Jump to content

Cadillac Jim

Lifetime Supporter
  • Posts

    9,088
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    105

Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. There are some parts that I would trust Dorman about, but something that can be very persnickety for fit or function should be AC/Delco or OEM, and this seems to be one of them. I would worry about the vents not having the same temperature on both sides if I bought a generic part, even if it fit and the wire colors matched up. I'm interested in reading that it's all fixed and buttoned up.
  2. I don't have enough information to give you a part number, but Rock Auto probably has your actuator at a nice price. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1997,deville,4.6l+v8,1025345,heat+&+air+conditioning
  3. I wanted a black coupe, too, but you only get to specify everything when you are buying new. Bruce and Texas Jim were helping a lot, with their better used-car radar than I could get online from the Philly area. Also, it turns out, the better used CTS-V's nationwide were being transported to the DFW area for resale, and Bruce and Texas Jim are based in that area. In fact, I was starting to close on one of two 2009 models when Bruce turned up this 2011 at a price that I barely could not afford, but bought anyway. For a used car in a model that doesn't appear very often and doesn't offer much selection, you need to decide what is a deal-breaker and what is desirable. To me the deal breakers were the Bose sound system, Recaro front seats, and the sunroof. It turns out that these were all standard over the model years that I was looking at, although the Bose and sunroof could be deleted for credit they rarely were for street cars. Deleting the Recaros for credit is possible on later models but isn't very common. So for me it was a trade between price, miles, and model year, with typically two or three out there at any given time. All the ones that were out there in the few weeks I was looking were sedans with automatic. Be sure and use CarFAX or something similar. Your own account is inexpensive relative to any given problem that this "radar" can help you avoid. There was one black CTS-V that I liked but a CarFAX showed that it was a GM fleet car in Detroit for two years, i.e. deep salt belt and parked outside day an night, with competent but minimum cost maintenance, and I passed on that one.
  4. I got my 2011 CTS-V sedan (Recaros, sunroof, automatic) at about 22,000 miles in the spring of 2013. It has about 65,000 miles on it now. You are asking about zingers? I'll presume to make generalizations based on my experience as one who uses a CTS-V as a daily driver and drives it legally. Overall, it's the most reliable car that I have ever owned. Unscheduled maintenance just doesn't happen. Don't let *anyone* drive the car. Valets are OK in indoor garages, but don't let a valet drive it outdoors. Even service people at dealers may feel the need to "drive the car briskly* in "testing." Get a dashcam and leave it on when you leave it for service. Check it afterwards, and if it has been turned off, or you don't like what you see, don't go back there with your V. Some dealers look at V owners as mod-crazy guys who treat their cars as money pits, and will add service items accordingly. Make it understood that you must personally approve each service item. I had an unnecessary brake job thrown at me that way, about $2K. Tires are not a problem in terms of dollars per mile if you get good tires. Cheap tires wear quickly and most of them are just good enough so that you don't take them off for better ones. That's where the money in tire prices goes, in better tire wear, as well as better performance, better holding in the wet and cold/snow, etc. You will likely hear from non-owners about how expensive the electronic shocks/struts are. They are about 1/3 as much as those on my 1997 Eldorado Touring Coupe. Mine are fine at 65,000 miles. I have not scheduled a service for them, and don't worry about it at all. Don't beat on the car and the tires, transmission, differential, etc. will hold up fine. The car is built like a tank but you can beat it up if you try because it has, like, 600 hp at the crankshaft. With that, you can break a Humvee in ten minutes if you try. Non-dealer mechanics that are good for your V and can be trusted with it are out there in droves. I live in a far suburb of Philly and know of three in a 5-mile radius, four if you count a guy that will just buy parts from NAPA without checking with you (cheap parts!). Most dealers have never serviced a V. Use Yelp or V forums to pick a dealer for service. Yelp ratings for the CTS, XTS, etc. are no good for predicting satisfaction with a V, look for people who have had their V's serviced there for ratings. The battery is an AGM deep-discharge unit in the rear that lasts forever. Mine is original. It's not a V thing; the battery is the same as other 2011 CTS's. The CCA for the V may be more but it's only 700. The starter has a reduction gear so that's just fine. Mods don't make much sense for the street, but if you do, start with higher capacity injectors and with cooling and intercooler enhancements, even before a chip tune, because any increase in horsepower will require bigger injectors to work and will generate more heat and air flow through the intercooler. Intercooler mods alone will get you a noticeable improvement. The next step is to take the boost limit off the chip so that it gives 15 psi boost at sea level; if you don't already have the injectors and radiator for that you can harm your engine. I recommend zero mods unless you are going to be measuring times at a drag strip; I consider cars that do that project cars, not daily drivers. Cops don't bother you. Haters, on the other hand, will tailgate, etc. Local police have advised me to pull over while still moving to let haters pass but do engage or let on you notice them, and do not stop except in a safe place. I'm crabby so I keep local police on speed dial on the car phone - but I've never used it. The worst haters are psychotic yuppie women, next are older men in huge pickups with something to prove.
