9000rpm Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Been thinking about getting a different car for a while now and have looked at soo many that have caught my eyes, but I am just too picky and don't have a million dollars to spend. But one that recently has tickled my fancy is my friend's dad's 1994 eldorado black on black, with the chrome wheels and all the fancy stuff, and only 94,000 miles. He just got the radiator replaced, because the old one had a leak apparently. And he tells me that the 02 sensor and some other one need to be replaced for the check engine light to go away. Its a very nice looking car and the most important thing is I like it, but being a 1994 its got a hand full of minor cosmetic problems here and there on the interior. He told me he would take $3100 for it, which sounds decent to me. But, me being the cheapskate I am will probably offer him 2500-2800 for it if I decide to buy it. What I would like to know is if it is possible and if anyone hear has done it without too much hassle to replace the whole center console with a newer one from maybe a 96 or a 97. I can't stand the look of the shifter and the cheap plastic that surrounds the whole thing. Especially the ash tray that folds down, the plastic has warped slightly and just looks like crap. Also the hard rubber seal or whatever it is that surrounds the edges of the rear windshield and makes contact with the body looks like it should be replaced. The top corners are peeled up and could potentially cause a leak or rust, and just plain looks crappy. I don't know if this is a common problem, but being a black car it probly has absorbed a lot of heat and dried up the adhesive that seals this rubber gasket thing. What I'd like to know is how much it would cost approximately for a replacement one and if there is anything to watch out for when doing it. If anyone has ANY helpful information that will solve these problems I face ...especially the center console, please express your ideas. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Welcome to the board, 9K! I have a '94 ETC (purchased 10/2005) and love it. Lucky for you to get the black on black. IMO, if this car is in good shape, $3100 is a steal. Make sure to check codes by holding (simultaneously) the 'OFF' and 'Warmer' controls on the CCC (Climate Control Center) for about 5 seconds. Report your findings, including history codes, here. The helpful folks on this board will assist you. As far as the console goes, mine is plastic/"wood" grain and I think it looks OK. Not sure what yours looks like - post a pic and I'll see what I can do for you. I'm not sure about the compatibility of different model years, although consoles are fairly easy to make work. I buy and sell used LKQ Caddy/GM parts on the side and will keep an eye out for something for you. The only thing I can't stand about the 92-94 MY Eldo/Sevilles are the cup holders. They are as useful as teats on a boar. My shifter was worn out and I replaced mine with an aftermarket one from ebay. You can see the way it looks in the following post: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=12167&hl= You don't have to like it, it's just a suggestion The part that's wearing on your rear w/s is the rear w/s surround molding. As I just replaced my windshield last week, these moldings are NOT cheap and not available (generally) in the aftermarket glass world. My glass guy eventually had to go to Cadillac and get a black rubber molding which, at cost for him, was $130. Unfortunately, the black+chrome molding is discontinued and unavailable. Make sure to have a reputable glass shop in your area do the work...trust me it's worth it, pay the money. Others will probably chime in with other advice; please do some searches on "coolant servicing" on this forum and maintain your cooling system religiously. You'll want to make sure this is done on a car with that many miles. Unfortunately I have to cut this short as I have to work, but being a part of the '94 Eldo familiy I felt obliged to post Good luck: Mark <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 The base cars used dash colored vinyl (misprint?) surfaced material for the shifter and ash tray. The real fix for this would be a good eBay STS shifter wood piece. Ashtray and all. It was a common 'upgrade' for some of us in years past..pops right in.. By the way... it is not plastic...it is real wood. Was a $700 part new. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 I've seen three different trim variations on the tops of '94 Eldorado/Seville consoles. One is a padded vinyl piece (no "wood") that matches the rest of the console. The second is the padded vinyl piece as described above with a thin plastic/fake wood aplique glued on the top surface. Mine was of this type (see the attached photo - sorry about the quality of the photo, it's the best one I have - I sold the car about 6 months ago). This sounds like the type in the car you're looking at. The plastic/wood tended to warp and buckle in the heat over time. If you look closely at my photo, you'll see the padded vinyl piece around the edges of the "wood". Also, the "wood' sits higher than the surrounding parts of the console. These look fairly decent if you can find one that isn't buckled. The third type looks like mmarinov's. These are real wood (if mmarinov's is plastic, it's possibly an aftermarket part). They are recessed into the surrounding parts of the console and have a better fit around the ash tray cover. The real wood ones, as Logan says, can be quite pricey and I've heard that it's hard to find a used one that isn't cracked. Another possible option is to go with an aftermarket wood trim kit. If you go this route, be sure the color of the aftermarket trim matches the rest of the wood in your car! Check this link for an example of what I mean: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?act...ost&id=3022 My original shifter handle was badly worn so I replaced it with one from the older style "baby" Eldorado/Seville. They are are interchangeable. This type of cosmetic issue can usually be solved at low cost if you are a little creative. