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About apache13

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)
  • Birthday 04/17/1985

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Denver, Colorado
  • Interests
    -not too much time for anything! Hoping to graduate with B.S. in Finance fall semester 2008 (one more year yeah!)<br />

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1997 Eldorado ETC
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Where is the actual EVAP solenoid located? How is it's accessability? Thanks Jims_97_ETC, I really do appreciate it man -Tony
  2. Hey all! It's been a while since I've posted anything...I've been checking in time to time though on some posts. I poured over the O2 Sensor posts but I'm still kind of confused on how I should start my troubleshooting. Within the last week, I've been pulling: PCM P0135 PCM P0147 PCM P0155 PCM P1441 and these codes are all current (I've reset a few times and they come back right away). I checked the O2 fuses under the hood hoping for a quick fix but they're good. I've read that the next step should be to check the common ground for the O2 sensors (which I'll be doing Thursday on my day off); what do I need to do after this? I'm pretty sure it must be electrical because they all just shot codes together and I'm pretty confident that the ground is fine (I'll verify Thursday). Any help/recommendation is greatly appreciated! -Tony
  3. Sounds like the fuel door itself is stuck. Get someone to push the button whilst you hold some sort of wig between the fuel door, that could help. PERFECT! Had my buddy push the button in the car while I put pressure on the fuel door. Has this ever happened to anyone else? I can't believe the emergency fuel release cable didn't work.
  4. 1997 Eldorado ETC I know this sounds really wierd but I can't open fuel release! I verified the "VALET" in the glove box wasn't turned on (when on it disables fuel and trunk release) when I pushed the fuel release button and I went to the trunk to pull the emergency fuel release cable...nothing. The release cable in the trunk can't be pulled- I pull and it doesn't even move. When I press the fuel release button on the dash I hear it click. I'm down to 1/4 tank of gas....how the heck do I get that thing opened? I'm open to any suggestion. PS- I even sadley hit the fuel door twice after everything....I hope my car can find it in her heart to forgive me -Tony
  5. Thanks alot man...I'll be doing that tommorow. This is the first time that WD-40 has failed me...are the doors just too heavy? I dunno, two things that have always served me well have been WD-40 and duck tape...the world must be comming to an end LOL -Tony
  6. I need some suggestions...for no reason whatsoever (other than possible cold weather), my passenger door hinges started making a loud noise everytime I open and close the door....I'm always the first to pull out a can of WD-40 on a friends car when their doors squeak because it has always driven me nuts. I've tried WD-40 (quit a bit of it actually; spraying as I open and shut the door)...noise still there. I tried this thick clear lubricant a friend gave me....nothing. Does anybody have any suggestions? I've had no accidents or anything. This is driving me nuts because I broke my ankle on some ice last week and my friends and girlfriend have been driving me around in my car. Should I be worried that my doorhinge or something is bent? Everything looks perfect to me. [THE NOISE IS LOUD LIKE A DEEP GROAN; LIKE WALKING ON AN OLD 100-YEAR FLOOR] -Thanks so much for any input. I appreciate it 100% -Tony
  7. This is probably a stupid question but I'm asking- what oil weight around freezing temperatures would cause the additional 2-3 second cranking? This last week we've had some 25-30 degree mornings and she's been hesitant on cranking..........
  8. What about having an emmision's test? If you don't have a scan tool you can just have the car emmissioned if you have a chance. The test will give you a good picture of your overall emmisions and answer the phantom code/bad gas question... Do you stick to the same gas station when you fill up? (I stick to premium from Shell when I fill up my Eldo)? I tend to avoid Mom and Pop gas stations (even if they are a few cents cheaper than Shell) because of the 'bad gas' issue (the mom and pop stations tend to sell alot of reguluar gas as opposed to premium gas so it sits longer).
  9. How about the next time spark plugs are do for changing I'll do your wife's 3800 and you can do my northstar! LOL
  10. Even though I value honest people and shame crooks and people who take advantage of others.....I'd be all over that pontiac to tell the truth. Take swap...sell pontiac....buy another caddy...bank the rest for the caddy's allowance. You'll be able to sleep again after a week
  11. I think the 3800 was easier than the northstar ....it was easier to rotate the engine in my Grand Prix for the back 3 and I didn't have anything in my way to remove when I rotated the engine (even with the supercharger) unlike the issue I ran into with my eldo...
  12. Also don't forget...if you wind up replacing 1, replace them all...
  13. I would check the front 4 which is really easy....if that's not the issue then the fouled sparkplug is one of the back 4 and from there I would call my mechanic to: 1. verify the code is valid and 2. perform necesary R&R of sparkplug. You also should do some further research to discover why it became fouled up...the life of a stock sparkplug is generally 100K+miles (HIGHER than that probably!). I only replaced mine beause I was at 130K and thought they were due for changing (all 8 of them were actually fine when they were pulled). I would personally rather have a good buddy or a mechanic do the back 4...faster and more efficient (less than an hour) than me taking all Saturday at a snail's pace.
  14. Having no expierence of ever doing this but a sharp electrical foundation, I would troubleshoot like this (assuming all else fails): you said you have good fuses/breakers....-dash light is out....-the brake lights are staying on except 1 when depressed........I would get a wiring schematic for the brake lights and follow it through checking the connections/wires because you have continiuity which is leaving the brake lights on but a problem with breaking continuity (the lights going off)...maybe the switch that controls this is located somewhere on/near brake pedal itself. Start there and work your way to the brakelights (I think you should hear a click if you lay there and press the brake with your hands). After you're done with that (the brake lights could cause an accident) tackle the instrument light.....check the manual for removing the cluster and check that bulb/associated circutry. I hope this may help troubleshooting if you can't locate the problem. Just step back and think of "when I do this the car does this"...again hope it helps