The Fred Posted October 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Good hell, My injectors don't have the bottom o-ring none of them What in the heck!!! MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 I can't be 100% sure but you don't have an O-ring on the bottom, you have a seal. See my link above to your SEAL KIT, there are 8 O-rings for the top to connect to the fuel rail and 8 seals for the bottom from what I can determine for 93 and 94 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Oh I missed that part about "compare to my car".. I thought it was showing my injector with an o-ring on the bottom I've seen that seal kit live and in person about six times and it doesn't have the one I need.. Since the heater hose custom made seal things I made didn't make any difference at all I guess I am back to needing injectors.. any last ditch ideas for fixing the injectors? Also: How do I go about cleaning the.. Phenolic spacer plates?? MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Can I jumper a hot wire to the injectors in order to test them? And hopefully make the connection to the power.. away from the fuel MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 In a word, NO... They are fired by the PCM via pulse width and the pulse is measured in milliseconds.. If you direct wire them you will fry them... You are getting off track again! You were on the lower seals, stay there till you eliminate that. When you lift the fuel rail does each injector have a lower seal? Are any damaged? If you are missing or if any are damaged, I would buy that O-ring/Seal assortment for less than $30 from Rockauto and replace all of them to eliminate the possiblity that you are loosing vacuum. Here is an interesting article on the FPR and injector operation posted by the GURU himself: Subject : RE: how does FPR work? MessageDate : 1/10/2004 12:00:52 AM Posted By : bbobynski Cadillac Year : 2003 Cadillac Model : 05 Bonneville GXP Message : The fuel pressure regulator works pretty good...LOL Seriously....The fuel injector is basically just a valve that is opened by an electric solenoid. There must be some fuel pressure on the injector so that when it opens the fuel will be forced thru. The pressure that the system was designed to operate at varies depending on the injectors used, the system, the engine, the fuel pump, the fuel, etc.... Typically port fuel injected systems operate somewhere in the range of 40 to 60 PSI as a general rule of thumb. The first job of the fuel pressure regulator, then, is to maintain this basic level of pressure on the system. Since the fuel rail supplies fuel to each of the injectors around the top of the engine if the fuel pressure in the rail is controlled then each injector will see the same pressure. Basically the fuel pressure regulator functions by bleeding off excess fuel back to the tank to maintain the desired pressure. That is why there are two fuel lines...a supply line and a fuel return line. The supply line is always under the pressure that the regulator is regulating at and the fuel return line is not under any pressure, per se, it just routes the fuel back to the tank. The FPR does this via a poppet valve and seat that is controlled by a a spring. The fuel pump supplies a constant flow of fuel to the fuel rail and the FPR is at the end of the rail. The pressure in the fuel rail that will unseat the check valve is determined by the load of the spring behind it. If the opening of the poppet valve or check valve is 0.5 inches square inches and the spring is compressed to a value of 20 pounds then a fuel pressure of 40 pounds per square inch (40 PSI) will force the valve open and the excess fuel will escape and travel down the fuel return line to the tank. The fuel pressure regulator on the port fuel injected engines, such as the 4.9 and the Northstar, controls the fuel pressure in the fuel rail so that the pressure drop across the injector is always constant. That is, the pressure drop from the fuel inlet of the injector to the tip of the injector, must always be constant so that the injector pulse width delivers a predictable amount of fuel. The "pulse width" is the amount of time the PCM holds the injector open. It is usually measured in milliseconds. For instance, it would be common to see an injector pulse width of 5.0 milliseconds. This is important because the whole basis of the fuel injection fuel delivery system is that the PCM can calculate how much fuel to deliver and then open the injector for a specific amount of time to allow that quantity of fuel to enter the port. You need to understand this because the only way the injector can do this is if the fuel pressure drop across the injector from the rail to the tip is constant. This would be relatively easy if the injector tip was in a constant pressure environment. It isn't in a port fuel injected engine as the tip of the injector is exposed to manifold vacuum. The manifold vacuum changes constantly with changes in the throttle, load, RPM, etc....so...the fuel pressure must constantly change to keep the pressure drop or the pressure differential across the injector constant. Since the simple spring in the fuel pressure regulator is not capable of comprehending any changes in vacuum the spring load is modified by a diapragm in the FPR. This diaphragm helps modulate the spring load to the check valve when vacuum sucks or pulls on it. In this fashion, when vacuum from the intake manifold pulls on the diaphragm it will change the load on the spring seat and the resulting fuel pressure required to unseat the valve will change. That is why there is a vacuum connection to the fuel pressure reguator. That is also why, if you put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail you will see a fixed, constant fuel pressure when the key is turn on and the engine is not running. When the engine starts, and manifold vacuum comes into being, the fuel pressure will now fluctuate, relative to the intake vacuum at the time. Since higher levels of vaccum in the intake tend to "pull" or "suck" fuel from the injector tip, there needs to be less positive fuel pressure on the back side of the injector to deliver the constant fuel pressure drop across the injector. As the vacuum drops to zero (as it is at wide open throttle..the WOT condition) the positive fuel pressure on the back side of the injector must increase to keep that pressure delta across the injector constant. And you will see the fuel pressure go to maximum when the vacuum is zero. In this type of