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Creak from front right wheel


lothos

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I love those carts and always wanted one. I usually set up a 4 by 4 sheet of plywood on horses and lay out my tools, parts etc. I have been collecting my tools since 1973, when I started working on my own car. Before that I used my dads disorganized tools, lol. (he always knew when he was missing something however), :o Check out snapon.com if you want to get excited, but keep in mind that snap-on is the Rolls Royce of tools IMHO. But Oh Lord, do I love them. I also like SK, Craftsmen and Klein tools, Husky is adequate. Buy good tools that feel good in your hand. The old Craftsmen wrenches were not rounded, they had sharp edges, there was no need for the sharp edges and I didnt like how they felt in my hand. That is what I like about Snap On, they feel great in your hand. The other manufactures have started rounding their wrenches now.

You are on your way

Those carts are pretty handy. It's got a spot on the left to wind up and store an extension cord, and the top has little storage compartments and a flat area for working on stuff. You can also put hanging hooks on the sides. Mine doesn't have the wooden block on top though, it's just black rubber/plastic.

I don't have a whole lot of tools yet, I've only been working on cars for a couple years and that was mostly tune-up stuff when I had the Cutlass. I didn't even know how to do my own oil before that :lol:

I've seen SnapOn stuff on Craigslist, and even the used tools seem to be more expensive than new Craftsman ones. I couldn't afford or justify buying SnapOn. I know you should buy quality tools though. So far I've stuck to Craftsman, they seem to be made decently and I love the fact that if any tool breaks you can simply walk into a Sears store and exchange it and there's two Sears stores within ten minutes of me. I've got a 104 piece craftsman kit that I keep in my trunk and I just picked up a used 1/2 Craftsman ratchet for ten bucks. I've got a few random generic tools from Checker, like a 12 point socket and a 20 inch extension that I picked up so I can do my O2 sensor.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

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I love those carts and always wanted one. I usually set up a 4 by 4 sheet of plywood on horses and lay out my tools, parts etc. I have been collecting my tools since 1973, when I started working on my own car. Before that I used my dads disorganized tools, lol. (he always knew when he was missing something however), :o Check out snapon.com if you want to get excited, but keep in mind that snap-on is the Rolls Royce of tools IMHO. But Oh Lord, do I love them. I also like SK, Craftsmen and Klein tools, Husky is adequate. Buy good tools that feel good in your hand. The old Craftsmen wrenches were not rounded, they had sharp edges, there was no need for the sharp edges and I didnt like how they felt in my hand. That is what I like about Snap On, they feel great in your hand. The other manufactures have started rounding their wrenches now.

You are on your way

Those carts are pretty handy. It's got a spot on the left to wind up and store an extension cord, and the top has little storage compartments and a flat area for working on stuff. You can also put hanging hooks on the sides. Mine doesn't have the wooden block on top though, it's just black rubber/plastic.

I don't have a whole lot of tools yet, I've only been working on cars for a couple years and that was mostly tune-up stuff when I had the Cutlass. I didn't even know how to do my own oil before that :lol:

I've seen SnapOn stuff on Craigslist, and even the used tools seem to be more expensive than new Craftsman ones. I couldn't afford or justify buying SnapOn. I know you should buy quality tools though. So far I've stuck to Craftsman, they seem to be made decently and I love the fact that if any tool breaks you can simply walk into a Sears store and exchange it and there's two Sears stores within ten minutes of me. I've got a 104 piece craftsman kit that I keep in my trunk and I just picked up a used 1/2 Craftsman ratchet for ten bucks. I've got a few random generic tools from Checker, like a 12 point socket and a 20 inch extension that I picked up so I can do my O2 sensor.

Don't feel bad, Snap On is too expensive for most. Craftsmen is not bad at all, I have a lot of Craftsmen tools and actually like their new design. Did you buy the O2 Sensor socket with the split in it for the cable? Warm the exhaust system up before trying to remove the sensor, it will help. They come off pretty easy.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Don't feel bad, Snap On is too expensive for most. Craftsmen is not bad at all, I have a lot of Craftsmen tools and actually like their new design. Did you buy the O2 Sensor socket with the split in it for the cable? Warm the exhaust system up before trying to remove the sensor, it will help. They come off pretty easy.

