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2001 seville sls pcm problem


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Hi my brother own a 2001 cadillac seville sls. he called me up 1 day and asked where the battery was located that his battery was dead and needed to be jumped off i explained how to remove the rear seat and he proceeded to jump the car off he said before the battery died it was acting funny. he said when he turned the switch on to crank the car it would start when the switch was turned on without turning the key to start it. so he called me back and told me the persons car he used to jump it had the negative wire painted red and he got the cables backwards. so i went down there and after 2 hrs of checking every fuse and relay I replaced 10 fuses and 4 relays. the car started fine and we drove it home but the car still cranked when turned to the on position I thought it was a little weird but took the car home to further see what was wrong. when we got home i turned the key off and the lights on the dash and gadges stayed on so i turned the switch on and back off a few times and they finally went off. I thought he might have messed up the ignition switch when he crossed the cables but he said it was already doing that. so we decided to go out that night and we went to crank the car and the brand new $150 battery was dead. so next day I jumped the car off to see if maybe the alternator was dead but the car ran fine even with radio lights and everything else i could find that draws power for 20 mins. so i went to advance auto and had them run the codes they got crankshaft positioning sensor and p0601 internal memory error. They told me the computer is bad and to replace it. I just want to make sure that is really the problem before I he forks out $400 for a computer ($300 + shipping + $75 to get it flashed) any help would be greatly apreciated

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ouch, that sucks. Exactly the reason whyy I refuse to jump or be jumped. P0601 could be the computer, there is another thread on an older deville with a similair problem. Were all the fuses you replaced blown, same with the relays?

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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wow. Thats not good at all. That makes me worry about cooked wires. big time. that is not minor and If you replace the PCM you may damage the new pcm

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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wow. Thats not good at all. That makes me worry about cooked wires. big time. that is not minor and If you replace the PCM you may damage the new pcm

Thats what I was worried about. im gonna pull the radio and ignition switch out and check all the wires I can trace down and see if i see any that are melted. also I was told that the pcm could only be flashed 1 time and I had to buy it new. I know it is eprom wich technicly can be written to as many times as you want to write to it but will they flash an old one? If so why can't i just reflash the 1 in there now, it still works the car runs, I think the data is just corrupted. Does anyone know where to get the software to flash it? Im a computer tech I own a local pc shop so I understand the concept of the eprom well just have had no luck finding a dump of the eprom or a program to flash it. I would like to try to flash the old 1 first if anyone can point me in the right direction or even just give me a name of the software used. thx for all the help guys.

EDIT: so I just called the dealer and they said it has to be bought new they will not flash an old 1. still if anyone can help me find the software to flash it I would greatly apreciate it.

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People love to jump cars when they are dead, its amazing

This is at least the 3rd time on here I have heard of people reversing the cables.

This car is going to have lots of problems if you ask me, not just the PCM

Let this be a lesson to us ALL, when the battery is DEAD, its DEAD for a reason. Recharge it the correct way, a DEAD battery that you jump to start the car puts a HUGE strain on the charging system. With all of the electronics, JUMPING these cars is crazy, pull the battery, have it tested then have it charged... IF it is charged in the vehicle, disconnect the battery connections from the car, then reconnect them after its charged. There are no shortcuts in life. End of rant

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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I couldnt agree more. I usually charge at 2 amps till the battery has sufficient power to take a stronger charge.

this just makes me worry because of the extent of damage just in the fuse panel. How are the other fuse panels?

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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I couldnt agree more. I usually charge at 2 amps till the battery has sufficient power to take a stronger charge.

this just makes me worry because of the extent of damage just in the fuse panel. How are the other fuse panels?

Recently my neighbor's battery went dead in and X71 5.7 Chevy truck and I refused to jump it with my 3.4 Chevy. Her father thought I was ridiculous not jumping them. I just don't do it, simply because of the current draw on the host car, and the strain on the dead car's charging system.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I agree but like I said its not my car and he don't listen till its too late so its now too late and going to cost him an arm and a leg to fix it. I found the pcm at a local suplyer but its $300 plus $75 to flash it was just wondering if i could get it cheaper. also I found tech2win. it is a tech2 that runs on your laptop. idk how well it works but im going to order the usb cord and see if it works. from what im told a tech 2 is what they use to flash the pcm. if anyone knows anything about this software id love some feed back.

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I couldnt agree more. I usually charge at 2 amps till the battery has sufficient power to take a stronger charge.

this just makes me worry because of the extent of damage just in the fuse panel. How are the other fuse panels?

the only fuses that were blown were in the panel beside the battery under the backseat the rest were fine.

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I agree but like I said its not my car and he don't listen till its too late so its now too late and going to cost him an arm and a leg to fix it. I found the pcm at a local suplyer but its $300 plus $75 to flash it was just wondering if i could get it cheaper. also I found tech2win. it is a tech2 that runs on your laptop. idk how well it works but im going to order the usb cord and see if it works. from what im told a tech 2 is what they use to flash the pcm. if anyone knows anything about this software id love some feed back.

That seems like a lot of money, go to www.rockauto.com and look up your year SLS and you will see they range from $154 to $174, not sure if that is your part number but $300 is out of control, not sure if you can drive it to the dealer to have it programmed.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I couldnt agree more. I usually charge at 2 amps till the battery has sufficient power to take a stronger charge.

this just makes me worry because of the extent of damage just in the fuse panel. How are the other fuse panels?

Recently my neighbor's battery went dead in and X71 5.7 Chevy truck and I refused to jump it with my 3.4 Chevy. Her father thought I was ridiculous not jumping them. I just don't do it, simply because of the current draw on the host car, and the strain on the dead car's charging system.

It might be interesting to hear peoples comments about: to jump or not to jump. I had a similar experience with my xlr, Mike. In another town with guys I knew and they were having trouble. I have only 2 seats and already had a passenger, so I left the parking lot before they could ask. I WILL NOT jump anyone with that car. Even for Jessica Lang :rolleyes:

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As far as the'jumping thing goes' thats why Icarry a 'jump box' in my Yukon at all times, and I will never go Battery to Battery, I will go to the DESIGNATED JUMPING POST - we have all seen the little red plastic block and ground to the engine, I think it you jump the way it is designed there MUST be fail safes that will blow before you fry the system jumping Positive to Postive and Negative to Negative. I dont think there is any fail safe if you put the positive to the block and the negative to the jump terminal, maybe it would keep the sstem fro frying, that one is a good question, but JUMP BOX is the only way I will help someone, and if it's my own I WILL jump with a JUMP box, but NEVER straight on the Battery.

That's ashame, I hope it all work out for you and your brother. Sorry to hear about that, that really stinks.

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