Cadillac Jim

All three bolts show thread damage. I looked in the 2006 FSM for Timesert data and found nothing specific to the intermediate camshaft drive shaft bolt holes. The thread repair addresses the head bolts and case half (crankshaft main) bolts in detail, and these have templates from GM/Timesert, but other bolt holes are covered by a series of generic procedures for flush holes, recessed holes, etc. The intermediate camshaft drive bolt holes are flush holes. These are in M6, M8 and M10 sizes and must have a counterbore to allow the insert flange to install flush with the surface. Be sure that you have everything you need (taps, tap guides, counterbore tool, tap lubricant, spray can cleaner, threadlock, etc.) before you begin. Timesert or GM can supply the tools (Amazon or equivalent is good, too!) and inserts and you can get the fluids and spray can cleaner locally. There is a camshaft intermediate shaft plug under the intermediate camshaft drive shaft - you can see it in the photo in this post that shows the damaged bolt holes. This tap-in sheet metal plug separates the crankcase from the timing chain area. It's very touchy and there is a lot of bold color text about it in the FSM. Install it too deep and the crankshaft counterbalance weight will hit it. Too shallow and it can interfere with the oil passages to the cylinder heads. If it's OK, be sure not to damage it so you don't have to mess with it.

The fact that the idler sprocket mounting bracket seems to have been forced to the right to pull its mounting bolts - see thread damage in photo in post above - it seems possible that the first failure was one of the cams locking, which would happen when a few teeth were skipped on that cam. When all the parts are out and examined, we may be able to tell what the first failure was, and why it happened.

Perhaps a used engine from a recycling yard is available?

All modern engines are interference engines, and if a valve is standing fully open and the engine is turned, the piston will hit that valve. If the engine has not been turned, it is probably OK. The starter is strong enough to damage the engine if a valve is standing open. If the engine was apart and not running when the problem occurred, you may be OK. If it was running when the timing failure occurred, then, as KHE says, you will have damage. As KHE says, this is a "very unusual failure."

Oh. I hope he and his now-sold ETC are doing great, and that he is happy with his current ride. And, I would like to see his input here from time to time. Regarding the subframe issue, it would seem to me that if the lower control arm is damaged due to rust, the subframe mounting bolts are likely to be a problem too. The path of least resistance would seem to be to use a recycling yard from outside the salt belt, such as the "Cadillacs Only" facility at barczy01's link, and get both lower control arms. But only the car, the tech, and the owner know what's best, as rockfangd says.

<offtopic>I hope Regis' 1994 ETC is doing as well as Regis is! </offtopic>

I recall some time ago, BBF and I looking for that bushing in poly for my 1997 for a long time, and finally finding out that the 1997 did not use a bushing there, ergo the control arm changed. I've been wondering how Regis is doing for awhile now.

There was a change in the front lower control arms for the 1997 model year. You can use the GM dealer online parts people to access the GM parts book, and some of them will give you the part number, which you can then check for models it will fit. My favorite is GM Parts HQ: http://gmpartsheadquarters.com/ Another good one is GM Parts Direct: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ Do a web search on "GM Parts" and you will get a list. For some out-of-production parts, you can try several until you find one that still has the part. Or, you can search on the part number.

The 1994 Fleetwood uses the 350 cid iron V8, regular gas and 260 hp. Can you run the OBD codes? If there is an electrical problem that should tell the tale. If there are no codes, a sticking ISC stepping motor is probably the cause. Don't replace the PCM just yet. It's expensive and requires a dealer with a Tech II to program it and make it work. Modules themselves almost never go bad in Cadillacs unless you hook jumpers up backwards with a dead battery or get ham-fisted with the wiring harness.

The park assist system can be disabled through the DIC (customization options). Make sure that this hasn't happened inadvertently, or when it was being driven by someone else.

Thanks for contributing, plants.

I was thinking that the Jaguar replica would be great to have in, say, Yuma, AZ. But, "no garage" is not a good thing for an open car.

Do you take the SS-100 replica with you when you travel? If so, do you use a trailer or tow it?

