Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

1994 cadillac sedan deville


Recommended Posts

I just bought a 1994 Cadillac and I know what all the codes are, but do not know what I have to do in order to fix the problems. could anyone help

P030 ISC RPM OUT OF RANGE

P032 OPEN MAP SENSOR SIGNAL

P052 PCM MEMORY RESET

P053 DISTRIBUTOR SIGNAL INTERRUPT

P091 PRNDL SWITCH PROBLEM TRANSAXLE

I039 LOSS OF ROAD SUSPENSION DATA

I052 KEEP ALIVE MEMORY ERROR

A040 AIR MAX VALVE (POOR) CIRCUIT PROBLEM

would appreciate any input anyone has

Link to comment
Share on other sites


From the looks of it, and the indication of resets, interruptions, and keep alives, that you have the infamous and hopefully least expensive issue of them all - Dirty battery terminals. The + cable leading to the battery separates, and bith pieces need to get thoroughly cleaned. also the ground should get cleaned too.

NOTE Competely remove the ground from the battery first, then and only then remove the + and clean them both.

after cleaning:

Attach the + first, then attach the ground. This will keep you from getting jolted if you accidentally touch the rachet to metal on the car.

Have you had battery issues - or was your battery drained recently?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced battery in my 95 seville, it also has the 2 positive cables stacked together. A couple days later I was driving and the transmission wouldn't shift out of low. I checked the positive connection and it was loose. Went to auto part store and bought new battery bolts and tightened them up. It happened again about a week later! Finally I went to the hardware store and bought a star washer and put that against the battery then snugged it up. Have not had a problem since.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight! My positive bolt was tight but if you tried to twist the terminal with hand it would turn.

Is the battery in good condition?

Are the battery cables in good condition?

Also there is a positive connection under the fuse/relay's on the driver's side that may need cleaned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also, I bought the car for next to nothing but the guy who replaced the trans before I bought it seems to have done a *smurf* job. when I try to accelerate the car stalls and jerks. could this be due to the linkage being off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced battery in my 95 seville, it also has the 2 positive cables stacked together. A couple days later I was driving and the transmission wouldn't shift out of low. I checked the positive connection and it was loose. Went to auto part store and bought new battery bolts and tightened them up. It happened again about a week later! Finally I went to the hardware store and bought a star washer and put that against the battery then snugged it up. Have not had a problem since.

Make sure all connections are clean and tight! My positive bolt was tight but if you tried to twist the terminal with hand it would turn.

Is the battery in good condition?

Are the battery cables in good condition?

Also there is a positive connection under the fuse/relay's on the driver's side that may need cleaned.

While battery connections and battery condition are important, this 94 Deville has a 4.9 you have a NS 4.6, the positive battery cable is different

By the way, it is interesting that you experienced the tight bolt/loose terminal problem we often tell members that the bolt can be tight or bottomed out, and the connection can still be loose..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also, I bought the car for next to nothing but the guy who replaced the trans before I bought it seems to have done a *smurf* job. when I try to accelerate the car stalls and jerks. could this be due to the linkage being off?

These symptoms may have nothing to do with transmission. Vacuum leaks, ignition components, bad sensors (TPS, MAP, ect.)may cause the condition you described. Start with spark plugs/wires inspection. You will probably get new trouble codes later.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also, I bought the car for next to nothing but the guy who replaced the trans before I bought it seems to have done a *smurf* job. when I try to accelerate the car stalls and jerks. could this be due to the linkage being off?

These symptoms may have nothing to do with transmission. Vacuum leaks, ignition components, bad sensors (TPS, MAP, ect.)may cause the condition you described. Start with spark plugs/wires inspection. You will probably get new trouble codes later.

I just gave it a tune up, cleaned the terminals. Im thinking its my map sensor. It keeps reading as open MAP sensor for trouble code

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also, I bought the car for next to nothing but the guy who replaced the trans before I bought it seems to have done a *smurf* job. when I try to accelerate the car stalls and jerks. could this be due to the linkage being off?

These symptoms may have nothing to do with transmission. Vacuum leaks, ignition components, bad sensors (TPS, MAP, ect.)may cause the condition you described. Start with spark plugs/wires inspection. You will probably get new trouble codes later.