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Thanks for the quick responses. Those are all very good ideas. Something that pops in around the shifter and includes the ash tray sounds like it would work very well for me. And I like the look of that straight up and down push button shifter. I'll go see if I have time after work today to go get some pics. But I just woke up and I'm almost late, see ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 The third type looks like mmarinov's. These are real wood (if mmarinov's is plastic, it's possibly an aftermarket part). They are recessed into the surrounding parts of the console and have a better fit around the ash tray cover. The real wood ones, as Logan says, can be quite pricey and I've heard that it's hard to find a used one that isn't cracked. Mine's factory and matches Logan's picture - just didn't think of it as real wood. I've seen these on ebay and they go for $125-$200 typically. <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Well what I'd like to do, if I get the car is alter the already existing one so I can get it to look as much like this ( http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?act...ost&id=3022 ) as possible, or replace it with a center console like that. It's mostly the shape that I like and the part that surrounds the shifter. I like that round raised look not the square dropped down look where dust and crap will slowly get into. "One is a padded vinyl piece (no "wood") that matches the rest of the console." That is what the car has. The only wood in it is around the vents and doors. well breaks over, back to work i go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breeza_Brown Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 that's horrible! who put the that kit in there? maybe it faded with time or something. there's no way some one put that kit in while it was that color. Everyday Is Saturday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 that's horrible! who put the that kit in there? maybe it faded with time or something. there's no way some one put that kit in while it was that color. Yeah beats me, I don't think someone knows how to match wood very well. Anywho, I didn't have time to go check it out again today. But one thing I forgot to mention and was thinking about, is how important are these plastic or rubber bushings? (see attachment) The ones on the car look worn/crushed. Oh and why do some of the older engines have those 8 bolts with the bushings, they look unnecessary, which I'm assuming is why the newer ones don't have that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 I agree, the later console design is an improvement over the early design. Before you start into a conversion project like that, be sure to do your homework. You could well discover that there's a lot more to it than you thought at first! Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Oh and why do some of the older engines have those 8 bolts with the bushings, they look unnecessary, which I'm assuming is why the newer ones don't have that. On the '93-'94 cars the intake is part of the beauty cover, thus the eight bolts. On the newer cars, the beauty cover just "covers" the intake. Charles Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 I agree, the later console design is an improvement over the early design. Before you start into a conversion project like that, be sure to do your homework. You could well discover that there's a lot more to it than you thought at first! So true...the '96 had a completly different electrical system compared to '92-'95. OBDII vs OBDI...differnet radio...different HVAC...different IPC. The list goes on and on... It could be done. But the $$$ needed would surpase the value of the car. Thats not to say, you cannot install a correct version floor shifter in a column car. Thats been done. You just need the same year parts and system. See attached pics. Before and after floor shift mod. 2001 Fake DTS. It can be done but the electronics all need to work together... Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Re the grommets on the intake bolts - 93 and 94 models have a 2 piece intake manifold. The "beauty cover" is actually the top of the intake. I believe there are actually 12 bolts that hold it on. The rubber grommets were not part of the original design. GM issued a revised bolt kit for these cars after several incidents in which the intake manifold broke during backfires. The grommets let the intake top lift to relieve pressure if you have a backfire. I think later models are equipped with a pressure relief valve that serves the same purpose. The risk with bad grommets could be an intake leak at the seam between the 2 halves. Mine were also going bad, but I never had an intake leak... To get new grommets, you have to buy a new bolt kit that includes the 12 bolts and grommets. Its still available from GM. Not a big deal...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Re the grommets on the intake bolts - 93 and 94 models have a 2 piece intake manifold. The "beauty cover" is actually the top of the intake. I believe there are actually 12 bolts that hold it on. The rubber grommets were not part of the original design. GM issued a revised bolt kit for these cars after several incidents in which the intake manifold broke during backfires. The grommets let the intake top lift to relieve pressure if you have a backfire. I think later models are equipped with a pressure relief valve that serves the same purpose. The risk with bad grommets could be an intake leak at the seam between the 2 halves. Mine were also going bad, but I never had an intake leak... To get new grommets, you have to buy a new bolt kit that includes the 12 bolts and grommets. Its still available from GM. Not a big deal...... Just what I needed to know! Kinda scary though that it can backfire like that and that it happened enough to make them redesign it. "Before you start into a conversion project like that, be sure to do your homework. You could well discover that there's a lot more to it than you thought at first!" Well, that is exactly why I started this thread. It would be nice if this fit into the square pocket around the shifter on the 1994, but I highly doubt it does Its from a 2004 cts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Found out which sensors are giving codes. It is the oxygen sensor and a sensor for the suspension system. Would that usually mean there is something wrong with the suspension system or a sensor itself needs to be replaced? Or both?