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Rear knuckle replacement


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I got a rear knuckle assembly from my local scrap yard that was in good shape and last night I installed it.

The following is the rough procedure:

1) Allowing wheel assembly to hang, support body and remove tire

2) With body supported, rack up rear wheel assembly to compress spring to take the spring tension off of the assembly, support this good so that the spring does NOT come flying out and kill you.

3) Remove the caliper (hang it up so it does not hang from its hose)

4) Remove the caliper support frame and pads

5) Remove the rotor

6) Remove the hub bearings ABS connector at the rear

7) Remove the 4 bolts holding the hub bearing

8) My hub bearing was frozen on to the knuckle, I used a heavy hammer on the flange (turning the flange so as to not damage the flange and bearing and used a large chisle to remove the hub bearing it was stuck badly but eventually came loose (once I could get a chisle between the hub bearing and knuckle it moved fast). There is no place to use a puller here. I actually had practice removing the hub bearing as my new knuckle, from the scrap yard, had the bearing still attached.

9) Remove the trailing arm/toe rod bolt, once I removed the toe rod, my knuckle had a lot of play in it, both the top and the bottom bushings

10) Remove the top and bottom bolts along with the electrical connector bracket and remove the knuckle.

11) Reverse this procedure to reinstall, but make sure you torque all bolts to spec and grease the caliper sliders

No more vibration on braking from my rear and bumps are no longer radiated through the car

Here is the exposed hub bearing with the rotor and caliper removed

RearKnuckle001.jpg

Here is the hub bearing removed from the knuckle.

RearKnuckle002.jpg

The knuckle is held in three locations, the top and bottom bushings and at the toe arm

RearKnuckle004.jpg

Here is the bad upper bushing (which is actually a cross axis ball joint)

RearUpperControlArm002-2.jpg

Here is a photo of the knuckle out, circled is the toe arm connection, notice floor jack holding the lower control arm, be safe!

RearKnuckle005.jpg

Old knuckle:

RearKnuckle008.jpg

Side view of new knuckle, notice how nice the bushing rubber seals are

RearKnuckle007.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Nice Photo essay. Glad to hear another successful repair! I bet you saved over $700 compared to what the local Dealer would charge for installation of new parts?

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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Nice Photo essay. Glad to hear another successful repair! I bet you saved over $700 compared to what the local Dealer would charge for installation of new parts?

Easily Bruce, the part through GMotors is about $380 if I recall so you can tack on quite a bit more if the dealer did the job, the job is actually very easy, probably only an hour for me to do. If I had a lift, it would have been much easier. Next job, the front engine mount, UGH

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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By the way, thanks to Stefan for his experience and photos on the rear knuckle, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I recently replaced both rear knuckles, sway bar links and sway bar bushings on my 94 eldo. Glad you found used replacements. I tried to but couldn't wait any longer. GM dealership was $550 each.

I bought mine for $370 each. Just a note... I was a little perplexed when trying to install the lower part of the knuckle. The sleave inside the lower bushing was longer than the old one, so it wouldn't slide in. As it turns out, the two spacer clips on the lower control arm are no longer used.The sleeve is now machined flat instead of being beveled and is an exact fit. Took a while to figure out though.

Also on a different not, I swapped out the Yokohama 520s for Michelen Destinys and the noise and ride is like night and day. I couldn't believe it.

Kent

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I recently replaced both rear knuckles, sway bar links and sway bar bushings on my 94 eldo. Glad you found used replacements. I tried to but couldn't wait any longer. GM dealership was $550 each.

I bought mine for $370 each. Just a note... I was a little perplexed when trying to install the lower part of the knuckle. The sleave inside the lower bushing was longer than the old one, so it wouldn't slide in. As it turns out, the two spacer clips on the lower control arm are no longer used.The sleeve is now machined flat instead of being beveled and is an exact fit. Took a while to figure out though.

Also on a different not, I swapped out the Yokohama 520s for Michelen Destinys and the noise and ride is like night and day. I couldn't believe it.

Kent

Kent the exact same thing happened to me with the spacers, I removed them and while it was a tight fit, the bottom went in. At first I was a little concerned but it fit find, but you are right, a few choice words came out of my mouth for sure when that happened... Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I recently replaced both rear knuckles, sway bar links and sway bar bushings on my 94 eldo. Glad you found used replacements. I tried to but couldn't wait any longer. GM dealership was $550 each.

I bought mine for $370 each. Just a note... I was a little perplexed when trying to install the lower part of the knuckle. The sleave inside the lower bushing was longer than the old one, so it wouldn't slide in. As it turns out, the two spacer clips on the lower control arm are no longer used.The sleeve is now machined flat instead of being beveled and is an exact fit. Took a while to figure out though.

