buying another cadillac...

[98deville]

My brother is looking to buy a cadillac. He found 2 that he was interested in he saw this 96 seville with 90k for $5,500 OBO and a 94 seville for the same price with 95k...Do they look like a good deal. and what are some things to look at when buying a cadillac?

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[PAUL T]

Check for oil leaks, the diagnostic codes, and see if there are any maintenance records. I would go for the 96 due to the engine updates. I think they started using Dexcool in 96 also meaning the coolant would not have to be change as often. Make sure the oil is not milky too. That is what I would check.

[mikeal1892]

I agree .. I would also opt for the 1996 due to the updates and all. Things tend to improve with time.

Michael

[BodybyFisher]

I would not buy it until I did the following (not necessarily in this order):

1) check for codes

2) drive it on a highway at 70 with a few WOTs while watching the coolant temp and feeling for shimmy and vibration. Does the car hop on bumps, does the rear hop or mis-track? Rear knuckles can cause skidishness. Let go of the steering wheel, does it pull? Do a 65 mph easy S-turn within the lane listening for a growl/hum to come and to, indicating hub bearing problem.

3a) Try to find rises and drops in the road to see if your struts are good, bottoming out is a sign the struts are bad.

3b) during that drive, I would want to find a long incline (impossible

where I live).

3c) Hit the brakes hard doing that ride, and feel for pulsing brakes and pull...

3d) if the check engine comes on during the ride, check the codes again

4) look into the coolant tank for sludge and color of coolant

5) ask for service records, ask when the coolant was changed last, ask if green coolant was ever used, you can buy a combustion gas detector at Napa to check the head gaskets for about $50 to be safe.

6) check the trunk spare tire area for wetness

7) look at the oil and tranny pan for leaking

8) check the oil and tranny fluid (smell the tranny fluid).

9) look at the tires for uneven wear

10) check all assessories and controls, windows, seats, radio

11) how does it start, how old is the battery, any whining?

12) after the ride, lift the hood and smell for oil, tranny fluid or coolant.

13) hit the brakes and feel for shutter or vibration indicating 'warped' rotors

Any codes or deficiencies can help you to negotiate the price.. Good Luck

[gygmy]

In 94 you could get the Northstar engine or the older, yet proven engine. Your choice depending on what its got. Both good motors. Different capabilities and personalities for driving for sure. Both of them are great and pleasing to drive. Unless the car has been abused or neglected it is hard to go wrong buying a Caddilac.

[mikeal1892]

I would not buy it until I did the following (not necessarily in this order):

1) check for codes

2) drive it on a highway at 70 with a few WOTs while watching the coolant temp and feeling for shimmy and vibration. Does the car hop on bumps, does the rear hop or mis-track? Rear knuckles can cause skidishness. Let go of the steering wheel, does it pull? Do a 65 mph easy S-turn within the lane listening for a growl/hum to come and to, indicating hub bearing problem.

3a) Try to find rises and drops in the road to see if your struts are good, bottoming out is a sign the struts are bad.

3b) during that drive, I would want to find a long incline (impossible

where I live).

3c) Hit the brakes hard doing that ride, and feel for pulsing brakes and pull...

3d) if the check engine comes on during the ride, check the codes again

4) look into the coolant tank for sludge and color of coolant

5) ask for service records, ask when the coolant was changed last, ask if green coolant was ever used, you can buy a combustion gas detector at Napa to check the head gaskets for about $50 to be safe.

6) check the trunk spare tire area for wetness

7) look at the oil and tranny pan for leaking

8) check the oil and tranny fluid (smell the tranny fluid).

9) look at the tires for uneven wear

10) check all assessories and controls, windows, seats, radio

11) how does it start, how old is the battery, any whining?

12) after the ride, lift the hood and smell for oil, tranny fluid or coolant.

13) hit the brakes and feel for shutter or vibration indicating 'warped' rotors

Any codes or deficiencies can help you to negotiate the price.. Good Luck

where have you been when I have bought all the cars that I have !

[BodybyFisher]

[adallak]

I would not buy it until I did the following (not necessarily in this order):

1) check for codes

2) drive it on a highway at 70 with a few WOTs while watching the coolant temp and feeling for shimmy and vibration. Does the car hop on bumps, does the rear hop or mis-track? Rear knuckles can cause skidishness. Let go of the steering wheel, does it pull? Do a 65 mph easy S-turn within the lane listening for a growl/hum to come and to, indicating hub bearing problem.

3a) Try to find rises and drops in the road to see if your struts are good, bottoming out is a sign the struts are bad.

3b) during that drive, I would want to find a long incline (impossible

where I live).

3c) Hit the brakes hard doing that ride, and feel for pulsing brakes and pull...

3d) if the check engine comes on during the ride, check the codes again

4) look into the coolant tank for sludge and color of coolant

5) ask for service records, ask when the coolant was changed last, ask if green coolant was ever used, you can buy a combustion gas detector at Napa to check the head gaskets for about $50 to be safe.

6) check the trunk spare tire area for wetness

7) look at the oil and tranny pan for leaking

8) check the oil and tranny fluid (smell the tranny fluid).

9) look at the tires for uneven wear

10) check all assessories and controls, windows, seats, radio

11) how does it start, how old is the battery, any whining?

12) after the ride, lift the hood and smell for oil, tranny fluid or coolant.

13) hit the brakes and feel for shutter or vibration indicating 'warped' rotors

Any codes or deficiencies can help you to negotiate the price.. Good Luck

where have you been when I have bought all the cars that I have !

You would be still looking...

[BodybyFisher]

Actually, I needed to sit and think about what I do inherently when I drive a car that is foreign to me. I am continually assessing a cars mechanical condition, its a skill/habit that comes from my parents who drove for a living. My dad and mom would say, do you hear that, or do you feel that? They were tuned to their cars as I am. It was difficult to verbalize my diagnosis procedure above, because for me it is a natural natural thing to do. You have to remember that for people who drove a lot for a living, wheel bearings beginning to go on the old Cadillacs would cause a rolling noise long before they were really bad. It was a normal maintenance procedure to re-pack ball bearings in those days and it was shocking to see how bad they could get. You didnt want to overlook wheel bearings. The day they stopped using ball bearings went to roller bearings things got a lot better but they still got packed with grease. Listening to your car is an important part of diagnosis.

I get into my friends cars and say things like, you need a hub bearing, hear it, and most people will say, HERE WHAT? Or when I back up with them, I feel a loose universal, engine mount or bad axle, and I bring it to their attention. I am always right about it. It never surprises me when a person comes back and says how do you know that, how did you hear that? I am always on guard and listening to mechanicals in the car, and I can thank my parents for that..

[mikeal1892]

I'm always listening to my car. lol Someimtes it talks ? Ehhh

Michael

[chazglenn3]

The car that is advertised as a 1996 STS isn't. The interior was changed in '96...that interior (and those wheels) were from earlier years.

Charles