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Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. My dad's shop of the 1950's used a 2.5 meter tall press/cutter to cut springs. Everybody called it the Big Dog. It was designed for leaf springs but had bits for coil springs. We used it a lot for making truck springs (big truck springs are never catalog items and are made to spec in the shop that installs them). We also used it for repairing automotive and small truck springs by making new leaves to replace broken spring leaves, etc. A separate operation, usually involving a big hammer and a special anvil, was used to adjust the spring curvature. I never saw the Big Dog used for coil springs but I'm sure that it did happen once in a long while. I like the metal saw better. It's important that the spring temperature be kept low enough so that the steel temper is not affected more than a few mm from the cut, which is a skill set thing that you demonstrated in your video here.
  2. You would need more radiator for that much output, and a separate transmission cooler plus a special build of the transmission, be it the 4T80E or the transmission from the LS4 donor car. Tire size and clearance will again rear their ugly heads when you balance the chassis for the added power.
  3. The radiator stopped leaking too? I'm not superstitious, so I would suggest that when you get time, you check all the hose clamps, including the ones on the bottom of the surge tank and the heater hose tee low on the firewall on the passenger side.
  4. The buckling strength of a long round rod with ball joint or bushing ends, as given by Euler's formula, is F = (PI^3)*E*R^4/(2*L^2) where F is the buckling force in pounds, E is Young's modulus (about 29 Mpsi for ASTM-A36 structural steel, quite certainly higher for the alloy used by MOOG for this application), R is the radius in inches, and L is the length in inches. If you can get a good number for the Young's modulus E for the material that MOOG used, you can get the buckling force on the stabilizer link. You can estimate the force that the suspension will put on it from the car's weight, with a torque applied to the suspension of about 1.5 g's times the car's weight times the distance of the roll axis from the CG, and set that equal to the stabilizer link torque on the chassis. How much of that force you allocate to the struts is your call; I would use zero on first cut just to add safety factor. Using the torque from just one side, that being the side under compression, will give another safety factor. Quick web references: Buckling strength formula: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckling#Columns Moment of inertial of circular cross section: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area#Annulus_centered_at_origin Young's modulus of steel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Young's_modulus#Approximate_values A-36 steel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A36_steel Or, you could call MOOG and ask what the maximum compression force is on that part. That should be in their geek information for people who call and ask. Since they aren't likely to tell you the exact alloy, that is probably the best way to find out what you actually need.
  5. Wow, amazing work. Thanks for the photos. The pictures carry most of the information for me. Are the MOOG problem solver swaybar end links capable of holding the compression forces? They look thin for that.
  6. My theory is that people don't go do a web-based business with significant investment (huge storage, fast fixed IP hookup) without a plan to have an IPO and cash out big. That thinking is what led to the dot-com boom and bust of the late 1990's, and the money-hungry behavior you see from some web sites and businesses, like Adobe. But once you sell shares and have a Board of Directors, you have investor pressure for return on investment. I keep getting e-mails from Photobucket that tell me that 100% of my photos are "third party hosted" which means that they are embedded in other web pages (not strictly true, but I do us Photobucket primarily to post scans and stuff on Caddyinfo), and that I need to buy their "Plus 500" plan that costs $40/month or $400/year. The thinking that people who come in from outside and analyze such sites see that Photobucket has 15 billion images and 100 million accounts and they want to monetize that database and customer base. I figure that they have been analyzing the photos, customers, and usage for years to pay for the site and I expect that. What I didn't expect is for them to decide that I was making money on other web sites where the photos were posted and want a cut. I don't make money from my web presence and I always say NO when someone tries to extract a credit card number for something that I don't need or already own. When I get around to it, I'll close my Photobucket account. I don't need the cloud for my photography, and I don't get paid for posting photos or pictures anywhere.
  7. If anyone needs an image from one of my posts before the images come back, send me a PM and I'll figure out something.
  8. Your photos are still there and the hot links have the file names in them. If we can re-host the photos in another service, we can fix things easily enough. But Photobucket is dead. I don't think that there is anything that Caddyinfo could have done to foresee or prevent this. The whole WWW was blindsided by this.
  9. Photobucket has announced that they will start charging $399/yr for accounts that allow hot-linking, which is how most photos are posted here on Caddyinfo. I don't know when support for hot-linking will end, but when it does you will see a broken image icon instead of images, such as my avatar and signature photo. I for one have no intention whatsoever in paying Photobucket to host my photos. How is Image Shack doing? Anyone recommend another reliable source for uploading albums of hot-linked photos? EDIT: In posting this Topic, I see that my signature photo is now blocked by Photobucket. My avatar is OK; I must have uploaded that to Caddyinfo.
  10. One last thing - check the routing of the serpentine belt to make sure that it isn't re-routed somehow.
  11. First, I can't believe that you have no codes if the A/C clutch doesn't engage with the A/C on. If the PCM is preventing the A/C from engaging the compressor clutch, there will be a code that tells you why, such as refrigerant pressure or temperature problems. I'm not sure, but if the PCM thinks the compressor is running but the coolant pressure and temperature don't reflect that, you should get a code; someone more experienced in A/C service for your model will know for sure. Make sure that you are using a good code reader that provides Bnnn codes. I believe that OnStar will give you A/C codes but I'm not sure; you could call them and ask if they give you A/C codes. If you aren't sure, go to Autozone or another outfit that reads all your codes for free. Second, if you have a voltmeter or test light, you should be able to work a probe into the contact at the compressor DK GRN wire. If it reads volts when the compressor clutch is supposed to be engaged, the wire is OK. If the clutch doesn't engage when there is battery voltage on the DK GRN wire and the BLK/WH wire is grounded, the clutch is bad, or the safety A/C Pressure Temperature Switch inside the clutch is bad. AC/Delco replaces the clutch and compressor as a unit. But, watch for the belt slipping on the pulley as the cause of the compressor not turning. Third, the A/C compressor relay is a $4 throwaway part, like the fuel pump relay. Rock Auto sells that relay, AC/Delco, for $7.31 There is also a 15 Amp fuse in the underhood fuse block marked AC CLU. The relay is right there on the underhood fuse block and it is also marked AC CLU; there may be a legend on the inside of the cover over the fuse block that tells you which fuse/relay is AC CLU. While you are at it, check the ground BLK/WH wire coming from the compressor clutch for a good connection to ground (use your ohmmeter or a test light).
