Creak from front right wheel

[lothos]

Hey guys

I'm getting a rubbery creaking noise from the front right passenger side wheel area. It only tends to happen when I leave in the morning and back out of my driveway. The creaking is louder when I turn the wheel all the way to the left. It happens when the car is parked and the wheel is turned, or if I'm driving real slow, like pulling into a parking spot. I don't notice it while I'm driving, and I've tried swerving back and forth like a nascar driver while going slow and I don't notice it then, either.

My buddy did my drivers side ball joint but I haven't done the passenger side yet. Could that be the issue?

I'm at a loss here, and don't know what to look for, or how to diagnose this.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[lothos]

I checked out the creaking noise again while the car was parked. Turning the wheel all the way to the right makes the right wheel creak. The creaking happens near the end of the wheel movement. Turning to the left doesn't appear to make the noise. On a road trip last month my friend told me there was a clunking noise from that wheel.

I've seen reference on here to a sway linkage, or rubber bushings, is that what I'm looking at?

I'll try lifting the car up tonight or tomorrow and moving the wheel at 3 and 9, and 12 and 6 and see what that does. Besides that test, I'm at a loss as to what to diagnose, so any help would be appreciated.

[lothos]

I haven't had a chance to check this issue out yet. I've been working overtime helping out at another business lately. I'm going to try to check this out on Saturday.

Besides moving the wheel at 3 and 9, and 12 and 6, is there anything else I should look for?

[BodybyFisher]

Grease the ball joints and tie rods if they have not been lately. Listen to the strut mount/bearing for noise while someone slowly turns the wheel.

[lothos]

Thanks for the reply, I'll check those out this weekend.

[BodybyFisher]

Here is a photo of the strut assembly, you are looking to check the strut mount, it can get noisy on slow speed turns. How it steering returnability after turns?

[lothos]

It seems to return to center after a turn. I haven't noticed anything weird in that regard.

[BodybyFisher]

It seems to return to center after a turn. I haven't noticed anything weird in that regard.

Ok, it still can make noise however

[Logan]

Bad stabilizer bar bushings typically make a squak noise in very cold weather. And only for the first mile or so after cold soak.

Bad stabilzer links typically make a 'popcorn in the microwave' sound over bumpy roads. Can happen anytime.

Sounds like a dry ball joint.

[lothos]

Bad stabilizer bar bushings typically make a squak noise in very cold weather. And only for the first mile or so after cold soak.

Bad stabilzer links typically make a 'popcorn in the microwave' sound over bumpy roads. Can happen anytime.

Sounds like a dry ball joint.

Cool. I'll check it out. That one might be due for replacement anyways, let's hope that's the issue

Thanks for the replies, I'll see what I can find out on Saturday and let you guys know.

[lothos]

My car guy is back from Basic training, and he heads to Iraq here on the 31st, but he said he'd be happy to help me out with this. We went out the other night and he said it sounds more like a CV because a ball joint will pop. Is that the thing that will leak grease all over when they go bad, or am I thinking of a tie rod? I'm not finding this in my FSM under either CV or Constant Velocity, can anyone point me in the right direction? I can't find that part on rockauto.com either.

Another symptom I've noticed lately is a "pulsing" kind of movement when I hit the brakes that seems to come from that right front wheel that creaks. It's not like a brake pulse, the pedal doesn't pulse, but you can feel something going on with that wheel.

I'd really like to diagnose this and order the part so my buddy can help me with it before he leaves. Any ideas?

[jking220]

Try looking under "Axle" or "half-shaft".

Ive got that same "pulsing" under braking. I think I need a new drivers side tie rod end and it is letting the tire bounce left and right. Ive got to get under the car to make sure its not a ball joint because Ive had them give me the same symptoms, but if I kick the tire at 3 and 9 with it on the ground I can make it rotate some. If you can get the tire in the air and possibly make it move some, someone behind the tire may be able to see if its the ball joint or tie rod or stabilizer bushings or what. If you cant see anything move, it might be a CV, but I would guess it was balljoint or tie rod end due to the squeek.

