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Hope some one can help so im not chasing my tail. i have had a few codes that were coming up on a regular basis and now on all the time. abs c1248 and c1214. i beleive these are the start of my problems. was told by local caddy shop these are related to the traction control and ebs module. now winter just hit and dtc irc u1016 is coming up. my car will now get up to operating temp then all of a sudden heater will start blowing cold air. i can get hot air to come out of vents again by pressing the throttle and holding rpm's at 1200 or higher. im leaning towards a bad thermastat or maybe a vaccuum line that is leaking. not quite sure where to start. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. trying to solve myself as we all know what shops cost to get this type of work done. THANKS

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How much sealer is in the cooling system? Sounds like a clogged heater core to me.

The heater core on that car requires removal of the dash. Also...because of the shape of the heater core (very long tubes...both down hill into the car)...it's difficult if not impossible to flush out.

post-2-0-14676600-1415977055_thumb.jpg

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I thought, but could be mistaken that autozone sells a tool with a long neck that can reach and undo the clamps on both heater core hoses. Then all he would have to do is pull each hose off and flush it with a high pressure hose and blow each direction to clean the heater core? Just a thought! :fireman:

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Coolant looks clean and free form any additives. i have owned car for almost seven years and have not put any sealers in. i also personally know the previous 2 owners and this car was never driven in winter before i owned it. it was stored in a garage. should i try to flush coolant system before i rip into heater core. core change out looks like a real pain.

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I just got finish working on a 2000 seville which was over heating,,You should have 2 rubber hoses side by side. With a pair of wire pliers move the locking clamp to the rear and slide the hoses off. With a pressure hose blow the core out n both directions, then reconnect the hoses. That should take care of it. Is it wet inside the car on the floor? Codes History or current? Someone will most likely chime into help....

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Here is all the current codes. c1248, c1214, b0429, u1016, and the only moisture that i have noticed inside car on floor boards is snow from my shoes on the rubber mats i have down. my windows do not fog up instantly so i was kind of leaning away from the bad heater core. but i believe it still could be a clog. another thing i noticed this mourning is the heater was blowing hot while driving at 25mph. all of a sudden the heater fan speed changed with out me touching anything and cold air started to come out. again this is why i first mentiond a bad or cracked vacuum line that could possibly be controlling the air intake.

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I'm having the same problem with my 2007 DTS. Throws plenty of heat until I sit at a red light for a short time, then it starts throwing cold

air. Air temp will go back up once car is moving again!

Steve M.

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The old guys slipping! Warning light in the wife's 2000 Deville warned me coolant was low, it was and I topped it off. No warning lights on yet in the 2007 DTS, but I never thought to check that. Thanks for the reminder.

Pgh Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, So the coolant resivior was full every time i checked it. The fill level coolant sensor has been bad for some time now so this is why i consistantly check and know the level of the coolant. Before dismantaling anything to get to heater core lines or changing thermastat, i simply over filled resivoir by about half a quart. Now heater works like a champ. kinda feel dumb know. But i do appreciate all the suggestions. THANKS AGAIN ALL

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