  5. The simplest way is to send him a PM on that web site.
  6. I suggest that you put an OBD code reader on it and solve the problems, and then see how the car is with no codes. That should get the car going well with a minimum of time and money. Problems that are actually caused by mods will be found and fixed that way. You can find the Easter eggs as you maintain the car over the years.
  7. A fully-equipped CTS-V sedan will have a sticker prices near $100K. Theoretically it's possible to get one new for $80K because the dealer can make money at that price if the car is not "banked" or bought from GM on borrowed money and put on the showroom, but you will need to get one on special order, cash on delivery without making the dealer wait after the car comes in, through the fleet manager - OR get it online through a bulk dealer. Look for a dealer that sells scads of Cadillacs including significant number of V's to find someone willing to deal. If the price starts climbing after the handshake, walk away. Or, get a good used CTS-V through Cars.com as I did. Pick the model you want and the must-have attributes (mine were sunroof, Ricaros and Bose sound) and watch for your deal, cash and insurance ready to go on short notice. Use CarFAX, and when you see your car, move quickly.
  8. Any STS-V or CTS-V will fill the bill for you. Here are some general points: AFAIK, the head gasket is not an issue for the 4.4 liter supercharged LC3 engine. Rating is 465 hp. There are three iterations of the CTS-V First generation, 2002-2007 model years, six-speed manual transmission only, 400 hp, 5.7 or 6.0 liter V8 Second generation, 2008-2015 model years, 6-speed manual or automatic, coupe and wagon (some years), supercharged 6.2 liter 556 hp Third generation, 2016-current model years, 8-speed automatic, supercharged 6.2 liter, 640 hp The STS-V will give you a better ride on bad roads. The CTS-V will give you a great ride on the interstates and good roads and superior handling, particularly the 2nd and 3rd generation. All four are very reliable cars, if you keep then near stock and don't beat on them. Your price range of about $25K pretty much eliminates the 3rd generation CTS-V. For the same amount of money, you can get a lower mileage STS-V than a similarly equipped CTS-V. Some interesting items, such as the heads-up display for night driving, are standard on the STS-V but aren't available on the CTS-V. If you drive a 2nd generation CTS-V, you will not likely ever run into a faster car by chance on the street in normal driving, except possibly to performance car events of some kind. For "a nice cruising car that will hold its own at a stop light" I would look at the STS-V first, then the second generation CTS-V. Your final choice will be more likely dictated by what's available than your first choice, because both cars are not very often seen on the used car market.
  9. I'm about ready for tires and am looking at what's out there right now. I'm very happy with my current Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric A/S tires and they are still available, but I see that Michelin has just come out with their Pilot Sport A/S 3+ (W or Y rated) with UTQG wear rating of 500. The end-of-life wear bar indicators are on the outsides of the front tires. The rears are fine but I will replace them as a set. The car is a V2 sedan with A6. Any comments from someone who has recently gotten new tires for their V2?
  10. The OEM stabilizer link should be good for up to ten years, depending on climate, salt, usage of the car, etc.
  11. Haaaapy Birrrrth day toooo Bruuuce...
  12. If it sits outside, then it may read the outside temperature after sitting overnight. It's hard to say what it will read, because in the coolest part of the evening just before dawn, the car may cool to the point that it will actually be cooler than the outside temperature by 7:30 AM.
  13. Congratulations on solving your no-code problem. Those can be very difficult to diagnose.
  14. The car takes several days to drop to ambient temperature, particularly if it is garaged and not subject to winds. 71 F after resting for a weekend is normal, if it is a few degrees warmer than the garage.
