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Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. That would explain a couple of wires pulled out of connectors on the BCM. This could also explain wiring harness damage on the right headlight circuits. I haven't checked with the location of the underhood fuse block.
  2. I think that the thing to do is to look at the high beam solenoid first, because if the fuse, wiring and ballast/bulb are all good, that's all that is left, and it seems to be a plug-in throwaway part, i.e. something that can wear out and is designed to be easily replaced. If the solenoid is good, meaning if you trade it with the left one and the left brights come on but the right brights still do not, then check the wiring. That's best done with a voltmeter. @Will, if you don't know how to use a voltmeter, you can use a test light instead for checking the power to the headlight solenoid. If you get your own FSM from eBay, there is a section on it on how to use a voltmeter to troubleshoot wiring problems. For the most part, it's just like using a test light but you look at a needle swing on the meter or numbers on a display instead of a bulb lighting up, and a meter can check things a test light can't.
  3. The underhood fuse block provides power to everything in the car except the starter armature and the alternator armature. There are three connectors: C1, black with 22 terminals, C2, black, with 30 terminals, and C3, black, with 50 terminals. Also, there is a pad for the battery cable to bolt onto it. I don't know the provision for ground, if any.
  4. That, or water damage, occurred to me. A CarFAX would tell the tale. But a complete list of Bnnnn codes, with the CURRENT ones flagged, would probably be all we need to find two or three problems and get Will back on the road with everything working. The driving lights, on in the daytime, are probably the high beams at part power, if that's possible with HID. I don't see a way to get part power in the schematic, but that's the way driving lights work with incandescent headlights. That would explain why Will's high beams, or the left one, came on in the daytime. @Will, you might think of getting a used factory shop manual for your car on eBay. We can get you through this, but if you plan on keeping the car you will need the FSM to save you tons of time and aggravation in the future. Whenever you find it convenient to have Autozone or a similar outfit read your OBD codes, list them here. If they don't give you the interpretation, that's OK, just post them here and we will provide the interpretation.
  5. Here is C1 to the underhood fuse block: 2006_DTS_UnderhoodFuses_C1_Data.pdf
  6. We don't really know what's up with the car at this point because we haven't verified anything for sure yet. Exchanging text messages about symptoms can be very informative but you have so many symptoms that are in different areas of the car that I've come to think that there are multiple problems, and that they possibly are independent. That's why I would like to see what a CarFAX says, and why I think there are BCM codes stored, and that we need the Bnnnn OBD codes. I have seen problems like what you are facing in cars that have had hardware-minded mechanics do wrenching on the car and inadvertently damage the wiring harness by stretching wires, and pulling one or more wires loose from a connector - then just pushing the wire back into the connector and hoping for the best instead of repairing the connector. But with the turn signals and hazard warning switch, we have implicated a connector under the dash, C1 on the BCM, and I can't imagine how that would happen and refuse to speculate about that here. But with one bright headlight turning on, you have found an opportunity to fix something with only a couple of places to look. Here is the headlights schematic for your 2006 DTS. Note that if one bright headlight turns on and the other does not, and both low beams work OK, there are only a few places to look in the circuit for the other headlight: The other 10 Amp HI BEAM headlight fuse in the underhood fuse block The other headlight high beam solenoid The wiring. Note that the headlight high beam power comes from connector C1 on the underhood fuse block, pins 17 and 18. At this time I would recommend that you look at the fuses and the solenoids first. Let me know if you need the connector end views and the wire table for C1 on the underhood fuse block.
  7. Another bit of information would be a CarFAX on this car.
  8. Here's a blog post on reading OBD codes. Key phrase: "AutoZone and most parts store chains will read your codes for free. All you have to do is ask." https://www.thoughtco.com/translate-those-engine-codes-281948 I looked at the Pep Boys web site and they offer an OBD code reading service for free too: https://www.pepboys.com/service/repair_services/engine_diagnostics?iCID=mega-menu_6-20-17_service_free-services_code-retrieval_service:repair-services:engine-diagnostics_text-link If you have one of these guys handy, get the codes listed for you for free. If you want to go forward yourself, don't buy the service that they offer to diagnose your car. If they offer a diagnosis for a fixed small fee like $64, you can get that if you want - but be careful that you don't get led into losing control of the cost of repair. Me, I would stop at the free OBD code list. Make sure that they know that you want the BCM codes, the ones that read Bnnnn, where n is a numerical digit 0-9, not just the engine codes of the form Pnnnn. The article recommends a dongle on the OBD connector that uses Bluetooth with a cell phone to make up your own code reader. I've been doing this for years, so my setup is an OBD-to-USB cable and a laptop. My favorite vendor of this is Scan Tool.net, the people that make the chips in other peoples scan tools: https://www.scantool.net/ They can sell you the Bluetooth dongle and software for your cell phone. Another DIY code reader that I found with a web search is http://www.aldlcables.com/allinone.asp Watch out for the $100 or cheaper all-in-one hand-held code readers that only show Pnnnn codes, and sometimes not all of them but only the emissions codes.
