cannon. Take your parts to a well equipped shop and they will do the mount replacement for a reasonable labor charge. You "might be able" to confirm or deny failed mounts by supporting the front end on jack stands and prying up on the bottom of the tire to see if you can 'sort of' duplicate the noise. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks jim. I rock the car at the passenger fender, and i see play at the top between the strut bushing housing, and the bushing as i rock the car up and down. I sat in the car, and had my son rock the car and i hear the clunk/thump noise. I will investigate how ill do this within the next few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 I am stuck doing the job now. Everything is off, but I don't know how to remove that black line that is connected to a cylinder protrusion on the front strut. I don't know if that is supposed to pull off, slide off or what. I don't know if it is an air line, or an electrical line. I don't want to break anything. Also, to bring the strut to a shop to puta new mount on - what do i look for in the phone book? Any mechanic? Or how do i find a machine shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 The black line....is it in the picture? Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Its not in the picture. Its. The line that is connected to only the strut, then is goes into the engine compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 I am stuck doing the job now. Everything is off, but I don't know how to remove that black line that is connected to a cylinder protrusion on the front strut. I don't know if that is supposed to pull off, slide off or what. I don't know if it is an air line, or an electrical line. I don't want to break anything. That 'line' comes out of a cylinder at the bottom inboard section, right? That is an electrical harness for each strut. Follow the harness and you will arrive at a place where the strut can be disconnected from the chassis wiring. Likely on the inboard surface of the engine cradle. A simple two pin connector. Also, to bring the strut to a shop to puta new mount on - what do i look for in the phone book? Any mechanic? Or how do i find a machine shop? Any shop that advertises alignment will be able to do that for you. Call around and ask. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Ok thanks. So that connector stays with the strut when i bring it to the shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Yes. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I decided i was comfortable with the spring compressors. I used 2 sets as insurance, and i had a heavy duty pipe clamp in the middle after the strut was out, as i compressed the spring further to get the strut back on as insurance too. Im not comfortable with the position of the strut vs. The spring. The thick rubber collar and bearing assembly on the old strut was all dried up and shrunk compared to the new Monroe mount. After i installed the new mount, and tightened everything up, the rubber mount on top and all sits on an angle. I dont remember it looking like this when i took it out. Also, is there any type of special position the springs and all have to be in when installing the strut to the spring? Also The old mount is market right, but the monroe says right or left. Is there any difference between the right and left strut mount? I have not yet installed it back on the car. Also the old strut piston gives resistance when i push it in or out. And wherever i stop, it stays there. Is that how it should be? I am a newbie with struts, as this is the first time working with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Not sure how the new mounts could be both right and left when the originals are handed. I usually mark the spring before taking it off the strut so I get it back in the same rotational position when re-installing it. If the strut rod stayed put when you depressed it and then took the tension off it, it was shot. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Pretty sure both L and R bearings are the same part. I also think both springs are the same part and are twisted in the same direction. There is some stagger in the mount to account for the spring . Look at the upper spring seat in the picture (I think pic is VW part). I also mark the spring with a paint pen to verify the basic position. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yes, even the delco had the same part number for left and right. I am also wondering if my 1996 strut is bahaving differently because it's electric. Maybe when i plug it in to the car, and power it on, it will behave differently? I am hopeing for a 2nd opinion. It definately stays where ever i move it to. It has 111k miles on it, and looks like new with no rust or damage anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I know several here soldered a resistor on aftermarket struts, but i understood that was done to fool the computer into sensing that the electric proportioning valve built into the strut to regulate force was still there. All the height sensors are separate units that are found in each wheel well. The external height sensors are constantly getting input from road force, and send electrical pulses to the struts to loosen or firm up. I am not sure how the active strut behaves when disconnected. Either way, i am going to put this back in the car as is. I had no driveability problems, just noise. If the noise is still there, i am thinking of getting a used unit with spring and all. I see them on ebay from low mileage cars for $80. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I know several here soldered a resistor on aftermarket struts, but i understood that was done to fool the computer into sensing that the electric proportioning valve built into the strut to regulate force was still there. All the height sensors are separate units that are found in each wheel well. The external height sensors are constantly getting input from road force, and send electrical pulses to the struts to loosen or firm up. I am not sure how the active strut behaves when disconnected. Either way, i am going to put this back in the car as is. I had no driveability problems, just noise. If the noise is still there, i am thinking of getting a used unit with spring and all. I see them on ebay from low mileage cars for $80. A shop should be able to help you get the spring in the correct orientation. As long as you have the new struts, I'd seek out a shop's help to get the spring in the correct orientation. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2014 A new strut mount didn't solve the noise, and it turned out to just be the stabilizer bar frame bushings. The hole was 2x the size of the new one, and the old one was egg shaped. Not sure how i missed that. Unfortunately, my stabilizier link end was either damaged by my removal for the strut job, and/or was on the brink of breaking. Anyhow, i just ordered an ac delco for $38 with free shipping. It'll be here next week. I will not use the car till then because i want to be 100% that the new noise i hear is coming from the loose link and not something going on with the strut. I could not tighten the sway link because the threads got messed up - along with the rubber having a tear, and the joint having a little play. So far the quick test drive proved the deep thumping is finally gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted December 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Part came, and it was not the correct part for the box. It didn't even fit. I checked the old part, and determined i was being too harsh about it. It is all fine. I just couldn't tighten it, and it was rattling. All i did is put a thick lock washer on the shaft, and tightened the bolt. It tightened up nicely, and the test drive verified all the noises in the suspension are resolved. I am glad because it's been mild in the northeast, and even in the garage, i dont like winter projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Part came, and it was not the correct part for the box. It didn't even fit. I checked the old part, and determined i was being too harsh about it. It is all fine. I just couldn't tighten it, and it was rattling. All i did is put a thick lock washer on the shaft, and tightened the bolt. It tightened up nicely, and the test drive verified all the noises in the suspension are resolved. I am glad because it's been mild in the northeast, and even in the garage, i dont like winter projects. Glad you got it all fixed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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