[BodybyFisher]

My car guy is back from Basic training, and he heads to Iraq here on the 31st, but he said he'd be happy to help me out with this. We went out the other night and he said it sounds more like a CV because a ball joint will pop. Is that the thing that will leak grease all over when they go bad, or am I thinking of a tie rod? I'm not finding this in my FSM under either CV or Constant Velocity, can anyone point me in the right direction? I can't find that part on rockauto.com either.

Another symptom I've noticed lately is a "pulsing" kind of movement when I hit the brakes that seems to come from that right front wheel that creaks. It's not like a brake pulse, the pedal doesn't pulse, but you can feel something going on with that wheel.

I'd really like to diagnose this and order the part so my buddy can help me with it before he leaves. Any ideas?

As Jonah noted check half shafts or axle shaft, the FSM, should show you how it breaks down from the inner tri-pod joint to the CV (constant velocity) outer joint. The inner and outer boot can split or be damaged and leak grease, see Dana's recent thread for a photo of a leaking boot.

Make sure the car is safely up in the air, parking brake on, park, level ground, heavy duty jack stands placed securely, chock wheels, etc., a mistake will leave you injured badly or killed. Don't just use your garage jack, they are being made in China now, do I need to say more?

Front ends are difficult to diagnose by your self, unless its obvious like a bad tie rod or loose bushing like the strut rod bushing or unless it it obviously LOUD. As Jonah noted, I would get the frame up on stands and let the wheel hang and push and prod the suspension as hard as you can, use pry bars and see if you get movement. Have your friend watch while you stress the wheel assembly at 6 and 12, 9 and 3 o'clock and use a pry bar (gently). Turn the steering wheel and listen for sqeeking, etc. Good Luck

[lothos]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll grab my buddy and see what we find out. I'll post back with results.

Thanks again!

[lothos]

Hey, is this something that can break and leave me stranded or ruin the front end? I'm supposed to go out of town on Friday, it's less than two hours each way. Just wondering if I should postpone my trip.

[BodybyFisher]

Hey, is this something that can break and leave me stranded or ruin the front end? I'm supposed to go out of town on Friday, it's less than two hours each way. Just wondering if I should postpone my trip.

Not at all. You have not said how loud it is, but you might never find it, it could be so many things. We have suggested what we think it might be.

Have you greased the front end, yet as I recommended?, why not take it to jiffy lube and get it greased unless you have a grease gun. Buy a grease gun, and grease the lower ball joints and the outer tie rods, there should be grease fittings. SOMETIMES there will be grease fittings on the stabliizer links.

The VERY FIRST thing I would do is jack up each side, look around, push and pull, look for loose bushings and joints and grease it. THEN drive it, you might just solve your problem. What I just said to do will take an hour at most. Buy a grease gun at your favorite parts store with a tube of good grease.

THEN, you will have eliminated the possiblity that you needed grease, and begun your diagnostics. You might also find the wheel lugs not tightened tight. Use a torque wrench to reinstall the lug nuts, torque them to 100 ft lbs, or preferrably whatever your manual states is the spec.

My method is to eliminate one thing at a time starting with the simplest things to do. I might eventually rebuild the entire front end, but I start small.

If you don't want to take the wheel off, you can still grease the ball joints and tie rods as the ball joint fittings are accessible from under facing inboard under the car and if you turn the wheels you can get to the tie rod grease fittings. Don't overfill the tie rod, just fill it till the bladder is firm. Grease it.

[jking220]

LOL... Grease it!!!

[lothos]

All four of my wheels are torqued to 100 ft lb like the FSM states. I bought a torque wrench to do my spark plugs a month or two ago, and that's all I've really used it for besides the wheels. I just bought myself a Craftsman Microtorq 25 to 250 inch pounds wrench as well, got it for forty bucks off craigslist as a birthday present to myself. Haven't used that one yet, but I saw the deal and my FSM calls for inch pounds on a lot of things so I figured I'd pick it up.