  9. Hey, how about getting the codes read by a reader that gives us all the BCM codes? You know that with inoperative turn signals, a dead CHMSL, and a dead hazard warning flasher that there are lots of BCM DTCs. If we have them then we can steer Will to where the problems are being caused.
  10. @Loganis the expert on CHMSL assemblies, he rebuilds and sells replacements. Trunk-mounted CHMSL assemblies tend to have eventual condensation and leaks that result in corrosion, and the simplest way to get a nice one where all the LEDs have the same brightness and such is to replace the old one. When you get to the CHMSL, you need to check and see if it's getting voltage to the L-BL (light blue) wire when the brake pedal is pressed with the key on. If so, check the BK (black) wire for a good ground. If the volts are there and the ground is good and the CHMSL doesn't light, the CHMSL assembly is bad. If you have a hearse package or commercial chassis, the CHMSL is from the coachwork company, not GM, but a light blue wire goes to the coachwork lighting connector. If you have an export model, the CHMSL hot wire is YE/WH (yellow stripe on white). But the CHMSL can wait for the turn signals.
  11. Usually when someone dumps a car for peanuts its because of something he doesn't want to deal with. Electrical problems are a mystical problem for some people, often very bright people that you would trust to do brake work and internal engine work, but that for some reason just don't grok electrics. To others, electrical problems are just another problem to solve and are taken in stride. If electrical problems are why the car was available for a good price, you may have a really good find here, but be prepared for a bit of patience. If you diagnose problems before buying parts, and the previous owner didn't do something really dumb like hook the battery up backwards and blew all the modules (it woudn't even start if someone did that), it shouldn't be expensive to get right.
  12. The BCM is under the dash on the passenger side, just to the right of the glove compartment as seen from the passenger seat. If the connector is involved, the wires in row 3 of C1 (the green connector) are the ones with the turn signals and the hazard warning light wire. My limited experience with wiring harness problems is that they tend to be wires pulled out by physical damage, usually inadvertent damage from other work, and show up as intermittent connections or loss of connection. The problem is a wire pulled out of a connector and unnoticed, or simply pushed back into the connector by the guilty party. They can be found by tugging on the wires to the connector one at a time; if one pulls out, well, there you are. The repair is simple; the best one is a new terminal. Never stop at the first wire you find, but check all of them.
  13. I take it from Logan's point made here, that the CHMSL is on the trunk lid on this model, not inside the rear window. Logan is a true authority on external lighting; note the links in his signature block. Unless you need the CHMSL to work for State Inspection, you might consider letting it go for now.
  14. The CHMSL is operated by a supply voltage from the BCM. It shares a fuse in the rear fuse block with the back-up lights labeled CHMSL/BCK-UP. It's possible that the stoplight switch or connections aren't working. Do your other stop lights work? The CHMSL in the schematic is a single LED but they are usually a bank of LEDs, and any of them out is a rare occurrence, particularly if they are inside the rear window and the assembly is not exposed to the elements. If none of the stop lights work I would look at the stop light switch and its wiring. At this point I'm convinced that there are scads of Bnnnn DTCs that we don't have.
