Traction Control question

[jndnaps]

You should be able to feel the latch and pry it up with a thumbnail while pulling on the connector and shouldn't need to see it. Use a hand mirror on the floor, a flashlight, and a mechanic's inspection mirror up under the dash to get a good look at the connector.

I know what you mean by the floor well. Getting up under there is a big problem for me too. If only the seats were easier to take out.

Unplugging the wires should be the easy part. If I remember correctly, the plug was light blue and I saw the tab that needed to be lifted to unplug it. I just couldn't figure out how to get the switch out of the bracket. I was ready to pull the seat so I could get all comfy under there..

[Rickster]

I'll try it again right now

[Rickster]

Tight as a finger up a ducks *smurf*. Afraid of pulling the wires out of the clip. Will think of something.

[Rickster]

Got it. Small screw driver inserted into back of clip. Pops right off. Total cost - $102.00. Thats $22 for the switch and $80 for the bone bender to fix my back.

[Cadillac Jim]

Got it. Small screw driver inserted into back of clip. Pops right off. Total cost - $102.00. Thats $22 for the switch and $80 for the bone bender to fix my back.

[Rickster]

And it goes on.....Seems the brake light switch was fine. Left the new one in anyways. TC light still comes on and Cruise still not working. Must be the other switch. That one controls the Cruise kick out and I think has something to do with the TC as well. Can't find a after market one. Dealer want's $125 + tax. Any body have an other idea before I replace it?

Thanks in advance

[JimD]

....Any body have an other idea before I replace it?

This might be late in the game, but what code are you trying to repair (not the message; the code that triggered the message).

If you previously mentioned the code, I missed it.

[Rickster]

C1294- Brake Lamp Switch Circut always Active. This shows up when the TC light comes on. As well the Cruise is not setting so thats why I thought it was the switchs. Replaced the brake lamp one, no change. Brake lights still don't work.(The LED trunk one still does)

[JimD]

....Brake lights still don't work.(The LED trunk one still does)

Your symptoms are not adding up to the correct sum.

The lower switch applies voltage to all the brake lights plus a cruise control "cancel" signal plus a traction control "disable" signal. If you are comfortable doing some probing with a voltmeter I can give you the procedure I would use before I would throw any more parts at the problem.

If you are not able or willing to do the probing, I don't need the typing practice.

[Ranger]

I think there are two switches up there, one above the other. If I remember correctly, one is for the cruise and TCC disengage and the other is for the brake lights.

[JimD]

There is a little more than that going on with those two switches Larry. And some overlap for redundancy in the case of cruise control; either switch can disengage the cruise.

I had to build my own schematic diagram from information in several system schematics in the Service Manual before I could understand what the engineers intended and how they did it.

[Rickster]

....Brake lights still don't work.(The LED trunk one still does)

Your symptoms are not adding up to the correct sum.

The lower switch applies voltage to all the brake lights plus a cruise control "cancel" signal plus a traction control "disable" signal. If you are comfortable doing some probing with a voltmeter I can give you the procedure I would use before I would throw any more parts at the problem.

If you are not able or willing to do the probing, I don't need the typing practice.

If your willing to type, I'm willing to try. Always willing to learn something. Have a volt meter and a good freind to help.

Thanks Jim

[jndnaps]

I still can't figure out how to change the darn switch. I see it, but have no idea how to get it out. Told you guys I was a retard..

[Cadillac Jim]

The C1294 code refers to the stoplamp switch, which is the lower switch (two connectors) in my 1997 FSM, Figure 1 on page 9B-3. The FSM says that the clearance when the brake pedal is up is about 1/16" (1.6 mm). The contacts close is when the plungers are depressed 3/16" (4.5 mm) but the contacts may close when the plungers are depressed only 1/8 " (3.5 mm) and they *must* be closed when the plunger is depressed 1/4" (12.5 mm). Your 2001 model year car may have different specifications. Make sure that the bracket isn't bent and that the plungers aren't sticking.

According to the 1997 FSM, the switches are twist-lock in, untwist-out.

Rock Auto offers the 2001 STS brake light switch for $10.50 (bottom, Stoplamp/BTSI (BTSI = Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock), part number 25668876, DR4113, or 25568878, white with two connectors) and the cruise control switch for $72 (top, TCC/ABS, part number 25669178 or DR4133, white with one connector). The price the dealer quoted you probably includes installation.

If the CHMSL works but the fender stoplights don't work, then you have a problem in the fender stoplight circuits, possibly in a connector pr ground somewhere because that is one cause that would affect both fender lights - but I would start with the bulbs. The CHMSL is an LED bulb light in your car, I belive, that rarely gives trouble. If the C1294 is telling us that your stoplight switch sticks, that could explain burnt-out stoplight bulbs.

[JimD]

If your willing to type, I'm willing to try. Always willing to learn something. Have a volt meter and a good freind to help.

Thanks Jim

Very good. Given the time zone difference and work schedules, this could take a few days!!

