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Thinking About A Custom Tune On The 2006 DTS


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As the title says...

I am thinking about a custom tune on my 2006 Performance Sedan.

EFILive now supports the 2006 to 2009 Northstar.

I know an Instructor for EFILive that will be in my area in a few weeks.

He has agreed to tune my car if I want it done.

I am wondering about getting a new ECM and TCM and have those tuned, thus keeping my stock ones in case I don't like the tune. Also in case of a needed dealer visit, I can put the stock ones back in the car if necessary.

The tune is reasonable. $200 bucks.

The new ECM and TCM is about another $450 or $500 on top of that.

I am debating if it is worth it to get more performance out of it.

People with new pickups are getting the custom tunes all time and they really like them. Including my son with a GMC Sierra Denali. :D

Any opinions, Pro or Con are welcome.

Let me have it.... your opinion, that is. :D:D

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I think it sounds good, but

How will this impact your powertrain warranty?

I would not have him remove the rev limiters. Has he run this tune on a dyno? Is is guaranteed not to go lean at 6,500 rpm? Do you plan on putting it on a dyno, to get before and after results? How is he going to provide you with the results?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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And this guy is just exactly how much more sophisticated than the engineers at GM who've "picked all the low hanging fruit?" :wacko:

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I vote yes get it done. I like to hear real world testing of aftermarket tuning items.

The guy can tell you, but I think to reset to stock you would go to the dealer and have them reprogram your PCM, so you might not need 2 PCMs.

On the other hand, to swap the PCMs you would need a Tech II to program them? I get that your desire is to be able to swap in the driveway, but I am not sure that is one of the choices.

For example, I think the PCM has to be calibrated to the knock sensor?

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Do what you will, but a Fleetwood of Cadillac engineers have preceded you. That counts for just a little.

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Howdy all,

Thank you all, for the opinions so far...

First let me say...I am not expecting huge power gains in HP.

I want the tune to (mostly) increase the overall driveability of the car. There are several things about this one that are quite a bit different from my first one. I want to try to get it more like the first one. It was a joy to drive. As close to perfect (for me at least) as any car I have ever owned.

A couple of things I want done to this one, is remove SOME of the torque management (not all) from it and raise the speed limiter.

The speed limiter being set at 123 mph has always bothered me. :D

Not that I go that fast.. it is just the idea of the dang government telling me what I can and can't do. :D That irritates me... more than just a little. FWIW...I have only hit the limiter a few times in almost 50,000 miles.

Another thing that I don't like.... Anytime you stand on it...from a dead stop... the PCM cuts back the power... A LOT. It takes a couple of seconds for it to get to full engine power.

Also, as it shifts gears, during WOT...you can feel a VERY NOTICEABLE drop in power for just a second as it is actually changing from one gear to the next. Instead of a nice firm SHIFT NOW... (like the first one), it, (more or less), just kinda eases from one gear to the next. It reduces engine power when shifting, by retarding the timing during shifts. If you are paying attention...It feels like you actually let up on the gas for just a second while it is shifting gears.

According to the GMVIS website, (which lists all the PCM/TCM updates that have been done to my car) there was a rolling change to the PCM/TCM software, mid year of production, that changed the shift charactristics for smoother shifting.

(I am quoting now.. for a more CADILLAC LIKE DRIVING EXPERIENCE) :D

Early production cars (like my first one) did not have this (so called) UPDATE.

Y'all remember... I am 63 years old... I don't do much hot rodding or stop light drag racing. :D:D

I just want it to be able to perform more up to the potential that I know it is capable of.

To paraghrase the Army slogan... I just want it to "Be All It Can Be." :D:D

Thank you all for the comments so far.

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I think it sounds good, but

How will this impact your powertrain warranty?

I would not have him remove the rev limiters. Has he run this tune on a dyno? Is is guaranteed not to go lean at 6,500 rpm? Do you plan on putting it on a dyno, to get before and after results? How is he going to provide you with the results?

Mike,

It could potentially void the powertrain warranty. That is why I am considering getting another set of PCM's and TCM's. Have the tune done on the new ones... KEEP the ones I have now, to swap back into the car if I ever needed to.

I would not remove the rev limiters. 6500 RPM is plenty. :D

As i said in my other post to everyone... I am not expecting HUGE HP gains... just better drivability and having it live up to it's potential a little more.

During the tune, (which takes about 1.5 hours) he has a computer hooked up to the date port to monitor, and adjust as necessary, any parameters that need it. We will actually be DRIVING the car during a lot of the tuning procedure.

I am thinking of doing before and after dyno runs... just for my own knowledge.

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I vote yes get it done. I like to hear real world testing of aftermarket tuning items.

