So, the stupid STS is still acting up, making me UNSETTLED and MURDEROUS here :(

[The Fred]

I actually ought to check to see if I have spark on all 8 plugs

I don't hear or feel a miss when revving it up or idling..

But one never knows, it sure acts strange

[PAUL T]

I actually ought to check to see if I have spark on all 8 plugs

I don't hear or feel a miss when revving it up or idling..

But one never knows, it sure acts strange

Mine only missed on light acceleration. Put her to the floor and no problem, cruise steady and no problem, but start to climb a small grade and there was the miss. As time went on though, it got worse. It drove me nuts for about 4 months. Hang in there, you will get it straightened out.

[The Fred]

I'm not happy with what I found,

No change in the idle when I remove 1 or 2 wire

Checked for spark on 2 and it has a healthy spark

SMURF SMURF SMURF SMURF *sigh*

Oh and also, now what?

[BodybyFisher]

Fred, try to organize the issues you are having with this car. Get the computer codes and post them here. Your posts are all over the ball park..

Explain in DETAIL what is wrong with you car, post the codes, don't do anything without getting direction from the knowledgable people on this board, and lets GIT ER DONE....

I am not convinced that you put the intake manifold back on right. You blew out the backfire flap, how did you put it back. How did the intake manifold gaskets look? Did the intake mating surfaces need cleaning up? How was the old intake manifold gasket, its reusable only if its not damaged. Are all the vacuum hoses replaced..

Explain your problems

[BodybyFisher]

Also do me a favor, try to keep all of the extraneous data on your side of the keyboard you know the smurfs, the ak47s, the shoot em ups, emotional outbursts etc. That is not helping you to look CREDIBLE and that is not going to get help from the knowledgable people on this board.

PLEASE STAY ON TOPIC. FOCUS. AND BE DESCRIPTIVE. There is no reason you could not fix your problem after all of this time.. Quite frankly, I am beginning to think you might be better off taking it to a mechanic. Listen to be a good mechanic, you NEED to be METHODICAL about it.. By now I am SO lost as to what your problems are that I have given up as I am sure many have done..

We have been very patient as a group, but its becoming clear why you were banned from the other group, if I didn't feel bad for your troubles and believe you are for real, I would have thought you were a TROLL by now that is yanking our chains...

Let get this car fixed so you can sell it.

[The Fred]

Ok I'm going to retrace my misguided and befallen steps here

1. Went to KWIK shop for gasoline.. car would not start. On a friends advice I added some different gas and it started once that mixed in. Never had a problem after that. Car was fine for a couple weeks I think it was.

2. Almost out of gasoline, get gas at KWIK shop. Around a half tank. Car starts acting up just mildly as I'm driving away and gets worse and worse on the 5 mile trip to wal-mart. Bogging down when I put down the accelerater. Car will not start when I come out of wal-mart. Starts after alot of cranking and had to put foot feed down all the way to start it because it was flooded from so much cranking- finally started ran like hell all of the way home. Bogging down idling loudly and rough.

3. Car sat for about what was it three weeks, started it a couple times during that three weeks. Once, as you mention, it backfired. It had not been running that day or started at all and when I turned the key I got the backfire before I even heard it crank.

4. Replaced the FPR and the car starts alot easier now but still I have to do some cranking sometimes. The idle is alot better but rough.

5. Today I notice that the idle doesn't change at all when I remove either #1 or #2 wire. Removed #2 plug it's making a healthy spark so I assume #1 is as well.

Codes I have had

042 and 044 (until I put a full tank of Conoco gasoline in)

034 (something about an out of range map reading)

P030 (E030) ................ ISC RPM out of range (got this earlier)

Also do me a favor, try to keep all of the extraneous data on your side of the keyboard you know the smurfs, the ak47s, the shoot em ups, emotional outbursts etc. That is not helping you to look CREDIBLE and that is not going to get help from the knowledgable people on this board.