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Found out which sensors are giving codes. It is the oxygen sensor and a sensor for the suspension system. Would that usually mean there is something wrong with the suspension system or a sensor itself needs to be replaced? Or both?! Are they "current" or "history" codes? The suspension could be just a corroded plug or broken wire. What are the codes? I have a 94 Manual I might be able to help diagnose if you give me the codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Well its mine now. He sold it to me for $2800. I'll have to get some photos tommorow. I found out it seems to have a oil leak somewhere from the bottom of the engine, I'll get pics of that too. So I went to this website for details on operating the self diagnostic system http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html#ope then I went outside and did a check, it came up with these codes: PO13 - Right Oxygen Sensor not ready S027 - Right Rear Solenoid open circuit S044 - Lift or Dive Signal Fault These all came up as history codes. So what does that mean? And should I go through and write down what it comes up with for data, input, and outputs in those systems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 If they're all history codes, I would write them down for reference (which you've done) then clear them and see if they come back. Congratulations on your purchase, the '94 Eldorado is a great car! I loved mine - attached is a picture of it for old time's sake. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted February 11, 2007 Report Share Posted February 11, 2007 Congratulations on your purchase, the '94 Eldorado is a great car! I loved mine - attached is a picture of it for old time's sake. Ahh, yes - good looking car you had, Poobah! What a steal for $2,800. <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 I got some pics of about where the oil is leaking from. Looks like someone put gasket sealant or something of that sort all around the oil pan and then somewhere above that. Hope it's nothin serious. It's getting inspected tommorow morning. ...Now for some reason I can't attach pictures, and I resized these a ton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Probably where the oil is coming from Liquid on ground is moisture from exhaust, where there are a couple pin hole leaks before the mufflers. Probably will replace them with some magnaflow or borla mufflers. I love the sound of the super 40 flowmasters but unfortunately they arent stainless steel. What is the inlet and outlet size of the y pipe that branches out to the two mufflers? I gotta get better pics, but unfortunately it starts to get dark shortly after I get out of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Found out which sensors are giving codes. It is the oxygen sensor and a sensor for the suspension system. Would that usually mean there is something wrong with the suspension system or a sensor itself needs to be replaced? Or both?! My 94 ETC has the RSS (road speed sensitve) electronic suspension and still has the original shocks at 91,000 miles. The front sensors have both failed at different times but junkyard parts have put it back right. Replacing the original shocks is spendy, over $500 each, unless you go to a conventional shock, adding a resistor to fool the electronics. Lots of info on that in the archives. The Northstar is a kick to drive- you didn't say what engine your potential purchase has. I would never buy an early Cad unless it had the Northstar engine. Northstars first installed in mid '93. The 94 Eldorado was released in two versions, the standard was 275 HP, and a 3.11 (might be 3.07) cruising differential. the ETC (Touring Coupe) had 295 HP and a 3.71 rear end. VERY FAST!! Torque steer in first and 2nd at WOT throttle is significant, such that turning the steering wheel is NOT necessary to move one lane to the left! Mine is also Black, but with natural tan leather interior. The clear coat is going but that is to be expected in Phoenix. two big problems occur with most Northstars, but likely they have been fixed by now. The headbolts pull out of the aluminum block, causing head gasket leaks. About 2 grand for someone to "timesert" both heads. the engine case seal leaks at the split line and the engine must be removed to repair it correctly. Mine was $2300, done under extended warranty, back in 2000. Finally, the water pump absolutely requires a special socket type tool to remove it. No big outlay but do not try to remove the pump without buying/renting the $30 socket. Regards, Jim in Phoenix Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Passed inspection, and I had that oil leak checked out, unfortunately its not from the oil pan like I had been hoping, they said it looks like its from the case seals somewhere, and they will not fix it, as much as they didn't want to tell me it they said I should take it to the dealership, get an estimate and go from there. They told me the car is in very good condition and it is worth getting the leak fixed. I need to get this done quickly though because it leaks quite a bit, its not a seap its an actual drip, and when the engine gets hot while driving it burns some of the oil which I can even smell from inside the car, plus you can see it smoking a little. Guess I'm gonna have to carry a couple quarts around with me incase it gets worse. So it's about $2300 to have this done? http://caddyinfo.onedgesolutions.com/howto/casehalf.htm (Case Half Seal Fix) Because I think thats what my car needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 I got quoted $1200 a few years back for a case half leak. I would say it is about $2000 maybe now. If you do the case halves also, do the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and check the heater fan housing for cracking while the engine is out and replace it. The housing on the older cars is very brittle and will shatter if hit and it is next to impossible to replace with the engine in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9000rpm Posted February 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Was that at a dealership that you were quoted $1200? And was that for just the case seals or with the rear main seal, and heater fan housing also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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