The guy can tell you, but I think to reset to stock you would go to the dealer and have them reprogram your PCM, so you might not need 2 PCMs.

On the other hand, to swap the PCMs you would need a Tech II to program them? I get that your desire is to be able to swap in the driveway, but I am not sure that is one of the choices.

For example, I think the PCM has to be calibrated to the knock sensor?

If I ever took it to the dealer to have it reset... they would probably automatically void my warranty just on general principles. :D:D:D

That is why I am considering getting a complete set of PCM's and TCM's.

Have the tune done on the NEW ones...and KEEP the ones that are on the car NOW, to swap back into the car if I ever needed to.

The ones in the car NOW are, of course, already calibrated to it. THAT is the ones I would be putting back in .... "IF" I ever needed to.

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Sounds great Jim, we can't wait to see the results, mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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And your Tuner can help you with the details of how to preserve your base tune.

I am interested to hear your results.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Do what you will, but a Fleetwood of Cadillac engineers have preceded you. That counts for just a little.

Regards,

Warren

Warren,

No argument with that statement at all or with your other one about the LOW HANGING FRUIT.

I am just trying to get to the next branch up and get a nice shiny apple. :D:D

I do realize that it may be a wasted effort... but HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL. :D

As I am sure you know, there is always SOME variation from one car to the next, when built at the factory. But the software in the computers of the cars, do not take that variability into account.

All of them have the EXACT SAME software, at a relatively tame setting to insure a good driving experience, decent performance and drivability to all of the cars.

I am just going to try to tweak this one to try to bring out a little more of it's potential... IF it has more to BE brought out. :D:D

There exists the possibility that it may be a wasted effort, and I might end up wishing I hadn't spent the money on it.

My other posts explain more of what I want to do and what I am hoping to accomplish.

The dang NANNIES that watch over you and control almost every aspect the car for you, are so overly protective, that it sometimes (often) gets irritating.

The ones on my sons new GMC Sierra Denali pickup are even MORE intrusive. In STOCK TUNE.. when you suddenly STAND ON IT...even if you are already moving... it takes from TWO TO FOUR SECONDS...depending on your speed at the time.. before it reaches full power. And that is by using a stopwatch to time it.

On a two lane road, you have to be careful how you pass someone. If you wait for a clear space.. then get on it.. there is the several seconds LAG .. before it will really GO. It could get dangerous.

It is the 6.2L with 403 HP. If you are setting stopped, say at a light...and suddenly FLOOR IT... it will just BARELY chirp the tires...it is up to about 20 mph before reaching full power. Then it backs off the timing every time it shifts. It has the six speed transmission. It is a LOT worse than mine about controlling how you can drive it and what you can or MOSTLY CAN'T do.

None of my older cars had any of this stuff.

Be thankful that your ElDorado don't have it. :D

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  • 3 months later...
I vote yes get it done. I like to hear real world testing of aftermarket tuning items.

The guy can tell you, but I think to reset to stock you would go to the dealer and have them reprogram your PCM, so you might not need 2 PCMs.

On the other hand, to swap the PCMs you would need a Tech II to program them? I get that your desire is to be able to swap in the driveway, but I am not sure that is one of the choices.

For example, I think the PCM has to be calibrated to the knock sensor?

Not only will a Tech 2 be required, you also have to have acess to GMs TIS2WEB system to passthru program the ECM and TCM because you can no longer pull info with just the Tech 2

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I vote yes get it done. I like to hear real world testing of aftermarket tuning items.

The guy can tell you, but I think to reset to stock you would go to the dealer and have them reprogram your PCM, so you might not need 2 PCMs.

On the other hand, to swap the PCMs you would need a Tech II to program them? I get that your desire is to be able to swap in the driveway, but I am not sure that is one of the choices.

For example, I think the PCM has to be calibrated to the knock sensor?

Not only will a Tech 2 be required, you also have to have acess to GMs TIS2WEB system to passthru program the ECM and TCM because you can no longer pull info with just the Tech 2

caddy dealer or whatever you are,

You are full of it. I can't say just WHAT you are full of in this public forum.

I have now swapped BOTH the TCM and PCM in my driveway.

I did the security relearn of the PCM in my driveway also.

Then I had a custom tune installed on them.

I DID NOT need a Tech2 nor did I need access to TIS2WED.

It is currently running just fine...thank you.

Actually it is running GREAT..better than it has ever run.

Why don't you stay out of threads when you don't know what the dickens you are talking about?

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....Why don't you stay out of threads when you don't know what the dickens you are talking about?

Don't sugar coat it Jim; tell us how you really feel about it!

:P

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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