I think that "fresh" is the key, and "Holley" vs "Weber" not so much. They are both top-notch brands and the carburetors are made to the same drawings, apparently.

The 1995 models had OBD I. The codes may be OBD I There is a letter prefix and three numbers in an OBD I code. The OBD I codes ending in 44 are: Traction Control T044 RF TCS Pilot Valve Fault Air Bag R044 Passenger Source Feed Low Suspension (RSS) S044 Lift or Dive Signal Fault Powertrain (Engine) P044 (E044) Right Oxygen Sensor Signal Lean There is only one OBD I code ending in 126: P126 (E126) A/C high pressure switch disabled A/C compressor KHE has some information posted for a GM-only system in post #9 above that may help.

Med ett bra betyg av 10W-30 och lägga till GM olja tillsatser med ZDDP är ett bra alternativ. Jag kommer att säga att Wikipedia länken hade jag i mitt inlägg var mycket lång och omfattade en hel del ämnen som inte är av intresse här. Men en som behandlas är ZDDP innehåll. Moderna oljor ZDDP innehåll handlar om vad det var i the1960's när högpresterande motorer krävs en ökning på grund av den hög-lift kamaxlar och mekaniska lyftare. ZDDP höjdes ytterligare för dess antioxiderande egenskaper till 1200-1300 ppm, medan i moderna oljor använder 600 ppm. Men 600 ppm räcker utom race motorer som thrash deras mycket stressad ventil tåg vid höga varvtal. Jag håller med stroker49 att du aldrig kommer att skada någon Cadillac med hjälp av ett bra betyg av moderna 10W-30 olja i OLM eller instruktionsbok. Å andra sidan, denna Cadillac behöver racing olja: 10 second Cadillac, All motor, 511 ci Caddy, full

If you are concerned about backward compatibility with older cars because of changes in ZDDP content, please look at the Wikipedia write-up. ZDDP levels in modern oils are about what they were in the 1960's when ZDDP was increased to provide protection for high-performance engines. These were pushrod mechanical lifter engines with high clearances, and could be identified on the streets by the clattering noise which could be heard over long distances. The Northstar uses hydraulic DOHV valve train which has a fraction of the lubricant stresses of such engines.

Look for the 'doughnut' symbol, the left one in the figure, or the starburst symbol, the right one in the figure. For a premium oil, use 5W-30 Mobil 1. The current API standard for oil for automobile engines is SN. For entirely too much information, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#American_Petroleum_Institute For a premium oil, use 5W-30 Mobil 1. Even through rated 5W-30, Mobil 1 maintains its high-temperature viscosity at least as well as conventional oils. Don't use 5W-30 conventional oils in the summertime. If you don't see API service designations in Sweden, you will almost certainly see ILSAC standards. The ILSAC current ILSAC standard for motor oil is GF-5. It meets the same standards as API service SN plus another fuel economy standard. Oil that meets the ILSAC standard (like Mobil 1 5W-30 or 0W-30) has the starburst symbol.

Välkommen till Caddyinfo! Mikronesien säger uttryckligen inte till använda oljor som slutar med -40 eller något annat än -30, som i 10W-30. Sidan 0B-3 i Mikronesien 1997: motorolja VISCOSITY The Rekommenderad olja viskositet för detta fordon med temperaturen är över 0 F (18 C) är SAE 10W-30. Motor olja viskositet (tjocklek) har en effekt på bränsleekonomi och kallt väder drift (start och olja flöde). Lägre viskositet motorn oljor kan ge bättre bränsleekonomi och kallt väder prestanda. Högre temperatur väderförhållanden kräver dock högre viskositet motorn oljor för tillfredsställande smörjning. När temperaturen blir mycket kallt och aldrig över 60 F (16 C), kan SAE 5W-30 användas i alla modeller [handboken täcker Eldorado, Sevilla och Deville med Northstar, både VIN 'Y' och VIN '9']. SAE 20W-40 eller oljor av andra viskositet betyg eller kvalitetsbeteckning rekommenderas inte och när som helst på. Notis: Använda oljor av någon viskositet än de Klibbighet (sic) rekommenderas kan resultera i motorskador. När du väljer en olja, överväga vilka temperaturer som fordonet kommer att drivas på innan nästa oljebyte. Välj rekommenderade olja viskositet. Eftersom det är i mitten av sommaren, använda 10W-30. Konventionell olja av god kvalitet (Shell, Exxon, Pennzoil, Quaker State, etc.). Leta efter antingen starburst eller nyare 'munk' symbolen som intygar att oljan är certifierad av SAE för användning som en motor olja: Du kan också använda en syntetisk olja i klass 5W-30. Använd inte 5W-30 på sommaren, om det inte är en syntetisk olja som Mobil 1.