Yup, I got a socket with the split up the side for the cable. I was trying to stick my hand down there and loosen it with a small ratchet and there's just not enough room. It wouldn't budge at all. So I picked up the 20 inch extension for my 1/2 drive and we'll see how that works :lol: I'll warm up the exhaust and wiggle the O2 sensor a little. Is it OK to use PB Blaster on that sensor if it won't come off?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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Don't feel bad, Snap On is too expensive for most. Craftsmen is not bad at all, I have a lot of Craftsmen tools and actually like their new design. Did you buy the O2 Sensor socket with the split in it for the cable? Warm the exhaust system up before trying to remove the sensor, it will help. They come off pretty easy.

Yup, I got a socket with the split up the side for the cable. I was trying to stick my hand down there and loosen it with a small ratchet and there's just not enough room. It wouldn't budge at all. So I picked up the 20 inch extension for my 1/2 drive and we'll see how that works :lol: I'll warm up the exhaust and wiggle the O2 sensor a little. Is it OK to use PB Blaster on that sensor if it won't come off?

I don't think you will have a problem. I don't know if PB Blaster is O2 sensor safe, maybe someone can answer that, its a petroleum based product so it probably is ok.

I think there is an art or skill if you would, to using tools properly. I think there is a lot of feel when you loosen or tighten bolts and nuts. Both hands have a purpose. If you are right handed, you hold the socket handle at the pivot point with your LEFT hand, keeping the socket perfectly in line with the centerline of the nut/bolt. When you begin to turn the bolt with your RIGHT hand, you apply the required force with your left hand to keep the socket in line with the centerline of the nut/bolt. I only have problems, when I can't keep the socket, in line with the nut/bolt, due to a bad angle, etc. You need to feel if the socket is slipping, and while you are keeping the socket in a centerline with the nut/bolt you want to push the socket on the nut/bolt, it helps to keep from buggering up the nut/bolt head.

While being strong is an advantage, using your weight can be effective, when pushing or pulling. Always be aware that something could snap or the socket could slip off and you could lose your balance, so don't push or pull uncontrollably. And you need to watch your hands if you slip, there are a lot of sharp edges, bolts, screws along the firewall, etc. Wear a glove on your power hand, when breaking bolts loose. Getting into the correct position to apply maximum force is important. Its a sort of a controlled force, I sort of muscle nuts/bolts off, they don't have a choice but come loose. Sometimes, you want to SNAP a bolt or spark plug loose with a sudden force also to break a bond.

Hope you don't mind me passing on my experience, it comes from making a lot of mistakes, cuts, etc.. :fighting0025:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I don't think you will have a problem. I don't know if PB Blaster is O2 sensor safe, maybe someone can answer that, its a petroleum based product so it probably is ok.

I think there is an art or skill if you would, to using tools properly. I think there is a lot of feel when you loosen or tighten bolts and nuts. Both hands have a purpose. If you are right handed, you hold the socket handle at the pivot point with your LEFT hand, keeping the socket perfectly in line with the centerline of the nut/bolt. When you begin to turn the bolt with your RIGHT hand, you apply the required force with your left hand to keep the socket in line with the centerline of the nut/bolt. I only have problems, when I can't keep the socket, in line with the nut/bolt, due to a bad angle, etc. You need to feel if the socket is slipping, and while you are keeping the socket in a centerline with the nut/bolt you want to push the socket on the nut/bolt, it helps to keep from buggering up the nut/bolt head.

While being strong is an advantage, using your weight can be effective, when pushing or pulling. Always be aware that something could snap or the socket could slip off and you could lose your balance, so don't push or pull uncontrollably. And you need to watch your hands if you slip, there are a lot of sharp edges, bolts, screws along the firewall, etc. Wear a glove on your power hand, when breaking bolts loose. Getting into the correct position to apply maximum force is important. Its a sort of a controlled force, I sort of muscle nuts/bolts off, they don't have a choice but come loose. Sometimes, you want to SNAP a bolt or spark plug loose with a sudden force also to break a bond.

