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Codes, codes magical codes! Anyone able to give some input?


Seanmannino

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Hey guys and gals! I am working on my Cadillac Deville, and have this code B2711 I know it's for the key pellet issue. I've replaced the key and still have the issue with the code. My local dealer wont tell me anything other than bring it in so they can fix it. I don't want to go that route, I want to fix it myself. Does anyone have any information on how to fix this without going the route of bypassing the system? I know that would be easier but I want it to be fixed and not have to worry about anything later on with the car and it not being able to start because of a blown circuit or anything like that. Also, I have a B0533 and a B2477 I know the fuel pump was replaced by a mechanic shortly after I bought it and I don't have any information on it other than it was replaced... Is there an easy fix for that? The B2477 refers to a short in the reverse relay, but I do not have to press the brake pedal to take the car out of park and I have been told that is the Neutral safety switch, does that make sense? If it is that switch where is it located?

Thank you all!

Sean M.

1997 Cadillac DeVille

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The B2711 happens when the connection to the key pellet is scratchy. You might be able to get rid of most occurrences by making sure that the keyring is as small and light as possible, as the swinging keyring moving the key around will cause this code if the contacts are scratchy. A hard fix would be to take apart the ignition and clean the contacts and/or bend them so that they make better contact with the key. A dealer solution will be a new ignition switch and key, and re-keying the doors to match the new key is extra.

The PRNDL switch is in the console shifter mechanism.

The B0533 could be a wiring harness or connector problem. Hopefully this will be outside the gas tank.

The B2477 could be a wiring harness issue (did it pop up when the fuel pump was replaced - the wires are near each other) or it could be the relay itself. The relays are very inexpensive and are available from Rock Auto and other parts sources. Get it locally if you can because shipping will double the price of something that small and inexpensive.

Sounds like you need a digital DVM certified for static-sensitive work and some patience.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Grrrrrrrr....... Get one thing fixed and another decides to rear it's ugly head. So, I was sitting in traffic and the oil light came on. I pull over and check it, the oil is full. What can be causing this??? Could this be an oil pressure switch going bad?

Jim thanks for the input on the other small issues! I will look into those as time permits now that I have this other issue going.

Sean M.

1997 Cadillac DeVille

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Maybe should be a new topic. I assume you see the oil pressure light flicker, and maybe the "stop engine" message?

If so, first thing would be to change the sensor up front near the filter. When i took the electrical connector off my sensor, it was fill of oil. Second thing i did was to add a bottle of motor honey into the crankcase. I have not seen the oil message in over a year - even when i run it hard, and the temp runs up to 210. Seems to be a common issue on the older N*

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So it did flicker yesterday but as I pulled in the driveway it came on and stayed on. No stop engine message though. I will locate the sensor and pull the plug on it to see if it's just filled with oil or whatnot before I replace it though. I also have a quart of Modern Marvel in, so will there be any harm in adding the motor honey? Or should I replace the oil and add the Motor honey? She's got 51% oil life left but if I have to I can change it... I know this is probably not a good idea, but can I drive the car still with that light on?

Sean M.

1997 Cadillac DeVille

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My '96 had the issue for a few years. If the oil pressure light stayed on steady for ~4 seconds, the fast chime would kck in, and "stop engine" would come on the screen. in the beginning, all i had to do was increase speed, and it would go off. Over time, It only got worse - after heavy driving, i would stop at a light, and if my temp would be over ~210, it would go on, and i couldnt get it to go off in that case.

When i took the sensor connector off, i cleaned the oil out with some compressd air, then sprayed both the connector, and sensor in wd-40. I thought cleaning worked for a bit, but its tough to say. The flicker was a little random.

For the sake of my nerves, i Finally changed the switch, and it was coming on less frequently, then After adding honey, i never saw it again.

I know there is a rule of oil vs. additatives. The motor honey is a small bottle. With 8.5 quarts even if you had 1 quart of mmo, i would still think you'd be ok. Yes, i would try the honey first.

My car never made a noise that it was starving for oil. Each case can be different. If its just reporting low oil randomly & momentary, but you have no strange noise or feel from the engine, you are probably ok too. After all, its not like it is always on - driving in that condition would be asking for trouble.

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I had the oil light flicker on a 96 Eldo I had. It did that with fram oil filters, switched back to ac delco and light didnt come back.

As for the passlock try the above, if it doesnt work just get the resistance from the key and bypass the passlock or pats system

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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The oil sensor is in a position where it can be banged by the oil filter wrench. If the insulator is whanged hard enough, it will deform the switch. It may seep oil and/or change its calibration. It's an inexpensive part and a simple DIY job to change. I had a filling station change mine while changing the oil on my 1997 ETC once. Note that this was not just a grease monkey but an ASE certified auto technician.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sounds like an easy thing to replace... I have the sensor in hand just not the time to do it since I am working two jobs now... I even went the length of trying to replace the Caddy on Monday and decided to keep her instead and make the repairs I need to make as the car is a nice a ride and still gets me where I need to go. I will take it to my mechanic when I have the time to do it. Not getting the flicker anymore and I am driving it more and further everyday... Crazy I know! Thank you all for your help on these issues!

Sean M.

1997 Cadillac DeVille

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