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codes: misfire, front bank


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Codes said misfire in front bank, got new coil bank for front, did not fix problem. misfires usually idle and on take off then catches and takes off smoothly. On highway, it mostly runs smooth, but will misfire a little and smooth out. I consider this a very serious problem. Has anyone had a similar experience and what did you do to fix. At first I though it was a vaccuum leak, because it would idle rough and smooth out .....on its own??? Any help is greatly appreciated!

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And the codes are: 0300, 0436, and ..........PO155??? don't know that one. I checked FPR, pulled hose while on and no fuel. Here is a tip The fuel gage is erratic! Sometimes like a wiper on slow??? Also, start and idle rough, then just smooth out on own........and sometimes surge while idle. My OBD says random cyclinder misfire and gives 0300. All injectors clicking as best I can tell. Trying to borrow a fuel pressure gage. What next my great new best buddies? Thanks! dj

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P0155 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1

P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage (This would explain your fuel gauge).

Have you cleaned the TB and checked for a ripped plenum?

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Yes, I cleaned the TB with clean white rag and it needed it! I am not sure how to check for ripped plentum other than spraying cleaner to check for leaks. The car is now surging to 2000 rpms and reminds me of a intake leak?? I just had head qaskets replaced and could they have not properly torqued the intake? So, do I replace fuel sensor(where is that) or sending unit(in the gas tank) for the 155? Is that the front 02 or rear. I replaced the after cat within a year...have new filter same time.....I also had intake gaskets replaced within a year with starter replacement. Thanks much for the help! I am thinking maybe I am headed back to place that did the head gaskets? He did not put freon back into AC ...do they undo brake lines when they drop engine? My brakes are pulling wildly, like need bleeding......

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Misfires can be caused by a vacuum leak due to bad intake manifold gaskets, injector problems etc

P0300 is a NON SPECIFIC misfire, it does not specifiy that its coming from the front, how did you determine it was coming from the front?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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friends OBD gave even number cylinders. So, my codes would not make rough idle, smooth out on own, now surge to 2000 rpm. Now when I pull out into traffic, I am afraid of being run over, then it catches, revs to 2k and I am on the brakes trying to whoa her down.....So, I do have multiple issues, O2 sensor, again is that up or down stream? I need sensor for tank......should I just do pump too while I have it apart? New filters in tank? and the big issue? I just went out sprayed cleaner on intake and got bubbles..........that is leak, eh? Thanks again for help.........any other suggestions?

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Yes, I cleaned the TB with clean white rag and it needed it! I am not sure how to check for ripped plentum other than spraying cleaner to check for leaks. The car is now surging to 2000 rpms and reminds me of a intake leak?? I just had head qaskets replaced and could they have not properly torqued the intake? So, do I replace fuel sensor(where is that) or sending unit(in the gas tank) for the 155? Is that the front 02 or rear. I replaced the after cat within a year...have new filter same time.....I also had intake gaskets replaced within a year with starter replacement. Thanks much for the help! I am thinking maybe I am headed back to place that did the head gaskets? He did not put freon back into AC ...do they undo brake lines when they drop engine? My brakes are pulling wildly, like need bleeding......

A ripped plenum would give you the two lean codes which you are not getting if you posted all of your codes

The O2 sensor is causing the engine to stay in open loop and run rich, fix it now before you need to replace the CAT. That will allow your engine to go into closed loop, THEN look at the racy idle

The ABS unit with all of the brake lines should be removed from the carriage and set aside, not opened at all. I am not sure what could cause the pulling, the brakes should not be touched at all,

It definately sounds like you are getting an intake leak, from the misfires and surging idle. It could be that the intake was not seated properly, or it could be that the injector fuel rail was not seated correctly or its orings are missing etc.