Hope you don't mind me passing on my experience, it comes from making a lot of mistakes, cuts, etc.. :fighting0025:

That's actually how I've been holding the ratchet and socket. Nice to know I've been doing it right :D I'm not the strongest guy, I'm more of the skinny computer nerd type :lol: I'm great at reading and absorbing information though. My dad and my friends growing up were never really into cars, so I'm pretty much starting from "what's an oil dipstick?" :rolleyes: I was thinking of picking up an ASE training book at Half price books so I can pick up the basics. Hence all the dumb beginner question I ask. Any help and advice is greatly appreciated, I'm here to learn and help out people when I can.

I actually did pick up some cheap gloves last night, and some safety glasses/goggles. It was like six bucks for both, which is a cheap price to pay for preventing accidents. I got some carb cleaner in my eye a couple years ago when I was cleaning some kind of idle control part on my Cutlass... backsprayed and I ran inside and stuck my head under the faucet. Eye's ok, and I learned my lesson :lol:

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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If you can read, comprehend, and follow the instructions (which seems to be harder than most would imagine), then the regulars here will have no problem helping you with any questions you have, even if theyre beginner questions.

While you may not know a whole ton about cars because of your upbringing, you seem very good at following instructions, and you seem to be very mechanically inclined, so I think youll do fine.

:D Im going to vac the STS tonight since I dont have to work tomorrow! :D

Sorry, Im excited to clean her, she needs it.

Jonah

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OK, I've got the car raised and the wheel off. Trying to figure out where to hook up the grease gun and I'm not finding anything. I've got a couple pictures, can anyone help me out?

In this picture I think the tie rod I have to grease is in the upper left, is that correct? You can also see my FSM, I tried looking in it but didn't find anything about adding grease.

P7040001.jpg

Pretty sure this is my CV joint:

P7040002.jpg

Here's my ball joint, it's wet because I tried cleaning some of the gunk off of it.

P7040003.jpg

That ball joint doesn't look very good to me, maybe I just need a new one??

I've got a mini grease gun, but I can't figure out where to fill up the ball joint and tie rod.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

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After cleaning up the ball joint some more, I found a little nipple on it that sticks out. The nipple has a split in it but I can't figure out how to hook the grease gun up to it.

Haven't found anything on the tie rod yet, either.

After re-reading this thread, I think I have the "popcorn in microwave" sound from this side as well when going over bumps. There's some popping noises when I hit really rough bumpy areas sometimes.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

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It appears that I need an adapter to fill up the ball joint. I even asked the guy at the parts counter if the mini grease gun would work for ball joints and he said yes. Off to the parts store I guess.

In my first picture, there's the bladder thing in the upper left. It's not full and firm but I can feel grease in it. Should that be sufficient or should I fill it up some more? Will I need a hose to reach it, or an adapter on the grease gun to fill it?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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OK. Went to the parts store. It seems that my grease gun has a standard connector on the end of it. My car guy tells me just to push hard on it and the nipple will connect. I don't think any of the grease is getting into the ball joint. Any pointers? I'll keep trying.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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OK. I pushed harder and got the ball joint greased. The ball joint on the other side was replaced and I can't find a nipple on it, although I didn't take the wheel off. Anyways, the nipple started spitting out grease so I think I got it filled OK. That seems to have taken care of most of my creaking noise.

There is wheel movement at 3 and 9 on the wheel. There is also a noise during the movement that seems to be coming from the inner tie rod area. I think this means new tie rods, not sure if I need an inner or an outer or both. My car guy leaves on the 31st for Iraq, he can more than likely help me if I can order parts soon. By help me, I mean he does most of the work and I assist and watch and learn :lol:

So do I order inner or outer or both? Checking rockauto.com I can get ACDelco inner and outer for about 90 bucks. It says left hand side though, and there's no listing for right. This is the passenger side I'm working on, will that still work? There's also Moog inner and outer for around 70 total. There's a Spicer Red-Label Service Grade that I could get both for 20 bucks. That sounds too cheap. They have "professional grade" Spicer, both inner and outer for around 60. I think I'd rather stick with ACDelco or Moog, I've heard Moog is good and I think that's what my driver's side ball joint is. Still not sure if I need inner, outer, or both, how do I tell?