I just gave it a tune up, cleaned the terminals. Im thinking its my map sensor. It keeps reading as open MAP sensor for trouble code

I had the stalling and jerking problem with mine a few months back. I also had a P032 code for the MAP sensor. I changed the sensor and it has been running great ever since.

big4870885.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, so I replaced the map sensor and still the same problem. Im thinking it has something to do with my distributor for some reason. gave it a tune up, and according to my haynes book. firing is in right order. Maybe its the module, IDK :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, so I replaced the map sensor and still the same problem. Im thinking it has something to do with my distributor for some reason. gave it a tune up, and according to my haynes book. firing is in right order. Maybe its the module, IDK :(

What are the current codes? If you plan to work on your car you need Factory Service Manual (FSM)instead of Haynes. You can get one on eBay.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just I039 and A040. you wouldnt buy chance have a diagram for the connects that go to the coil pack on top of the distributor. the 3 wire and both single wires. not sure if the guy I had tune up replaced them right

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just I039 and A040. you wouldnt buy chance have a diagram for the connects that go to the coil pack on top of the distributor. the 3 wire and both single wires. not sure if the guy I had tune up replaced them right

Unfortunately, I do not have my 1991 Seville FSM anymore, so cannot help with diagram. The codes seem to be unrelated.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im at a lost then. I replaced map sensor but the car still stalls and takes more time then usual to accelerate. only thing I can think of, is transmission if it isnt my ignition

Did you check the fuel pressure?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to change the fuel pump, I know it was sitting up in a garage for at least 4 months but I havent checked pressure yet

You may change perfectly working fuel pump. Check the pressure first. Do you have fuel pressure tester?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't throw parts at a problem that is what foolish/lazy mechanics do. Smart mechanics do proper diagnostics. Buy a fuel pressure tester from Sears, it may not be the fuel pump but a relay, fuse or ground to the fuel pump and replacing the fuel pump would be a waste of money.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not being lazy, just understand that I dont know the condition in which the last person kept the car. so Im replacing everything I can, but I do need to get priority problems straight beforehand. I'll get that tester once I finish tuning up this distributor and see if thats the problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was not implying YOU were lazy, I was implying that lazy mechanics "parts replace"

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was not implying YOU were lazy, I was implying that lazy mechanics "parts replace"

lmao, no harm taken. This is my 2nd Cadillac. I bought the dreaded CTS during the recall stages, but now I have the Deville and the engine has so much space and simplicity to work on it. So Im just enjoying myself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was not implying YOU were lazy, I was implying that lazy mechanics "parts replace"

but now I have the Deville and the engine has so much space and simplicity to work on it. So Im just enjoying myself

Ah youth! To think that a 90's Deville has space and simplicity in the engine compartment!

Us old guys remember when you could jump into the engine well of a 60's V8 Chevy or Pontiac or even Cadillac to perform repairs. And about three wrenches and a flat-blade screwdriver, some pliers and a crowbar were all you needed to fix almost anything. What a concept!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Im at a lost then. I replaced map sensor but the car still stalls and takes more time then usual to accelerate. only thing I can think of, is transmission if it isnt my ignition

im going to be hoanest i dont know a thing about the codes, but about a week ago i was having the same problems, well it turned out to be the conection of the throttle body, these caddys are pretty cheap when it comes to the conectors, the bad connection of the wires from the top of the throttle body to the inner was weak on mine and caused one of the wires to melt the plug and burn the male part of the plug whitch caused the fuel pump to still run but be week, its a relativity easy/cheap problem to fix just check your fuel preassure after having it off for a while then check your connection, if it is the problem hit me up and il explain what i did shes running like a dream now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im at a lost then. I replaced map sensor but the car still stalls and takes more time then usual to accelerate. only thing I can think of, is transmission if it isnt my ignition

im going to be hoanest i dont know a thing about the codes, but about a week ago i was having the same problems, well it turned out to be the conection of the throttle body, these caddys are pretty cheap when it comes to the conectors, the bad connection of the wires from the top of the throttle body to the inner was weak on mine and caused one of the wires to melt the plug and burn the male part of the plug whitch caused the fuel pump to still run but be week, its a relativity easy/cheap problem to fix just check your fuel preassure after having it off for a while then check your connection, if it is the problem hit me up and il explain what i did shes running like a dream now

The connector held up for 16 years. I think that's pretty good & implies GM did their job in the manufacturing of the electrical system (Maybe it's not even original). Fortunately melting plugs & connectors has not come up on this board yet. Additionally, one never knows what a prior mechanic or owner might have done. Maybe that connector was sprayed with carb cleaner when soneone was cleaning the TB - that stuff will melt plastic.

BTW I am inpressed how the external connectors are all waterproofed with the rubber around the wires & connectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...