condenser replacement

[bigbaby1234]

What is the best condenser to replace the original with is it serpentine, paralle flow, or natural flow and the best aftermarket would be? thanks Gents for suggestions

[Cadillac Jim]

The one on my car is a serpentine flow, I believe, although I would have to go out and look with a flashlight to make sure that it isn't a parallel flow. There are two things I would watch out for in a replacement. First, your car and my car are both 1997 ETCs, and my 1997 FSM says that the whole A/C system takes only two pounds of Freon R-134a. Matching the volume of the tubing in the condenser is important. Second, it must fit in your car between the radiator and the power steering cooler.

The simplest way to get a good-quality replacement that works with your A/C and fits in your car is to get one from a reputable source that is guaranteed to fit in your car, and don't be afraid to take it back if it doesn't. A slightly larger volume may be workable with a little more Freon R-134a, but you will then be driving a car with a non-standard Freon fill that must be explained to the A/C worker that recovers the Freon and refills your car A/C every time you have it serviced. Recharing your car with a scale under the Freon R-134a bottle is far simpler and more precise than using gauges and thermometers.

Given that, I looked on the list at Rock Auto, and found an astonishing price range, from about $90 to $224, with some of the choices that you mention. I think that any part guaranteed to work in your car will work in your car, whether it is serpentine or parallel flow. But get the part number; it should cross over with GM part number 52469683 *and* be specified for the 1997 ETC by the manufacturer; not all of the items listed for the 1997 ETC showed the 1997 ETC on their make/model list when I clicked that button.

Others who have experienced this replacement and used aftermarket products will have more to say. I'm sure that you wanted to hear from them when you posted here. I am replying because I don't see anyone yet.

That given, there are a couple of things that can cause condenser failure. If you had a compressor failure or junk from the drier clog you old evaporator, you should look at these items anyway. They are:

• Make sure that your tar-paper radiator shield from the back of the rear bumper to the radiator mount is there, and is intact. If a fastener or two is missing, you can get more at the hardware store. Likewise, get some tar paper at the hardware or Lowe's/Home Depot store and make one if yours is missing.
• Make sure that some fool didn't throw away the radiator braces. These are bolt-on diagonal braces, one over the battery and one in a mirror-image position on the other side. Make sure that they are present and that all four bolts on each are tight. Without these, the radiator frame is subject to too much distortion on potholes and hard cornering. This can cause your radiator tanks to lose their seal with the core or crack, too. These braces will result in a noticeable improvement in your handling, too, if you replace missing ones.

I've had mechanics leave one fender brace bolt loose because it was too much trouble to start the threads with its clip-attached nut, and a battery salesman who told me to throw mine away so he could put in a top-terminal battery when he was out-of-stock with the right one, which, as you know, is side terminal. People do that kind of thing all the time, particularly with old cars. I've had a mechanic suggest that I just "drive with the light on" when I asked him to fix an EBTCM problem. I've seen oil change people rip off a tar-paper shield and throw it away because it was loose and bothering them when they were doing an oil-and-lube job. It happens all the time, and most often they don't tell you. Some owners do that too, in case you bought the car used.

[bigbaby1234]

thanks Jim as always I will go with the serpentine one and I will make sure it fits like a glove like the original one. I will go to rock auto parts and do that. Thank you again for that insight.

[joeb]

my 96 has parallel flow. my 99 grand prix has parallel flow. put in an aftermarket unit in GP and it works great. PF is stock and easy to find.

[Ranger]

I may be wrong and I'm not sure why, but I am under the impression that most are parallel flow now.

[KHE]

Condensers that are used with an R-134a system are a parallel flow design. I would not attempt to re-engineer the A/C system - just get a quality replacement. Be sure to change the o-rings at the connections and use 525 viscosity mineral oil to lube the o-rings.

You will also need to add a small amount of PAG-150 oil to the condenser prior to installation.

What was the failure mode of the condenser? Weren't you asking about an evaporator replacement on this car earlier? Just curious on the diagnosis.

[Ranger]

Condensers that are used with an R-134a system are a parallel flow design.

Any idea why Kevin? Are they more efficient?

[bigbaby1234]

yes I did ask about evaporator core but it was ruled out from the a/c shop and they came up with the condenser and compressor being the culprit. Thanks for your concern.

[KHE]

Condensers that are used with an R-134a system are a parallel flow design.

Any idea why Kevin? Are they more efficient?

Yes - they are more efficient which is needed for the use with R-134a. That's one of the reasons cars with an R-12 system that are retrofitted to R-134a don't cool as well - due to the R-12 serpentine condenser.

The bad part of the parallel flow condensers is that they cannot be flushed. The old serpentine condensers could be flushed.

[Ranger]

The bad part of the parallel flow condensers is that they cannot be flushed. The old serpentine condensers could be flushed.

Yeah, I'm aware of that and can see why.

[KHE]

yes I did ask about evaporator core but it was ruled out from the a/c shop and they came up with the condenser and compressor being the culprit. Thanks for your concern.

Do you see any oily spots on the condenser? Oily spots are an indication of a leak. Check the compressor - if the case is all oily, the compressor body seals could be leaking. The HR-6 compressor can be re-sealed for about $55.00 in parts but very few shops will want to do that - they will want to replace the entire compressor.

Seems like the A/C shop should be able to pinpoint the leak with a leak detector or by using UV dye in the system.....

[Cadillac Jim]

Any decent A/C shop will have a sniffer. Even chains like Sears Auto, Pep Boys Service, Goodyear Stores, etc. have sniffiers if they do serious A/C work. If it doesn't, move on.