95SLS

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About 95SLS

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)
  • Birthday 01/01/1960

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    knine0909
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    knine0909
  • Website URL
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/1995sls
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Profile Information

  • Location
    NE Ohio
  • Interests
    Auto/Audio/electronics

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    95 SLS & 96 Eldo Both over 100K
  1. I think I also have this mystery leak. I found a lower hose shooting right on bottom of pump and thought I had it. But, after 360 miles with no loss and no overheat, wham! It lost a bunch and fast then got very hot, (Not enough to say change oil) And was down 3/4 a gallon. It goes somewhere fast. I already found a leaking tank, reservoir, bottom hose, and I have a white chalky substance at the pump but no visible leaks. It's as if it gets hot and I am sure it blows out overflow. But didn't see any sign around the pump. I feel the pain. I'm going to THROW a pump at it! After that, I am breakinf out the dye! MC
  2. FIXED! Thanks a lot. Just to report back in. I considered Rockauto but same price at AutozZone but cheaper, by like $40 after you add in the savings card return. And AZ got a new computer today that is color and shows on a diagram exactly where the sensors are. Pretty cool. 1 YR warranty on the parts too. I replaced bank 2 sen 1 1st and got no codes for like 50 miles, then Bank 1 sen 2 came back with a PO1130 which was a insufficient data on same sensor so I replaced that and looks OK no codes. Like I said, I had the car in storage because everyone thought I had a head gasket leak, that turned out to be a Lower Rad Hose squirting water through a pinhole onto bottom of waterpump. But now All I have to do is run out the gas with STABIL in it and refuel with 93 again and I should be OK. MC
  3. I guess I mis spoke when I said Bank 2 sensor two. However, the reply's got me right on tract. Now I know where all the sensors are as i have laid eyes on them. The bank 2 I need to change is kind of behind the fans in a hole. And the other will be before the cat. No too bad. I think it was the rockauto site that lead me to believe there were two sensors on left bank, by what they say. SO I was like looking for a sensor that was not there. I'm glad I asked these stupid questions. Helps a lot when you understand the Caddy lingo. Actually the car runs fine. But no matter how many times you reset the codes they come back quick and I read that you can damage the cat running with bad sensors. I'll tackle this when I get home, I work on the road. No further questions! Thanks a heap you guys gave me all the info I need! Thanks thanks thanks. MC
  4. Bank one cylinder one! Now that is my language! I can now remember that! Hey! Learn something new every day! Thanks! That makes it easy. They could have said that in the book eh? I understood the right side is bank one, but I gotta know why they call it that! LOL Well, I haven't looked for the locations. I see the bank 2 sensor 2 I'm not so sure where sensor 1 is though. I normally buy one and go looking for what I have ha ha. But I am all hyped up that I can get this back on the road. I have an SUV now and it don't get that good of mileage. My Urban assault vehicle 19 MPG Hwy. I have new struts, dogbones, ready to go on and possibly get new leather inside and it will be/look as new with 130K miles on it. I have DTS wheels I got off of Cardio Doc. Wonder where he got to? MC Can I hijack my own thread?
  5. Well I parked this car like more than a year ago when the kid went into Marines. Had a antifreeze smell to it loss off coolant never found the leak. Put in new fluid and tabs, no leak. Today I consider someone said silicone may wear out 02 sensor, so i did compression check on all cyl throttle open, all plugs out 4 pumps got like 190's to 200 all the way no leak downs. So I went to buy sensors and I see a puddle, no find, go home let idle shut off and BOOM Pinhole leak from bottom hose squirting onto water pump bottom! But now it is more than a pin hole! Always find a leak just after you put new fluid in. I see SM says that left and right are determined as you stand to rear (Drivers side) of engine but I don't see anywhere what bank is 1 and what bank is 2. I know someone said bank 1 is drivers side, i just got to be sure. MC
  6. Yea I have the socket. In stock LOL I still am kind of unsure about what ones to change. I read they have a expected service life of 30 to 50K miles. So I am way past due. These two trip pretty often so I will try to hit the right ones, if I miss that only leaves one to change. MC