For the benefit of other readers here, this procedure MIGHT NOT apply to other than 1998-2004 Sevilles.

Step one; check the stop lamp filaments in the tail/stop bulbs in both fender mounted lamps are not "open". An ohmmeter will tell you. And it is necessary to remove the lamp assembly from the body to access the bulbs. If you find an "open" tail/stop bulb filament, replace all the bulbs in both lamps and report your findings after a test drive.

The next step involves removing the lower brake pedal switch (again).

[Rickster]

The C1294 code refers to the stoplamp switch, which is the lower switch (two connectors) in my 1997 FSM, Figure 1 on page 9B-3. The FSM says that the clearance when the brake pedal is up is about 1/16" (1.6 mm). The contacts close is when the plungers are depressed 3/16" (4.5 mm) but the contacts may close when the plungers are depressed only 1/8 " (3.5 mm) and they *must* be closed when the plunger is depressed 1/4" (12.5 mm). Your 2001 model year car may have different specifications. Make sure that the bracket isn't bent and that the plungers aren't sticking.

According to the 1997 FSM, the switches are twist-lock in, untwist-out.

Rock Auto offers the 2001 STS brake light switch for $10.50 (bottom, Stoplamp/BTSI (BTSI = Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock), part number 25668876, DR4113, or 25568878, white with two connectors) and the cruise control switch for $72 (top, TCC/ABS, part number 25669178 or DR4133, white with one connector). The price the dealer quoted you probably includes installation.

If the CHMSL works but the fender stoplights don't work, then you have a problem in the fender stoplight circuits, possibly in a connector pr ground somewhere because that is one cause that would affect both fender lights - but I would start with the bulbs. The CHMSL is an LED bulb light in your car, I belive, that rarely gives trouble. If the C1294 is telling us that your stoplight switch sticks, that could explain burnt-out stoplight bulbs.

Yes. My factory manual says the same. Twist in-twist out. 1/16 for clearance and do not touch the brake pedal prior to putting switch back in. Did change the one with two connectors with a new one and code came back so thats why I am leaning towards the other one. Will check the bulbs again (did a while back)and also test for power to the bulbs.

Remember that I live in Canada so the purpose of a dealer is to extract as much money out of the customer as possible. The $125 is for switch only.

[Rickster]

If your willing to type, I'm willing to try. Always willing to learn something. Have a volt meter and a good freind to help.

Thanks Jim

Very good. Given the time zone difference and work schedules, this could take a few days!!

For the benefit of other readers here, this procedure MIGHT NOT apply to other than 1998-2004 Sevilles.

Step one; check the stop lamp filaments in the tail/stop bulbs in both fender mounted lamps are not "open". An ohmmeter will tell you. And it is necessary to remove the lamp assembly from the body to access the bulbs. If you find an "open" tail/stop bulb filament, replace all the bulbs in both lamps and report your findings after a test drive.

The next step involves removing the lower brake pedal switch (again).

Will try to get at it this aft and get back to you.

Thanks again

Rick

[Ranger]

There is a little more than that going on with those two switches Larry. And some overlap for redundancy in the case of cruise control; either switch can disengage the cruise.

I had to build my own schematic diagram from information in several system schematics in the Service Manual before I could understand what the engineers intended and how they did it.

I'll take your word on that Jim. You're WAY above me on that stuff. I'm lucky I can half way read a schematic, much less draw one. My hat's off to you.

[JimD]

I'll take your word on that Jim. You're WAY above me on that stuff. I'm lucky I can half way read a schematic, much less draw one. My hat's off to you.

And I do not have the skills or tools required to build a water pump cartridge tool from scratch !!

[Rickster]

If your willing to type, I'm willing to try. Always willing to learn something. Have a volt meter and a good freind to help.

Thanks Jim

Very good. Given the time zone difference and work schedules, this could take a few days!!

For the benefit of other readers here, this procedure MIGHT NOT apply to other than 1998-2004 Sevilles.

Step one; check the stop lamp filaments in the tail/stop bulbs in both fender mounted lamps are not "open". An ohmmeter will tell you. And it is necessary to remove the lamp assembly from the body to access the bulbs. If you find an "open" tail/stop bulb filament, replace all the bulbs in both lamps and report your findings after a test drive.

The next step involves removing the lower brake pedal switch (again).

Will try to get at it this aft and get back to you.

Thanks again

Rick

OK. Changed the bulbs (they were shot) TC light is now off and TC working. Thought I had changed them a while back but I think I changed the two in the trunk lid. (Running lights).

Cruise still not working. Now have a few new codes:

C1246 - Brake linning wear - current

This one is obvious. Question - would this effect the cruise control and cause it not to work?

C1282 - Yaw rate sensor malfunction - history

C1288 - Steering sensor malfunction - history

These two related to Service stability system message on DIC ? This one comes up every once and a while. One of the air lines to rear shock leaks once and a while. Could be due to this? Must clean and attempt to fix connection at shock.

