joeb Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 my a/c is not working well. static is 95psi. running is 85 low and 120 high. sounds like failing compressor to me. i know the next step is open the system and check orifice tube for debris. with these pressures, is there any chance that it is not the compressor causing the poor performance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 I had a problem just like that once and it turned out to be that the A/C compressor clutch needed adjusting. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 a slipping a/c clutch can cause poor compressor performance? hmm, i never thought of that. the clutch faces the pass side of the motor since its hooked up to the serp belt. whats involved with changing a clutch? how/what did they do to fix your a/c? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 It isn't fixed yet. It's a new compressor and I have a call in to the dealer to look at it under warranty. The distinguishing thing about my case is that there were no codes, but the cooling decreased gradually, then quit almost completely over about a half mile -- but there were no codes set. It still cooled just a tiny bit. I cut it off until I could get it looked at, and the A/C guy noted that the Freon level is good but that the compressor clutch wasn't engaging; he could push it in with a tool and it engaged. That's an adjustment. The only thing that I can find in the factory manual for 1997 is on page 1D2-4, in the Clutch Plate and Hub Assembly "Install or Connect" instructions: 5. Install the clutch plate and hub installer-remover J 33013-B with bearing as shown in Figure 8. The body of the J 33013-B installer-remover should be backed off sufficiently to allow the center screw to be threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft. 6. Hold the center screw with a wrench. Tighten the hex portion of the installer-remover J 33013-B body to press the hub onto the shaft. Tighten the body several turns, remove the installer and check to see that the shaft key is still in place in the keyway before installing the clutch plate and hub assembly to its final position. The air gap between frictional surface of the clutch plate and clutch rotor should be 0.50-0.75mm (0.020-0.030"). NOTICE: If the center screw is threaded fully onto the end of the compressor shaft, or if the body of the installer is held and the center screw is rotated, the key will wedge and will break the clutch hub. 7. Remove the installer J 33013-B, check for proper positioning of the shaft key (even or slightly above the clutch hub). 8. Spin the pulley rotor by hand to see that the rotor is not rubbing the clutch drive plate. The instructions begin with instructions on how to bolt the compressor to a holder and put the holder in a vise, so the compressor must be out. It seems remotely possible to me that this could be done with the compressor on the car, but I don't know whether or not there is enough room to use the puller and installer correctly, even with the battery, surge tank, and fender liner removed. It is probably simpler just to evacuate the system into a recycler and remove the compressor. The critical tolerance is the 20 to 30 thousandths clearance in the clutch when disengaged. They don't have a process for adjusting that in the manual that I can see; my mechanic said that some people use shims to close up that clearance to specifications. I don't have a lot of confidence that an amateur or even an expert do-this-job-for-the-only-time mechanic could complete this job with a low probability of causing more damage. I would have an A/C shop do this for me. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 i reread your reply. you have a new compressor with a balky clutch. i went to an a/c site and the response was to see if i have a fluttering gauge reading. that usually indicates a slipping clutch. i don't think a 10yr old compressor is worth putting a new clutch on if a shop has to do it. might as well change the whole compressor. i could do that and have a shop evac it for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 I would think if the problem was the clutch, it would either not engage at all, or squeal/chirp like the dickens if the clutch air gap was too big (slipping). Adjusting the air gap is not that difficult, but you will need the clutch installer/removal tool. I will have a fairly new clutch hub/pulley and new clutch plate available here shortly if you determine you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 my a/c is not working well. static is 95psi. running is 85 low and 120 high. sounds like failing compressor to me. i know the next step is open the system and check orifice tube for debris. with these pressures, is there any chance that it is not the compressor causing the poor performance? Uh...No.... It sounds like a low refrigerant charge to me.... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted July 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 i hooked up a can to the low side port and when i open the valve, the top of the can almost feels like it is getting warmer. yes, the motor/compressor are running. can you tell me how you would add more freon to this system? a properly running system should be at 20-40 psi low side which will suck in freon from a bulk tank. my low side is 95. if my high side was 150+ maybe it would result in a low side pressure that could draw in freon. i could empty/evac the system and fill into a vacuum and than get the comressor running and see if it could draw in the 2+ lbs of freon according to the manual and than see how it performs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnydone Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 i hooked up a can to the low side port and when i open the valve, the top of the can almost feels like it is getting warmer. yes, the motor/compressor are running. can you tell me how you would add more freon to this system? a properly running system should be at 20-40 psi low side which will suck in freon from a bulk tank. my low side is 95. if my high side was 150+ maybe it would result in a low side pressure that could draw in freon. i could empty/evac the system and fill into a vacuum and than get the comressor running and see if it could draw in the 2+ lbs of freon according to the manual and than see how it performs. i hooked up a can to the low side port and when i open the valve, the top of the can almost feels like it is getting warmer. yes, the motor/compressor are running. can you tell me how you would add more freon to this system? a properly running system should be at 20-40 psi low side which will suck in freon from a bulk tank. my low side is 95. if my high side was 150+ maybe it would result in a low side pressure that could draw in freon. i could empty/evac the system and fill into a vacuum and than get the comressor running and see if it could draw in the 2+ lbs of freon according to the manual and than see how it performs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreezn Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 my a/c is not working well. static is 95psi. running is 85 low and 120 high. sounds like failing compressor to me. i know the next step is open the system and check orifice tube for debris. with these pressures, is there any chance that it is not the compressor causing the poor performance? Uh...No.... It sounds like a low refrigerant charge to me.... If the compressor is truely turning and not slipping, it CANNOT be a low charge with 85 PSI available. I would say your orfice tube screen is very clogged, probably with valve plate parts from the compressor. If you are going to open the system, that is where I would start, at the orfice tube. Be very carefull removing the orfice tube as the screen will have stopped the travel of parts into the evaporator area. At least you should not have to replace the evaporator, but probably will have to replace compressor, dryer, and maybe the condenser, if you can't get a good flush. Good luck, Jim in Phoenix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 I misread the pressure readings in your post - the low pressure reading so close to static pressure indicates a problem with the compressor. Recover the refrigerant charge and check the orifice tube for compressor debris. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 I just recently changed my a/c comp. and for some reason to me it doesn't seem like it gets that cold like it used to. It gets cold though but not cold enough...could they have put to little freon or to much? How cold should it get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caddypete Posted July 18, 2006 Report Share Posted July 18, 2006 I gave up on even trying to figure out my air conditioner, on Ebay you can get a new compressors,oil and the dryer for under 250.00, that is with a 1 year warranty and the option of a lifetime warranty.I figure why mess with bad clutch, bad this or that. When for around 325.00 just replace the whole thing, get it vaccumed and recharged and be done with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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