Transmission Slipping..(Was Shift Solenoids)

[joeb]

I am not at dads house. This is used solenoid I got at junkyard. Have not tried to energize my solenoid yet. I used battery charger and solenoid barely clicks at 6v. It makes louder click at 12v. My orig solenoids had continuity but I did not apply voltage too them.

[Cadillac Jim]

Does the plunger move on the used solenoid when you click it at either 6 Volts or 12 Volts? Noting that can be really handy when looking at your old solenoids.

The reason that I said so quickly to try it at 5 Volts (6 Volts is OK) is that you cited a resistance of 2.3 Ohms, which would mean a current of 2.2 Amps at 5 Volts but 5.2 Amps at 12 Volts (5.7 Amps at 13.5 Volts, i.e. while driving down the road with a working alternator). That's 11 Watts at 5 Volts, which is workable in a transmission, but that would be 63 Watts at 12 Volts, which made me think that 12 Volts could blow the coil, particularly if left on it for any length of time - and itould be a very short time before the relay coil was damaged.

[joeb]

Its awkward to apply power from charger since I do not have small clips to attach to solenoid pins. The core in solenoid barely moves when energized. It's very hard to see small pin move when solenoid is assembled. I have new vb plate. $50. I can button up trans, add new fluid, $30 more and assume it will at least move like before. I do not expect it to work right since nasty fluid is an almost certain sign of shredded clutch material.

[Cadillac Jim]

If the plunger moves visibly, it is not liklely stuck. Can you move the plunger easily with you fingertips or perhaps a pair of needle-nose pliers (gently, of course)?

I would get a new radiator, particularly if it fails a pressure test, and flush the tranny with Dexron VI before I ran the car. If you have no confidence that this will work, you can save the time and money of the flush and go right to the rebuild option.

[joeb]

It's back together. Fresh fluid. Seems to slip in forward and reverse like before. I drove it around area for 15 min or so. Only feels like 1 forward gear. No shifts. No codes. I got 2.5 gal of stuff out of pan/side cover sump. Put in 2.25 estimated. I would say 1/2 qt difference? I think damage is done based on nasty fluid color

[Cadillac Jim]

How about the radiator?

[joeb]

I have not tried to pressurize the radiator and observe trans coolant port. Changing radiator is minor compared to trans swap.

[Cadillac Jim]

A radiator pressure check will reveal whether or not you have a coolant leak in the transmission cooler. If a leak in the transmission cooler caused the problem, you should fix that first to protect the new transmission.

[KHE]

You would scratch your head if u saw this fluid. It looks like baileys Irish cream. I Changd the condenser in June and took out the radiator. I collected the coolant of course but really only dripped a couple of tbs of trans fluid. I am not sure if I even topped off the trans fluid. It was a nice reddish color.

Sounds like coolant got into the transmission which would explain all the problems you're having with shifting/slipping. Ethylene glycol is very tough on transmission clutches.

Didn't you say your local trans. guy would rebuild it for $650? If he has a good reputation, that might be the route to go. Let him pull the trans. and rebuild it.

[joeb]

650 is carryout. Found shop that will Swap a used trans for 1k labor. U source used trans. That does not include radiator. Or pay more for full service rebuild.

[BodybyFisher]

I don't think I need to mention that but make SURE you get the correct tranny, the STS tranny has different gear ratios than the non-STS unit and the wrong unit will cause the PCM to set a code

[KHE]

If it were my car, I would seriously consider having the existing transaxle rebuilt. The problem with a used trans. is that you don't know if it has any problems until after it is installed in the car. If there are any problems, you need to pay to R&R the trans. again.

Also, unless you see the odometer on car that the used transmission comes out of, you can't be sure how many miles are on the transmission. I suppose you could look at the transmission serial number and match it up with a VIN from the car and run a Carfax or Autocheck.

[Cadillac Jim]

A new radiator is about $200 and replacing it is a DIY job, so if you have the radiator replaced at the same time the labor shouldn't be too much. If a shop will do a R&R of the transmission for $1K, ask them to throw in the radiator and see what they say.

I thoroughly agree with KHE about getting a rebuild or getting your tranny rebuilt.

[joeb]

getting closer

[joeb]

ta da

[BodybyFisher]

Nice, Joe are you doing this job?, I might have missed that above

[joeb]

Yes. I am doing it. Where are my friends when i need them? Car and trans are 100 miles from my house and tranny guy. I am leery about this $650 overhaul guy. There are a ton of avg mile trans at very reasonable prices around here. So many caddys are junked when motors leak.

[BodybyFisher]

Take some photos of the car with the engine being held up from the top and bottom if you can. Great job gotta give you a lot of credit for this. We started a Hall of Fame a while back and I never really developed it, but consider yourself in the Caddyinfo Hall of Fame!

Well not worthless!

[KHE]

Yes. I am doing it. Where are my friends when i need them? Car and trans are 100 miles from my house and tranny guy. I am leery about this $650 overhaul guy. There are a ton of avg mile trans at very reasonable prices around here. So many caddys are junked when motors leak.

WHen you do a big project like this, you find out who your real friends are...LOL.

Is the $650 price with you bringing him the transmission? The rebuild kit will run about $200 for that transmission. I'd meke sure the trans. guy has a good reputation and does good work.

[joeb]

I cannot reuse converter since it is full of bad fluid. I knew when I dropped subframe I would be able to reach all motor/ trans brackets with relative ease. Was pure hell getting them off when I pulled motor 5 yrs ago. Do they drop trans when a dealer does the bottom cas reseal? I do not see how they can remove engine bottom with trans installed?

[KHE]

I cannot reuse converter since it is full of bad fluid. I knew when I dropped subframe I would be able to reach all motor/ trans brackets with relative ease. Was pure hell getting them off when I pulled motor 5 yrs ago. Do they drop trans when a dealer does the bottom cas reseal? I do not see how they can remove engine bottom with trans installed?

Yes - the dealer will remove the transmission in order to access the the bottom portion of the engine.

[BodybyFisher]

I cannot reuse converter since it is full of bad fluid. I knew when I dropped subframe I would be able to reach all motor/ trans brackets with relative ease. Was pure hell getting them off when I pulled motor 5 yrs ago. Do they drop trans when a dealer does the bottom cas reseal? I do not see how they can remove engine bottom with trans installed?

You just confirmed what Kevin has always said regarding pulling the engine from the top vs dropping the frame witht the trans brackets statement, wow.... This is a strong arguement for dropping the carriage.

I would love to see how you supported the engine, please post photos. Not sure if you use a photo server like photobucket but if you don't it makes posting photos here a lot easier. I am impressed, and remember that you did a timesert job awhile back no?

[joeb]

I am home now. Car is still at dads house. Can grab some pics soon. Am going to source used trans. Afraid it's time to part with car. I am really searching for newer fixer upper. Now that I have dropped subframe I feel comfortable tearing into next project. Another caddy. Gulp!

[BodybyFisher]

Its harder to find an STS tranny, good luck finding one

[Cadillac Jim]

The only difference between the SLS/ESC and STS/ETC transmission us the final drive ratio. The differential can be switched out by pulling the right drive axle.