Jump to content

Rickster

Supporter
  • Content Count

    452
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Rickster

  • Rank
    Enthusiast (250+ posts)
  • Birthday 04/29/1959

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2001 Seville STS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada, Wet Coast, Squamish BC
  • Interests
    Fine Scotch (Single Malt), Fine Cigars, Fine Women, Flowers for my Woman. Oh ya.. and a Titilest Pro V1 300 yards out in the center cut and of course a Caddy under my *smurf*.<br /><br />

Recent Profile Visitors

2,674 profile views
  1. Just thinking back, I had a broken front spring at that time. Maybe that was somehow throwing a sensor?
  2. It's been a while since I have run the car. Funny though. I washed her today. Have to get a new rad before I drive it again. As the post said before, I cleaned some connections and it seemed to clear up. As far as the brakes applying out of the blue, I can't remember it happening again. Ehen I get her on the road again, I will report.
  3. I've had some luck with a sealer that the tire shop puts on the rim when I get new tires. I have one this time that has the slow leak. If I have time, I might take it in and get it re sealed. Other wise....I just keep topping it up
  4. Shot in the dark. Yaw rate sensor. My brakes did that a short while back. Can't recall the code but it was to do with the yaw rate sensor. Unplugged it, cleand the contacts,did battery disconect and it seems fine now. Maybe I was lucky but seems good now.
  5. By looking at this thread, it was about 6 and 1/2 years ago I had the C1282. Well the bugger is back. I will tomorrow try as I did in the past and hopefully correct the issue. But. I have a question. Would this issue be related to my brakes applying all by themself at 60mph. It felt as if it was the left front. You could feel almost a ABS sensation in the brake pedal. It did slow the car rather quickly but not scary like. I stoped and could feel the brake pedal almost like release the brakes. Headed out again and seemed all normal. No codes were thrown upon the DIC but the C1282 is history. Ha
  6. Thanks Kevin. I'll look into that.
  7. I have worn through the air line for the rear shock and am trying to locate new ones to replace old ones. Looks like a fairly easy task but cann't find anything in the manual or at GM parts on line. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance Rick
  8. I agree...but usally when traction is engaged with wheels spinning in snow, the message in the DIC would say "TRACTION ENGAGED" and it doesn't anymore with wheels spinning in snow. so thats why I do not think it is working properly. To me it's not a big issue. Not often do I spin the wheels.
  9. The sensors I removed were the tire pressure ones. Mounted inside the rims. I would never remove any of the other sensors. More than likley because I wouldn't know how. Battery is only a few years old. Replaced it with the AC Delco (OEM) I will check the connections. I replaced a faulty alternator around the same time. Again with a OEM one. Don't want to do that again. $$$. Plan on doing brakes soon. Waiting for a nice day. Thanks for your input Rick OK new brakes done with wear sensors plus a front wheel bearing. All good there. No codes at all except "Tire pressure monitor" because I
  10. The sensors I removed were the tire pressure ones. Mounted inside the rims. I would never remove any of the other sensors. More than likley because I wouldn't know how. Battery is only a few years old. Replaced it with the AC Delco (OEM) I will check the connections. I replaced a faulty alternator around the same time. Again with a OEM one. Don't want to do that again. $$$. Plan on doing brakes soon. Waiting for a nice day. Thanks for your input Rick
  11. Yes. The Change brake pad message appears. It was the tire presure sensors. Rick
  12. Very good. Given the time zone difference and work schedules, this could take a few days!! For the benefit of other readers here, this procedure MIGHT NOT apply to other than 1998-2004 Sevilles. Step one; check the stop lamp filaments in the tail/stop bulbs in both fender mounted lamps are not "open". An ohmmeter will tell you. And it is necessary to remove the lamp assembly from the body to access the bulbs. If you find an "open" tail/stop bulb filament, replace all the bulbs in both lamps and report your findings after a test drive. The next step involves removing the lower brake pedal sw
  13. Very good. Given the time zone difference and work schedules, this could take a few days!! For the benefit of other readers here, this procedure MIGHT NOT apply to other than 1998-2004 Sevilles. Step one; check the stop lamp filaments in the tail/stop bulbs in both fender mounted lamps are not "open". An ohmmeter will tell you. And it is necessary to remove the lamp assembly from the body to access the bulbs. If you find an "open" tail/stop bulb filament, replace all the bulbs in both lamps and report your findings after a test drive. The next step involves removing the lower brake pedal sw
  14. Yes. My factory manual says the same. Twist in-twist out. 1/16 for clearance and do not touch the brake pedal prior to putting switch back in. Did change the one with two connectors with a new one and code came back so thats why I am leaning towards the other one. Will check the bulbs again (did a while back)and also test for power to the bulbs. Remember that I live in Canada so the purpose of a dealer is to extract as much money out of the customer as possible. The $125 is for switch only.
  15. Your symptoms are not adding up to the correct sum. The lower switch applies voltage to all the brake lights plus a cruise control "cancel" signal plus a traction control "disable" signal. If you are comfortable doing some probing with a voltmeter I can give you the procedure I would use before I would throw any more parts at the problem. If you are not able or willing to do the probing, I don't need the typing practice. If your willing to type, I'm willing to try. Always willing to learn something. Have a volt meter and a good freind to help. Thanks Jim
×
×
  • Create New...