daniel812 Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Hi, I am replacing my leaking valve cover gaskets tomorrow on my 98 Seville 4.6 and was wondering if there is anything I should also do once I am taking so much apart. I will replace my Plugs, but all other tune-up parts are still good. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Without information on time and miles, it's hard to be specific. there are a lot of things that I wouldn't want to look at twice in the same year or two: Distributor cap and rotor. Spark plugs, as you say. Plug wires. Any rubber gaskets or grommets, such as the PCV valve grommet. Belts and hoses. Thermostat. In fact, if I were looking at any of these things, I would not put the old one back. Whoops, I read 1988. Low mileage Northstar? Please ignore distributor stuff; everything else is OK, except that I would leave the thermostat alone. I would replace the serpentine belt and PCV valve. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 only 60k miles on my car. I did a full tune-up, belts, radiator hoses, thermostat 10k miles ago -- just over 1 year ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 This is a very hard job I understand. Do you have a cam pulley puller? I think the rear cam cover is darn near impossible to get off without tilting the engine forward, good luck. They are valve cover seals, and you will need the spark plug port seals also. buy lots of brake clean to clean them up Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 A power steering pulley puller is identical to the overpriced Kent-Moore tool that the service manual specifies. Any auto parts store will have it. You will also need a metric bolt (I can't remember the size) and a stack of washers to reinstall the water pump pulley back on the cam. Thouroughly clean the grooves of the cam covers before installing new gaskets - if the gaskets contact oil, they will swell and then it will be impossible to get them in the grooves. As BodybyFisher stated, you will need to lower the front of the engine cradle to access the rear cam cover. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 So I replaced the rear valve cover (firewall side) since that was the leaking side. I tried to remove the front one (which was not leaking) and after a few hours I gave up since I didnt have the time to keep taking more parts out. Seems the front is the harder of the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEldo97 Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Is is. The biggest PIA is removing the water pump drive pulley from the cam. You have to use the PROPER puller (I think I bought mine from Snap-On) or you'll ruin the cam. If you can live with that oil leak, leave it alone, IMO it's not worth the heartburn involve with changing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Exactly what I did - I do have the special tool. The backside valve cover was the one leaking so I replaced that, and gave up on the front one (which is not leaking) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 If the front cover is not leaking, I'd leave it. Keep the gasket in case you need it at some point. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 6, 2008 Report Share Posted July 6, 2008 Exactly what I did - I do have the special tool. The backside valve cover was the one leaking so I replaced that, and gave up on the front one (which is not leaking) The FSM shows in detail how to do it, how to maneuver it to get it off. Did you see the procedure in the manual? What was causing the problem with the front? Did you need to tilt the engine to get the back out? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I got the back cover off with very little hassle and did not tilt the motor. I took off misc. hoses, ignition coils, wires and loosened the bolts. As for the front, I loosened all the bolts, lowered the frame, removed the water pump belt and tensioner. I had the valve cover loose but could not get it off past the cam. I basically stopped at that point since it was not leaking to begin with (I just like doing both at the same time) and I put it all back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I got the back cover off with very little hassle and did not tilt the motor. I took off misc. hoses, ignition coils, wires and loosened the bolts. As for the front, I loosened all the bolts, lowered the frame, removed the water pump belt and tensioner. I had the valve cover loose but could not get it off past the cam. I basically stopped at that point since it was not leaking to begin with (I just like doing both at the same time) and I put it all back together. If you decide to do this again, let me know, I will post the photos of this procedure, the photos are quite interesting to see the arrows and how it gets moved Camshaft Cover Replacement Left Removal Procedure Tools Required J 38825 Water Pump Drive Pulley Remover J 38823 Water Pump Drive Pulley Installer Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Caution Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components. General Information. Partially drain the coolant from the radiator. Refer to Draining and Filling the Engine Coolant in Engine Cooling. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the water crossover. Refer to Radiator Hose Replacement in HVAC. Disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the right side cooling fan. Refer to Fan Replacement in Engine Cooling. Disconnect the battery cable at the generator. Disconnect the cable harness clip at the cam cover. Place the cable out of the way. Disconnect the PCV fresh air tube from the cam cover. Remove the right and left torque struts. Disconnect the water pump drive belt. Remove the EGR tube. Remove the water pump pulley using J 38825 . Remove the camshaft seal retainer screws. Remove the camshaft seal. Remove the cam cover screws. Remove the cam cover by moving the cam drive end of the cover up. Pivot the entire cover around the water pump drive shaft. Move the cover upward and pivoting such that the edge of the cover closely follows the left edge of the intake manifold cover. Discard the cover seal if there is any evidence of damage or if the seal comes out of the groove in the cover during removal. The spark plug seals may be reused if undamaged. The red text has photos showing direction arrows Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 thank you for your information. I wish I had this when I started the job. I am now debating if I should replace the gasket since I have it or just leave well enough alone since it is not leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 thank you for your information. I wish I had this when I started the job. I am now debating if I should replace the gasket since I have it or just leave well enough alone since it is not leaking. Personally, I am surprised you are giving up so easy, Me, I would replace it, on basic principle alone. I would be glad to post the photos, if you decide to man up and change the seals.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 But only if you take photos during the process, otherwise Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I think I willreplace the front gasket at some point when itts not 100 degrees outside Maybe by the end of summer I'll take care of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I think I willreplace the front gasket at some point when itts not 100 degrees outside Maybe by the end of summer I'll take care of it Ill try to post the photos in this thread when I get a chance, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted July 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 thank you - no rush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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