Also on a different not, I swapped out the Yokohama 520s for Michelen Destinys and the noise and ride is like night and day. I couldn't believe it.

Kent

Kent the exact same thing happened to me with the spacers, I removed them and while it was a tight fit, the bottom went in. At first I was a little concerned but it fit find, but you are right, a few choice words came out of my mouth for sure when that happened... Thanks

Going back to your photos, I see the flat machined end of your bottom sleeve. I'm thinking the reason you found that good knuckle, was because it is a replacement piece with lower miles on

it

Kent

PS I didn't know about not re-using the rear toe link bolt until I was into the process and none were available. Re-used the bolts as a matter of necessity. I really don't understand why not, they looked fine. What do you think? I can still get new ones if necessary.

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I recently replaced both rear knuckles, sway bar links and sway bar bushings on my 94 eldo. Glad you found used replacements. I tried to but couldn't wait any longer. GM dealership was $550 each.

I bought mine for $370 each. Just a note... I was a little perplexed when trying to install the lower part of the knuckle. The sleave inside the lower bushing was longer than the old one, so it wouldn't slide in. As it turns out, the two spacer clips on the lower control arm are no longer used.The sleeve is now machined flat instead of being beveled and is an exact fit. Took a while to figure out though.

Also on a different not, I swapped out the Yokohama 520s for Michelen Destinys and the noise and ride is like night and day. I couldn't believe it.

Kent

Kent the exact same thing happened to me with the spacers, I removed them and while it was a tight fit, the bottom went in. At first I was a little concerned but it fit find, but you are right, a few choice words came out of my mouth for sure when that happened... Thanks

Going back to your photos, I see the flat machined end of your bottom sleeve. I'm thinking the reason you found that good knuckle, was because it is a replacement piece with lower miles on

it

Kent

PS I didn't know about not re-using the rear toe link bolt until I was into the process and none were available. Re-used the bolts as a matter of necessity. I really don't understand why not, they looked fine. What do you think? I can still get new ones if necessary.

I agree, I have been told that 99% are bad in the scrap yard. That toe bolt is very heavy duty, I didn't read the manual when I did this job, I am sure it states to replace it is that right? I am surprised, its case hardened. Personally I wouldn't worry about it, I did notice however that it had a blue substance on the threads maybe that is thread lock. I need to read my manual now, all I need is for that bolt to back out at highway speed and the rear wheel turn on the ball joints, :lol::o Time to read the manual....

I had not considered that mine was a replacement knuckle but you are probably right, even though it was in great shape, the bottom ball joint has a tiny bit of play in it, but it was WAY better than mine.. Glad we compared notes, thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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For those researching rear knuckle replacement, here are a couple of threads that we have explored the rear knuckle in. Please read through them for some background, they might answer your questions:

Stefan's rear knuckle threads

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=11363&hl=

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=10788&hl=

Can I just replace the "bushings"? Is there an aftermarket bushing? These questions have been explored in depth, in actuality these are not bushings that are going bad, they are "cross axis ball joints". I contacted MOOG to see if they would produce a bushing replacement and they were unable to as "its NOT a bushing", it's a ball joint. My answer was, well, you produce BALL JOINTS :rolleyes: .....and the old cross axis joint can be pressed out according to Stefans and a fellow from cadillacforums found out, but there is no replacement solution. >>Insert big DUH here for GM's forethought in this matter<<

See this thread:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...526&hl=Moog

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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  • 8 years later...

I spent 2 years speaking with a MOOG representative who eventually retired. I am very happy that they finally produced upper and lower rear knuckle bushings for the cadillacs that need them. I bought them today for my friends 98 Eldorado. Ill post photos in this thread of the job. I bought them at rockauto, for about $20 each.

scan0018_zpszkmhmyqm.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I have done these enough to do them in my sleep.

I have had excellent luck with mevotech also.

I just did them on my new to me Deville

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I spent 2 years speaking with a MOOG representative who eventually retired. I am very happy that they finally produced upper and lower rear knuckle bushings for the cadillacs that need them. I bought them today for my friends 98 Eldorado. Ill post photos in this thread of the job. I bought them at rockauto, for about $20 each.

Wow , almost 9 years and finally a service part(s)

Good job Mike

Edited by clarkz71
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Thanks clarkz71, I would like to think I had something to do with it!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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  • 3 years later...

You may need alignment if the alignment had been done with the knuckle bushings already bad.

The front axle is aligned by the rear axle. Therefore if the rear was off the front will be off during alignment.

Jackstand and wood should be fine

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I agree,

It never hurts to get a good alignment after replacing parts and if one has not been done in a while.  

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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