apache13 Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 I checked the codes in my car for the first time today....15 in all. I checked for some info on the codes and got what they meant....anybody know the easiest way to tackle these? Is the suspension on my car simply not working? Any help is appreciated...thanks so much ROAD SUSPENSION SYSTEM Rssc 1760 DTC C1760 LF Position Sensor Input Fault Rssc 1761 DTC C1761 RF Position Sensor Input Fault Rssc 1780 DTC C1780 Loss of Steering Position Signal BODY CONTROL MODULE Pzmb 0533 DTC B0533 Fuel Sensor Feedback Shorted High Pzmb 1552 (?) Pzmb 1558 (?) TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM Tcsc 1223 DTC C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 Tcsc 1224 DTC C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 Tcsc 1251 DTC C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction Tcsc 1255 DTC C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction Tcsc 1282 DTC C1282 Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction Tcsc 1286 DTC C1286 Steering/Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction Pcmp 0154 DTC P0154 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1 Pcmp 0603 DTC P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset Ipcb 1552 (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Where they history or current? Was battery voltage low recently? I'd clear 'em and see which return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Looking at these codes, my opinion is that your most likely problems are low battery voltage or multiple wiring short circuits from a power wash from underneath the car. As Ranger says, the first thing to do is to clear all the codes. First you read the codes, which you obviously already know how to do, then when you get the prompt "PCM?" you are in the mode of controlling the IPC module, which is the master computer for the car as a whole and the master for the Class 2 Serial Data Line. In this mode, the fan speed button is the input, with UP for "YES" and DOWN for "NO." Give it a YES and then repeat NO until you see the "Clear Codes?" prompt, then a YES. This clears the PCM codes but you have to start the process again to get to the other modules. Press the Info Reset button to exit the diagnostic mode. Then press OFF and PASS WARMER buttons again to get back into the diagnostic modes, let it run through the codes again, and this time give it a NO at the "PCM?" prompt, and it will go to the next module, which is IPC on my car. You have codes set on the IPC, RSS, PZM, and TSC; each time you come to a prompt for a module that has codes set you give it a YES, then NO until you see "Reset Codes?" which you give a YES. Repeat as necessary until you have all History codes reset. Make a note of any Current codes and address those issues before proceeding. Once you have all the codes reset, start the car cold and drive it normally for about fifteen minutes, and include cruising at 45 mph or faster highway speeds for at least a couple of minutes if possible. Then, before you shut off the engine, run the codes again, and note all the codes (if any), and note which are Current and which are History. Address any issues raised by Current codes. Repeat as necessary. It looks very much like you have a battery voltage problem. If you think your battery is good, clean the positive terminal of the battery cable, and make a point of peeling apart the three connectors inside the red cover on the positive terminal and cleaning them. If that doesn't do the trick, check the grounds, and have the battery load tested. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Hey you guys are awesome...I appreciate all of the help...Thank you so much! I reset the codes...I'm only getting one current PCM P0155 I can't seem to reset the TCS and RSS codes...but a second look is showing all of the codes as history...I'll give it another go around to get those reset, the detail instructions help extremely well! I am sure though that I did reset the PCM codes last night and this last one was created while driving on the interstate. The battery is okay...the cables/wires connect to it are dinged up and messed up beyond belief that connect to the battery (on the positive side)...I'll fix that on Friday with some baking soda and possible trip to the salvage yard... -Thanks again for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1 This code will set the MIL "Service Engine Soon" light. It's easy to fix, though. This oxygen sensor is on the front, below the dipstick, just above the flange between the exhaust manifold and the crossover pipe that goes under the engine. The connector is just above the sensor; make sure that it is clean and tight. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Pretty easy....oxygen sensor was loose...a quick fix. Check engine light (which has been on for about a week) went off after reset....hasn't come back on. It's funny though, if I'd taken the eldorado to a dealership I would have paid around $100 for them to do that! So yeah thanks for the help! I'm dropping the car off tomorow at my mechanic (will be ready for pick up on Friday afternoon)...my engine sounds like a diesel with loud tapping lifters and constantly had the "low oil pressure" light going off whenever I was at idle...I assumed it was the oil pump going out but that's only half the problem- even with the replacement oil pump I went from 4 1/2 pounds to around 6 pounds of pressure at idle and the light is still going off...the mechanic is going to remove the oil pan a replace the screen (where oil is sucked up). Going to be around 7 hours labor and around $700 (the service manual calls for 10.2 hours labor but instead of "lifting" the engine out and doing an R&R, he's going to drop the trans axle a few inches and slide out oil pan from there). darn, I wish I still had the time and free garage to be able to do these things! Oh well...slowly but surely I'm tackling my to-do list on my car...next will be to fix my suspension problems (codes above^ reply)...the "service ride control" and "stability reduced" message comes on EVERYTIME that car reaches a speed of over 50 MPH (never under those speeds). Thanks again for the quick fix Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Consider that the crankshaft bolt needs to be re-torqued, if the crank bolt is not at proper torque, you will not achieve proper oil pressure. Also what oil are you using? Type and viscosity? Do you have the case half leak? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I have no oil leaks and I'm using heavy weight oil so that I can quite the lifters down...the guy who owned the car before me didn't know what maintenance meant I think because I'm pretty positive there's a bunch sludge and crap caked at the bottom of my oil pan...I have good compression and have no engine knock...the only thing left to get that oil pressure up is basically that mesh screen R&R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quadsourcemark Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I checked the codes in my car for the first time today....15 in all. I checked for some info on the codes and got what they meant....anybody know the easiest way to tackle these? Is the suspension on my car simply not working? Any help is appreciated...thanks so much ROAD SUSPENSION SYSTEM Rssc 1760 DTC C1760 LF Position Sensor Input Fault Rssc 1761 DTC C1761 RF Position Sensor Input Fault Rssc 1780 DTC C1780 Loss of Steering Position Signal BODY CONTROL MODULE Pzmb 0533 DTC B0533 Fuel Sensor Feedback Shorted High Pzmb 1552 (?) Pzmb 1558 (?) TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM Tcsc 1223 DTC C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 Tcsc 1224 DTC C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 Tcsc 1251 DTC C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction Tcsc 1255 DTC C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction Tcsc 1282 DTC C1282 Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction Tcsc 1286 DTC C1286 Steering/Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction Pcmp 0154 DTC P0154 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1 Pcmp 0603 DTC P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset Ipcb 1552 (?) Did you determine if the codes are current or in memory? Since it's your first time checking the codes you may want to delete them all and re-check for current codes. That way you know it's current. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I have no oil leaks and I'm using heavy weight oil so that I can quite the lifters down...the guy who owned the car before me didn't know what maintenance meant I think because I'm pretty positive there's a bunch sludge and crap caked at the bottom of my oil pan...I have good compression and have no engine knock...the only thing left to get that oil pressure up is basically that mesh screen R&R Keep in mind that if the crank bolt is NOT torqued up to spec, you will get low oil pressure.... DO NOT overlook that since you have already changed the oil pump.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I'll let the mechanic know when I drop off the car tomorow to verify the torque of the crank bolt...will save me several hundred dollars if that is the case Just out of curiosity, wouldn't I have an oil leak if it wasn't torqued to spec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 See this thread http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13644 more info http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=14705 We are talking about the crankshaft pulley bolt, if it is not to spec, the pump will slip and not pump adequately, it is NOT related to anything that can leak. See the above thread. There is a GM service bulletin on torquing the crank bolt also if the oil pressure is not to spec. DEFINATELY post your results, I have occasional oil pressure lights also.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I'll post them...I called the mechanic and let him know to check the crank bolt before doing anything tomorow when I drop off my car... I'll find out around noon the diagnosis and post it later in the afternoon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I'll post them...I called the mechanic and let him know to check the crank bolt before doing anything tomorow when I drop off my car... I'll find out around noon the diagnosis and post it later in the afternoon Later tonight I will post the bulletin information, if I can locate it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I assumed it was the oil pump going out but that's only half the problem- even with the replacement oil pump I went from 4 1/2 pounds to around 6 pounds of pressure at idle and the light is still going off 6 psi at idle is just fine. Your problem may be a bad oil pressure sensor. Replace it with an A/C Delco sensor before spending $700 to R & R the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I assumed it was the oil pump going out but that's only half the problem- even with the replacement oil pump I went from 4 1/2 pounds to around 6 pounds of pressure at idle and the light is still going off 6 psi at idle is just fine. Your problem may be a bad oil pressure sensor. Replace it with an A/C Delco sensor before spending $700 to R & R the pump. While that's true Ranger, he has spoken about chatter that concerns me, he says "my engine sounds like a diesel with loud tapping lifters and constantly had the "low oil pressure" light going off whenever I was at idle". If there were no chatter, I would agree, but it sounds ominous. He should connect an oil pressure gage to see what he gets at idle however before spending the big bucks. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Seeing as it was not cared for, perhaps a can of MMO would also be in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Into day 6....still waiting for mechanic to finish car....he's taking forever! He said he ran into issues with removing the exhaust bolts...some corrosion...so yeah when I get the final diagnosis I'll post it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Car will be ready today at noon (I dropped it off Thursday morning!)...the problem was the tube that is inside the oil pan was bent...this was causing the car to suck air and oil to the oil pump. Apparently, the oil pan had been recently replaced (the guy who owned it before me must have crunched the oil pan in over a bump) and the tube where the oil pump sucks oil in was crushed in and never replaced during the oil pan R&R. Easy fix....but because I've had to wait ALMOST A WEEK to get my car fixed I'm getting charged $750-$800 for the labor...mechanic is also replacing the engine mount brackets (one was aparently busted) at cost (the 3 of them cost around $75 I think he said), passenger side CV boot (the rubber was mangled) at cost ($125), replacement coolant resevoir (the piece sticking out towards the right side of the engine when looking at the car from the front....the piece busted off and I have 1/10 an inch to work with for the clamp on the hose) no charge (I supplied the new resevoir from the junkyard), replacement driver side door seal at no charge (I provided new seal from dealership...the old seal contracted and I had alot of rode noise), some conector that was hanging done on the underside of the car at cost ($3) that I didn't know about, and a transmission flush at cost (whatever chemical is used to flush the transmission...$17). So in a nutshell-the low oil pressure and the LOUD tapping lifters were caused by the tube that sucks oil from the oil pan to the oil pump being bent which allowed the tube to suck air as well. The mechanic is an honest guy and that's why I like him but really just takes too f*ing long to complete a job...great at keeping long-term customers but bad at business (how can you run a business off of some small jobs and one big job generating nothing more than a couple thousand in a week?) IF ANYBODY HAS THESE ISSUES WITH LOW OIL PRESSURE-NEW OIL PUMP-GOOD SENSOR COMBO AND NOISY LIFTERS E-MAIL ME AND I WILL LET YOU KNOW IN DETAIL WHAT MY CAR WAS DOING PRIOR TO FIXING....COULD SAVE SOME MONEY AND A HEADACHE WHEN TRYING TO TROUBLESHOOT PROBLEM! Next on the to-do list is to get that driver's side window fixed (motor good...it's the switch assembly)! Thanks everyone for all of your input...hope my expierence can help someone else in the future! -Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 The mechanic is an honest guy and that's why I like him but really just takes too f*ing long to complete a job...great at keeping long-term customers but bad at business (how can you run a business off of some small jobs and one big job generating nothing more than a couple thousand in a week?) You are very lucky to have a mechanic that does not slam bang a job to complete it, don't complain about good quality work and give him a killer tip. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 The mechanic is an honest guy and that's why I like him but really just takes too f*ing long to complete a job...great at keeping long-term customers but bad at business (how can you run a business off of some small jobs and one big job generating nothing more than a couple thousand in a week?) You are very lucky to have a mechanic that does not slam bang a job to complete it, don't complain about good quality work and give him a killer tip. yeah despite my frusteration i'm gonna give him $100 tip because he's honest and saving me alot of money in the long run. I guess he learned that tearing apart a northstar is a little bit more complicated than it seems and I learned that patience is a virtue. I actually went off on him on Monday because the car wasn't completed...I called back 5 mins later and smoothed things over. I have a temper like nothing else but this time I think stowing the temper did more good than harm. To begin with, it's hard to find a good mechanic who will even touch our cars...add in some greed and quick shotty work and boom the odds are stacked against us. I'll stick with this mechanic...just next time I'll make a mental note to double the time it takes to do any work LOL! I really wish I still had the time and garage space to be able to do this work myself... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Let me add that these cars are NOT hard to work on, IF you are familiar with them. The key is being familiar with them. The NEXT time he works on it, give him a link to this site, we can help him a lot. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Give him a FSM and let him have a couple of hours to use it to plan a job before beginning. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Give him a FSM and let him have a couple of hours to use it to plan a job before beginning. Good Idea, you will make his job go faster. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache13 Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 I personally prefer the "go to the gym" method and get some muscle on his 140 pound body so that he has the strength to loosen the exhaust bolts! LOL Iv'e never seen a grown man in his 40's that skinny...but again I'm reminded that I had quite a bit of extra work done because of his mess-up...and I'm reminded that he was honest the entire time........From the earlier post- after I bought my Eldorado I went to 2 mechanics to get some work done and "they don't work on Cadillacs". Econolube wouldn't even change out my spark plugs a few months ago (I wound up doing the easy front 4 myself and saved the back 4 for a buddy of mine)...Maybe just an isolated bad expierence with finding decent mechanics to do work on my car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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