These problems started after the head gasket job?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I had a misfire issue just before the HG. The surge after. I talked to the mechanic today and he said to bring it back and he would: refill freon, bleed brakes, check for intake leak, and misfire issue. The cat is a new magna flow free flow and that 02 is a year old. I will replace it, but I wonder what made it go wrong. Man, when I cleaned that TB, she was really dirty, perhaps that? The iridium plugs are within a year also. This car recently ran absolutely perfect and all of a sudden..........grief. Thanks again for all your help. I am 65, an old vet with reminders; winters coming and the thoughts of rolling around on the cold garage floor are dancing through my mind. I gotta get this Baby going here soon!

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The problem with the O2 sensor could be that it is just disconnected or there is a problem like a melted wire to it that was not routed properly upon reassembly or a bad connector, etc.

Did he open up the brake system?, if he did, that was unnecessary

It was also unnecessary for him to depressurize the AC system

Doing those types of things only adds to the cost of the overall job and adds something else that could go wrong upon completion, all that needed to be done was for them to remove the AC compressor and the ABS unit and put them aside or tie them up as the carriage is dropped.

I think you said this mechanic was experienced, you might want to inform him of that so that he can go faster and reduce cost going forward. In addition, if he marks the postion of the strut towers he should not need to do an alignment. I spray painted each of the three nut locations at the top of the strut assembly with black paint to preserve their location.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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He did the rack and pinnion too and I assume that is where he uncoupled a brake line?? Don't know? He came recommended to me, did HG for $1,150 with guarantee, used GM gaskets and inserts? Maybe I am getting what I paid for?? So, far he is making good on things and I am hoping he will eat/barter service on this coil bank I did not need! When I do things at least I know it is done right, today it is really tough to find anyone that gives a ----!

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He did the rack and pinnion too and I assume that is where he uncoupled a brake line?? Don't know? He came recommended to me, did HG for $1,150 with guarantee, used GM gaskets and inserts? Maybe I am getting what I paid for?? So, far he is making good on things and I am hoping he will eat/barter service on this coil bank I did not need! When I do things at least I know it is done right, today it is really tough to find anyone that gives a ----!

Doing the rack and pinion steering does not involve opening the brake tubing at all, two separate systems

All I am going to say is that we have never seen such a low price, was that just labor and he added parts?

To me recommendations and guarantee's mean nothing. If one of your inserts pulled because its screwed into deterioated material, he will point to the block and say he did the job right, the block was defective..yadda yadda yadda.

I cant tell you how many recommendations turn into complete *smurf*, its all relative

I do wish you luck and hope this turns out successful, but you need to find out the reason for the misfires asap

Didnt you have problems with a knock and low oil pressure? was that resolved?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No knocks, no oil pressure issues. This was a fantastic running car until the top hose let loose, rubbed against block, and then HG. It even ran great with HG issue, I thought misfire symptom was HG. Parts and labor, tapped out block used something to secure inserts, GM gaskets, new thermostat, oil change, fiter, dex cool, $1,150, special, usually $1,400. Now I am really upset, because the car is crap and the brakes are unsafe to drive, oh, new brakes, ceramic, rotors within a year, new Arnot struts, ball joints and tierod ends, He says I need lower control arms, new starter, water pump, belt, tensioner, etc. Car had been extremely dependable. This guy had a dozen northstars in there, BMW's Jag's specializes in High End cars. Anyway, he is way across town and I have to arrange a ride back so tomorrow not today. Maybe he broke a break line? I was turned off that the car came back with greasey hand prints all over and the engine all greasy, I keep everything detailed. I think we are going to have a come to Jesus meeting! Thanks

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No knocks, no oil pressure issues. This was a fantastic running car until the top hose let loose, rubbed against block, and then HG. It even ran great with HG issue, I thought misfire symptom was HG. Parts and labor, tapped out block used something to secure inserts, GM gaskets, new thermostat, oil change, fiter, dex cool, $1,150, special, usually $1,400. Now I am really upset, because the car is crap and the brakes are unsafe to drive, oh, new brakes, ceramic, rotors within a year, new Arnot struts, ball joints and tierod ends, He says I need lower control arms, new starter, water pump, belt, tensioner, etc. Car had been extremely dependable. This guy had a dozen northstars in there, BMW's Jag's specializes in High End cars. Anyway, he is way across town and I have to arrange a ride back so tomorrow not today. Maybe he broke a break line? I was turned off that the car came back with greasey hand prints all over and the engine all greasy, I keep everything detailed. I think we are going to have a come to Jesus meeting! Thanks

Wait a second, you just scared me with this statement "I thought misfire symptom was HG"

How did you 100% confirm that you had a bad head gasket?