  15. There are two illuminations in the hazard warning switch: the dashboard illumination, which is a bulb that is powered by the dimmed dashboard power and is part of the dash lighting, and an LED that turns on when the hazard warning lights are active. The bulb in the Hazard Warning Switch is powered by the dimmer power for the dashboard. It's brightness is controlled by the interior light dimming. If the car sees daylight in the dashboard ambient light sensor under the rearview mirror at the front center of the dashboard, the lights aren't dimmed. If you put a clipboard over that sensor and wait a few seconds, or at night, the dash and interior lights are dimmed, and you have a control near the headlight switch to control the amount of dimming. If that works, there is no reason that the hazard warning switch illumination should not work too. The LED, which is a lot brigher than the dashboard illumintion bulb, is in the same circuit as the signal to the BCM, a TN (probably tan) wire between the switch and the BCM. If it doesn't light, then either the hazard warnign switch is not connected to the BCM, or the BCM is not powering the switch circuit. Any connection between the hazard warning switch and anything else in the car is through the BCM logic. There is no physical connection between the hazard warning switch and anything other than the BCM (except the dashboard illumination bulb). EXCEPT: the tan wire is on the same conector as the turn signal wires to the BCM, C1, which is a 27-terminal GN (green) connector on the BCM. From my SI DVD: Untitled 1.rtf
  16. I see only one HI BEAM relay for both sides, but it powers two separate fuses, one fuse for each side. I do see a note on the schematic, "PCB relay," now that Logan points that out. The fact that it's not a throwaway means to me that it might be a "solid state relay" that uses a type of IGFET with an optical isolator, with the "coil" being an LED and the gate of the IGFET being controlled by a photocell. The LED and photocell are pieces of an opto-electric isolator. These relays are a lot more expensive than mechanical relays but they very rarely go bad. In any case, I would expect that any relay that they put on a non-serviceable PC board is not a go-to replacement item for a failure, like a mechanical relay in a socket. In other words, I think Logan has eliminated the headlight relay as a likely candidate for the problem with the high beams.
  17. The car is a 2006 DTS. There are several DTCs, and if Will's code reader shows BCM codes, the fact that there aren't any eliminates the problems that throw codes. Better to go through that and be sure where you are before you start taking things apart, than to change the smart stick, and then, if that doesn't fix it, to have to do it all anyway.
  18. That's a very good question, which is why I think checking the electrical things first, before you disable the air bags and pull the steering wheel, is a good idea. The FSM doesn't help me here and I don't have a car to look at handy, but it may be that the wiper stuff is in the stalk itself near the end, and the turn signals and headlight switch stuff is in the box at the base of the stalk. But I don't know. @OldCadTech or others like @BodybyFisher might know better; they have very likely changed the smart sticks on mid-2000's DTSs before.
  19. Good news! From the FSM, if you have a column shift, you only have one smart stick. AND, you can change it by just removing the covers on the steering column and removing two screws. Whoops, when I looked at removing the steering column covers, the first step is pulling the steering wheel. This requires that you also remove the tilt lever and the knee bolster. Removing the steering wheel begins with disabling the air bags and removing the air bag module. The air bag module basically contains a small bomb, and it's dangerous to mess with, so we must take this step very seriously. The air bag module is released by finding the access holes on either side of the steering wheel and using a tool to press release buttons in them. Even though the good news is that you don't have to mess with the steering position sensor and its calibration, the tilt and telescoping motors, etc. etc. etc., it's still a bit of a job. I would make sure that the multifunction switch is the problem with electrical testing before I did this job.
  20. That means that the computer isn't coming back with any failed tests. The car's computer performs hundreds of tests every few seconds and thousands whenever you drive the car, so that's good news. @OldCadTech, do you think that points a finger at the multifunction switch? @Will, I'll dive back into the FSM and see what the mechanicals in the steering column look like.
  21. Will: On my car (a 2011 CTS) the headlights are on the left smart stick and the wipers and turn signals are on the right smart-stick. I don't know if the mechanicals of the two are in the same assembly, but I suspect that they are. Your car is roomier and they may be separate. If you look on the steering column, you should be able to see if both sticks go into the same segment on the steering column; if they do, then it's the same assembly. There are lots of functions in the smart stick assembly. The usual situation when something breaks or wears out is for part of it to get out of joint and malfunction or quit working, and some or all of the rest to be OK. One thing that bothers me is that the turn signals are on their own lights in the front and the stoplights in the rear, while the high beams are on their own circuit. Logic in the BCM should not tie together the turn signals and the high beams. A mechanical problem in the steering column is the closest they get - except in the wiring, where they are on the same connectors. But, then, as you say, so are the wipers and other things that are on either smart stick. It's possible to get out a wiring diagram, remove the covers under the dash, and crawl up there with a voltmeter and check things out. But I'm hoping that your code reader and an OBD code can help save you from that chore, which, unless you have a very bright ten-year-old nearby that can crawl up there for you, is not something I would plan on for recreation. So, your point about the wipers gets me to the obvious: maybe you have two problems. If the no-bright-lights problem is it's own thing, the HI BEAM relay is probably the problem. For the turn signals, I would check fuses. The hazard warning switch has an LED that is turned on when it is on, so that's not likely a problem.
