Scotty Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Has anyone had to replace the brake tubing that runs between the rear wheels that attaches to the brake hoses? I was just under my car replacing the air shock tubing and noticed that the brake tubing is RUSTED very badly, so much so that I was afraid to touch it..... new job to do.. might was well replace the brake hoses also. Those brake tubes never come out cleanly so that you can match them up nicely...the next problem is buying the right length, but I guess I can cut the tubing if it is too long and flare it again. I don't think my flaring tool is a double butt flaring tool.... Double butting of the flares is proper on brakes right? Anyone do this job and have any tips?... I don't think I can purchase this at the dealer with the bends in place but that would be nice... Any ideas? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Has anyone had to replace the brake tubing that runs between the rear wheels that attaches to the brake hoses? I was just under my car replacing the air shock tubing and noticed that the brake tubing is RUSTED very badly, so much so that I was afraid to touch it..... new job to do.. might was well replace the brake hoses also. Those brake tubes never come out cleanly so that you can match them up nicely...the next problem is buying the right length, but I guess I can cut the tubing if it is too long and flare it again. I don't think my flaring tool is a double butt flaring tool.... Double butting of the flares is proper on brakes right? Anyone do this job and have any tips?... I don't think I can purchase this at the dealer with the bends in place but that would be nice... Any ideas? Mike Yes - I had to replace the brake lines and the fuel lines from front to rear on my '86 Park Avenue... in the mid '80s, fuel lines were still steel... It first began as a leaking fuel return line that led to full replacement of the fuel and brake lines. The brake lines were not leaking but were rotted and swollen to twice their original diameter. Hey - the car was 17 years old at the time... I ordered the fuel lines from GM thinking they would be pre-bent and when they arrived, they were straight... It was a PITA to bend 3/8" tubing but I did it with a tubing bender. Once I was done with the fuel lines, I noticed the brake lines were also rotted. The fuel lines were available in the proper length from GM but the brake lines were not. Auto parts stores only had lenghs up to 50". I bought two lengths of bulk 3/16" tubing from a hydraulic supplier. Parker-Hannefin was the distributor in my area. The flares are the ISO type (bubble flare) not double wall flare. You will need a bubble flaring tool. The good news is that 3/16" tubing is easy to bend by hand without a bender. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Thanks Kevin for the information on ISO type (bubble flare). I saw it referred to in the manual but had never heard of ISO... Well I guess it will be a good time to do the entire rear brake system, hoses, flush, etc... This is going to be a *smurf* of a job there is not a lot of room to work... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 I just noticed from the title of the thread that the line is 3 feet long - you should be able to buy that length from the auto parts store. You might get lucky and find the exact length. If not, you will need an ISO flare tool though. Buy the line with the ISO (bubble flare) so you get the fittings and then cut and reflare if necessary. I probably wouldn't replace the rubber hoses unless they were cracked or otherwise damaged from the outside. The rears don't wear out nearly as fast as the fronts as they don't have the flexing cycle caused by turing the front wheels. My '86 Park Avenue still has the original rubber hoses on the rear... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Scotty, Mine have been rusted since I bought the car (5.5 years ago). But I do not want to touch them taking into consideration they are rear brakes. If I notice a leak I can disconnect rear brake lines from the ABS hydraulic modulator, put a piece of rubber in the fitting and reconnect them. This way the liquid will not go to rear brake (brakes). I can drive the car like this to my mechanic or replace the lines when I have a chance. Front brakes do 80% of the braking, you know. Your car is 5 years younger than mine. I would not overreact. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 I just noticed from the title of the thread that the line is 3 feet long - you should be able to buy that length from the auto parts store. You might get lucky and find the exact length. If not, you will need an ISO flare tool though. Buy the line with the ISO (bubble flare) so you get the fittings and then cut and reflare if necessary. I probably wouldn't replace the rubber hoses unless they were cracked or otherwise damaged from the outside. The rears don't wear out nearly as fast as the fronts as they don't have the flexing cycle caused by turing the front wheels. My '86 Park Avenue still has the original rubber hoses on the rear... I think I will buy a crowfoot flare nut socket, it will allow me to get at a few of the fittings easier. I used 3 feet as a rough estimate, it may be 4 or 5 feet once the bends are in it. Does this ISO flare crush down in the fitting once tightened up? If I don't have to buy the rubber hoses, that will make this job cheaper. Adallak, the tubing is very very badly rusted, what I don't want is a loss of fluid in the winter nor do I want rust in my rear braking system. The more I think about this the easier I think it will be, I think I will back it up on ramps to get it nice and high and work in that position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anengineer Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 [Has anyone had to replace the brake tubing that runs ] [between the rear wheels that attaches to the brake hoses? ] [....] I didn't replace mine but DID have it replaced. Cost was about $150 and included replacing a front to rear line and a badly rusted transmission cooling line running underneath the radiator. My rear brake line blew out one evening just after I started my car as I was about to head to the convenience mart. The other tranny cooling line had developed a bad leak but was self replaced several weeks earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 Thanks for the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 I have removed some rusted brake lines without distorting their configuration. I cut the line at the fitting and remove all the line clamps. Once I have the line in hand, I use it as a template for bending up the new line.Then I remove the fittings, after a good soak with Blaster, using a six-point socket and a quick snap. If the fittings are in bad shape to start with, I'll pound on a close fitting socket. Sometimes, depending how rusty the fitting are, I'll use a smaller socket (metric or SAE). The combination of blaster and the "Shock" from pounding, usually works. I coat the new lines/fittings with synthetic grease to slow down the future rust event. Don't forget the safety goggles. rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 rek, thanks a lot, thats great info. The more I look at this job, the less intimadating it looks, I like your idea of cutting the tubing at the fitting and preserving it. Historically, I have twisted the tubing due to the rust and deformed it. The best tip however is using a socket! Thanks this site is great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rek Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 You're Welcome Scotty. I usually spray the fittings with Blaster, AFTER I cut the lines. That stuff seems to make the blade "Slide" instead of cut. On a couple of line jobs I was able to salvage the OEM fitting, after a brisk massage with a wire brush and a slight "Tune Up" with a file. I didn't want to use adapters. I most always go with new bleeder screws, with a small dab of synthetic grease on the threads, to help the "Mity-Vac" action ( Less bubbles). Charge ON... rek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 The BEST thing happened today. The shop I used to turn my rotor, does custom hydraulic hoses AND has a machine to bend and shape BRAKE TUBING and they will do the ISO flares. They use a better grade of steel tubing and will use Stainless Steel if I want! From what I can determine, this service is NOT too expensive... Yea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Sounds like a plan. If the stainless is reasonable priced, I would recommend that - you'll never need to do the job again. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Given how fast that piece rusted out, I may just do the stainless, my impression is that that brake line faces forward and it may be subject to accelerated corrosion as the other lines don't look so bad. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SLS Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 Well, I have the same problem, Broke due to rust right after I had the fuel filter replaced, I suppose they did not hold up to the moving. Looks like kinda big job. Anyone have any prices what it might cost to have a brake shop replce them all? Rotors, brakes and ruber lines all are 80% I read anywhere from 100 to 300 bucks but no one says if that is the whole set. My Kid is taking the car to his next duty station. Need to get it done pretty quick, Midas? MC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 I can't help you with that MC, the hardest part is obviously the tubing, the brakes and rotors are easy. I spoke to my shop the other day and they will make me a steel tubing for $40 and stainless for $80, I may go stainless since this one rusted out so fast. Good luck and let me know how it goes, Mike (Scotty) Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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