I have an idea, if he did not open the ABS and moved it, maybe it dropped and kinked a line or a line was kinked when it was moved....there are a bunch of brake lines attached to the unit, a kinked line could create problem like you are having. I doubt VERY much that he opened the brake system, so bleeding is not the answer

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I could purge the system and within minutes it would way over pressure and overheat. I used "Blue Devil" and sealed it and it ran cool, but I wanted it done right and took it to this guy to fix, it does run perfectly cool, but I have all this other grief. I believe I have two issues. An intake leak causing the surge to 2000 rpm causing me to put on brakes or crash and I have this rough idle issue that will smooth out and run normal..........when it is not surging to 2000 rpm, that being said, I am confused with all that is going on. I am upset in that a week ago this was a fantastic running car with fabulous gas mileage.....28 to 30 hwy...(free flow cat, irridum plugs, low rolling resistantance tires, cold air box) now it is crap!

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Hang in there, it sucks but you will work through this.

I have to post a photo of my Northstar after I had it apart, the engine shined, I would have eaten off the engine

Keep checking the codes

We will help however we can, good luck

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I tilted the carriage on my 10 year old 96 to do sensors and solenoids in the side pan of the tranny, motor mounts, heater pipes, crossover seals, dog bones, thoroughly clean throttle body, control arm bushings, ball joint, strut rod bushings and an alternator rebuild and when i got done it looked like this.

ISSandCrossoverdone002.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Codes said misfire in front bank, got new coil bank for front, did not fix problem. misfires usually idle and on take off then catches and takes off smoothly. On highway, it mostly runs smooth, but will misfire a little and smooth out. I consider this a very serious problem. Has anyone had a similar experience and what did you do to fix. At first I though it was a vaccuum leak, because it would idle rough and smooth out .....on its own??? Any help is greatly appreciated!

I had a very similar issue last month which I resolved at night because I noticed one of the sparkplug wires were arching.You can also touch all eight wires and see if one shocks you,it could be a bad wire as was in my case.

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Be careful using yourself as a test instrument, I think the coils put out 40,000 volts, that is quite a jolt, its not the shock that will hurt you, its your head that you will hurt as it slams the hood, :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Be careful using yourself as a test instrument, I think the coils put out 40,000 volts, that is quite a jolt, its not the shock that will hurt you, its your head that you will hurt as it slams the hood, :lol:

You got that right but after changing the control module and coil it turned out to be just a burnt wire

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dj8815 has a 2000. There are no plug wires.

You should be useing A/C Delco dual platinum 41-987 plugs.

Where exactly did you spray the intake and see "bubbles"? Bubbles would indicate pressure and the manifold is under vacuum so if there was a leak the fluid should be sucked in, not bubble.

To check the plenum you spray at the bottom and flex it with your finger as you spray. That said, IF it where ripped it should set lean codes P0171 & P0174 as BBF said.

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Here is where I am now. I have narrowed it down to the connector to the coil pack. When it is running rough pull the connector, no difference, plug it back and jiggle it and it catches and runs smooth. My question is there another connector upstream that I need to worry about? I just noticed a little backfire poof sound from exhaust when idle rough? This lousy little seven pin plastic connector..........cost $$$$$$95 bucks!!!!!!!!!! There is only one in town!!!!!!! Before I run off and buy this.......can anyone think of anything else this could be. Reminder, I did try a new coil pack same results. I appreciate your help. One more question if I may. Lower control arms...do I have to mess with springs on that one? Is this just an unbolt and redo issue? The ones I am looking at have the ball joints already attached....again, many thanks.......dj

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Its a bad coil pack, replace it with a known good one either from a scrap yard or purchased they have been known to crap out. BUT make sure its seated correctly on the plugs

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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