Ohio Jim Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Hello again everyone, Well I thought I would spend my time under the Deville this weekend with the trans gasket work, however, when I left work last night the right front wheel bearing on the STS was so loud I could not believe it! Normally they come on gradually. Not this time! I will be doing this Sunday, so I want to get all the parts and tools Saturday. Questions: What size socket will I need to remove the axle nut? What is the torque spec on the same nut? Do I need any kind of puller to get it off the axle? Any word of wisdom for me? I no longer have the shop manuals for the Deville, so any help would be appreciated. I have the shop manuals form '01. Would the numbers be the same? Thanks in advance! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 In the front the wheel bearings are part of the front hub. It's possible to get bearings that will work and press out the old and press in the new like in the old days but Rock Auto sells Timken hubs for $91 each, so by the time you repair a hub you will not be that much less than a new one that you can have on the car without waiting on a machine shop. Then, there is the wheel speed sensor, which comes new with the hub, and you must figure out how to make work with the new bearing if you rebuild your old hub. Also, finding the bearing is your problem because there is no separate part number and no specs. Rock Auto offers some cheaper ones too, if you are so inclined. The Timken is OEM quaity. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 No way you can replace the bearings in a front hub. You just replace the complete hub unit ABS sensor and all. What is different...compared to some GM front drivers...is the bolts go in thru the rear. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.logandieselusa.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 I replaced my front hub on my 2006 DTS several months ago... Here are a few pics ... just in case they may help you... . . Before taking anything apart... . . Brake caliper removed... . . . . Old hub removed... . . . . 2 pis of new hub... front and back... . . . . . . Don't forget to plug in the wheel speed sensor... . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Thank you for the info. Do you know the torque spec on the axle nut? Will I need a puller to get it off the axle? Thanks gentlemen! Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Thank you for the info. Do you know the torque spec on the axle nut? Will I need a puller to get it off the axle? Thanks gentlemen! Ohio Jim I don't know the torque spec for YOUR car... on mine I think it was 110 ft lbs... I did not need a puller... after I removed the axle nut, I tapped on the back of it a couple of times with a small hammer and it came off the axle. If you do have to tap on it... be sure to hold the axle so that you do not pull it out of the transmission when you tap the back of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 There was a platform change in 1998 for the Seville but I will give you what I have from the 1997 FSM. Differences, if any, will be small. The front suspension section begins with a warning that the front knuckle (the large part that mounts the hub, stabilizer bar, strut, etc.) is a machined aluminum casting and not to use a hammer to break loose parts from it. This pretty much demands that you use a puller. The warning continues to note that steel parts are mounted to the aluminum knucke but that they "have special coatings to prevent corrosion." Watch for that and make sure that any coatings are preserved when you put things back together. If necessary, get a can of replacement anti-corrosion coating from the dealer or a parts house. Instructions for removing the hub and bearing assembly begin on page 3C-7. It says to use a drift punch on the rotor and remove the hub nut, and shows Figure 12 with the drift punch inserted into one of the vent holes in the edge of the brake rotor to hold it while the "6 point deep well socket" on a breaker bar is used to loosen the hub nut. They call out a J 28733- Front Hub Spindle Remover, which looks like a puller with holes positioned to match the lug nuts. I would bet you can rent one of those at a large parts house or machine shop. Figure 13 shows the puller being used to pull the hub off the splines. The lugs are protruding through the holes in the puller to stabilize it but there are no lug nuts necessary. One wrench holds the puller to keep it and the hub from turning on the bearing and the other turns the forcing screw on the puller to push in the half-shaft tip out of the splines. The torques are given in the instructions and in a summary exploded diagram, Figure 14, on page 3C-8. The torque on the bolts that hold the brake shield and hub to the knuckle torque to 70 lb-ft. The hub nut torques to 110 lb-ft. If any of this needs tweaking for the 1999 STS, please step in. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 There was a platform change in 1998 for the Seville but I will give you what I have from the 1997 FSM. Differences, if any, will be small. The front suspension section begins with a warning that the front knuckle (the large part that mounts the hub, stabilizer bar, strut, etc.) is a machined aluminum casting and not to use a hammer to break loose parts from it. This pretty much demands that you use a puller. The warning continues to note that steel parts are mounted to the aluminum knucke but that they "have special coatings to prevent corrosion." Watch for that and make sure that any coatings are preserved when you put things back together. If necessary, get a can of replacement anti-corrosion coating from the dealer or a parts house. Instructions for removing the hub and bearing assembly begin on page 3C-7. It says to use a drift punch on the rotor and remove the hub nut, and shows Figure 12 with the drift punch inserted into one of the vent holes in the edge of the brake rotor to hold it while the "6 point deep well socket" on a breaker bar is used to loosen the hub nut. They call out a J 28733- Front Hub Spindle Remover, which looks like a puller with holes positioned to match the lug nuts. I would bet you can rent one of those at a large parts house or machine shop. Figure 13 shows the puller being used to pull the hub off the splines. The lugs are protruding through the holes in the puller to stabilize it but there are no lug nuts necessary. One wrench holds the puller to keep it and the hub from turning on the bearing and the other turns the forcing screw on the puller to push in the half-shaft tip out of the splines. The torques are given in the instructions and in a summary exploded diagram, Figure 14, on page 3C-8. The torque on the bolts that hold the brake shield and hub to the knuckle torque to 70 lb-ft. The hub nut torques to 110 lb-ft. If any of this needs tweaking for the 1999 STS, please step in. Of course his may be a lot different than mine was... and he may need all of the tools you mentioned.... but when I removed the three bolts that hold the hub, it was not stuck to the knuckle at all. I elected to use a hammer to gently tap on the ears of the old hub while holding the axle behind knuckle... to prevent it from coming out of the transmission... and the hub slid right off of the splines. I didn't really TIME IT, but the whole hub replacement only took a couple of hours from start to finish and I was being really careful and double checking everything I was doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Here is a summary of info from FSM: Document ID# 3806711999 Cadillac Seville 1 Raise the vehicle and support by the frame allowing the control arms to hang free. 2 Remove the wheel and tire. 3 Insert a drift punch or screwdriver into the caliper and rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. 4 Remove the wheel drive shaft nut. 5 Remove the caliper bolts and support caliper. 6 Remove the rotor. 7 Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor connector and unclip from the dust shield. 8 Remove the hub and bearing retaining bolts and dust shield. 9 Place the transmission in PARK. 10 Using J 28733-B separate hub and bearing from the drive axle INSTALLATION Important Clean rust and foreign material from the knuckle mounting face, bore and chamfer to allow for proper seating of the bearing and knuckle. Reverse of removal,,,,, Install the hub and bearing bolts to 130 N·m (95 lb ft). Install the caliper and caliper bolts to 51 N·m (38 lb ft). Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N·m (100 lb ft). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Jim Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Gentlemen, I cannot thank you enough for all the information. I am at work once again today, however, I will be doing the repair Sunday. I ordered the bearing, rotors. 34mm socket, and puller so I am hopefully covered. I will report back how many hours it will have taken me to complete. Enjoy Memorail Day! Sincerely, Ohio Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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