I'm not sure that I've seen this in a Cadillac but what you are seeing is a result of many years of direct sunlight deteriorating the surface of the plastic. One thing in your favor is that dashboard covers are usually part of an airbag deployment system, at least for the passenger side, and thus you should be able to get a new dashboard cover without a problem, and the work involved in changing it should be doable on a Saturday afternoon. But you seem to be looking for something to spray or paint on the dashboard cover to re-seal it and extend its life. I don't know of an answer to that question myself; others may have some suggestions, but my only suggestion is to stop by a Pep Boys or similar outlet and chat with the staff. With a little patience you should be able to identify something specifically made to solve your problem.

I believe that the axle housing with extension is available from GMPartsDirect, but not the extension alone. The price is steep. I would make sure that you do indeed need the housing. A bad housing is rare and probably most are due to collision damage. If it's just the rubber donut or bearing, you are in for a lot of trouble and expense because it seems that that the extension housing doesn't sell often. Frustratingly enough, the parts page for the group "UNIVERSALS AND REAR AXLE" doesn't have a parts diagram. The bare differential case is listed under rear suspension as well at $126, but they also list an Axle Housing for $567. Without a parts diagram I can't tell. Most other GM dealers that sell online use the same catalog software so I don't have a lot of hope that the parts diagram will be on another site. You might try Rippy Automotive. The head of the parts department there can get anything that exists.

I have a friend who uses a Chevette as his daily driver. There were a lot of these cars sold, they were in production through the 1992 model year, and there are a lot of them out there.

I think that it depends on the model and the year. From what I could determine from the schematic on the 1989 Sedan Deville ELS, it is "on" all the time, but inactive unless there is a level change. When there is a level change, the height sensor module turns on for about 2.5 minutes. When the key is in run, it goes into a line in the schematic marked "Reset" which to me means that the ELC turns off when the key is in the RUN (on) position. But, the logic inside the ELS sensor module is not spelled out, so I can't be sure exactly what is meant by "Reset." The FSM from which this figure came should spell that out in a dedicated section on the ELS. If you have the owner's manual, the ELS operation should be explained there, too.

Having the ELC work after the key is off is important. Some Devilles are often used with lots of back-seat passengers, and a Seville or other sedan or crossover can be, too. ELC is also important when lots of stuff like golf clubs or beach or picnic gear is loaded in and out of the trunk, as can happen often with lots of Cadillac owners and occasionally with any Cadillac owner.

What I can make out of the schematic is that it is similar to that of later models except that it is autonomous, while later models are operated by the PZM or BCM. The smarts are in the ELC Height Sensor. From what I make out of the schematic, the ELC will work EXCEPT when the key is in RUN, when it is "reset." When the height changes, there is an enabling "relay" (possibly a transistor or MOSFET) that turns ON for about 2.5 minutes. While the ELC is enabled, the ELC Height Sensor will operate either the compressor or the exhaust solenoid as required to level the rear of the car. There should be some information in the FSM on what the Reset line hot in RUN, does. In the 1997 FSM, the ELC remains operating for about 5 minutes after the key is turned off to allow the car to level when something (a set of golf clubs is given as an example) is placed in the trunk or removed from the trunk. Or a bunch of people get in or out of the back seat.