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AC Leak 1997 Deville


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Hi all.

Put a condensor in my 97 Deville, the old one was pretty mangled.

Then had to put line seals at the compressor. (they were missing)

Vacuumed and leak tested. Passed.

Charged system with 2 lbs freon. last thursday.

Blew ice cold. worked nicely.

But today (just over a week later) All that was left was .25 lb. So I lost 1.75 lbs over the period of a week, which means no ac again.

I charged it again tonight and added a little extra pag oil. Want to see if any evidence shows anywhere.

I am thinking it may be the compressor. Any other ideas?

Taking a trip in a few weeks and would like to have working AC for it

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Bruce

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The leak could be anywhere, even god forbid the evaporator. As Bruce noted adding dye will help you find with with a black light as the dye will glow, if its leaking at the evaporator the water it drops will glow.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I've always had good luck with the electronic leak detectors, no mess and they have always been accurate for me. They are able to detect a leak as small as 1lb a month.

Also, easy with the PAG oil, it doesn't take much. Be very careful with the dye they are PAG oil based and you will be adding more oil that you may not need

How are you evacuating and charging it? How did you perform the leak test?

30 for 30 is the "test", 30 HG ( as close as you can get it ) for 30 minutes NO leak down.

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I am using a AC servicing machine.

It passed the test. Held at negative for probably an hour or so before I charged it.

I am very careful with the pag oil as it is much easier to put in than it is to take out.

I have a electronic detector. I may have to try it.

Thank you

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Cool, not many people have a R-134 machine to use.

You will probably be good with the oil and dye if you're using the machine. Wish I had one :blush:

For it to have leaked out that fast I would double check all the condenser connections for tightness. I have had new compressor seals be the wrong thickness but that is pretty rare.

Since the compressor seals were missing I assume this is a project car. How is the suction and discharge hose connections? Are they nice and tight at the accumulator and compressor? I am talking about where the metal pipe and hose join. I would also check the low pressure switch, I've seen a ton of those leak through. It is not all that uncommon for the compressor rear case seal to leak either.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I just changed a low pressure switch that leaked through

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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