  12. Since nearly all Northstar head gasket failures are old and/or high mileage cars, usually with unknown coolant maintenance history, I'm convinced that it's not a design problem. Any aluminum head or head/block engine will give trouble eventually if you run it for years with acid coolant. The big deal with the Northstar is that it's the head gasket, arguably the worst coolant-related problem you can have, whereas in most other cars it's the manifold gaskets or the thermostat housing or whatever. I'm not surprised that the Toyota four-cylinder is a source of problems. I've heard tales of sludge accumulation and other things in vintage about 2000 Toyota fours, although they had a distinguished record for engine design prior to that. Toyota has pushed to be the biggest out there for many decades, and the push usually results in cutting corners to offer better prices, and when this causes a problem with a model with huge sales volume, stepping up to it may not be feasible. Welcome to the big time. If you are considering a Toyota, look at the V6 models. As far as I know, they have no underlying issues like cheater emissions software, sludge accumulation, or long-term mechanical issues. Now, the back of my mind is saying, whatever you want, you can get it from GM, Ford, or Chrysler, and the relative long-term reliability and cost of operation is top-notch for GM and Ford cars, and some Chrysler cars. That the Toyota is easier to do head-off repair in the car is an advantage if you are working on it. If you are using a car as a daily driver, well, you get what you pay for. Of course you can work on an inline four in the car. I once did a valve job on a bow-tie 327 V8 in the car, outside. The real challenge is not to need to do that.
  13. The 6.2 liter supercharged V engine does not accumulate carbon like the Northstar. With no boost, it is just a low-compression big V8 with a conservative cam that happens to have ultra-high lift. With boost, it's a VVT monster tuned to have huge torque that does not vary much over the RPM band. It doesn't need WOT to keep clean and ready-to-go. This engine, at 6.2 liters and 556 hp, is rated at only 90 hp/liter. Compare this to the Olds Quad 4 HO, the hottest of which was rated at 195 hp, which at 2.26 liters is 86 hp/liter, and this normally-aspirated four-cylinder DOHC was sold in the little Olds 4-4-2 revival compacts of the 1990's.
  14. It's also possible that the black deposits in that plug well were a result of leakage of the internal seals of that plug. The plug failed because the center insulated electrode assembly corroded, and I suspect that failure of the seals started the process.
  15. Perhaps the appeal is enhanced by the two sport bicycles mounted on the rear hatch. The minicar *is* easy to park.
  16. Not at all surprised. The behavior of the new replacement part made it look like it didn't work like an OEM part.
  17. Three years and 75,000 miles can be long enough for static electricity forces to accumulate soot in the plug wells, I would think. Anything on the exhaust manifold when you park your car, like excess brake fluid, power steering seepage, anything - can result in a slightly smoky underhood environment, which is cleared in the plug wells when you start the car and the electrostatic dust cleansing begins there. We are all looking forward to seeing pictures of your CTS-V. Sorry for the delays.
  18. Wife's car. That calls for eight double platinum plugs and a thorough cleaning of all ignition-related, injection-related, and PCM-related, wiring. Deposits of any kind can be present in plug wells. The high potential electric fields in the plug boot and insulator collects dust of whatever kind is in the air, and that's underhood air. I wouldn't think a thing of it unless there are profound differences in one plug well or something that focuses on one cylinder or tracks back to the ignition module.
  19. I saw and replied to that post. Great photo. Looks like salt and moisture got under the plug boot and, over the years, got past the seal between the insulator and electrode. This is the kind of thing you see in very old very-low-maintenance cars. From this thread, I thought that the problem was with multiple cylinders. I would still change all the plugs, and, of course, clean out the plug wells (before puling the plugs), and the plug boots. Spray can PC board or electronics cleaner should be good for that. I would check the label of any auto de-greasing compounds to make sure that they are OK for electrical components before using those. If you have a P0300, you can get miss counts on each cylinder with a code reader. You tackled Murphy head-on by starting on the rear bank and it worked out well for you, so you didn't need a code reader this time.
  20. Ah, the old disappearing plug trick. If you are selling the car soon, single Platinum OEM-style plugs are good (my experience is 60,000 miles/1000 km for peak performance). If you plan to keep the car or sell/give it to a relative or close friend, double platinum plugs should go over 100,000 miles/165,000 km.
  21. Oh. Forgot, sorry. Look at the ignition wires, though. The local ground is very important for CoP ignitions, as is the ground on the ignition driver modules. Any problem that is sudden and affects more than one cylinder seems likely to be electrical at the module level - if it is solely electrical. Of course, you can check for air leaks, plug problems, [salt] water splashing over one or both banks, etc. A compression check will bring out valve train problems, which are rare except for an occasional sticky valve (which are also rare in well-maintained often-driven cars) but can also be used to rule out valve train problems if identifying the problem takes more than an hour or two. Diagnosing and fixing this should take about a half day in a warm, dry place to work. Let us know how it works out.
  22. Don't forget the plug wires. It could easily be that some moisture got under the beauty cover and caused a sudden ignition failure syndrome.
  23. I would start over and follow the instructions in the video. At some point, you will find either what you missed or that your new part isn't the right part.
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