I'm going to go get cleaned up now, have a happy 4th of July everyone!

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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I checked on gmpartsdirect.com and a couple other sites and they show the same part for both left and right, so I think your ok ordering it. I would go with the ACDelco part for the extra 20 bucks a side, but thats me.

Im not sure on the 95, but on my 01 STS I dont think it really has a traditional inner tie rod end, atleast what I could see with the tire off, I havent looked at the FSM. It looked like the tie rod itself threaded into a nut and connected right into the rack possibly? Maybe someone who knows better can let you know.

Jonah

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I checked on gmpartsdirect.com and a couple other sites and they show the same part for both left and right, so I think your ok ordering it. I would go with the ACDelco part for the extra 20 bucks a side, but thats me.

Im not sure on the 95, but on my 01 STS I dont think it really has a traditional inner tie rod end, atleast what I could see with the tire off, I havent looked at the FSM. It looked like the tie rod itself threaded into a nut and connected right into the rack possibly? Maybe someone who knows better can let you know.

I agree on going with ACDelco. I've been using ACDelco parts where I can for the car.

I checked my 95 FSM, and the inner tie rod connects to the rack. There's a notice that says:

**NOTICE: Rack must be held during removal and installation to prevent internal gear damage

How must it be held? Held in place by hand, or with a jack? I'm not sure what that means.

Also, how do I tell if I need an inner or outer tie rod? Or maybe my rack is damaged? I'm not sure how to diagnose this.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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Ive got an outer that needs replaced. If you reach around the back of the tire and grab the tie rod near the tie rod end and shake it hard, you can feel the play in mine. You can also get play with the tire in the air at 3 and 9. I can physically feel and see that its the outer on my car, but its pretty gone too.

Jonah

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I tried reaching around my tire and moving the tie rod, and I didn't notice any play in it. When I had the car in the air and the tire off, there was play at 3 and 9 and it was making a noise up by the inner tie rod. The outer is kind of rusty looking though.

My buddy says that if it was the rack it would be real loose and act like I was low on power steering fluid. I don't think it's the rack.

My buddy is available on the 20th to do this before he goes to Iraq, so I'd like to diagnose it and order the parts soon. I'm at a loss here on how to figure out if it's the inner or outer. The FSM doesn't seem to be much help in this regard.

Also, I'm not sure what this means:

**NOTICE: Rack must be held during removal and installation to prevent internal gear damage

Supported how?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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TWO people need to be involved one to push and pull the suspension, the other to look to see where the play is. If it was the outer tie rod its right in front of your face, you would see the movement. Just look to see where the play is. It COULD be the rack for sure, but your steering would probably have play in it, look at the inner tie rod, look to see if the rack is loose on the frame.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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By play you mean moving the wheel back and forth without the wheels turning? How much play? I think I can move my steering wheel, starting at 12, back and forth to 11 and 1 without feeling the wheels move. Is that normal range?

How am I supposed to hold the rack while removing and replacing a tie rod?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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By play you mean moving the wheel back and forth without the wheels turning? How much play? I think I can move my steering wheel, starting at 12, back and forth to 11 and 1 without feeling the wheels move. Is that normal range?

How am I supposed to hold the rack while removing and replacing a tie rod?

Jack the car up to get the wheel off the ground

Grab the TIRE at 12 and 6 and try to move it IN and OUT, then grab the TIRE at 3 and 9 and try to move it IN and OUT.. Anotherwords you are pushing with ONE hand and pulling with the OTHER hand, trying to see if there is PLAY in that plane.. There should be NO play or movement at all.

IF you sense movement, someone needs to get under the car and inspect what is moving while the other guy moves the TIRE at 12/6 and 3/9 o clock

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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What I took for play in the steering wheel probably isn't. There's not a lot of resistance moving the steering wheel from 11 to 1 but the front wheels do move slightly.

