Traction Control question

[jndnaps]

Since my dash cluster is still out, I can't check codes. The traction control light came on a couple of times in the last week. When it does, the car seems to be starting off in 2nd gear. Now, my question, if I go to discount auto, will there be a code for their scanner to pick up? They said it has to be just the check engine light, not the Traction control light. Also, if I were able to see the on board computer, are there a bunch of different codes for traction control problems? I did change the EBTCM (I think that's what it was called) a few years ago when I had a problem, but then I had the traction and ABS lights on. Not sure if that's the same problem though. If so, can they be bought new? I got the last one from a junkyard DeVille.. Sorry to ask all these darn questions, but as I said before, I'm not a mechanic and dumb as a box of rocks..

So far the #3 cylinder problem is fixed.

[Cadillac Jim]

From what you say Discount Auto tells you, their scanner only checks the Pnnnn codes that affect emissions inspection. The TCS works with the PZM and the EBTCM, and the codes thrown are usually Bnnnn and Cnnnn codes, or occasionally an Unnnn network code if a module doesn't answer the phone, so to speak, on the car's network.

The TCS, ABS, RSS, and Stabilitrak all use the same sensors and hardware, although at least three modules are used and others are affected, as when the TCS tells the PCM to lower the power to the front wheels.

The EBTCM is one of the few modules that will wear out with lots of miles because it has scads of relays in it. I would be slow to change modules at this point. I would look for wheel speed and position sensors, wiring problems, low brake fluid, etc.

[Ranger]

Might be a simple wheel speed sensor. You could run a continuity check on each one.

[BodybyFisher]

There does not appear to be a way to merge these two threads, the same thread was put here and in Videos, I started responding to the one in videos before I realized where it was

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=34611

[jndnaps]

Thanks again for the info. I have a lot on my plate here lately. Just got my home computer up again. Hard drive took a poop.. The traction hasn't come back on again so I'll check and clean the connections. It's looking like the cars gonna end up in the shop. Now have other problems. The miss is back again.

[jndnaps]

So far the traction problem is staying away.. Was gonna clean up the connections on the wheel sensors today, but it started raining. I'll let this one go and see if the problem comes back.. Thanks for all your help guys.

[jndnaps]

OK, I assumed my wife would have told me if the TC light came back on. but, you know what they say about that. Anyways, she said that light came back on yesterday.. So, since the gauge cluster is working, I went and checked codes. I get PC0603 probably because I discoed the battery a few weeks ago. PC1574 and RS0061 that's all, all history codes. This is on a 96 DeVille. I can never figure out how to look up these codes when I get them, so can someone tell me what the PC1574 and RS0061 are? I remember having the RS0061 before. Think that's either A/C or right front strut. but the 1574 is a new one. Thanks

[JimD]

Your codes can be difficult to define due to the hybrid code structure used on 1996 models assembled in 1995 BEFORE the OBD II standards became effective for vehicles built on or after January 1, 1996. The sticker on the driver's door will tell you the vehicle "build date".

Your vehicle code structure is 2 letters followed by four numbers.

OBD II code structure is one letter followed by four numbers.

The good news is ususally the four number sequence is specific enough to translate into an OBD II code. And in the case of your PC1574, that would translate to P1574 which is the stop lamp switch. A failed or improperly adjusted stop lamp switch will turn on the TRACTION CONTROL message.

Be sure your stop lamps are not on when the brake pedal is not being pushed (or used as a foot rest !!).

[jndnaps]

OK, Cool. Car was built 12/95.. No one is messing with the switch so I may need to replace that or should I try and adjust it? Next time it goes on I'll check to see if the brake lights are on. I would assume that by just looking in the rear view mirror at the lights on the back of the headliner would do? or should I go out and look? I think it also has a problem with the brake fluid level light too. I do remember that coming on once in a while. I've changed that once before a couple years ago or so. That's a different problem though. She said she doesn't drive with her foot on the brake and I don't either.. We're not old enough for that yet.

[Ranger]

Look your codes up on OBDI http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html first. It's easier because they are all on one page. Any not found there will be OBDII codes http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

RS0061 is an OBDI code

PC1574 is an OBDII code

[CarlaValentine]

I had a similar problem a while back where my TC kept randomly coming on. In my case it was (and still is) a bad wheel speed sensor connector. I unplugged the bad connector to disable the traction control, which was supposed to be temporary.... at any rate, if your problem comes back you could always disconnect a plug TEMPORARILY to disable the TC until you get it fixed (if it would work the same on a 96 vs my 94). That would at least stop it from randomly coming on. I haven't worried much about mine because I can deal with driving without the ABS or TC.

