rek Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I "Archived" this first but I am checking further. Car: 1997 G-Platform, 80K miles. Driving straight, 35 MPH, no tire noise, tracking straight, nice. Turn the wheel slightly to the RIGHT, I hear whump whump whump, or whu whu whu. If I turn to the LEFT, it's as guiet as it is going straight. I think it might be a bearing, even though there doesn't seem to be any play in it (jacked up and grabbing the wheel test). BTW, the tires balanced out with .5 oz. weight , and have been changed. How bad of a job is it and which side do you think it is? rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Sounds like left (driver side) hub-bearing. Mine did not have any play either.. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I agree, left side front bearing. Not a bad job to do. If all goes well, (no stuck bolts), should be less than 1 hr. - Jack up left front. - Remove wheel. - Insert large screw driver in brake rotor (to prevent it from turning). - Remove axle nut (33 mm socket) (Don't use impact wrench) - Detach brake caliper and hang up on spring with wire. (Don't let it hang by the hose) - Remove rotor. - Disconnect anti-lock sensor wire. - Remove three bolts holding on the bearing. (Holes in the hub allow access to bolts) - Remove bearing assembly. (Sometimes stuck by rust) Replace with new bearing assembly / reverse above steps. Note: Tighten Axle nut 107 ft. lb. No special tools required. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 If the bearing is not stuck to the shaft it is an easy job. Mine was stuck to the point I had to turn a 20 ton bottle jack on its side and press it off with 3 rods and a backing plate. Bent the flange of the old bearing all to hel!. What a pain in the as@. Most people on this board have not had that kind of trouble though. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 "The bad bearing is always the opposite of the one you just changed...." LOL Hmmm....I think its the right one. The bearings are goofy. You will swear its the 'left' bearing based on sound and driving. And it will turn out to be the right one. The bearings have a habit of getting noisy while unloaded. Just the opposite from what you would think. The good news, if you replace the wrong one. You can put the old 'good' one back on the other side. Been there. The front hubs have to get extremely bad before they will show any play or even feel bad while rotated in your hand. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted June 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 Thanks for all the info. You make the job sound so easy, that I might as well do the link and bushing drill on it. As to what side, I was first thinking it was the left bearing (more work on it as the weight shifts-right turn), but , as Logan pointed out, " the empty wagon makes the most noise". That is good news that I can reuse the old good one. because I was going to get a bearing/hub for the "right" side... rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 11, 2004 Report Share Posted June 11, 2004 When I did one on a '92 Deville there was a "special tool". Basically was just a steel plate with a cut out to slide infront of the outer CV joint to prevent pulling the axle with the hub assembley. I just used a crow bar. Worked like a charm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 It was a bad job the first time I did it, cause I had to keep going back to buy tools and then get the wrong size then go back, return what I had got, etc. The 2nd time it was pretty easy and < 1 hr. ahhh, cause I had the right tools. Here's what you need: to remove the brake calipers - 10 mm allen - and turn the wheel full lock so you can use something for leverage without fender interference. I have a 3 foot aluminum tube that fits over my rachet. the wheel hub nut - 34mm hub socket (you need a hub socket because its deeper than a normal socket (as if a 34mm is a normal socket, lol) ... and I noticed a post that said 33mm - could be 33 is right, but 34 has worked for me. At that diameter a little slop doesn't hurt, but 34 feels right to me. The hub assy is held in by 3 bolts. I removed the first one with an allen socket ... ha! Just lucky - you need a torx t55 for those. And they can be verrrrrry tight. I needed a lot of leverage on the first side I did (driver side). The other side was not so bad. Had to use that alum pipe on my half inch rachet, one of the bolts made a loud crack when it finally surrendered. The next part is pulling the hub. It might come out fairly easily with a normal puller. My first one was verrrrry tight, and had to use a wheel hub puller (it was suggested that a 'blue tip wrench' might have helped (a propane torch, fyi). Don't know, but a real wheel hub puller bolts to the wheel lugs and is very heavy duty and I needed it. The other side was less difficult and may have come out with a standard puller. 2 things are nuisances. The rear part of the hub probably will remain after the hub is removed. Its pretty much like an oil seal and can be tapped out from behind. A little awkward. Maybe someone knows a better method. The other thing is that the driveshaft will slide outboard with the hub, it won't go too far, but it should be restrained with a crow bar or something. The hub socket was about $10 at pep boys and they had the puller too. About 60$, but you return it for a refund. They don't rent, they sell it to you and you can return it. Kragen Auto Parts are near me too (actually nearer than pb), they will have basic parts, but for special items like the socket and puller its a crap shoot there - take that back, they didn't have the hub either, pb had it in stock. They (Kragen) told me they had a hub puller in another store, I went there, got it, took it home, and it was not the right tool. They had it in the wrong bin. I had not yet used a hub puller and did not realize in the store that it wasn't the right one. Just another hour and a half of trips to the store, returning the wrong thing and going to another store to try again..... I think the first time I spent 4-5 hrs doing the job, seeing that I needed a tool, going to a h/w or auto store to get what I thought probably I needed, getting the not quite right item, returning it, getting the right item ..... etc. As I said, armed with the right tools, it can be done in an hour and a half if you work slowly. Good luck. oh, can someone post the torque that the hub nut should be tightened too. And off topic but the ball joint bolt torque also. (in case you haven't done a ball joint, they are riveted from the factory and you have to drill out the rivet and open up one or the two peices of steel that the bj is sandwiched between (cause the original rivet was conical and the bolt is not). Nuts and bolts come with the bj for its reinstallation. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiden_kai Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Hmmm....I think its the right one. The bearings are goofy. You will swear its the 'left' bearing based on sound and driving. And it will turn out to be the right one. The bearings have a habit of getting noisy while unloaded. Just the opposite from what you would think. I hope you are kidding. Otherwise you are simply giving out "bad" information. Wheel bearings do "not" have a habit of getting noisy when "unloaded". The exact opposite is true. If the noise increases when you turn right, it will be the left wheel bearing 99 percent of the time. Wheel bearings get "noisier" as you put load on them. In case you are wondering, I've been a GM tech for 25 years, and have diagnosed and replaced 100's of wheel bearings. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 We seen a few also bud! The bearing have a wild way of transmitting noise thru the chassis. You will swear its the left hub for example....turns out the right hub will be the bad one. Its not bad info. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Good luck. oh, can someone post the torque that the hub nut should be tightened too. Hub and bearing nut to 70lb/ft 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Good luck. oh, can someone post the torque that the hub nut should be tightened too. Hub and bearing nut to 70lb/ft The GM manual states 107 Ft Lb torque on the axle nut. 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Just mic'd the hub bolt. It is 33mm. As I said 34 works too, I just torqued them with it, barely any noticible slop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted July 3, 2004 Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Correction to my earlier post as to the tools, etc. I wrote 10 mm allen to remove the brake calipers, just discovered that is wrong. Let's see, is memory the first thing to go, or was the the other thing??? Anyway 10mm is too big and 9 might work but it seems to small, the best fit was 3/8, thought all this stuff was metric.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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