PLEASE STAY ON TOPIC. FOCUS. AND BE DESCRIPTIVE. There is no reason you could not fix your problem after all of this time.. Quite frankly, I am beginning to think you might be better off taking it to a mechanic. Listen to be a good mechanic, you NEED to be METHODICAL about it.. By now I am SO lost as to what your problems are I as I am sure many have given up..

We have been very patient as a group, but its becoming clear why you were banned from the other group, if I didn't feel bad for your troubles and believe you are for real, I would have thought you were a TROLL by now that is yanking our chains...

Let get this car fixed so you can sell it.

I understand.

My mind isn't all together right now I have had a million things going on lately, stress, a big pile of problems and everything else. I'm just nervous like a freight train with no track lately.

Sorry about that.

[BodybyFisher]

OK go out and check the codes again and post the codes that are currently present not the ones until you put a full tank of gas, what is present NOW, mark HISTORY and CURRENT codes.

[The Fred]

OK go out and check the codes again and post the codes that are currently present not the ones until you put a full tank of gas, what is present NOW, mark HISTORY and CURRENT codes.

Alright- I will do that right now Mr. Fisher.

They're all shown as history now with the motor running and off

P:

026

030

032

034

042

044

053

071

095

131

131 wasn't in the list until today I'm sure of that

I'll paste in what each one is from that list at that site

P026 (E026) ......................................... Shorted Throttle Signal Switch

P030 (E030) ................................................... ISC RPM out of range

P032 (E032) ................................................. Open MAP Sensor Signal

P034 (E034) ......................................... MAP Sensor Signal Out of Range

P042 (E042) ......................................... Left Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P044 (E044) ........................................ Right Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P053 (E053) ........................................... Distributor Signal Interrupt

P071 (E071) ................................................ Intermittent MAP Signal

P095 (E095) .................................................. Engine Stall Detected

P131 (E131) .................................. No signal from the knock sensor (PCM)

Would it be safe to disconnect the battery for awhile to clear everything?

[PAUL T]

OK go out and check the codes again and post the codes that are currently present not the ones until you put a full tank of gas, what is present NOW, mark HISTORY and CURRENT codes.

Alright- I will do that right now Mr. Fisher.

They're all shown as history now with the motor running and off

P:

026

030

032

034

042

044

053

071

095

131

131 wasn't in the list until today I'm sure of that

I'll paste in what each one is from that list at that site

P026 (E026) ......................................... Shorted Throttle Signal Switch

P030 (E030) ................................................... ISC RPM out of range

P032 (E032) ................................................. Open MAP Sensor Signal

P034 (E034) ......................................... MAP Sensor Signal Out of Range

P042 (E042) ......................................... Left Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P044 (E044) ........................................ Right Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P053 (E053) ........................................... Distributor Signal Interrupt

P071 (E071) ................................................ Intermittent MAP Signal

P095 (E095) .................................................. Engine Stall Detected

P131 (E131) .................................. No signal from the knock sensor (PCM)

Would it be safe to disconnect the battery for awhile to clear everything?

Yes, clear the codes and recheck after a drive, then re-post codes. Let's narrow this thing down.

[The Fred]

OK go out and check the codes again and post the codes that are currently present not the ones until you put a full tank of gas, what is present NOW, mark HISTORY and CURRENT codes.

Alright- I will do that right now Mr. Fisher.

They're all shown as history now with the motor running and off

P:

026

030

032

034

042

044

053

071

095

131

131 wasn't in the list until today I'm sure of that

I'll paste in what each one is from that list at that site

P026 (E026) ......................................... Shorted Throttle Signal Switch

P030 (E030) ................................................... ISC RPM out of range

P032 (E032) ................................................. Open MAP Sensor Signal

P034 (E034) ......................................... MAP Sensor Signal Out of Range

P042 (E042) ......................................... Left Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P044 (E044) ........................................ Right Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean

P053 (E053) ........................................... Distributor Signal Interrupt

P071 (E071) ................................................ Intermittent MAP Signal

P095 (E095) .................................................. Engine Stall Detected

P131 (E131) .................................. No signal from the knock sensor (PCM)

Would it be safe to disconnect the battery for awhile to clear everything?