In regard to your codes, I'm wondering if your RS code is actually either R061 - SIR indicator circuit failure (unlikely to cause your problem, I think) or S061 - Right front position sensor fault (more likely to cause your problem) as there are no S or R codes for OBD2. PC1574 would be the above stated "stoplamp switch circuit"

[jndnaps]

I had a similar problem a while back where my TC kept randomly coming on. In my case it was (and still is) a bad wheel speed sensor connector. I unplugged the bad connector to disable the traction control, which was supposed to be temporary.... at any rate, if your problem comes back you could always disconnect a plug TEMPORARILY to disable the TC until you get it fixed (if it would work the same on a 96 vs my 94). That would at least stop it from randomly coming on. I haven't worried much about mine because I can deal with driving without the ABS or TC.

In regard to your codes, I'm wondering if your RS code is actually either R061 - SIR indicator circuit failure (unlikely to cause your problem, I think) or S061 - Right front position sensor fault (more likely to cause your problem) as there are no S or R codes for OBD2. PC1574 would be the above stated "stoplamp switch circuit"

I'm thinking the RS0061 is the Right front position sensor fault. I've had that for years and was told it's due to a bad right front strut. I need to put a set of passive struts on it, but I'm broke. I know if I sink a lot of money in it, the head gasket will go and I'll need to Time-sert it and I really don't have the cash for that. So I'm being real cheap.. This economy killed me, like most people.. So I gotta be a tight a$$ for a bit..

[Cadillac Jim]

B0061 Roof Rail Module-Left Deployment Loop Circuit

T061 Motor Pump Circuit Fault

R061 SIR Indicator Circuit Failure

S061 Right Front Position Sensor Fault

P061 (E061) Cruise - Vent Solenoid Problem

I believe that RS means RSS. I'm with Carla on this one, I think it's OBD I code S061, RF position sensor fault. That can be caused by problems with a connector or with a link from the suspension to the sensor.

[jndnaps]

OK, Today the Traction control light came on again. I pulled over and checked codes and got a new one, TC0067-C If I looked it up right, it's the T067 Brake Light Switch Fault (TCS Equipped Vehicles Only) Along with the PC1574-H - Stop lamp Switch Circuit. So, I guess I need a new stop light switch? Is that what mounts to the brake pedal, or is it something else? On the 96 DeVille.

[Cadillac Jim]

It could be the switch, its adjustment, or the connector. At any rate you need to look at your brake switch.

[jndnaps]

OK, I just looked at it, it looks good

I'm not a pretzel and I have a bad back and pain in the right side of my ribs, but got under there to look. How the hell do you adjust them and or replace them? I couldn't even unplug the darn thing.

[jndnaps]

Any input on replacing the brake light switch? Picked one up today for a whopping $8.00 But just can't get how to replace it. With my back pain, it's hard to stay down under the dash for to long.

[JimD]

I have no hands-on experience with your year model. But there is a possibility the switch (or switches) can be removed from the mount by rotating the entire switch body 45 or 90 degrees CCW. Intallation is the reverse and adjustment is pushing the switch body toward the brake pedal arm.

Maybe you could recruit a neighborhood 13 year old grass cutter to curl up under the dash??

[jndnaps]

OK, Thanks.. I'll look into doing it that way.. It's hard getting under the dash to do stuff anymore..

[jndnaps]

Since I messed with the switch and tried unsuccessfully to unplug the wires, the traction control light hasn't come back on. Maybe it just needed some fiddling with.. I still have the new switch, but I'll leave it alone till it acts up again.

[Rickster]

So lets talk about replacing that stop lamp switch. No problem getting it out of the holder....but try to unplug it....impossible. Any tips?

[Cadillac Jim]

Most connectors in modern GM wiring harnesses have a latch. Pry back the latch and you can pull off the connector. Sometimes the trick is finding the latch.

[Rickster]

Twisted into a pretzle, on my back, in a dark floor well, looking for a latch the size of a pin head with 52 year old eyes......gona be a good weekend.LOL

Thanks Jim

[jndnaps]

So lets talk about replacing that stop lamp switch. No problem getting it out of the holder....but try to unplug it....impossible. Any tips?

Most connectors in modern GM wiring harnesses have a latch. Pry back the latch and you can pull off the connector. Sometimes the trick is finding the latch.

Twisted into a pretzle, on my back, in a dark floor well, looking for a latch the size of a pin head with 52 year old eyes......gona be a good weekend.LOL

Thanks Jim

I would think that would be the easy part. I can't even get mine out of the bracket. I'm 48 and have a bad back, but I worked my way in there and couldn't get the thing out.. I would think once it's out you just need to do what Jim said.

[Cadillac Jim]

You should be able to feel the latch and pry it up with a thumbnail while pulling on the connector and shouldn't need to see it. Use a hand mirror on the floor, a flashlight, and a mechanic's inspection mirror up under the dash to get a good look at the connector.

I know what you mean by the floor well. Getting up under there is a big problem for me too. If only the seats were easier to take out.