  22. I've been browsing through the FSM, which for me is a slow Java document on a DVD, and some of the things I have found: Intellibeam is apparently standard on the 2006 DTS. Intellibeam is implemented by adding the headlight sensor to the inside rear view mirror and additional software in the BCM and in the main computer, where the progammability options and such are displayed and stored on the touch screen. The headlights are operated by the BCM. All the controls go to the BCM, and all the indicator lights are operated by the BCM. There do not seem to be a lot of DTCs about the headlight control circuit. B2580, "Headlight High Beam Control Circuit," is one of them. Repair instructions are, after instructing the tech to check and fix DTC's in general, to check the relay, general power distribution, replace relays, fuses, and even the underhood fuse block as necessary, and, if the BCM doesn't successfully command the high beam relay, to replace the BCM. The tach, speedometer, and all the dash lights, including the turn signal arrows and the Intellibeam indicator, are operated through the car's network by the BCM. The instrument panel cluster is a computer module that is operated by the BCM through the car's network. I do NOT believe that the Intellibeam system will prevent the turn signals from operating, because safety demands that the turn signals work regardless of whether the headlights are on high beam or not. The turn signal switch just sends signals to the BCM. The BCM software does the blinking timing and operates the turn signals and stop lights. The only place where the high beams and turn signals are tied together is in the malfunction switch itself. The OBD codes may help us with determining that for sure. We need to do that before proceeding because changing that switch assembly is a big job and the parts aren't free. Found this GM page on Intellibeam: http://gmauthority.com/blog/2014/11/cadillacs-intellibeam-system-automatically-enables-high-beams-feature-spotlight/
  23. The first thing I would do is read the OBD codes. If your OnStar is active, you can push the black button and ask them to read the codes back to you. The last time I did that, they offered to e-mail me the codes. Not all codes are available through OnStar, but I think the safety-reatled codes are all available to OnStar. If your OnStar isn't active, Autozone and other auto parts outlets and service people offer OBD code reading services, just make sure that you are getting the BCM codes because some services just read the PCM codes. I'm new to the thread, altered by OldCadTech, so I'll start with 2006 DTS, no bright headlights. The 2006 FSM headlights schematic shows the bright lights controlled by a relay in the underhood fuse block. There is a HI BEAM relay and a LO BEAM relay, both controlled by the BCM. The BCM grounds a relay coil connector to click the relay. Power comes from a wire that goes off the chart, still in the underhood fuse block, so I will say for now that it goes to a MAXIFUSE, one of the 50-Amp fuses. I'll look up that schematic after I'm done with the headlights schematic. The HI BEAM relay provides power to two fuses. You have separate 10 Amp HI BEAM fuses for the left and right headlight. There are two 10 Amp LO BEAM fuses too. You have HID headlights for both high and low beams. Power from the fuses goes to the headlight high beam solenoid and ballast on both sides. Low beam goes to the ballast but no solenoid. From there things go to ground G104. From that, I would say that the muti-function switch, which has your passing lights (pull on the left lever, spring return) and high beam switch (push on the left lever and it moves to high beam position and stays until you pull it back), auto-dim, etc. are controlled by logic in the BCM, not relays in the headlights wiring. Since everything past the high beam relay is duplicated on both sides, it seems that whatever is preventing your high beams from coming on is most likely either the high beam relay or the logic in the BCM or something that affects the logic in the BCM, not in the headlights themselves. The OBD codes would make this clearer. If you have low beam but not high beam, I would find the high beam relay and put a stethoscope on it while someone turns on the key and pulls the multi-function switch to flash the high beams and see of the relay clicks. If it does, the relay contacts are bad. If it doesn't, the relay could still be bad but the BCM logic, or something that affects the BCM logic (like the multi-function switch) is the problem. The headlight switch, multi-function switch, and rear view mirrors are on a separate schematic. Everything goes to the BCM, which controls the headlights. There is a light sensor on the inside rear-view mirror in this schematic. The inside rear-view mirror is actually a module, and the mirror includes the sensor for the auto-dim feature. It talks to the BCM through the car's network, which on your car is the D-GN (probably dark green) wire. So, I would try replacing the high beam relay in the underhood fuse block; that's a $5 part. If that doesn't fix it, I would get the OBD codes and do a diagnosis before buying any more parts.
  24. Tires aren't a problem anymore. The Michelin Pilot Sport Plus 3's that I have now wear like Michelins on the Eldorado, and cost a lot less than the originals; I didn't check the current price. I suspect that this holds for the 3rd generation as well as my old 556 hp 2nd generation CTS-V. From the article, I get the impression that the author of this article was a dissenting vote on the Business Insider car of the year selection, preferring the CTS-V.
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