Yes, clear the codes and recheck after a drive, then re-post codes. Let's narrow this thing down.

Alright I can do that and come right back

I've been everywhere for everyone today- If anyone wants me to do anything now I will tell them to... ( _________ ___________ ________ )

[The Fred]

I imagine these are normal for when the battery is disconnected but I did notice that when I put the cable back on the battery the car wouldn't start and it was tightened - had to move it and retighten to start the car.

I will clean the connections tomorrow..

It shows 13.4 volts when driving regardless of revs

P052 (E052) ....................................................... PCM Memory Reset

P109 (E109) ....... Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset/PCM has lost primary battery power

And also it is using the heck out of gas I just noticed that

I forgot to mention when I filled the tank at Conoco the range meter only showed 80 miles (usually would show 270 or so as I remember)

Reset trip meter too and I've driven 177 miles on the tank range shows LO now and I am about out of gas

I'd like to find out why I have good spark and there is no change at all in the idle if I disconnect either #1 or #2 plug wire

[PAUL T]

I imagine these are normal for when the battery is disconnected but I did notice that when I put the cable back on the battery the car wouldn't start and it was tightened - had to move it and retighten to start the car.

I will clean the connections tomorrow..

It shows 13.4 volts when driving regardless of revs

P052 (E052) ....................................................... PCM Memory Reset

P109 (E109) ....... Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset/PCM has lost primary battery power

And also it is using the heck out of gas I just noticed that

I forgot to mention when I filled the tank at Conoco the range meter only showed 80 miles (usually would show 270 or so as I remember)

Reset trip meter too and I've driven 177 miles on the tank range shows LO now and I am about out of gas

I'd like to find out why I have good spark and there is no change at all in the idle if I disconnect either #1 or #2 plug wire

When you clear the codes by unhooking the battery you clear everything else, including the fuel data. It will improve the longer you drive the car. Do not worry about that.

No trouble codes as yet. Is the car still missing? Recheck it again tommorrow after you drive it a while.

The battery connections are really critical with this car. If they are not seated good or corroded it will cause all kinds of problems, just like what you are having. Clean them and seat them good.

[Marika]

Your positive you put all the spark plug wires back in their proper positions?

[The Fred]

Your positive you put all the spark plug wires back in their proper positions?

Yes Ms. Marika,

I only take them off of there one at a time..

I think I can rule out a wrong plug wire arrangement by nature of the problem

I imagine these are normal for when the battery is disconnected but I did notice that when I put the cable back on the battery the car wouldn't start and it was tightened - had to move it and retighten to start the car.

I will clean the connections tomorrow..

It shows 13.4 volts when driving regardless of revs

P052 (E052) ....................................................... PCM Memory Reset

P109 (E109) ....... Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Reset/PCM has lost primary battery power

And also it is using the heck out of gas I just noticed that

I forgot to mention when I filled the tank at Conoco the range meter only showed 80 miles (usually would show 270 or so as I remember)

Reset trip meter too and I've driven 177 miles on the tank range shows LO now and I am about out of gas

I'd like to find out why I have good spark and there is no change at all in the idle if I disconnect either #1 or #2 plug wire

When you clear the codes by unhooking the battery you clear everything else, including the fuel data. It will improve the longer you drive the car. Do not worry about that.

No trouble codes as yet. Is the car still missing? Recheck it again tommorrow after you drive it a while.

The battery connections are really critical with this car. If they are not seated good or corroded it will cause all kinds of problems, just like what you are having. Clean them and seat them good.

That's what I wanted to hear

Still,

I'd like to find out why I have good spark and there is no change at all in the idle if I disconnect either #1 or #2 plug wire

[Regis]

I've pulled off a plug boot or two without an idle change. Hope that helps. It's only under load that a bad plug or wire showed itself.