system the fuel pump just dumbly pumps fuel at a constant volume to the engine all the time. It must pump enough fuel to be able to keep the fuel pressure constant even at maximum power, when a great deal of fuel is flowing thru the injectors and into the engine. This means that at idle, when very little fuel is flowing thru the injectors, most of the fuel is just bypassing the system at the FPR and going back to the tank. It just circulates constantly. This also explains why the engine will run poorly when the fuel pressure regulator acts up. If it sticks open and bypasses all the fuel to the tank then no pressure will build up and the engine will not run...since no fuel will be pushed thru the injectors. If the diaphragm in the FPR, that separates the fuel from the vacuum chamber, starts to leak then the fuel will be sucked into the intake via the vacuum line and will enter the intake manifold. This will cause very rich operation and poor performance, poor fuel economy, hard starting, etc. will result. Hopefully this sheds some light on what the FPR does. It is a relatively simple device but it performs a rather complex function. If you want to understand how the system works it is important to understant the reason the fuel pressure must do what it does....and it is the job of the FPR to control the fuel pressure accordingly. This is the description of the classic port fuel injection system typified by the systems seen on the 4.9 and Northstar. The systems have evolved in the early 2000's to "returnless" fuel systems. These systems are much more complex in the control side of the electronics but simpler mechanically as they do not have a fuel return line, the fuel pressure regulator is fixed and does not "see" vacuum. The complete explanation of how this is possible will wait for another day, but, be aware that there are variations on the classic FPR type systems in production today. The same logic applies as is described above as to how they work...they just have a lot more electronic bells and whistles allowig elimination of the fuel return line. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Two comments: The returnless DFI system can work with a well-calibrated vacuum sensor -- a good MAP -- by varying the pulse width to compensate for the vacuum, rather than letting the FPR manage the difference in pressure. A nit -- at WOT or with the engine off, the fuel pressure is at a maximum, and at high vaccum the fuel pressure is at a minimum. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 As I say, The seals I showed that are broken are not in any seal assortment I've seen thus far so I had to make them out of heater hose.. which really isn't very good.. I think that it should work, though, at least for now.. Darned injectors must be the problem MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Two comments: The returnless DFI system can work with a well-calibrated vacuum sensor -- a good MAP -- by varying the pulse width to compensate for the vacuum, rather than letting the FPR manage the difference in pressure. A nit -- at WOT or with the engine off, the fuel pressure is at a maximum, and at high vaccum the fuel pressure is at a minimum. Speaking of MAP sensor--Did you replace it? You should check to make sure the MAP is working properly. I remember in one post where someone (who was a technician) couldn't figure out why the Cadillac he was working on would not start. He finally checked the MAP and found out it was the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Good thinking, I had a code for an out of range map singal or some of a thing a couple times Today I am not allowed to drive so I can't go and get any parts because I bought some everclear and it is 90000 proof Also I was reminisceing back to when I killed my 1991 Eldorado.. I still crack a grin when I remember that day smoke was everywhere and noise and the neighbors called the police on 911 it seized before they got there that 49 motor would not die it finally siezed after running forever with no oil or water Question: If I disconnect the MAP sensor and start the motor, and it doesn't change anything.. is that how I know the MAP is the culprit? MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 Question: If I disconnect the MAP sensor and start the motor, and it doesn't change anything.. is that how I know the MAP is the culprit? If the MAP sensor is the problem once it's disconnected the engine may finally run normal. However, one can only speculate. The individual that I talked about said that once he disconnected the MAP sensor the engine finally started. It was an immediate diagnosis. He replaced the MAP and the problem was solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 5, 2006 Report Share Posted October 5, 2006 If you get a MAP code that is current, or you clear it and it comes back in a few minutes, then you should check the MAP. I got an intermittent MAP code once, "...out of range" and the car would start but it put the DFI in the open-loop mode and the transmission in the safe mode. It ran OK but with poor gas mileage, like a cold engine before the heated oxygen sensors come online, and it shifted really firm like a 1950 Hydramatic. I found the problem from the code and used the FSM to find it and was holding it in my hand, and decided that the connector seemed loose but the sensor seemed OK, so I put it back togehter with the connector firmly on the MAP and have been driving for two years. For what it's worth, I've had my car back from the body shop for over a week now and it's running with zero codes, not even ancient history. While I was having state smog inspection on Tuesday, I kidded the technician with "What are we going to do about all those codes????" His code reader is one of those PC-based things that is updated perioically with downloads, and is probalby better than the one at the dealer, particularly for new models. His reply bypassed my jibe completely: "Some people come in here for inspection with the Check Engine light on!" -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Here is a photo of your injector, I found it at STANDARD MOTOR PARTS. You part number is 17113140 (standard part # FJ238). That Seal Kit/O-Ring Kit I posted above is the CORRECT seal/O-ring kit for you, you are only seeing those seals from the top. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and see if I can get one to look at. But look at the photo below Look at the shape of the lower seal, it looks like what you found, pay no attention to the color! I think you are making a mistake trying to 'seal' your injectors with a rube goldberg fix, get the right seal kit. If she is leaking ANY vacuum at those ports you will get a misfire See Rube Goldberg >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg Do an application search at STANDARD MOTOR PARTS here http://www.smpcorp.com/home.asp I just spent 4 hours finding this photo of YOUR injector with seal searching the internet: Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 6, 2006 Report Share Posted October 6, 2006 Oh I missed that part about "compare to my car".. I thought it was showing my injector with an o-ring on the bottom I've seen that seal kit live and in person about six times and it doesn't have the one I need.. Since the heater hose custom made seal things I made didn't make any difference at all I guess I am back to needing injectors.. any last ditch ideas for fixing the injectors? Also: How do I go about cleaning the.. Phenolic spacer plates?? My post #98 above contains a link detailing how to clean the phenolic spacer and mouse holes Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 Here is a photo of your injector, I found it at STANDARD MOTOR PARTS. You part number is 17113140 (standard part # FJ238). That Seal Kit/O-Ring Kit I posted above is the CORRECT seal/O-ring kit for you, you are only seeing those seals from the top. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and see if I can get one to look at. But look at the photo below Look at the shape of the lower seal, it looks like what you found, pay no attention to the color! I think you are making a mistake trying to 'seal' your injectors with a rube goldberg fix, get the right seal kit. If she is leaking ANY vacuum at those ports you will get a misfire See Rube Goldberg >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg Do an application search at STANDARD MOTOR PARTS here http://www.smpcorp.com/home.asp I just spent 4 hours finding this photo of YOUR injector with seal searching the internet: That's the seal! 17113140 I have seen live and in person several times, It doesn't have that Can you find a picture of 17113143? I've said that same thing to 100 people "If it aint sealing up it will cause a misfire" They all told me no, this seal wouldn't cause a misfire, I agree with you and I am so glad someone finally agrees with me Question: If I disconnect the MAP sensor and start the motor, and it doesn't change anything.. is that how I know the MAP is the culprit? If the MAP sensor is the problem once it's disconnected the engine may finally run normal. However, one can only speculate. The individual that I talked about said that once he disconnected the MAP sensor the engine finally started. It was an immediate diagnosis. He replaced the MAP and the problem was solved. I've had it running with the map unplugged.. didn't seem to make a change... MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 According to AC Delco's site there is no 17113143 part number but there IS a 17113140 which is an injector and when you ask for what cars its used for YOUR car comes up.... Your correct injector number is 17113140. See AC Delco's site here at http://www.acdelco.com/ And Standard Motor Parts is here http://www.smpcorp.com/ Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 17113143 is supposedly a seal kit which includes the ones I need.. According to Donovans (A Wichita dealership) Couldn't find it on the delco site and the local delco parts house couldn't find it either.. odd and strange MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 I gave you a link to Rock Auto that shows the seal kit you need. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 According to AC Delco's site there is no 17113143 part number but there IS a 17113140 which is an injector and when you ask for what cars its used for YOUR car comes up.... Your correct injector number is 17113140. See AC Delco's site here at http://www.acdelco.com/ And Standard Motor Parts is here http://www.acdelco.com/ I got mixed up I have seen 17113141 I think I gave you a link to Rock Auto that shows the seal kit you need. The one you showed me was the one I've seen three times in person.. MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 Fred, you CAN NOT see the entire SEAL in that photo. You are ONLY seeing the top of it... That seal kit if for 93 and 94 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 BBF -- I think you accidentally put up two links for ACDelco.com. The Rock Auto link is a no-brainer: http://www.rockauto.com/ The page that the fuel injector seal kit is on is http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,...5,parttype,6232 A picture of the parts in B/W is http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage....partnbr=217-459 Their text for this part is: ACDELCO Part # 217459 SEAL KIT,F/INJR(O RING) {#17112855} In spite of what it says, the bottom seals are not o-rings in the picture -- the bottom seal looks just like Fred's pictures. It's listed as the fuel injector seal kit for the 1993-1994 Northstar. Price is about $25. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 I could swear that I've seen this in person on the counter three times... I will look at it again when I go back to the parts store because you folks are usually very knowledgable and so I'd expect you to know what is going on... thanks MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 7, 2006 Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 BBF -- I think you accidentally put up two links for ACDelco.com. Thanks Jim, I corrected the link, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2006 I went to delco house and ordered that part # monday it will be here I think it is a weekend, They said parts dept was closed at the liarship MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 Alright so the part I ordered is supposed to be in about an hour from now.. if it has the seal I need I might have a heart attack. In the mean time while I have the cover off, I know I can't start the motor, but why can't I disconnect the coil packs (so the motor can't run) and crank the starter to see if the injectors are working(with the cover off)? Is there any reason I can't do that to see if the injectors are working? MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted October 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2006 HA! 217 459 is IT "Substitute for 17112855" MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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