Dan Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 I had "low refrigerant" message on my dic. I refilled it using those home recharge kits. A week later I got the same message. I refilled it ,and yet again a week later the same message popped up. Obviously I have a leak. Does anybody know how I can go about finding it? Please help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Either an electronic leak detector or UV dye will pinpoint the leak. The UV dye is injected into the system and then after the A/C has been operating for a few minutes, the leak(s) will glow bright green when illuminated with a black light. The electronic detectors have a probe that uses a heated diode sensor to detect the leaking refrigerant. When refrigerant is detected, the "geiger counter" type signal increases in frequency almost to a solid tone. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFBonnett Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Dan, You probably do have a leak. That being said, I had the same problem sporadically with my '93, had the R12 topped off and the problem continued. Unplugged, cleaned, and reconnected all the connectors that plug into the A/C lines. That fixed it until the compressor failed a year later. FWIW YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Sometimes. a leak will leave a tell-tale oiley residue. I have been lucky a couple of times, stopping a leak by retightening the loose fitting. The best way for leak detection is what KHE said, you can't fool the sniffer. rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 When refrigerant is detected, the "geiger counter" type signal increases in frequency almost to a solid tone. I had a similar problem and ended up taking it to the dealer. They had a flat rate (half hour labor) to find the leak. They had the "geiger counter" and spent over an hour trying to find the leak. It was finally discovered that the evaporator (looks like a heater core - behind the dash) had a leak. They only charged me for a 1/2 hour. I replaced the evaporator myself and took it back for a fill/check for another 1/2 hr rate + R134a. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddyman Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 pep boys will do a leak test for like 25 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 I bought my Tek-Mate heated diode leak detector on ebay last summer for $52! It was in brand new condition and appeared to be used very little. I couldn't believe I won the auction as other identical units were selling for $130. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted April 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 Thanks for the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYES Posted April 9, 2004 Report Share Posted April 9, 2004 Did you use a "home remedy" can and hose kit, or did you use the proper manifold gauges to introduce the R-12/R-134 into the system? More importantly, did you purge the lines of air, before you introduced it into the system? If not, you just created an eventual leak, in your system. Refridgerent, mixed with air, produces a "gas" that will eat away at all seals in the system. If you did, rent a vacuum pump, scavenge the system, and recharge it the proper way, without air! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 9, 2004 Report Share Posted April 9, 2004 More importantly, did you purge the lines of air, before you introduced it into the system? If not, you just created an eventual leak, in your system. Refridgerent, mixed with air, produces a "gas" that will eat away at all seals in the system. I have added many cans of refrigerant over the years with a DIY kit. Never perged the air or had a problem. Guess I was lucky. Also never knew about the gassing problem. The things I have learned on this site are amazing. Thanks for the advise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 12, 2004 Report Share Posted April 12, 2004 If the system is not completely empty, you can top it off with refrigerant without introducing air into the system. Be sure to let a little refrigerant escape from the filler hose to bleed off any air in the line. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STYES Posted April 18, 2004 Report Share Posted April 18, 2004 Response to Larry. Did you have the cars long enough, to experience a leak induced by your "error"? In an "empty" system, you have greater pressure from "the can" and therefore introducing only freon to the system. In a relatively "good" charged system, air can enter, as you are charging it on the "low"side. Refridgerant is a "reuseable" resource. It does not "wear" out. The compressors action varies the freon from a gas, to a liquid, per se. Air compresses, liquid does not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 19, 2004 Report Share Posted April 19, 2004 Styes, Yes, had them for many years after adding a can or two with no problems. Only once did I open the system and refilll without evacuating it. I knew better but thought I'd give it a try. Seemed to work fine but I wouldn't do that again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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