[The Fred]

hmmm

[Regis]

How many miles on your 94 STS Fred? I've been following your thread on and off and my guess is that it's the phenolic spacer plates being clogged. When mine were bad it threw numerous codes and a couple mechanics had a go at the engine without results. Then I found out about the phenolic spacer plate issue on this very site and directed my mechanic through the procedure (actually I helped the whole way) and so many issues were fixed with that one cleaning of the spacer plates. What a world of difference it made.

[BodybyFisher]

Fred, Marika brings up a good point, you removed your intake manifold, you must have removed at least the front bank ignition wires, how did you ensure that they went back right?

[PAUL T]

How many miles on your 94 STS Fred? I've been following your thread on and off and my guess is that it's the phenolic spacer plates being clogged. When mine were bad it threw numerous codes and a couple mechanics had a go at the engine without results. Then I found out about the phenolic spacer plate issue on this very site and directed my mechanic through the procedure (actually I helped the whole way) and so many issues were fixed with that one cleaning of the spacer plates. What a world of difference it made.

Let's wait and see what codes come back before you do anything else. Phenolic plates are not that difficult to do, I have done mine 3 times only because I thought I did not get the gaskets sealed the first and second time, but lets see what codes return.

Unless you did the idle learn procedure it may run rough for a little while until the computer relearns the driving patterns.

[BodybyFisher]

Fred, try to organize the issues you are having with this car. Get the computer codes and post them here. You posts are all over the ball park..

Explain in DETAIL what is wrong with you car, post the codes, don't do anything without getting direction from the knowledgable people on this board, and lets GIT ER DONE....

I am not convinced that you put the intake manifold back on right. You blew out the backfire flap, how did you put it back. How did the intake manifold gaskets look? Did the intake mating surfaces need cleaning up? How was the old intake manifold gasket, its reusable only if its not damaged. Are all the vacuum hoses replaced..

Explain your problems

Fred not to badger you, but it is frustrating not to get answers to questions that I ask, could you please look at the following and comment on your reinstallation of the intake manifold,

If I recall, your car backfired and blew out the backfire safety, am I correct? How did you fix that?

Did you reuse the intake manifold gaskets?

Were you sure the intake was fully seated?

Did you clean the mating surfaces on both the intake and head?

What was the condition of the intake gasket?

When you over tightened that intake bolt stud, could you have cracked the intake?

Thanks

[PAUL T]

Fred, Marika brings up a good point, you removed your intake manifold, you must have removed at least the front bank ignition wires, how did you ensure that they went back right?

I do not think he removed the the whole intake manifold, just the intake cover. You do not have to remove the plug wires to take the cover off, just move them out of the way.

[Regis]

Fred I'll give you $500 for your 94 sts as I see it in the pictures you posted.....engine problems included. From the sound of things you could really use it. And I'm on a mission to get my 94 to 300,000 miles in salt country.

[BodybyFisher]

I do not think he removed the the whole intake manifold, just the intake cover. You do not have to remove the plug wires to take the cover off, just move them out of the way.

Thanks Paul, you can get at the FPR through that cover? Can vacuum leak from that cover? What kind of seal/gasket is on it?

What is the story with the backfire safety on those intakes? Thanks

[PAUL T]

Thanks Paul, you can get at the FPR through that cover? Can vacuum leak from that cover?

What is the story with the backfire safety on those intakes? Thanks

Yes the FPR is under the cover. Yes there can be a vacuum leak in the gasket if it is not seated good or broken. I am not sure about the backfire safety.

I am suspecting a vacuum leak or a shorted wire under the cover. I had a bad boot on the vacuum hose near the throttle body. I had to buy the whole vacuum assembly just to get the boot. He cleaned the throttle body, if I remember right, and you have to move the vacuum hoses to get to it, one could have come loose without him knowing it.

[BodybyFisher]

How are the ignition wires?

You changed the plugs if I recall right? If you did, are they AC's? Did you gap them? If I were you I would pull the plugs and check for cracked porcelain, look close