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Can I borrow your TimeSert Kit?


BodybyFisher

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I am about to timesert a 98 Northstar. I have the engine out and I figure why not?

I once lent a used ONCE timesert kit to someone on this board and he stiffed me and never returned it. I have the private message stream to prove it. Lesson learned.

I will gladly send you my child or wife, preferably wife as collateral and figure that I will have it about a month start to finish. :-)

I will order my own inserts and bolts.

I have been known on this board for 15 years and my word is good it will be returned. I am in a rush before the weather gets too cold,

Thank you, Mike, BodybyFisher, formerly Scotty.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Mike I put northstar performance studs in mine. I would gladly lend you that set up if you decide to go that route. Only payment I would want would be your return to active on this board :blush:

Hi Mike, thank you for the offer. I don't know much about the set up. Does the Northstar Performance Stud have its own installation tool setup?, it does not use the timesert installation jig/drill kit?

Bruce told me about Tim Carroll CNC stud kit, here > http://www.carrollcustomcadillac.com/Pages/default.aspx and they use the standard timesert installation kit.

I have spoken to the Venerable Kevin KHE and he frowns about me using studs and his opinion means a lot to me and I am hesitant to use studs because of him. Have you studded a block? Is there an argument I can review contrasting studs vs bolts?

Thank you Mike...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I studded mine. Its a drill bit and jig for centering the holes, and a tap. Of course you would need to buy the studs (probably from Jake to make sure they are the same thread.)

If it is the same jig, I wouldn't know, sorry. Tim Carroll, has a you tube video that you may want to review, concerning the studs. I would have to do a search for it, likely just under his name and studs. I can say for sure you wont putting the rear head on or off with studs, that you may do with bolts. Opinions are on both sides. My reasoning was that if its good for ultra high performance clamping, should be good here too.

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My thought on this is, with studs, a nut is used and torqued, and its a straight PULL on the threads, straight up.

With bolts, the bolts are twisted till the proper torque is arrived at, with the bolt threads grinding and galling the block threads as they are twisted to the prescribed torque.

I am interested in researching this, dragsters have used this method for years, why I wonder? There are other things that I want to research, such as torque angle vs using a straight old fashion torque when studs are used.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Racers use studs because they have the heads on and off several times in the course of the engine's lifetime. You won't ever have it off again in all likelihood. The clamping force is the same with bolts or studs. One of the stud distributors (Jake?) mandates that green coolant be used and he has just a regular torque spec. vs. the torque-angle spec. which is re-engineering the joint and that makes me nervous. The guru used to say when you depart from the factory procedures YOU are now doing the validation/testing.

By the way, welcome back!

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thank you Kevin, and thank you for all of you consulting and expertise over the last couple of years, I don't know what I would have done without you.

I guess on a dragster time is saved just dropping the head gasket and head into place between runs?

I need to make this decision quickly. I briefly spoke to Tim Carroll and will probably call him soon.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Tim had sent me a note that he is off on vacation and shop closed til Oct. Their website appears to say David Manning purchased the biz, so perhaps he retired again? http://www.carrollcustomcadillac.com

I think they are in new digs since my visit http://caddyinfo.com/wordpress/carroll-custom-cadillac-pilot-point-texas/ but interesting stuff all around. 331s and 4.6L's getting tuned side by side, heavy line through paint all in one.

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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Thanks Bruce

I need to do this in the least expensive way possible. If I can not borrow a timesert kit I may take AirMikes offer for the installation kit and buy Jakes studs. There are a bunch of other things I must purchase such as engine mounts, oil cooler lines, gasket kits, etc. The engine cost me $1,000 and I wasted $350 on the head rebuilt and $50 on a junk yard head to replace it.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mike, when I bought my stuff from Jake, quick is NOT the key word in that transaction. If you decide to go that way, definitely contact him and be sure they are available and ready to ship. I waited a long time. He was very nice about the whole deal and sent some things to make up for the months of waiting, but it was months. I haven't bought the timeserts, but I believe it to be cheaper. My personal rational for the studs comes down to this. If the bolts are a problem from the factory ( I realize there is ongoing debate on cause of gasket failure), but IF the threads in the block are the/a cause I chose to remove that from the equation. I was not necessarily interested in cheap or convenient, I was interested in driving this car for 200,000 more miles without repeat failure. I know some timeserts have failed, likely from improper install, but I would have been a first timer, and studs just seem the more fail safe option. Barcyz (may be spelled wrong) is doing these engines and stated that he has his own way of doing them that is not the typical/accepted correct way to sert them. I asked one time about the difference, however I think it is sort of a trade secret he didn't want to share. Perhaps he would be willing to give you some off the forum advice? I in no way am attempting to debate or discredit KHE, I am sure he knows more than I. In fact I consider all the advise he gives top notch. The factory has to save money when possible and at the same time engineer things for warranty, and make them repairable. I had none of those considerations, only longevity. I don't believe in building a house with 2x12 studs, but if that is what I did in this case (so to speak) I am ok with that this time.

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Oh yes, I remember the long delivery times with Jake, I spoke to him a few times. I may just go with the timesert fix, but I need to borrow a timesert installation kit with drill and jig, I really don't want too buy that, I would rather put that into parts I run into. Such as the radiator that looks like someone tap danced on it all the fins are damaged, mechanics can be brutal and careless, it amazes me, but as we know time is money

AirMike, thanks for all of the info and help. You need that connector brace, give me a yell...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If you can't find a used Timesert kit, you could always buy one, use it for your repair and then sell it. You should be able to recover most of your money.

I tried to send you a PM but it said you couldn't accept messages,

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thanks Kevin, Ill check my mailbox it might be full.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If you can't find a used Timesert kit, you could always buy one, use it for your repair and then sell it. You should be able to recover most of your money.

I was attempting to borrow a kit first to limit my expenses. I figured someone had a kit sitting on a shelf that they used once.

They are all over ebay and the kits retain their cost, who knows how quickly they sell.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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