ken's caddy Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 This is for a 1997 Seville STS, but I'm sure that they are all just about the same on other models. My question is the "Slide" bolts the attach the caliber to the caliber brackets do NOT slide as freely in the bracket as they should. It looks like there is a bushing inside the rubber boot area that is not working that good. I tried all type of stuff to make these work easier so that the caliber would be able to adjust. The front brakes are getting real hot (Just replace them) and I think the problem is with these bolts. Can I get just the mounting bracket for these calibers, or do they only come with the calibers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Ken, The bolts and bushings do not slide as they are fixed to the caliper mount when the bolts are tight. The "slide" action is between the steel bushings and the rubber bushings that are mounted in the caliper. You need to push the steel bushings out of the rubber ones, clean both of them completely. Get some silicone brake grease from an auto parts store and lubricate the inside of the rubber bushings, Be sure to fill all the grooves inside the rubber bushing. Smear a light coating of the grease onto the outside of the steel bushings and then push them back into the rubber bushings. After reinstallation, they should slide back and forth with moderate thumb pressure. While cleaning the rubber bushings, make sure that you get all the old grease and dirt out of the grooves inside. This should allow the calipers to "float" as they were designed to do. Failure to clean and lubricate these bushings will cause rapid and uneven brake wear and excessive heating. Britt I should have added that you can change the rubber bushings & install new ones, but they will still need the special brake lubricant. Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 This is for a 1997 Seville STS, but I'm sure that they are all just about the same on other models. My question is the "Slide" bolts the attach the caliber to the caliber brackets do NOT slide as freely in the bracket as they should. It looks like there is a bushing inside the rubber boot area that is not working that good. I tried all type of stuff to make these work easier so that the caliber would be able to adjust. The front brakes are getting real hot (Just replace them) and I think the problem is with these bolts. Can I get just the mounting bracket for these calibers, or do they only come with the calibers? It is a good idea to replace the bushings inside the braket and the boots from time to time. If th epins(caliper bolts) look good just lubricate it with proper lubricant and you are all set. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Easy enough to clean up the pins with a wire brush. I like to double check the "float" by bolting everthing together to full torque without the rotor. And then you can be sure the caliper can be moved easily. Almost doubles the time, I know. But for me, the peace of mind is worth it. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Easy enough to clean up the pins with a wire brush. I like to double check the "float" by bolting everthing together to full torque without the rotor. And then you can be sure the caliper can be moved easily. Almost doubles the time, I know. But for me, the peace of mind is worth it. This is a clever approach (no rotors)! I'll try it next time I inspect the brakes. Mine do not flot freely no matter how well the bushings and bolts are lubricated (even new ones). The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 The main problem that I have found is that the caliper RUSTS in the area of the rubber bushings. The rubber bushings are installed in "holes" in the caliper. These holes rust and rust swells, compressing the rubber bushing and making the hole smaller. You can clean/lubricate the steel bushings and the rubber bushings, however the steel bushing will still slide with a high degree of resistance. If you remove the rubber bushing from the caliper, you can use a large, very course round file to remove the rust. When reinstalling the rubber bushings, use lots of high temp slider grease in the caliper hole before installing the rubber bushings. This will help prevent the rust from returning. After cleaning the rust and lubricating everything, you can now install the steel bushings with little to no resistance. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 The main problem that I have found is that the caliper RUSTS in the area of the rubber bushings. The rubber bushings are installed in "holes" in the caliper. These holes rust and rust swells, compressing the rubber bushing and making the hole smaller. You can clean/lubricate the steel bushings and the rubber bushings, however the steel bushing will still slide with a high degree of resistance. If you remove the rubber bushing from the caliper, you can use a large, very course round file to remove the rust. When reinstalling the rubber bushings, use lots of high temp slider grease in the caliper hole before installing the rubber bushings. This will help prevent the rust from returning. After cleaning the rust and lubricating everything, you can now install the steel bushings with little to no resistance. Barry Thanks Barry94! Frankly, I never noticed rust inside the holes... perhaps I should have payed more attention, it makes sense. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Adallak the slider mechanism that Barry is talking about is a different design than what is on your 91. I used to use a paperclip with a hook on it to pull out the rubber bushing on my 91, AC Delco brakes come with a new bushing kit (at least they did when I had my car).. Mike He is talking about this kind of caliper, #3 are the bushings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprucegoose Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Yes, like Barry said, the commonly overlooked prob on older brakes (of this style) is the removal of rust from the bore before pushing the new rubber bushings in. I use a small wire brush (about the size of a toothbrush) and it works great. Don't forget to clean of and lubricate the small flat mating surfaces on the outside ends of the caliper and mounting bracket that rub together as well... Check out his post where I have a few pics of the calipers, rotors, and some tools I use. I posted this on this site somewhere too, but couldn't find it right now... http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21338 As you can see from my remaining bushing that came out in pieces, it was long overdue. Yes, you can buy the pins & bushings separately, or together complete as a hardware kit... '09 Cadillac CTS-4 3.6 direct injection, 128 K mi. '15 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, 5.3i V8, 125 K mi '70 Firebird Formula 400, Bored+.04, RAIII heads, M21 4spd., in-process restoration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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