I've done the tire test and there's movement when I grab it at 3 and 9. There's also a noise from the inner tie rod area. My buddy lives an hour away, I'll see if I can grab someone else to move the tire while I look under the car and see what's going on.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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What I took for play in the steering wheel probably isn't. There's not a lot of resistance moving the steering wheel from 11 to 1 but the front wheels do move slightly.

I've done the tire test and there's movement when I grab it at 3 and 9. There's also a noise from the inner tie rod area. My buddy lives an hour away, I'll see if I can grab someone else to move the tire while I look under the car and see what's going on.

This has NOTHING to do with the steering wheel, re-read my post just before this, and re-read my post #13 in this thread.

IF you have movement grabbing the moving the wheel assembly at 3 and 9 it means that you have some part that is allowing that. You need to find out what part is allowing that movement. It can be the outer tie rod, the inner tie rod or the rack. Have a helper move the wheel/tire back and forth while you get under and look to see what is moving..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I was able to have my buddy help me look at the car. He says the tie rod is fine. My passenger side ball joint is bad. When I greased it, I found a rubber nipple on it with a slit in it and greased it that way. He says that's the boot and the nipple is from when it was manufactured. It leaks grease. He showed me the correct grease fitting to use :lol:

We're going to do the ball joint next weekend, I ordered a Moog. I've heard good things about that brand on this board and I'm pretty sure it's what we installed on the driver's side.

My buddy says that a bad ball joint can sometimes cause a shimmy, has anyone else experienced that? If the ball joint doesn't fix the symptom I'm going to look at the rotors after that. The pads are good all the way around but the rotors could use a replacement before winter.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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Good, it didnt cause a shimmy for me it wore out the inside of the tires. Glad you found the bad ball joint, if the rubber bladder is ruptured water is in there and grit etc. Are you getting a shimmy on braking or in general?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Good, it didnt cause a shimmy for me it wore out the inside of the tires. Glad you found the bad ball joint, if the rubber bladder is ruptured water is in there and grit etc. Are you getting a shimmy on braking or in general?

Just on braking. I think it might be the rotor. We'll see after this weekend. I have some outer tread wear on my passenger tire, I'm going to be getting an alignment next week after the ball joint is replaced.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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Good, it didnt cause a shimmy for me it wore out the inside of the tires. Glad you found the bad ball joint, if the rubber bladder is ruptured water is in there and grit etc. Are you getting a shimmy on braking or in general?

Just on braking. I think it might be the rotor. We'll see after this weekend. I have some outer tread wear on my passenger tire, I'm going to be getting an alignment next week after the ball joint is replaced.

If it is on braking its definately your rotors. We have had a lot of discussion about the subject. When you either replace or have your rotors turned, clean and use the proper grease to grease the sliders. You might also buy a caliper bushing kit and replace the bushings. If the sliders are bound up at all, they will cause too much heat on your rotors. You rotors are suffering from thickness variation, probably from brake pad material transfer.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If it is on braking its definately your rotors. We have had a lot of discussion about the subject. When you either replace or have your rotors turned, clean and use the proper grease to grease the sliders. You might also buy a caliper bushing kit and replace the bushings. If the sliders are bound up at all, they will cause too much heat on your rotors. You rotors are suffering from thickness variation, probably from brake pad material transfer.

Do I have to do all four rotors, or can I just replace them in pairs? Hopefully I can do one axle at a time?

I picked up some SylGlide or whatever a couple weeks ago, I was getting a noise when the car was parked and I applied the brakes to shift. I couldn't figure out how to pull the caliper off, but my buddy told me what socket I need to pick up for that. So I still have the packet of SylGlide I can use.

I've seen some brake and parts cleaner at the parts store, but I'm not sure what to clean :lol: Can that also be used to take the gunk or rust off my sockets?

My pads all around are good. I was planning on replacing the calipers eventually, but was hoping to not have to do that yet. How do you tell if they're bound up at all? Is rebuilding a lot cheaper than buying a new caliper, and if you rebuild it do you get a new bleeder valve as well?

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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