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01 DHS Starter Noise - engaged too long?


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Hope someone has some history on the 2001 DHS Starters?

I just bought a used 01 DHS yesterday. Northstar V8 with 135 000KMs.

Car runs beatiful - BUT - when starting the car - the starter consitently makes

a loud noise (like when engaging the starter when the engine is already running?).

Is their a trend with starter issues on this car - where they bind or stay engaged to long? TSB's??

Any insight would be appreciated - I am new to the Caddy world.

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DO NOT keep trying to start it before inspecting the starter DRIVE and FLYWHEEL, you do not want to DAMAGE the flywheel, the engine will need to come out if you do.

Pull the intake manifold and inspect the starter drive and flywheel, hopefully all you will need is the new starter, if you need one, www.rockauto.com ships....

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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My guess would be a failed pinion return spring. Not a common failure, but sounds like you are in for a new starter. The good news is it is not a hard job.

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not a hard job at all, but I must say under normal circumstances these starters are extremely reliable. Welcome to the forum

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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It could be the starter drive itself. Remove the intake and starter and take it to a local rebuilder. They will repair the starter for much less than a POS chain store starter.

The starters on these engines are very reliable and failures are rare.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I have not worked on a caddy before - but did a few sterters on Mustangs which was always a nightmare due to clearance and accessibility issue around the headers/manifolds.

When members say it is easy to change the starter - approx. how long does it take to remove the intake, and how accessible is the starter? Are any special tools required that the average joe may not have?

I may entertain doing it myself if it is a painless job? I appeciate the tips as $$ is always an issue, especially at labor rates above $90/hr....

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I have never had to replace one yet, which does attest to their reliability, but I have heard of it being done in :30 minutes. Personally, I'd allow a little more time, but removing the manifold is a lot easier than it appears or sounds.

P.S.

I'd agree with KHE.

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I would say 1 hour tops. everything is on top. I believe there is a writeup here somewhere on the job. All you need for tools really is you basic metric tool set and a a fuel line disconnect tool.

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Figure 30 minutes to remove the intake and 30 minutes to install the intake. Another 10 minutes to remove/install the starter.

Before removing the intake, use compressed air to blow off any dirt that may have accumulated around the intake so it does not fall into the ports in the heads during removal of the intake.

I would much rather change a starter on a Northstar over one that is installed in the conventional location near the exhaust manifold. All the work is done standing up vs. laying on your back with junk falling onto your face, etc.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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The car is fixed. I replaced the starter yesterday. Took this rookie quite a while, having to remove the dec. cover, fuel injector rails, intake,vacuum lines, throttle body housing, disconnecting neg. terminal on battery under back seat.... Once I got the intake out, there was lots of room and accessibilty to the starter which was nice.I could see some minimal, but shiny witness marks on the engines flywheel where the original starter was putting some wear on the outter surface; so I am glad I took everyones advice to do it now. Car starts smooth and quiet. It also allowed me the opportunity to manually clean the throttle body/plate and mass air flow sensors which where full of carbon film. Cleaned everything with throttle body cleaner, and now the buttle fly plate and throttle body housing look almost new. Took car for long drive to give a good shanke down - all is good. Thanks for the advice. (BTW - for a GM dealer to diagnose and replace a starter in Ontario (Canada) would run someone about $617.00 out the door - so I am glad I was able to do it myself.)

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Nice job, glad you took care of other maintenance issues while you where there, that is why doing it yourself is the way to go, I'll bet that you would not have gotten that extra work included for $617.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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hi guys -

I guess I should've known things would not go too smooth. Since i replaced the starter which works like a champ - I got an engine light triggering. I plugged in my OBD II to gather the codes and looked them up. I am running lean on both Bank 1 and Bank II.

I researched the history on this website and see that the problem is most likely due to a vacuum leak or the seals relevant to the \throotle body/intake, possibliy the IAC, etc.

When I clear the code, I typically can drive a good 30KMS bfore it triggers again. The car runs smooth, I hear no whistling or air escape from the engine. I removed the decorative cover tonight and ensure all vacuum lines where seated/secure and not damaged or pinched. I double checked the air intake box snorkel hose to throttledy to ensure hoses aligned, fully seated, non-puckered and clamped tightly. I ensure all 3 fasteners from the throttle body to the intake where secure......

I am not thrilled - but am thinking I have to pop the fuel rails/intake and check the various gaskets for their integrity and also double check that the passnger side of the intake has the vacuum line fully secured inside the intake....

Question: if any seal at the throttle body to intake is compromised, can I utilize a heat resistant silicone type gasket glue or do I need to run with OEM supplied gaskets? ANy advise or further troubleshooting tips would be appreciated from the Caddy experts. Thanks in advance.....

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I can almost guarantee you that your problem is a ripped plenum (which amounts to a vacuum leak). That's the rubber coupler between the TB and the manifold. It's a common failure and not all that difficult to replace although you do have to remove the intake manifold.

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Thanks - you are probably correct. I will remove the intake again on the wknd and check it out. The good news is that I have some practice now - so things should go a little faster to remove. I just have to take time and do my due diligence and track the problem, I will look for a ripped plenum and any other questionable seals. Thanks for your advice - it's appreciated.

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Re: Eng. light on - running lean codes for bank 1 and bank 2. I have had no luck. I removed intake - inpected Plenum, throttle body housing seal, air intake seals, etc - saw no rips, tears or sign of puckering.

Played it safe and put black RTV silicone on any Inner diameter of plenum where it meets the hosung that mates to the Throttle body. I also applied high temp gasket glue to all gaskets to freshen up seals at every mating connection. The Engine light still triggers after about 35 minutes of driving - still gives me the DTC codes for Lean Bank 1 and Bank 2. Car performs well - just triggers the light.

I also got a new issue today - i put the drivers window down and it won't go up - You can hear the motor cycle so the motor is operative. I removed interior door panel and see the window is on the track and secured - I am wondering if the gears are stripped?????

I have thrown in the towel today and will take it to a shop tommorow to pay handsomly for them to fix. Its too painful to keep taking the beast apart - and still coming up short....

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You have a vacuum leak someplace (intake ducting or PCV hose maybe).

As for the window, I suspect you are a victim of the Deville pop N drop window phenomenon. Check the cable.

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i believ I have the engine light cured now, although I am a little hesitant to think I am out of the woods just yet. I found one of the small vacuum lines that on the small "T'assembly off its colar tonight when I removed the decorative cover - when I went to reseat it, -it felt less than snug. I put a mini hose clamp on it to take out any slop. I drove the car for a good hour, shutting it down and restarting it several times and so far no light. So that part looks good.

I am taking the car to my independant shop tommorow, I alreay have the door apart - so they can do the root cause and tell me if it is a stripped gear in the motor or a snapped cable on the regulator. I don't like working on power windows as everything is out of sight and hard to get at - I have enough trouble when I can see what I am doing:) Thanks for your help.

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