B1328 - System voltage greater than 15.9 - history

One more bit of info. Put new tires on a while back and took out the sensors. Didn't feel like spending the $$ to replace at this time. Would this have an effect on the cruise?

So there we have it. Any help much appreciated.

Rick

[JimD]

OK. Changed the bulbs (they were shot) TC light is now off and TC working. Thought I had changed them a while back but I think I changed the two in the trunk lid. (Running lights).

Cruise still not working. Now have a few new codes:

C1246 - Brake linning wear - current

This one is obvious. Question - would this effect the cruise control and cause it not to work?

No. But you should have the CHANGE BRAKE PADS message.

C1282 - Yaw rate sensor malfunction - history

C1288 - Steering sensor malfunction - history

I would clear all the codes and see if either one of these sets as Current.

B1328 - System voltage greater than 15.9 - history

Same deal, see if it sets as Current.

One more bit of info. Put new tires on a while back and took out the sensors....

Do you mean brake pad wear sensors??

[Rickster]

Yes. The Change brake pad message appears.

It was the tire presure sensors.

Rick

[Cadillac Jim]

The C1282 and C1288 would cause your Service Stability System message. Stabilitrak needs both sensors to work.

If you took out the wheel turn rate sensors or the suspension height sensors, you disabled ABS, Stabilitrak, and traction control. You probably start of in 2nd gear. This severely cripples the capabilities of your car. I would seriously consider making a plan to get those sensors back on the car.

The B1328 code is very unusual. It might be from a fast-charge with the battery connected - a very bad idea. I would check the battery and ground cables, and have the battery checked. If you clear the codes and it comes back, you may have a bad alternator.

The brake wear indicator probably means that you have a short fuse before your pads begin expensive metal-to-metal stopping. Brake jobs get expensive if you wait too long. But I don't think a C1246 will cause anything not to work - but I didn't check the FSM.

The leaking air line to the rear shock may cause your car to have a low rear bumper in the morning. It shouldn't affect anything else.

[Rickster]

The C1282 and C1288 would cause your Service Stability System message. Stabilitrak needs both sensors to work.

If you took out the wheel turn rate sensors or the suspension height sensors, you disabled ABS, Stabilitrak, and traction control. You probably start of in 2nd gear. This severely cripples the capabilities of your car. I would seriously consider making a plan to get those sensors back on the car.

The B1328 code is very unusual. It might be from a fast-charge with the battery connected - a very bad idea. I would check the battery and ground cables, and have the battery checked. If you clear the codes and it comes back, you may have a bad alternator.

The brake wear indicator probably means that you have a short fuse before your pads begin expensive metal-to-metal stopping. Brake jobs get expensive if you wait too long. But I don't think a C1246 will cause anything not to work - but I didn't check the FSM.

The leaking air line to the rear shock may cause your car to have a low rear bumper in the morning. It shouldn't affect anything else.

The sensors I removed were the tire pressure ones. Mounted inside the rims. I would never remove any of the other sensors. More than likley because I wouldn't know how.

Battery is only a few years old. Replaced it with the AC Delco (OEM) I will check the connections. I replaced a faulty alternator around the same time. Again with a OEM one. Don't want to do that again. $$$.

Plan on doing brakes soon. Waiting for a nice day.

Thanks for your input

Rick

[Rickster]

The C1282 and C1288 would cause your Service Stability System message. Stabilitrak needs both sensors to work.

If you took out the wheel turn rate sensors or the suspension height sensors, you disabled ABS, Stabilitrak, and traction control. You probably start of in 2nd gear. This severely cripples the capabilities of your car. I would seriously consider making a plan to get those sensors back on the car.

The B1328 code is very unusual. It might be from a fast-charge with the battery connected - a very bad idea. I would check the battery and ground cables, and have the battery checked. If you clear the codes and it comes back, you may have a bad alternator.

The brake wear indicator probably means that you have a short fuse before your pads begin expensive metal-to-metal stopping. Brake jobs get expensive if you wait too long. But I don't think a C1246 will cause anything not to work - but I didn't check the FSM.

The leaking air line to the rear shock may cause your car to have a low rear bumper in the morning. It shouldn't affect anything else.

The sensors I removed were the tire pressure ones. Mounted inside the rims. I would never remove any of the other sensors. More than likley because I wouldn't know how.

Battery is only a few years old. Replaced it with the AC Delco (OEM) I will check the connections. I replaced a faulty alternator around the same time. Again with a OEM one. Don't want to do that again. $$$.

Plan on doing brakes soon. Waiting for a nice day.

Thanks for your input

Rick

OK new brakes done with wear sensors plus a front wheel bearing. All good there. No codes at all except "Tire pressure monitor" because I took them out. Cruise still not working. I will try again to set the switch behind the brake pedal but have tried a few times. Any other suggestions on the cruise would be nice. I am also pretty sure the Traction control is not working. When you push the button it will turn it off and on but when it was snowy a few weeks back, the tires just spun. Anyone have this happen? Thanks for any input.

Rick