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Potential Purchase


tpeltier

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Hello, I'm considering purchasing a used 2004 Cadillac Deville (Tomorrow). I've previously owned a 1999 Cadillac Deville and loved it, I sold it thinking that the head gaskets were going to go, and the car is still running.

(Ironically the person that ended up with the car now lives right across the street from me, and I believe it could have something to do with me wanting another, newer one.)

The Car is a 2004 Cadillac Deville with 94,235 Miles on it. It appears to be extremely clean and well taken care of. Is there anything you would suggest me to consider before my purchase? I'll be traveling around 300 miles to purchase this vehicle. I've seen the head gasket tests and such, I'm just wondering if there is anything I could do to secure my purchase. The car is only 4,999$ which isn't a TON of money for a used car, but at the same time, it's some. My hopes would be to get 30k out of it and probably sell it for something newer.

http://www.specialwayauto.com/2004_Cadillac_DeVille_Hamtramck_MI_262120192.veh#

Thanks.

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Check codes, do head gasket test, check suspension by driving over varied conditions including curb cuts. Listen for bump induced noise indicating bad stabilizer links and whether your nose/front end hits the ground going up curb cuts indicating bad struts. The first time you go up a curb cut be careful as you don't know the car nor do you know how it will react. Observe the front tire wear do they have inside wear on either one or both tires? That could be an indication of bad ball joints or it needing an alignment. What is the condition of the tires? A new set is probably $500 or more. Look at the age of the battery. Smell tranny fluid for a burning smell. Check for coolant, oil and tranny leaks and that accessories work including ac, windows, radio, speakers, trunk release, auto parking brake release, wipers, seats, trunk pulldown, get it up to highway speeds and listen for hub bearing noise coming from each wheel it will sound like a moan and may vary in severity when you do s turns, (be careful doing s turns in a car you do not know, watch for surrounding cars and only do them on dry pavement, be sure the tires are good and properly inflated you've been warned), and see if maintenance records are available. Since this is a dealer you might not be able to get the comfort level you need to get to, its a beautiful car, what is its history, was this a wreck or water damaged?, as Jim recommends get a carfax.

When you are on the highway, do 55, if there is a tach watch it as you tap on the brake with your left foot while keeping constant pressure on the accelerator, the RPM should rise about 200 rpm and then decrease when you release the brake as the torque convertor clutch (TCC) re-engages.

The coolant test if you have never done one is fairly easy. The coolant level has to be about 2 inches from the top so it does not get sucked into the tester. You can get the tester at NAPA its made by BalKamp. You can always have it shipped to you from them if you don't have a NAPA or can not find it locally.

Here it is
http://www.napaonline.com/p/BK_7001006
Stop back once you see the car and we can help with codes if you need help.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Get a CarFAX.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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It was love at first sight. I actually bought the car before I was able to read replies.

I think it needs a ball-joint, and a fuel level sensor. Got it for 4,500$. Just drove it 400 miles, minor vibration at 77mph (highway speeds) but ultimately a great ride.

Thanks for the advice.

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Nice car!

Check your tie rod ends - I had one go bad at 60,000 and change on my '05 Deville. There was a vibration that would come and go so I checked it out and the "lubed for life" tie rod end was shot. I'd much prefer to have the type that need to be greased - they never go bad as long as they are kept full of grease.

It might also just need to have the tires road force balanced.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Congratulations it is a beautiful car

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Nice car!

Check your tie rod ends - I had one go bad at 60,000 and change on my '05 Deville. There was a vibration that would come and go so I checked it out and the "lubed for life" tie rod end was shot. I'd much prefer to have the type that need to be greased - they never go bad as long as they are kept full of grease.

It might also just need to have the tires road force balanced.

I'm used to pickup trucks, in the Cadillac when the tie rods go bad does the steering wheel shake or wobble? or do you just feel it as a "vibration". This car goes straight down the road when you let go of the steering wheel, but I def. feel some vibration specifically coming from the driver side front at about 70+mph. Thanks in advance.

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It's been a few years but it seems that I felt the vibration from the front and in the steering wheel. It would come and go. Once I jacked up the front end and started rocking the front tires, it was obvious the tie rod end was shot.

These cars are very sensitive to tire balance - many times, it takes a road force balance to keep them vibration free - if your car is vibrating at 70, does it go away at 75 or 80? If so, it is likely a tire with excessive road force.

At any rate, if it were my car, I'd raise the front and rock the tires back and forth while watching the tie rod ends and ball joints - just to rule them out.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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It's been a few years but it seems that I felt the vibration from the front and in the steering wheel. It would come and go. Once I jacked up the front end and started rocking the front tires, it was obvious the tie rod end was shot.

These cars are very sensitive to tire balance - many times, it takes a road force balance to keep them vibration free - if your car is vibrating at 70, does it go away at 75 or 80? If so, it is likely a tire with excessive road force.

At any rate, if it were my car, I'd raise the front and rock the tires back and forth while watching the tie rod ends and ball joints - just to rule them out.

thx again. it turned out that a couple of the rims were bent...that was causing my vibration, tie rods are good! appreciate the input

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