  15. The miss counter uses the expected crankshaft speed so a consistent miss on one cylinder will show occasional other cylinders as having a miss or two. But, if the car has over 100,000 miles on it with the original plugs, there is likely a real miss here and there on any given cylinder. They will likely all have a miss count of zero after new plugs are installed.
  16. Perhaps we have a candidate for getting a FSM for his car off eBay or equivalent.
  17. I find jobs go better and easier if you do what's necessary to make it easy when you start. I once pulled a grille and radiator to add factory A/C to a car (old full-size FWD GM). The hardest part, pulling the damper wheel for the new one with the needed extra pulley was a snap, sitting on a stool with four feet of extensions. I was done in a little over half a day, including charging and checking the drainage of the condensed water. To do a transmission, I would want a clean, well-lighted workbench.
  18. I remember once while I was starting my drive home in the ETC and needed to lose a couple of carpoolers and grab a gap while I was on the phone. My wife asked "What was that? It sounded like a toilet flushing!" I said that yes, it was similar...
  19. I think time is more important than miles when it comes to coolant. To have 100,000 miles on coolant in four years, you need to be driving an average of 25,000 miles a year. But there are always exceptions. For example, if a car has been sitting for a very long time, it may be a good idea to change all the fluids. That way there are no doubts about the status of the coolant, oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, etc. That story about a dealer refusing a loaner for a long warranty repair is horrible. If GM covers the cost of the loaner along with the repair, you have a right to insist. My dealer in California hosted an Enterprise rental office. They rented a car for you through them. As with dealer-owned "demonstrators" and loaner cars, these were Cadillacs that they would like to sell you. I got a Deville that was very nice (but no ETC, fer sure!) and an Escalade (great SUV, but not my cup of tea for a daily driver) the two times I needed one.
  20. You might consider letting the dealer to a transmission service. Dealer service includes replacing the fluid with Dexron VI, which provides a huge improvement in transmission life and a remarkable improvement in cold shifting. Coolant changes are probably the most important thing you need to watch in maintaining any old aluminum engine. I let it go too long in my wife's 1999 Pontiac with the 3.4 liter V6 and the intake manifold gasket started leaking. Fixing that is a big job, because it's the bottom layer of a two-layer intake manifold, and removing it requires pulling the pushrods. When the dealer was done, they put the old coolant back in. I took over the maintenance of that car when the coolant started leaking again in a few months. Don't let anyone talk you into green coolant. GM cars haven't been designed for green coolant since 1995 but there are still a lot of quite good mechanics out there that don't believe in modern coolants and will put green in your car without notifying you. Use DexCool or GM-certified antifreeze for your car. Be sure and change it every 4 years; it's designed for 5 years or 150,000 miles but unless you drive 30,000 miles a year the time will come due first. Giving it a margin by changing it every 4 years instead of 5 years is a very good investment, not what I would call over-maintaining the car at all.
  21. A beautiful car. Thank you for the photo. A couple of tips about oil leaks: they can come from anywhere, but, if you have a wet oil pan and no oil on the driveway, it's a pressure leak that only happens when the engine is running; if you have drops on the floor, it's probably loose oil pan bolts. With a 1/4" drive snap-over torque wrench, you can re-torque your oil pan bolts yourself. locate all 13 oil pan bolts so you don't miss one. Tighten all of them to 8 N·m (71 lb-in or 5.9 lb-ft if your wrench doesn't have metric markings). If they don't tighten, that's OK, don't loosen them. Then, tighten them to 12 N·m (106 lb-in or 8.8 lb-ft). Again, if some or all don't turn, that's OK. This probably isn't your leak because it's a pressure leak, but it's an example of how a small leak can be hard to find but very inexpensive. A common seepage leak that most people can't find is from the oil sending unit. Sometimes it gets whanged by someone changing the oil filter. You can't always tell by looking, and the guy that did it probably didn't know. It's a $7.50 part at Rock Auto (online), AC/Delco part number D1836A. I fixed a sudden seeping leak in my 1997 ETC by handing a new oil pressure switch to my mechanic when I had an oil change. Watch the price when you buy anything. The D1836A is $7.47 at Rock Auto, but offered by two vendors on Amazon for $10.45 (with shipping, which may be competitive with Rock Auto after shipping) and... $42+$4.50 shipping!!!
×
×
  • Create New...