  7. Ok thanks, I have had good luck with Rockauto for sure. Many parts always fit and good service so that is a possibility. I didn't check the value of the sensors in question, seems like all the O2 sensors are giving out. I may buy two if they are all the same. Is an O2 sensor an 02 sensor? Or are they specific to the location? So many choices! Upstream, downstream and prices and makes. TRU-TECH Part # SG273T Two required.; Upstream Sensor $36.99 $0.00 $36.99 DENSO Part # 2344018 Front $38.89 $0.00 $38.89 DENSO Part # 2344025 Rear $41.79 $0.00 $41.79 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # SG273 {UPSTREAM SENSOR} Two required.; Upstream Sensor $55.79 $0.00 $55.79 BOSCH Part # 13474 {Oxygen Sensor - OE Type Before Catalyst} Two required; One sensor located in each manifold. Interval=100000 $57.79 $0.00 $57.79 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # SG274 {DOWNSTREAM SENSOR} Two required.; Downstream Sensor $60.79 $0.00 $60.79 Reason I ask, The kid changed one I just replaced, he made it easy by just cutting the wires, when the code still set I asked what one he changed? Same one I did a month prior, the good one! (The top one by the firewall, PITA!!!) MC
  8. Long time since a break down eh? My kid drove this car like he stole it for 2 years now I have to tend to it. NOT 95 SLS It's a 1996 Eldorado Not ETC. Code says, P0140 Bank one sensor 2 Current Code says P0154 Bank two sensor 1 Current (this one is new) Question is. Ok I think Front is part with the belt Right? Question is: If Front is part with belt is Left of engine fwd as in the car? Question is: Is sensor 1 like 1st one in system going down the line? And is sensor two the next one going down that line like around the Converter? I want to change the PO154 one 1st and see what happens. The PO140 Just started to show up while I was running codes over and over and resetting them. I just pulled this car out of the Barn after sitting 2 years. MC
  9. I had that same problem, All I did was change the fluid add some Lucas Transmission additive and it's been like 70K since. Back when I needed a new radiator, I also added a cooler. I seriously think it was triggered by the heat because it happened when I was towing. Then for like 6 months off and on after that until I did all this. Now, no codes since. My code was intermittent, I thought it was the harness and this and that. Never found anything wrong. MC
  10. Well agree on the injector will check it out monday and let you know. I know that in a big truck oil in the fule is usually due to bad injector but was not sure about a car, but the symptons are the same. Thanks for your input will help and give a place to start.
  11. Nope runs fine no codes. Was having the problem with oil leak in haf case just kept putting oil in it as is not worth the cost of repair. Now oil is filling up with gas very thin and stays over full all the time.
  12. Just checking to see if anyone knows why I would be getting gas in the oil. Thank You
  13. Well, I have the same problem, Broke due to rust right after I had the fuel filter replaced, I suppose they did not hold up to the moving. Looks like kinda big job. Anyone have any prices what it might cost to have a brake shop replce them all? Rotors, brakes and ruber lines all are 80% I read anywhere from 100 to 300 bucks but no one says if that is the whole set. My Kid is taking the car to his next duty station. Need to get it done pretty quick, Midas? MC
  14. Yea that looks like the bear! Caddy dealer said they have to replace the whole unit, I asked about how much and they said $1000. I freaked! The car has 150K on it so I want to do whatever it needs, As you can read, I have had this area appart several times in last weeks. It's killing me! And am I going to need another $96 FE alignment? $75 seems a little steep for a lower ball joint eh? $12 bucks on my chevy! Thanks for the picture and the reply. I guess I have top buy a puller and a torx 55. And another day off work!
  15. Ok folks! In my quest to spend 3 times as much on my car as it's actually worth! We move on from, Front end align, Radiator, condensor, Trans cooler, Socks, Struts, end links, Dog Bones, Brakes, and calipers to! ..... Maybe Hubs and CV joints? I get a grrrrrrr noise on the highway when you turn slightly to the left, noise comes from the left side only. Read the Searchables, But confused. Does the Hub assembly include the CV joints? And just how does that lower ball joint come off? Looks like pressed on to me. Plus The bolts that hold the hub on are some wierd torx size, like between a 50 and a 60. That's all the further I got and I put it back together. Again, Cadillac dealer is so far out of price range, I'd have to junk it. At least $1000 they said. So what's next and how much is THIS going to cost! I think I'm going to park this car and just go buy a new one. Cool car but sucked like $3000 out of me in last month. Depressing! Mike C