I found this from Checker Auto for 13 bucks:

Alltrade Tools Grease Gun: Team Mechanix; 6000 PSI with Air Bleeder Valve; Uses Standard 14 oz. Cartridge or You Can Hand Pack; Includes 6" Steel Extension & Coupler

I think I'll stop by there tonight after work and grab it with a grease cartridge. I'd rather do it myself than take it somewhere, it'll probably cost less and it'll be a learning experience.

I'll grease it up tomorrow and see how it does on the little road trip. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again for all the help!

[BodybyFisher]

I don't know if you are spending a lot of money for that, but you don't need anything expensive, a hand pump model give you the control and pressure you need, Mike

See this type, very basic, I don't use the flexible hose, I like the pipe type, very cheap and effective

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=1703

[lothos]

I don't know if you are spending a lot of money for that, but you don't need anything expensive, a hand pump model give you the control and pressure you need, Mike

See this type, very basic, I don't use the flexible hose, I like the pipe type, very cheap and effective

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=1703

The one I posted is 13 bucks from Checker Auto. I might stop at Napa and see what they have, there's one on the way home from work.

[BodybyFisher]

OK, I saw the 6000 PSI etc and thought that it was too much information, some are electrified, which to me is over kill, you really dont need a lot of pressure, really, have fun

[lothos]

OK, I saw the 6000 PSI etc and thought that it was too much information, some are electrified, which to me is over kill, you really dont need a lot of pressure, really, have fun

I got one of the mini grease guns and a three pack of cartridges for 12 or 13 bucks. They are kinda fun, I must have used half of a tube setting it up and playing with it

[BodybyFisher]

OK, I saw the 6000 PSI etc and thought that it was too much information, some are electrified, which to me is over kill, you really dont need a lot of pressure, really, have fun

I got one of the mini grease guns and a three pack of cartridges for 12 or 13 bucks. They are kinda fun, I must have used half of a tube setting it up and playing with it

Good for you, enjoy, Time to get a tall red box for your tool collection!!

[lothos]

Good for you, enjoy, Time to get a tall red box for your tool collection!!

I got a great deal on a Waterloo project cart for $50:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/WAT-PC343.html

I've really been getting into cars lately, and I figured if this kept up I could use it as a utility cart while I'm working, and get a bigger box for the tools. Or, if I don't get into it too much, this will be fine. So it's the perfect size for now. I'm kind of surprised by how fast it's been filling up, but I've got some parts in it that I need to install like my ISC, some O2 sensors and a serpentine belt. And I keep my FSM in the bottom drawer

[BodybyFisher]

Good for you, enjoy, Time to get a tall red box for your tool collection!!

I got a great deal on a Waterloo project cart for $50:

<a href="http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/WAT-PC343.html" target="_blank">http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/WAT-PC343.html</a>

I've really been getting into cars lately, and I figured if this kept up I could use it as a utility cart while I'm working, and get a bigger box for the tools. Or, if I don't get into it too much, this will be fine. So it's the perfect size for now. I'm kind of surprised by how fast it's been filling up, but I've got some parts in it that I need to install like my ISC, some O2 sensors and a serpentine belt. And I keep my FSM in the bottom drawer

I love those carts and always wanted one. I usually set up a 4 by 4 sheet of plywood on horses and lay out my tools, parts etc. I have been collecting my tools since 1973, when I started working on my own car. Before that I used my dads disorganized tools, lol. (he always knew when he was missing something however), Check out snapon.com if you want to get excited, but keep in mind that snap-on is the Rolls Royce of tools IMHO. But Oh Lord, do I love them. I also like SK, Craftsmen and Klein tools, Husky is adequate. Buy good tools that feel good in your hand. The old Craftsmen wrenches were not rounded, they had sharp edges, there was no need for the sharp edges and I didnt like how they felt in my hand. That is what I like about Snap On, they feel great in your hand. The other manufactures have started rounding their wrenches now.

You are on your way